Free Floating a AR

[Jlburger]

I have been looking at free floating my second AR and am trying to get a list of stuff that I will need. Does anyone know of a cheap kit? Also is there anywhere around the Lafayette or Indy area that carries the special AR wrench and receiver clamp? Thanks for any help.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I too am on the quest. MidwayUSA has a section to help pick the parts, but I'll warn you, the handguard link doesnt work. You'll need to locate your own freefloat tube on the site. (the link takes you to all the add-on vertical grips available, not the forends)

MidwayUSA ? Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes


This is from Brownells. Havent used it... AR-15 Builder - Build and Customize your own AR15 | Brownells

 

[Jlburger]

Awesome. Thanks. I'll check it out.

 

[Hop]

Free float how? Like using a standard A2 style hand guard or going to something like a railed hand guard?

I want to free float my Colt A2. I've been looking at this kit:
https://armalite.com/shop/m-15-a2-national-match-free-float-handguard-black/

 

[jd4320t]

Free floating hand guard or rail and a low profile gas block. It's that easy.

 

[Grease]

If you are going to free float your AR rail, make sure you use a QUALITY rail. NO UTG, NC Star, Ergo etc....spend the extra money and buy Troy, Daniel Defense, Diamondhead, Samson, Knights Armament to name a few.

try to attend a gun show or two and check out differing rails on guns to get a really good idea of what you want. Be aware that a more narrow rail is going to heat up fast and you will need to wear gloves when you shoot, no way around this. Also, a quad rail is going to have a lot of extra weight and a LOT of wasted rail, try to go with a lightweight modular rail to avoid this. You can then place the rail sections where you want them.

Keep in mind that free floating your rail is going to improve accuracy a little bit as there is only one contact point on the barrel where it is attached to the upper. If you decide to take off the FSB and go with a low profile gas block, you will add a good bit of money on new sights as well so be prepared.

if you use a railed gas block, do NOT put a magpul, or any plastic sights on it, the gas block gets VERY hot and will melt your sight. Metal sights are OK to install on the gas block but, IMO railed gas blocks look like schnit. If doing the swap yourself, make sure you are using the correct tools and vice blocks. Also, try to reuse your gas tube roll pin as a lo-pro gas block kit will usually not come with one. That pin is usually $1-2 and you may as well order one because you more than likely will ruin one or two figuring it out. You will also need a new crush washer for the flash hider, loctite will NOT work on the flash hider.

approximate rail cost: $200-250
low profile gas block: $35
gas block pin: $1-2
crush washer for flash hider:$2-3
new sight set: $100-175

 

[wsenefeld]

Before you purchase an AR wrench, figure out what kind of handguard you are getting. Several manufacturers require a proprietary wrench that they may or may not include with the handguard.

The handguards can be had for anywhere from $120-$400+. My 15" Midwest Industries mlok was $161 shipped. No need to pin a low profile gas block. I've shot tens of thousands of rounds and never had set screws come loose. Primary Arms frequently has Odin Works melonite gas blocks on sale for $20. UTG handguards are a completely different product than the rest of their line. They are made here in the USA and are of remarkable quality for their price point. The rest of the brand is just plain crap. Add in the cost of a front sight (my Magpul PRO was $67) and you're about set. There's really nothing to it. I've free floated many, many AR's and they are all pretty easy and straight forward.

 

[T-DOGG]

The least expensive quality kit would be the UTG Pro series, the barrel nut wrench is included. You would need a low profile gas block, torque wrench, and upper receiver vise block. Or just buy the parts and have one of the shops in the Indy area do the install. And I second what wsenefeld said about the UTG Pro handguards, they are of high quality, they are cerakoted, the fitment is spot on, they are very thin in OD diameter, and they come with 3 rail sections. Very good product that unfortunately flies under the radar because of the other crap-tastic products that UTG puts out. I have two of their rails, one on a 16" rifle, and one on the wife's 10.5" pistol. I personally am very budget minded, but also don't like junk, so that's why I really like these because they are very solid with a much better price point than other name brand ones. YMMV.

 

[Grease]

I will have to check out UTG Pro line, we don't have any shops here in New Orleans that stock many AR parts and if they do, it's magpul or the Blackhawk crap at Academy Sports.

when selecting a gas block, make sure quality is your number one priority and NOT cost. There is something in the like 50,000 psi pressure range passing thru that tiny little piece, you do not want that to fail over saving $15-20.

i must admit those UTG rails look nice but, as I said before, you will need gloves just to hold the front end of your rifle after 2 or 3 mags.

 

[Jlburger]

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Jlburger]

I can use the same gas tube correct?

 

[Jlburger]

Never mind. I got my answer.

 

[Grease]

I also second having a local shop do the swap for you. By the time you add up the cost of a good, quality barrel nut wrench (not that "all in one" piece of junk from DPMS), a good punch set and hammer, a torque wrench, thread grease (for the barrel nut threads) a vice and a quality upper vice block (not the style that holds just the upper receiver pins) you have more than paid for a gun smith to complete this 20 minute job.

you will also need a crescent wrench for the flash hider and maybe Allen wrenches but, those are common enough that you should already have them.

if you plan on making this a hobby (my way of spelling addiction), then buy the best tools you can find and watch videos on you tube to learn how to do the job, it is sickeningly simple.

when driving pins out of your FSB and gas block, make sure you support the barrel directly underneath, you do not want to chance bending it. A foot long pice of 2x4 has worked well for me for years. There is also a plastic block on the market for like $40 if you want to go that route.

 

[Jlburger]

I'm probably just going to buy the tools. I understand the addition aspect of it. Same thing with archery. Before I new it I had a bow press and draw board.

thanks for the advice and instructions.

I also second having a local shop do the swap for you. By the time you add up the cost of a good, quality barrel nut wrench (not that "all in one" piece of junk from DPMS), a good punch set and hammer, a torque wrench, thread grease (for the barrel nut threads) a vice and a quality upper vice block (not the style that holds just the upper receiver pins) you have more than paid for a gun smith to complete this 20 minute job.

you will also need a crescent wrench for the flash hider and maybe Allen wrenches but, those are common enough that you should already have them.

if you plan on making this a hobby (my way of spelling addiction), then buy the best tools you can find and watch videos on you tube to learn how to do the job, it is sickeningly simple.

when driving pins out of your FSB and gas block, make sure you support the barrel directly underneath, you do not want to chance bending it. A foot long pice of 2x4 has worked well for me for years. There is also a plastic block on the market for like $40 if you want to go that route.

 

[chezuki]

I'm gonna be that guy...



$20 eBay quad rail. Not something I'd want to go to battle with, but it works. I only put it on there originally to get the build functional while I save the $300 for BCM Keymod. Well, life continues to happen and I haven't yet been able to upgrade. The rifle has now been through 2 classes and a couple thousand rounds without issue.

While I still plan to upgrade at some point, I feel no shame continuing to run this until then.











...hey look, a penny!

 

[Jlburger]

Doesn't look too bad. I'm guessing it's poly?

 

[CountryBoy19]

Also is there anywhere around the Lafayette or Indy area that carries the special AR wrench and receiver clamp? Thanks for any help.

Depending on the rail you choose you may not need any of that. Samson (and I'm sure others as well) makes a rail that goes directly on the standard barrel nut. If you have an existing AR with standard nut, delta-ring, & handguard there is no need to remove the barrel nut, just use a dremel etc to carefully cut the delta-ring and spring off the nut and then put the free-float rail on...

 

[chezuki]

Doesn't look too bad. I'm guessing it's poly?

No it's aluminum.

 

[Grease]

Depending on the rail you choose you may not need any of that. Samson (and I'm sure others as well) makes a rail that goes directly on the standard barrel nut. If you have an existing AR with standard nut, delta-ring, & handguard there is no need to remove the barrel nut, just use a dremel etc to carefully cut the delta-ring and spring off the nut and then put the free-float rail on...

He will need the wrench plus needle nose pliers to remove then disassemble the D-ring in order to use the barrel nut.

 

[wsenefeld]

He will need the wrench plus needle nose pliers to remove then disassemble the D-ring in order to use the barrel nut.

In the scenario that CountryBoy was explaining, he wouldn't need an armorers wrench or pliers. There are several handguard manufacturers that use a standard barrel nut which he could leave in place, eliminating the need for the wrench. Daniel Defense, Fortis, and Midwest Industries are just a few off the top of my head. Like he said, use a dremel (have done it myself a time or two) on the d-ring and it'll come off real easy.