Indiana Trailer Laws

[IndyGunworks]

I have a couple of questions about trailers. I tried searching the BMV's website but couldn't find much of anything.

I have heard (gunstore rumor) that if a trailer I am pulling has more than 2 axles that I need a CDL?

All I can really find is that if it weighs more than 3,000 pounds it has to have breaks.

I bought a single axle 5x8 trailer from a guy at a garage sale for 100 bucks. It wasn't plated, and it wasn't titled. Its factory built, but doesn't have any VIN's or any other identifying markings on it. when I looked into getting it titled it asked the reason that it wasn't titled. I am afraid that I might put something here that would leave them to believe its stolen. I highly doubt it is, it was an older gentleman who could barely walk that said he bought it a LOOONG time ago and he was the original owner, but couldn't produce any documentation. How do I go about making this trailer legal?

Finally, all the GVW stuff is confusing. some are saying certain things are legal, others are saying its a recommendation... some are saying that the vehicle rating is important or I would end up frying my truck.

I have a 2006 chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab 4x4 if it matters. the heaviest load I would ever pull and only for short distances would be my 6000 pound tractor and that would be a rare occasion, everything else will be construction material and yard waste.
Lastly, I am considering putting a 5 wheel hitch on this truck to make pulling a longer trailer easier. pro's cons? what should I expect the cost to be to add this? are they difficult to remove? approximately how much do they cost to add?

 

[gunrunner0]

In regard to more than two axles requiring a CDL, I have no statutory or administrative backing, but tri-axle campers and personal-use trailers are pretty common, so I call BS. I believe the only time you need to worry about a CDL, is when you're hauling for profit or over a certain weight limit. I wouldn't worry about this when pulling a trailer locally with your own equipment on it, particularly if you're not heavily trafficked highways.

I would highly recommend that you follow the weight ratings of your vehicle, all of this information will be in the owner's manual. Can you get away with more? Absolutely, but why risk the safety of yourself and others, as well as the well-being of your equipment, by pushing it. These weight ratings take into account, not only what your frame, suspension, engine and axle can reasonably handle but also your brakes, heavy loads are tough to stop even with a good set of trailer brakes.

As far as a 5th wheel, I'm always skeptical of a 5th wheel or gooseneck in a 1/2 ton, if you're within the weight rating, it's fine. That being said, it's still a 1/2 ton and you need to figure in more weight of a heavier duty, bigger 5th wheel/ Gooseneck trailer. If you had #2000 trailer with a #6000 tractor, I'm guessing you would be overweight. I have an '03 2500HD with a 6.0L, it's only rated for 10,300 on a 5th wheel, so I'm guessing your truck has a significantly lower tow rating. Furthermore, a properly installed 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch is going to be pretty pricey, if you're only going short distances, I wouldn't mess with it, though I will say a 5th wheel or gooseneck is leaps and bounds better to back and pull than a bumper pull. If that's the setup you're determined to go with, and it's within the capacity of your truck, I'd recommend a gooseneck over a 5th wheel. The goose is going to pull better over rough ground and uneven roads, where as the 5th wheel will do better going down the highway, this is why you generally see ag trailers with goosenecks and campers with 5th wheels.

If you're looking for a trailer to haul a tractor, I'd watch craigslist and the used market for a well built, bumper pull, tandem axle, heavy car hauler or equipment trailer. Do your research and make sure you get a good set of axles with proper weight ratings, that are above what you think you need right now, it's always nice to have room to grow. I would also recommend something with trailer brakes and heavy duty ramps. Again, make sure your truck and hitch will handle the weight of the loaded trailer before you buy anything.

 

[femurphy77]

Unless it's a VERY well built trailer I would be very leery of putting 6000 #'s on a single axle trailer. Whatever the load, invest in actual trailer tires vs passenger car tires, it will be well worth it. Your 1500 should be more than adequate pulling the trailer as long as it's not overloaded. Can't answer the CDL question but on the 5th wheel hitch, I've noticed quite a few at garage sales over the summer. I never asked how much because I don't have a need for one but you can probably save a bundle that way. The only caveat there is that you'll need to know what to look out for when buying used.

YMMV and I'm sure someone will kick in refuting all of the above.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I would prefer a gooseneck for the simplicity and cost of the hitch, however 5th wheel trailers at least on the used market seem to be built a bit tougher. my truck is rated for 6400 pounds and while pulling the tractor I am sure I would be pushing it, but again, that's only for short distances when I need to take it to be worked on. I have already pulled it pretty far (bought it from southern Indiana) and it handled pretty well. I pulled it that far on a tandem axle car hauler w/out trailer breaks.... so anything over that is going to be a remarkable improvement.

most of the stuff I will be hauling will be construction materials and be well w/in capacity.

 

[gunrunner0]

I agree with femurphy, don't try to haul a #6000 tractor on a 5x7 single axle. I would guess at best, it's got a #3500 axle.

As for making it legal, I would call your local BMV. My dad bought a homemade car hauler that had never been titled. I believe the sheriff had to come out and inspect it to make sure it wasn't stolen and road worthy. After it passed, the BMV assigned it a VIN and titled it.

 

[eldirector]

1) CDL is not by # of axles. It is by weight (and if you are commercial. Hence, the "C" in CDL)
2) Yes, you need brakes if tagged 3K or more.
3) If they won't title it, you may need to take it either to the BMV or to local LE for inspection and VIN assignment
4) GVWR is a good guideline. You can tow heaver legally. Heck, the BMV will tag a trailer for about anything you want. My 7K trailer is tagged for 9K.

I wouldn't bother with a 5th on a 1500 series truck. You can't pull anything heavy enough to benefit. Even your 6K tractor would be entertaining behind that truck. A 1500 is rated at 5700# towing. If your tractor is 6K, and your trailer is about 1500#, you are almost a full ton over weight.

For what it is worth - I've researched towing laws a bunch. They are even harder to make sense of than gun laws!

 

[Rookie]

I'm betting a 5x7 has a 2,000 pound axle.

 

[bocefus78]

I'm betting a 5x7 has a 2,000 pound axle.

X2

And I believe the cdl limit on weight doesn't apply to personal use aka "not for hire"

 

[IndyGunworks]

I am not trying to tow the tractor on the 5x7, its single axle and pretty junkie... I picked it up CHEAP, to haul the cannon, and now I am realizing how difficult it will be to actually title it and make it a legal trailer.

the sticker on my door of my truck says 6400 gvw. I am OK w/ being a ton over for the once a year I haul it somewhere. It sounds like I should really be looking at a bumper pull instead of a gooseneck even.

 

[HoughMade]

THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVICE

This is merely a hick reporting what he's done in the past. I agree with not putting a gooseneck on a 1/2 ton. However, I'm with you on pulling a heavier load than rated if it's not a long distance and it's not at freeway speeds.

Now a story from the bad old days. When I sold cars, my boss used to spend the winter in Florida buying, essentially, pure crap. One set of purchases involved a Sunbird station wagon, a 25 foot enclosed car trailer with bent axles, the deconstructed remains of an 18x20 deck, and a 1990 K1500 with a 4.3L V6 and a 5 speed manual. I think you know where this is going. Our mechanic ended up flying to Florida and loading the Sunbird and lumber into the trailer, hooking it to the Chevy truck and pulling the whole mess from West Palm Beach to Grand Rapids Michigan in February. He reported that he nearly quit several times both while climbing (a lot of 5th, 4th, 3rd following by vaguely sacrilegious impromptu prayers), but more often descending (just a lot of swearing), the Appalachians. The trailer got back with the possibly repairable axles completely shot...the rest was safe and sound, but still pure crap.

 

[Jeepster48439]

2) Yes, you need brakes if tagged 3K or more.

Just so I understand as clearly as possible, if the axle has a #3500 rating, then it needs to have brakes. Correct?

 

[gunrunner0]

Just so I understand as clearly as possible, if the axle has a #3500 rating, then it needs to have brakes. Correct?

Correct, but many manufacturers throw on #3500 pound axles and rate it at #2950 or similar to avoid needing brakes. I just bought a 6x12 enclosed trailer done this way.

 

[Jeepster48439]

Correct, but many manufacturers throw on #3500 pound axles and rate it at #2950 or similar to avoid needing brakes. I just bought a 6x12 enclosed trailer done this way.

Good to know.

Better to have that margin, because we all know that if you rate it at #3500, then we will load and pull #5000.

 

[IndyGunworks]

where do you check to see what the axles are rated for?

 

[gunrunner0]

where do you check to see what the axles are rated for?

If it's a new trailer you can obviously ask the manufacturer, also the axle is usually tagged with a rating either on a sticker or stamped into it. But these are usually hard to find or obliterated on used trailers so you can go by the diameter.

Here's a good guide on going by the diameter:
How To Determine the Weight Capacity For a Trailer Axle | etrailer.com

Also, on newer axles, the number of lugs can be a basic, quick indicator, just like on a pickup, more lugs= heavier weight rating. But the diameter test is more precise, though not perfect.

EDIT: If it were me, I'd find the manufacturer's name and a model number or serial number on the axle itself and use that information to get a weight rating from the manufacturer, though this only works if you can find the information on the axle, and it's a reputable company that makes the info easy to find online or by phone, like dexter, etc.

 

[eldirector]

I am not trying to tow the tractor on the 5x7, its single axle and pretty junkie... I picked it up CHEAP, to haul the cannon, and now I am realizing how difficult it will be to actually title it and make it a legal trailer.

the sticker on my door of my truck says 6400 gvw. I am OK w/ being a ton over for the once a year I haul it somewhere. It sounds like I should really be looking at a bumper pull instead of a gooseneck even.

GVWR is not your tow rating. It is the maximum weight rating of the vehicle itself, plus cargo in the vehicle (like passengers). Your curb weight is 4890. Gives you a cargo weight of 1510. Subtract a full load of fuel and two adults, and you get to that 1/2 ton naming convention.

The tow rating is in the manual, or you can find online. The number I posted was from a quick Google search. The rating is based on more than the engine power and suspension. Frame construction and brakes are a big pat of it. The point isn't weather you can get the load moving, but if you can stop before running over a bus full of nuns.


Sorry, I know. I just tow my 6000 lb junk around pretty regularly, so try to be careful. I've also seen some pretty sketchy loads.

 

[northtownship]

When I titled and got plates for my homemade trailer a few years back. I caught a county officer driving by the house and asked if he had a MVIN form. He gave me one out of his file in the trunk. I filled it out and mailed it in. The BMV sent me a mvin# and another form. I stamped the number on the trailer tongue and had a local cop check it out. Took the paperwork to the BMV and done. i got the title a couple weeks later. They wanted to know how much you spent to build it or a receipt from who you bought it from. Overall it took about 4 weeks to get it all done.

 

[DarkRose]

I agree with femurphy, don't try to haul a #6000 tractor on a 5x7 single axle. I would guess at best, it's got a #3500 axle.

As for making it legal, I would call your local BMV. My dad bought a homemade car hauler that had never been titled. I believe the sheriff had to come out and inspect it to make sure it wasn't stolen and road worthy. After it passed, the BMV assigned it a VIN and titled it.

Dad had to do the same thing. Iirc, the law was changed a few years back for certain trailers. His boat trailer was homebuilt and never titled, then the law changed, so he had to have State Police come inspect it and sign off, and he had to engrave the VIN he was assigned by the BMV.

 

[IndyGunworks]

FWIW and take it with a grain of salt, but the guy on the phone when I called the BMV to also try and answer this question said Indiana has ALWAYS required titles for tailers.

 

[shibumiseeker]

FWIW and take it with a grain of salt, but the guy on the phone when I called the BMV to also try and answer this question said Indiana has ALWAYS required titles for tailers.

I can't address "always" but I have bought, sold, and used trailers since 1988 and even the used ones I had then either had or needed titles. Gone the "have a leo come out and fill out the paperwork for the DMV to get a title" schtick a few times.