Background:
I have some steel targets in the yard that are 60 yards from the deck. I use these for quick test shots or to unwind without making a trip to the range.
If using a centerfire rifle, the smallest target at 4” (6.4 MOA) didn’t provide enough challenge. I wanted some more targets farther away that could still be shot from the deck.
I cleared a place in the woods across the pond so I could have some targets at 132 yards. A backstop is not a problem as there is a good sized hill rising immediately behind the new location. I also have a clear view of the bullet’s entire path to the target stand.
I got a discarded metal frame from my son. It had been used to hold a 2-person swing.
I wanted to hang some steel targets from the top beam of the swing frame. I needed to decide what material to use to attach the targets to the frame.
[Note: The stand was built in August of 2011. It wasn’t until November that I made the time to write this review. The trees in Brown County don’t still have their leaves!]
Bobcat Steel Targets:
All the targets I used are from INGO Advertiser Bobcat steel. They make a fine line of AR500 (abrasion resistant) steel targets.
http://bobcatsteel.com/
How to Hang the Targets?:
Here’s what the frame looked like as I started the project.
I considered hanging the targets with chain or steel cable. I was concerned that they would swing too much. I’d like the swinging to last less than 3 seconds so follow-up shots could be taken. I decided to look into using rubber straps of some sort.
Finding the Right Straps:
Attempt #1 – Mud Flaps
I started out trying strips cut from truck mud flaps. After trying to find some used flaps without success, I bought a new flap at Rural King in Martinsville.
I cut strips from the flap and drilled a mounting hole for the ½” bolt I used to attach the steel target.
The frame was moved to the yard, near the existing 60 yard targets. For testing, I set up the frame with one target and the mud flap material clamped to the cross member.
Frame in the yard.
One test target on the frame.
I shot four rounds of .223 at the steel target. I also shot 2 rounds through the strap to see how much it was damaged.
Two shots through the rubber strap:
Close-up of the exit holes:
Looks like this material could sustain many hits before it was worn out.
The steel target never wrapped up and over the target stand. That’s good. It did swing for quite a while, 15 seconds or more. That’s not good. I want much less swinging.
Possible solutions:
-- try two layers of the rubber mud flap material
-- try tire tread
-- try horse stall mat material (This idea came from INGO member ReSSurrected!)
-- try the mudflap material with a second layer of other material (sheet metal, masonite, thick plastic)
-- a more cumbersome fix would be to run a chain side-to-side under the targets by attaching it to the cross member on each side leg. Then run a bungee cord from the chain up to a hole in the rubber behind the target. This would allow the target to move when struck, but should quickly bring it back to position. The downside is more stuff hanging on the target and potentially getting hit.
Attempt #2 – Truck Tire Tread
I picked up a chunk of truck tire tread along the highway. I wanted to see if it could be cut into a workable piece. I expected it to be much more resistant to swinging. It did have lots of steel reinforcing wire in it making it hazardous to work with. I didn’t have the right tools, so I cut it with my circular saw and an older blade. You should have seen the smoke and sparks!
For testing, I mounted a 24” piece of truck tire tread on the frame. It had a definite twist. If I ended up using the tire treads, I’d try another piece to see if I can get one that is straighter.
Here’s a view showing the twist in the piece.
Here’s a closer view of the hits on the steel. Above the steel are bullet holes in the rubber.
The good aspects: It doesn’t swing much at all! I’m guessing it would be very rugged and long-lasting with all the wire in it.
The bad aspects: It has sharp wires all around the edges making it dangerous to handle. It was difficult to work with during initial fabrication. I didn’t have the right tools so I abused the tools I do have.
I realized that I’m not hearing much of a ‘ding’ from the hits on steel. The rubber is probably dampening the sound.
Attempt #3 – Horse Stall Mat
To save some money, I found a damaged mat at Tractor Supply Company. The 4’x6’ mats are very heavy; have some fiber reinforcing in them; and stink like asphalt/petroleum.
I was able to cut the mat with a carpet knife. It took many many passes with the knife to complete the cut. The mat was about ¾” thick.
Close view of bullet penetration on the stall mat.
The mat took hits just fine. Damage was minor. Unless I missed more than I hit, I figured these straps would last a good long time.
Unfortunately, a single strap of this material would swing too long for my needs. So, I layered two straps together and it firmed up the mounting considerably. I mounted one strap on the front of the cross beam and the other strap on the back. This created a ‘triangle’ when viewed from the side. That configuration really stopped the swinging.
Assembling the Target Stand:
It was time to assemble the target stand.
I bought the required hardware taking the double thickness of the straps into account.
The top beam of the stand was measured and drilled to provide six target stations.
