Car overheating - need help

[Hoosierdood]

If this is a radiator where you can remove the cap and see water flow: when cool, remove cap and start car. Keep feeling top hose to learn when tstat opens and see if you can see flow (pump or tstat). Also, should be able to see if the passages are partially plugged (rad).

Nope, its the system with a coolant reservoir. I wish I could see in the radiator.

 

[croy]

Always try thermostat first. They’re cheap and usually pretty easy.

I don't really have anything productive to add to this conversation. But I had a Chevy Cruze for a few years and it was I want to say $90 for a new thermostat for that car..

 

[chezuki]

I don't really have anything productive to add to this conversation. But I had a Chevy Cruze for a few years and it was I want to say $90 for a new thermostat for that car..

Chevy was a bit wackadoo on that one. The thermostat, housing, and temp sensor are all one unit.

 

[Dead Duck]

Have you tried some uncoiled rice yet?
I keep a bag in my vehicles just in case.

 

[jkaetz]

I thought it might be heater core too, so I cranked the heat. Still overheats.

That would seem to indicate that coolant is not flowing through the system then. Next question is why not.

 

[dprimm]

Does the fan work to pull air through the radiator? My focus did that (got hot at a stop, cool when move) was a solinoid. but temp was regular when driving.

The heater bit sounds like stuff is not moving.

 

[thunderchicken]

This is my daughter's car. 2001 Ford Escape with 3.0 V6 engine.

Here's the main issue... When she is driving her car, the temp goes up about 3/4 of the way (assuming around 210 degrees) which seems a little high to begin with. OEM stat is either 180 or 192. When she stops in traffic, it rapidly goes up almost to red line. It hasn't gotten all the way to red line, but pretty darn close. When she gives it gas, the temp goes back to 3/4. When she slows down, it goes back up.

I have checked the coolant level, and its fine. I let it warm up and felt the hose going to the top of the radiator, and it is firm and warm, so I assume the thermostat is opening up. She has 2 fans on the radiator and they are both kicking on.

Only thing I have found online is possible air pockets in the system. Other than that, I'm stumped. Looking for some input before I go and tear this whole thing apart.

Attached is a picture she took when it was pretty high.

View attachment 72875

I've dealt with this exact complain a couple time on these Ford Escapes with 3.0 engines.
Just to verify, you did confirm both cooling fans are running when the gauge indicates hot..correct?
On the 3 or 4 Escapes that I have fixed that had these issues, I found the water pump failed (however, I also replace the Tstat as well). It looks like a PITA but it was pretty dang easy.
Remove the air induction tube/filter and air box. Remove the battery and tray. You will find that gives plenty of access to replace the water pump. A couple notes here - the water pump bolts are small so do not over tighten them. The water pump uses a stretch fit belt. To install the belt put it on the water pump pulley and onto as much of the Cam pulley as possible. Use a zip tie to hold the belt onto the Cam pulley. Crawl under the passenger front and use a 18mm (I think) socket with a 1/2" ratchet to rotate the crank while someone watches the belt roll onto the cam pulley. Then just remove the zip tie. The Tstat is pretty much self explanatory.
Make sure to fill the coolant and run it up to temp to bleed out any air in the system and then top off the coolant. Make sure you use the proper coolant called for. There are many different types of coolant and they should never be mixed together.

I'm sure there are plenty of youtube videos available if you need them.

 

[thunderchicken]

I thought it might be heater core too, so I cranked the heat. Still overheats.

Most likely the heater core won't be the problem. Unless there was no heat when the engine was up to temp. If it was blowing out hot air at idle, I'd move on to the water pump and Tstat.

 

[AllenM]

It is possible electric fans are not be working

 

[Hoosierdood]

I've dealt with this exact complain a couple time on these Ford Escapes with 3.0 engines.
Just to verify, you did confirm both cooling fans are running when the gauge indicates hot..correct?
On the 3 or 4 Escapes that I have fixed that had these issues, I found the water pump failed (however, I also replace the Tstat as well). It looks like a PITA but it was pretty dang easy.
Remove the air induction tube/filter and air box. Remove the battery and tray. You will find that gives plenty of access to replace the water pump. A couple notes here - the water pump bolts are small so do not over tighten them. The water pump uses a stretch fit belt. To install the belt put it on the water pump pulley and onto as much of the Cam pulley as possible. Use a zip tie to hold the belt onto the Cam pulley. Crawl under the passenger front and use a 18mm (I think) socket with a 1/2" ratchet to rotate the crank while someone watches the belt roll onto the cam pulley. Then just remove the zip tie. The Tstat is pretty much self explanatory.
Make sure to fill the coolant and run it up to temp to bleed out any air in the system and then top off the coolant. Make sure you use the proper coolant called for. There are many different types of coolant and they should never be mixed together.

I'm sure there are plenty of youtube videos available if you need them.

Thank you!

 

[thunderchicken]

Thank you!

No problem