Juat what is a Recoil Buffer for the 1911?

[57schwada]

My buddy gave me a pack of Swenson recoil buffers for my CDP. I have never ever seen such a thing. Good, bad, indifferent? Really need 'em?

 

[DocIndy]

Some guys swear by them... some guys don’t. I don’t use them in any of my 1911s...even the customs. I prefer good springs and my recoil buffer is a firm grip.

 

[gglass]

They do keep a 1911 from beating itself up, but the downside is that if one falls apart it can bind the gun up until it is disassembled and cleared out.

 

[rhino]

My buddy gave me a pack of Swenson recoil buffers for my CDP. I have never ever seen such a thing. Good, bad, indifferent? Really need 'em?

They're intended to absorb some of the impact when the slide reaches it's rearward most position. Whether nor not they help anything is debatable and I'm unaware of anyone who uses or advocates their use anymore.

One use for them was to minimize damage when using a recoil spring that is lighter than recommended for a given load. The purpose of doing so is to allow the slide to cycle faster and minimize muzzle rise, thus allowing quicker follow-up shots. The practice was most common in USPSA with .40S&W Para-Ordnance guns, which tended to break.

What I do know is that whether they delivered any benefit or not, they were responsible for malfunctions. When they get shredded during use, they can and have causes slides to get stuck, sometimes needing tools to get the slide and frame separated. Too many people didn't understand that they were not "install and forget," but something that required routine inspection and replacement.

They have also induced malfunctions by essentially increasing the effective length of the recoil spring and prevent the slide from cycling properly.

My opinion: negligible potential benefit; significant opportunity to compromise function; do not use.

 

[gglass]

They're intended to absorb some of the impact when the slide reaches it's rearward most position. Whether nor not they help anything is debatable and I'm unaware of anyone who uses or advocates their use anymore.

One use for them was to minimize damage when using a recoil spring that is lighter than recommended for a given load. The purpose of doing so is to allow the slide to cycle faster and minimize muzzle rise, thus allowing quicker follow-up shots. The practice was most common in USPSA with .40S&W Para-Ordnance guns, which tended to break.

What I do know is that whether they delivered any benefit or not, they were responsible for malfunctions. When they get shredded during use, they can and have causes slides to get stuck, sometimes needing tools to get the slide and frame separated. Too many people didn't understand that they were not "install and forget," but something that required routine inspection and replacement.

They have also induced malfunctions by essentially increasing the effective length of the recoil spring and prevent the slide from cycling properly.

My opinion: negligible potential benefit; significant opportunity to compromise function; do not use.

^^^ What he said ^^^

 

[Cameramonkey]

^^^ What he said ^^^

Or if you do choose to use them, treat them like the oil in your car. Change regularly so they dont ever get to a failure point.

 

[57schwada]

Thank you so much Guys!

Yeah...... Don't think I'll install them...

 

[Peacekeeper3073]

I always looked at them as a gimmick, kind of like the full size guide rod in a 1911. And as stated above if one breaks it's a mess.

 

[churchmouse]

I run these in only 1 of my guns. It is a custom 2011 set up for full house loads. Not needed if we run off the shelf loads. Load it for bear and it does beat on the frame pretty good. It pins the ears back on the guide rod stops. We have the stoutest recoil spring available in it. Putting the buffer in it stopped the problem.

And yes, I have full length guide rods in every 1911 based piece we have. Not a gimmick. JMHO.

This is the 10mm 2011 we have a buffer in.....

 

[Peacekeeper3073]

I run these in only 1 of my guns. It is a custom 2011 set up for full house loads. Not needed if we run off the shelf loads. Load it for bear and it does beat on the frame pretty good. It pins the ears back on the guide rod stops. We have the stoutest recoil spring available in it. Putting the buffer in it stopped the problem.

And yes, I have full length guide rods in every 1911 based piece we have. Not a gimmick. JMHO.

This is the 10mm 2011 we have a buffer in.....

Appreciate your opinion CM. My experience with both was bad few years ago. Had both in a Colt 1911 National Match. Buffer broke and with the full length guide rod it was a major deal to get it apart, After that no buffers and back to the factory guide rod.

 

[churchmouse]

Appreciate your opinion CM. My experience with both was bad few years ago. Had both in a Colt 1911 National Match. Buffer broke and with the full length guide rod it was a major deal to get it apart, After that no buffers and back to the factory guide rod.

I get that. Run what you are comfortable with. They run just fine with the spring and plug from the factory but "IMHO" () they run smoother with a proper guide rod.

We did a non-scientific test between the 2 set ups. We had a few factory set ups and a few with full length rods. I did not know which was what. Blind test. They were handed to me and i ran them.