More straps were cut out. I drilled a series of holes in each strap so in the future, I could attach any size target at whatever height I wanted. I also made a wide strap for the IPSC target since it had two mounting holes.
Initial assembly of the target stand
Rear view of the stand
In an attempt to get more of a ring from the steel targets, I mounted them with several washers to give an offset from the rubber strap. I don’t think it helped much.
Close-up showing the steel target attachment
Installing the Stand:
After in initial assembly was done, I took the six targets and straps back off for transport and re-assembly at the final location across the pond. When I cut out the opening in the woods for the stand, I also cut a walking trail access from a nearby ATV trail.
Final stand in-place
The target stand sits on sloped ground so I dug some shallow holes on the high side so the legs would fit in them and become more level. I also put two heavy concrete angle blocks on the back of the stand to keep it from falling forward as the steel pieces would swing. It has never moved since I installed it.
View from the target stand back toward the house
Using the Target Stand:
Here’s what the stand looks like from the deck. In the first picture, you can see both sets of targets.
Shooter’s view from the deck toward both sets of targets
Medium-range view of the new target stand
Costs:
I didn’t keep close track of all the costs, but here is an estimate:
Frame: Free
Steel Targets: Market price, see Bobcat Steel website
Horse Mat: $36
Hardware: about $12
Spray paint: $4
Final Comments:
I find the large diamond plate to be handy to check point of aim on initial shots. I’ve used it to fine tune my scope settings before shooting at the smaller steel targets. The picture of the stand (five pictures back) shows several shots being adjusted from the upper right more toward the center.
I do have to spray paint the targets after use. Since I’m out on the property often, it’s not too much of a chore.
The far left target position now sports a Bobcat Steel bowling pin target! With the extra holes in the straps, targets can be mixed and matched as the shooter desires.
The smallest steel targets I currently have are 4” in diameter. That’s 2.9 MOA with the new stand. So the difficulty about doubled from the closer set of targets; from 6.4 MOA to 2.9 MOA.
I never was able to get much of a ring sound out of the steel targets. However, when shooting with a scope, I can see the hits easily on the white paint.
Shooting at 132 yards isn’t a long distance for many INGO shooters, but due to the shape of my property, it’s about the farthest I can safely shoot from the deck. So, I use smaller and smaller targets to increase the challenge. Perhaps I’ll need to see if Bobcat Steel can make some 3” and 2” targets!
I have some steel targets in the yard that are 60 yards from the deck. I use these for quick test shots or to unwind without making a trip to the range.
If using a centerfire rifle, the smallest target at 4” (6.4 MOA) didn’t provide enough challenge. I wanted some more targets farther away that could still be shot from the deck.
I cleared a place in the woods across the pond so I could have some targets at 132 yards. A backstop is not a problem as there is a good sized hill rising immediately behind the new location. I also have a clear view of the bullet’s entire path to the target stand.
I got a discarded metal frame from my son. It had been used to hold a 2-person swing.
I wanted to hang some steel targets from the top beam of the swing frame. I needed to decide what material to use to attach the targets to the frame.
[Note: The stand was built in August of 2011. It wasn’t until November that I made the time to write this review. The trees in Brown County don’t still have their leaves!]
Bobcat Steel Targets:
All the targets I used are from INGO Advertiser Bobcat steel. They make a fine line of AR500 (abrasion resistant) steel targets.
http://bobcatsteel.com/
How to Hang the Targets?:
Here’s what the frame looked like as I started the project.
I considered hanging the targets with chain or steel cable. I was concerned that they would swing too much. I’d like the swinging to last less than 3 seconds so follow-up shots could be taken. I decided to look into using rubber straps of some sort.
Finding the Right Straps:
Attempt #1 – Mud Flaps
I started out trying strips cut from truck mud flaps. After trying to find some used flaps without success, I bought a new flap at Rural King in Martinsville.
I cut strips from the flap and drilled a mounting hole for the ½” bolt I used to attach the steel target.
The frame was moved to the yard, near the existing 60 yard targets. For testing, I set up the frame with one target and the mud flap material clamped to the cross member.
Frame in the yard.
One test target on the frame.
I shot four rounds of .223 at the steel target. I also shot 2 rounds through the strap to see how much it was damaged.
Two shots through the rubber strap:
Close-up of the exit holes:
Looks like this material could sustain many hits before it was worn out.
The steel target never wrapped up and over the target stand. That’s good. It did swing for quite a while, 15 seconds or more. That’s not good. I want much less swinging.
Possible solutions:
-- try two layers of the rubber mud flap material
-- try tire tread
-- try horse stall mat material (This idea came from INGO member ReSSurrected!)
