Dummy rounds

[indyblue]

All of my books mention to building and keeping a dummy round for each seating die setup (in this case 223 REM).

How does making a dummy round help save any time with die setup? None of what I read really explains what to do with the dummy round.

When prepping for a new batch of ammo, I usually setup the die to the "default" (i.e. turn the die into the press until it bottoms on the shellholder and back off x number of turns (for no crimp). Then I run the seating plug several turns out so I don't get seated too far and have a chance to dial the depth in desired value.

If I put a round in the press, it's hard to tell where (how far into the die) exactly the shell goes before it hits the seating plug or how close it is to the crimp ring. Is this something I should be able to feel manually?

 

[BigRed]

Curious as well.

I always keep a proven live round as a standard to measure new loads against.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I only keep a proper length case for my bottleneck rounds to set my trimmer with. As far as die settings go, they never change as I have dedicated blocks for each one.

 

[jsn_mooney]

I make dummies for different kinds of bullets in the same caliber. When I am switching from one to the other I will back the seating stem out and run the dummy up in the press and then screw the seater down with my fingers until I feel it stop, and then load one and measure the OAL, it may take a couple rounds to get it just right, but it gets you real close. I use the ones that are just a little off for foulers.
Don't know if that's how you are supposed to do it, but that's how I do it.
I have actually bought some used non carbide die sets off eBay when I can find them super cheap, and set up the seating dies for cast bullets so I don't have to reset the dies- I'm lazy, and I don't think I ever paid more than $10 for an old set of non carbide dies that nobody wants.
Hope this helps you some.

 

[indyblue]

TY mooney. If I'm starting from scratch with a caliber, what I do is seat long and keep turning in the seater in increments and ramming the same round until it is right on usually 2-4 tries.

I guess I should mention doing this on an RCBS Rebel single stage press. Once I remove that die from the press I'll need to reset/test it all again anyway, no way I'll get that die seated in the exact same pace every time. Plus I currently have the Uniflow powder dump mounted to the press under the die. I will eventually get that mounted separately to the bench.

How does a dummy ease re-adjustment? It doesn't seem to "save" any/many steps to be worth it.

Here is how "The ABC's of Reloading" explains:

 

[2in1evtime]

If i had dummy rounds for every caliber- bullet i load i would have a ammo can full of dummies

 

[indyblue]

I only keep a proper length case for my bottleneck rounds to set my trimmer with. As far as die settings go, they never change as I have dedicated blocks for each one.

Not sure what you mean by "dedicated blocks". Do you have multiple presses or are you using multiple turrets loaded up with dies?

Admittedly, I should probably have just started with a turret but as a noob to reloading I wanted to master the basics first.

 

[55fairlane]

I have never used a dummy round to set up my dies, I invest in several seating dies, and keep a die dedicated to each projectile....I.E. I load 55 grain, 62 grain 69 grain & 77 grain 223remington ,and I load each of these for 2 different rifles....I keep a powder dedicated to the powder & charge, and I keep a seater die dedicated to that particular projectile.....well worth the time/money in my case.

 

[Michigan Slim]

Not sure what you mean by "dedicated blocks". Do you have multiple presses or are you using multiple turrets loaded up with dies?

Admittedly, I should probably have just started with a turret but as a noob to reloading I wanted to master the basics first.

Die blocks. Always set up. Pull two pins and swap them out.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I'm using Dillon 550's also.

 

[indyblue]

I see. Well, that's a cool setup, neve seen a press like that. I am not that heavily invested in equipment yet, LOL.

I am on a budget and the single stage Rebel kit was the best investment I could think of to get started. I have almost everything I need for all my calibers but I don't have all I want for now. I'm still reloading way cheaper than I can buy factory even with the startup cost factored in.

EDIT: yeah a removable die head feature is nice.

 

[sugarcreekbrass]

Your dies should have a locking ring. Some are better than others. The RCBS dies have the brass set screw. Once you set the die where you want it, be sure to tighten the set screw. Be sure not to overtighten as those strip out easily. To help prevent this, I took the screw out and put lead shot in the hole. I then tightened the screw. The lead mashes around the threads and helps hold the locking ring in place. Lee dies do not have a way to lock the rings. You can get marker and draw a mark on the die and locking ring. As long as the marks are lined up, the die is still set.

 

[Leadeye]

I cast a lot of different bullets and have a small tacklebox full of dummies both current and from ammo past. I use them for both die setup, and chambering.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I cast a lot of different bullets and have a small tacklebox full of dummies both current and from ammo past. I use them for both die setup, and chambering.

I'm a caster also. Every time I open my mold and drop bullets, I think CHA CHING.

 

[BigRed]

Good info in here

 

[natdscott]

I use the Russian technique for die set up:

A pencil and paper.

 

[Bill2905]

Over the years, I have accumulated a collection of handgun caliber dummy rounds, mostly from my early days of reloading. They can save you a minute or so by eliminating the trial and error process of seating depth adjustment but it's simply a personal preference if you use them or not.

The only things I keep around for bottleneck work are trimmed cases for setting up my trimmer.

 

[Thegeek]

For plinking it's not that important. You can setup so the shell holder kisses the sizing die, trim the case if it's too long, and seat to a specified OAL. That will keep everything in SAAMI spec.

When it comes to precision loading, that's when dummy rounds start to become important. There's a guy on YouTube I like, Erik Cortina. He's an F-class competition shooter and explains things in a very good way. I've linked a few of his vids below that address the topic of dummy loads. Some indirectly, but relative. If you watch all four of these, I think you'll understand the idea.

In a nutshell, everything is relative. The dummy round becomes a custom gauge from which you can take measurements. Different bullets will measure differently. You care about 3 things at the end of the day. 1) overall case length so you don't create a dangerous situation, 2) headspace bump so you fit well, but not so tight you lock up, 3) seating depth so you can get optimal jump.

Case sizing for .002 bump:


Finding Jam:


Seating depth and jam:


How case sizing affects depth: