Installing an inverter in the Jeep and need some advice!

[Sheepdog Gear]

Hey guys! Thanks in advance for any help! So I'm installing a 2000 W inverter in the Jeep. As pictured below, I'm using 1/0 AWG cable and a 200 amp fuse. Hopefully I'm at least good to go there.

Issue is, I don't want to kill off my main battery when I'm working out of the back of the Jeep. Has anybody done this and installed a secondary battery in their system? I would also need to find the schematics on how to do so as I'd like the alternator to charge up that battery as well. And if I go that route and I'm looking to purchase a battery, is the biggest selling point going to be how many amp hours it has? I believe that's probably the most important factor for my needs, correct? Thanks again guys!

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

Stupid Photobucket. Sorry guys. I guess the image isn't important anyhow.

 

[Topshot]

You need a smaller fuse for one. Looks like 150 A max for normal 75 degree C rated wire or 170 A for 90 degree C.

 

[eldirector]

I've had dual batteries in the old CJ for years. Need a dual-battery tray to hold both (lots of options, and depends on your year/model), proper wiring, and then a battery isolater.

Something like:
https://www.4wd.com/p/westin-t-max-dual-battery-system-47-3800/_/R-BCTC-47-3800

Again, tons of options. Search for "dual battery isolater". Popular with the 4x4 crowd (for running winches) and with the RV crowd (isolates starting battery from the accessory battery).

I am guessing you want the largest (highest amp-hour) battery that will fit. Likely a deep-discharge (deep cycle) battery. I tend to like AGM batteries, as they can be mounted sideways or even upside down. Not the cheapest, though.

You can also go all-out and get a pre-built kit with all the bells and whistles:
https://www.genesisoffroad.com/JKDualBatteryKit-p/131-jkdbk.htm

 

[moosehead]

As for not killing the primary battery when using the inverter, you should an isolator in the line. Think of it as a heavy duty relay which will allow the 2nd battery to charge when the engine is running, but kills the connection between the batteries when switched off.

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

You need a smaller fuse for one. Looks like 150 A max for normal 75 degree C rated wire or 170 A for 90 degree C.

I'm sorry. I don't understand the lingo. Mechanical concepts I'm pretty good with. Electrical is a different animal for me. Ha ha! I'll look it up. But, it was the manufacturer of the inverter that recommended the 200. I'll get it contact with them to make sure they didn't mistakenly tell me the wrong amps.

I've had dual batteries in the old CJ for years. Need a dual-battery tray to hold both (lots of options, and depends on your year/model), proper wiring, and then a battery isolater.

Something like:
https://www.4wd.com/p/westin-t-max-dual-battery-system-47-3800/_/R-BCTC-47-3800

Again, tons of options. Search for "dual battery isolater". Popular with the 4x4 crowd (for running winches) and with the RV crowd (isolates starting battery from the accessory battery).

I am guessing you want the largest (highest amp-hour) battery that will fit. Likely a deep-discharge (deep cycle) battery. I tend to like AGM batteries, as they can be mounted sideways or even upside down. Not the cheapest, though.

You can also go all-out and get a pre-built kit with all the bells and whistles:
https://www.genesisoffroad.com/JKDualBatteryKit-p/131-jkdbk.htm

Thanks! Mine is a 2015 JKU Willy's. I originally planned on having the secondary battery near the inverter inside the Jeep, (vented out somehow of course). I like this idea better though if I can swing it. And it looks like an isolator is a must for me.

As for not killing the primary battery when using the inverter, you should an isolator in the line. Think of it as a heavy duty relay which will allow the 2nd battery to charge when the engine is running, but kills the connection between the batteries when switched off.

That sounds perfect. Thanks!

 

[Topshot]

I'm sorry. I don't understand the lingo. Mechanical concepts I'm pretty good with. Electrical is a different animal for me. Ha ha! I'll look it up. But, it was the manufacturer of the inverter that recommended the 200. I'll get it contact with them to make sure they didn't mistakenly tell me the wrong amps.