-- try the mudflap material with a second layer of other material (sheet metal, masonite, thick plastic)
-- a more cumbersome fix would be to run a chain side-to-side under the targets by attaching it to the cross member on each side leg. Then run a bungee cord from the chain up to a hole in the rubber behind the target. This would allow the target to move when struck, but should quickly bring it back to position. The downside is more stuff hanging on the target and potentially getting hit.
Attempt #2 – Truck Tire Tread
I picked up a chunk of truck tire tread along the highway. I wanted to see if it could be cut into a workable piece. I expected it to be much more resistant to swinging. It did have lots of steel reinforcing wire in it making it hazardous to work with. I didn’t have the right tools, so I cut it with my circular saw and an older blade. You should have seen the smoke and sparks!
For testing, I mounted a 24” piece of truck tire tread on the frame. It had a definite twist. If I ended up using the tire treads, I’d try another piece to see if I can get one that is straighter.
Here’s a view showing the twist in the piece.
Here’s a closer view of the hits on the steel. Above the steel are bullet holes in the rubber.
The good aspects: It doesn’t swing much at all! I’m guessing it would be very rugged and long-lasting with all the wire in it.
The bad aspects: It has sharp wires all around the edges making it dangerous to handle. It was difficult to work with during initial fabrication. I didn’t have the right tools so I abused the tools I do have.
I realized that I’m not hearing much of a ‘ding’ from the hits on steel. The rubber is probably dampening the sound.
Attempt #3 – Horse Stall Mat
To save some money, I found a damaged mat at Tractor Supply Company. The 4’x6’ mats are very heavy; have some fiber reinforcing in them; and stink like asphalt/petroleum.
I was able to cut the mat with a carpet knife. It took many many passes with the knife to complete the cut. The mat was about ¾” thick.
Close view of bullet penetration on the stall mat.
The mat took hits just fine. Damage was minor. Unless I missed more than I hit, I figured these straps would last a good long time.
Unfortunately, a single strap of this material would swing too long for my needs. So, I layered two straps together and it firmed up the mounting considerably. I mounted one strap on the front of the cross beam and the other strap on the back. This created a ‘triangle’ when viewed from the side. That configuration really stopped the swinging.
Assembling the Target Stand:
It was time to assemble the target stand.
I bought the required hardware taking the double thickness of the straps into account.
The top beam of the stand was measured and drilled to provide six target stations.
More straps were cut out. I drilled a series of holes in each strap so in the future, I could attach any size target at whatever height I wanted. I also made a wide strap for the IPSC target since it had two mounting holes.
Initial assembly of the target stand
Rear view of the stand
In an attempt to get more of a ring from the steel targets, I mounted them with several washers to give an offset from the rubber strap. I don’t think it helped much.
Close-up showing the steel target attachment
Installing the Stand:
After in initial assembly was done, I took the six targets and straps back off for transport and re-assembly at the final location across the pond. When I cut out the opening in the woods for the stand, I also cut a walking trail access from a nearby ATV trail.
Final stand in-place
The target stand sits on sloped ground so I dug some shallow holes on the high side so the legs would fit in them and become more level. I also put two heavy concrete angle blocks on the back of the stand to keep it from falling forward as the steel pieces would swing. It has never moved since I installed it.
View from the target stand back toward the house
Using the Target Stand:
Here’s what the stand looks like from the deck. In the first picture, you can see both sets of targets.
Shooter’s view from the deck toward both sets of targets
Medium-range view of the new target stand
Costs:
I didn’t keep close track of all the costs, but here is an estimate:
Frame: Free
Steel Targets: Market price, see Bobcat Steel website
Horse Mat: $36
Hardware: about $12
Spray paint: $4
Final Comments:
I find the large diamond plate to be handy to check point of aim on initial shots. I’ve used it to fine tune my scope settings before shooting at the smaller steel targets. The picture of the stand (five pictures back) shows several shots being adjusted from the upper right more toward the center.
I do have to spray paint the targets after use. Since I’m out on the property often, it’s not too much of a chore.
The far left target position now sports a Bobcat Steel bowling pin target! With the extra holes in the straps, targets can be mixed and matched as the shooter desires.
The smallest steel targets I currently have are 4” in diameter. That’s 2.9 MOA with the new stand. So the difficulty about doubled from the closer set of targets; from 6.4 MOA to 2.9 MOA.
I never was able to get much of a ring sound out of the steel targets. However, when shooting with a scope, I can see the hits easily on the white paint.
Shooting at 132 yards isn’t a long distance for many INGO shooters, but due to the shape of my property, it’s about the farthest I can safely shoot from the deck. So, I use smaller and smaller targets to increase the challenge. Perhaps I’ll need to see if Bobcat Steel can make some 3” and 2” targets!
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