I found every one of the full length set ups after a magazine. Crazy as it sounds. Just something about the way they ran.

 

[Ithaca45]

I personally don't like them. I run good quality springs in all my 1911's and that's it.

 

[Peacekeeper3073]

I get that. Run what you are comfortable with. They run just fine with the spring and plug from the factory but "IMHO" () they run smoother with a proper guide rod.

We did a non-scientific test between the 2 set ups. We had a few factory set ups and a few with full length rods. I did not know which was what. Blind test. They were handed to me and i ran them.

I found every one of the full length set ups after a magazine. Crazy as it sounds. Just something about the way they ran.

I do think it ran little smoother with the FLGR which was a Wilson Combat (the buffers were Wilson also). At the time the pistol was in my EDC rotation and didn't feel comfortable running the buffers anywhere but the range so stopped using them after the failure.

 

[churchmouse]

I do think it ran little smoother with the FLGR which was a Wilson Combat (the buffers were Wilson also). At the time the pistol was in my EDC rotation and didn't feel comfortable running the buffers anywhere but the range so stopped using them after the failure.

Yes I can see that. Confidence. Especially in an EDC.

As mentioned I only run one in the 2011 (Buffer) due to it being a 10mm and the full Monti rounds we enjoy running in it. It was posted run good springs up thread. We do. It still pins the ears back on the slide stop. I do look at the buffer during cleaning.

The guide rod thing can and will be debated to eternity. Arguments range from folks being unable to use an allen, not wanting to carry an allen in the range bag (I have had a few come loose so I get that but the fix is too easy) not liking the extra step in tear down to not wanting to spend the money. The later I think is the more common thing.

I have a set parts list that goes into about every factory 1911 I own/buy these days. The guide rod is on that list. EGW has become my go to for most things 1911 as to ignition controls guide rods barrel bushings.

 

[Trapper Jim]

Yes I can see that. Confidence. Especially in an EDC.

As mentioned I only run one in the 2011 (Buffer) due to it being a 10mm and the full Monti rounds we enjoy running in it. It was posted run good springs up thread. We do. It still pins the ears back on the slide stop. I do look at the buffer during cleaning.

The guide rod thing can and will be debated to eternity. Arguments range from folks being unable to use an allen, not wanting to carry an allen in the range bag (I have had a few come loose so I get that but the fix is too easy) not liking the extra step in tear down to not wanting to spend the money. The later I think is the more common thing.

I have a set parts list that goes into about every factory 1911 I own/buy these days. The guide rod is on that list. EGW has become my go to for most things 1911 as to ignition controls guide rods barrel bushings.[/QU

Yes to guide rods and no benefit seen from my testing of recoil buffers. I have used them on my heavy use models and see the wear they take as they chew up however on my non recoil buffer heavy use 1911's I have no frame wear in that area either. So I use them on my heavy game guns only but can live without them across the board. I never have had a malfunction with the chewed up remains in the frame but do not like taking them that far.

 

[88E30M50]

I get that. Run what you are comfortable with. They run just fine with the spring and plug from the factory but "IMHO" () they run smoother with a proper guide rod.

We did a non-scientific test between the 2 set ups. We had a few factory set ups and a few with full length rods. I did not know which was what. Blind test. They were handed to me and i ran them.

I found every one of the full length set ups after a magazine. Crazy as it sounds. Just something about the way they ran.

I was a part of that scientific test that CM speaks of. We didn’t have a slide rule with us, but there was graph paper there somewhere. I had two of my DW 1911s and factory, they felt identical. I put a FLGR in one of them and didn’t let CM know which one but he was able to identify which one had if after shooting them. To be completely honest, I could not tell the difference but the fact that CM could feel it tells me that there’s a difference in feel to someone that knows how to run a 1911.

 

[rhino]

I was a part of that scientific test that CM speaks of. We didn’t have a slide rule with us, but there was graph paper there somewhere. I had two of my DW 1911s and factory, they felt identical. I put a FLGR in one of them and didn’t let CM know which one but he was able to identify which one had if after shooting them. To be completely honest, I could not tell the difference but the fact that CM could feel it tells me that there’s a difference in feel to someone that knows how to run a 1911.

My opinion: the felt difference is due to the added weight.

 

[churchmouse]

My opinion: the felt difference is due to the added weight.

They just run smoother people. Seriously. Yes that tiny bit of weight might in fact add to the experience but a captured spring will run a much truer course and not impede the action it is taking part in. JMHO of course.

 

[LCSOSgt11]

I use Wilson Shok-Buffs in my full-sized 1911, as I shoot Hornady Critical Duty +P. With that said, one must check them periodically and replace regularly.