Then you should go 2 wire sizes larger to 3/0. Normal (75 degree C) 1/0 is rated for 150 A. You don't want your fuse larger than the wire is rated. Chart FYI In essence, you likely have 200 A service coming into your house if it's been built in the last few decades so you need conductors about the same size.

 

[Butch627]

How many watts will you be pulling off the inverter and for how long? Where do you plan on mounting it?

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

I would say on average, probably not more than 500 W at a time for maybe an hour.

It'll be mounted in the back of the Jeep for now. Possibly moved into a box trailer in the future.

 

[Butch627]

So you will be using it with the engine running? If it won't fit under the hood I would recommend using anderson connectors and temp mounting it right next to the engine when using it. You would need very large conductors going to the back of the jeep or farther and would still be loosing a lot of current.

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

So you will be using it with the engine running? If it won't fit under the hood I would recommend using anderson connectors and temp mounting it right next to the engine when using it. You would need very large conductors going to the back of the jeep or farther and would still be loosing a lot of current.

The goal would be to do it with the engine off, which I why I was leaning toward a second battery. And listening to everybody's advice here, I'll be looking for a way to have that second battery in the engine compartment.

 

[actaeon277]

What about just running a small generator? Either gas or propane powered?

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

What about just running a small generator? Either gas or propane powered?

Thought about that, but here's my situation....

The reason I need power is to run my Tormek T-8 Swedish knife and tool sharpening system. I just started up a mobile knife sharpening business and will be traveling to restaurants / salons / barbers, etc. If I were to power via generator, I think I'd be causing a noise nuisance in every parking lot I went to.

 

[actaeon277]

Thought about that, but here's my situation....

The reason I need power is to run my Tormek T-8 Swedish knife and tool sharpening system. I just started up a mobile knife sharpening business and will be traveling to restaurants / salons / barbers, etc. If I were to power via generator, I think I'd be causing a noise nuisance in every parking lot I went to.

You could check, but I think the propane generators can get pretty quiet.

 

[actaeon277]

Actually, I think the Honda's have some real quiet gas generators.

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

Just did a quick Amazon search and this is the only small, quiet propane generator I could find....

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-EF200...=1524688291&sr=1-9&keywords=propane+generator

Creeping up on $1K.

That, and I already bought all the inverter stuff. I should've researched more before purchasing. I was quick to buy because I sponsored my daughters little league team and my Jeep is pulling their float in the parade on Saturday. They wanted some crazy loud speakers hooked up, so I bit the bullet.

 

[K_W]

500w at 12v for an hour is 42 amp hours... that's a lot of demand for a standard vehicle battery and they are not normally rated in amp hours and reserve capacity is calculated at 25A so figuring out how long it will run the tool is difficult... plus they are not designed to survive such abuse.

A deep cycle battery is though... 24 series deep cycle trolling battery is rated for about 85 amp hours, but the voltage will drop from that level of load and taper off, so you MIGHT get an hour from one of those. I'd go with a separate 29 series deep cycle battery (~105 amp hour) that you charge independently from the vehicle electrical system.

...or just buy an AGM starting battery and run the tool on the inverter from the engine bay with the vehicle running, but monitor voltage and alternator temperature.

 

[lonehoosier]

.

 

[Butch627]

The goal would be to do it with the engine off, which I why I was leaning toward a second battery. And listening to everybody's advice here, I'll be looking for a way to have that second battery in the engine compartment.

You need to determine how long your battery will last pulling 500W at 120AC from the inverter. Then determine how much current will be lost from long cables pushing 12VDC through them to feed that inverter. I will agree with others that you should be using a 1000w Honda generator. By the time you buy the necessary cables, controls, and batteries you will way ahead with the generator and have a more reliable power source. Did you read the literature that came with the inverter? In every high powered inverter I have ever dealt with they gave tables for cable length and size and always recommended the shortest path possible between the battery and inverter.

 

[actaeon277]

Honda's are the quietest.
But, surely you can find one not quite so expensive.

Maybe there's a generator forum.
Or maybe a store that would run one for you to see how quiet they are.