Bow hunters/ archers advice needed

[mike trible]

Where are you located?

 

[kickbacked]

$300 can buy a nice used bow online. Decent quality sights will save you some headache, maybe another $100 there especially if you find them used. Develop a relationship with a local pro shop and they'll help you tune out issues.

It would be silly to spend big money on an archery setup if you're just "dabbling in small game" - I guess you'd want cheap arrows too? I'm not familiar with archery hunting small game but assume it involves deflected shots, lost arrows and few harvest.

Why did you put dabbling in small game in quotations? I never said that. I said I wanted to start there and move up until im comfortable with a bow to fling an arrow at a deer. Thinning out raccoons to help turkey population, taking the ground hogs off my property, etc. Spending any money on a bow is silly when I already own all the necessary firearms and have the ability to do that with ease from my back porch. I guess dabbling is a good description though as I have no grand ideas of getting my own tv show to hunt my little 7 acre property. Unfortunately for me if you or your family lives long enough somewhere things change. When my great grandfather bought this property it was in the country, now my block and the neighbors on it are one of the last holdouts to the yuppies. Surrounded by HOA's, shopping centers and starbucks. Growing up on this land i used to shoot, hunt, have bon fires. Now the police get called if a shot rings out, Ive had the fire department called over brush fires. Now that it's mine I have to adapt to my surroundings to do the things I enjoy in the woods i grew up running bare foot through.

It agree it's silly to buy a top end bow for my purposes. But im not in the drivers seat when my girlfriend is dead set on getting me a nice bow (not the best and newest) and throwing me a party. She's getting a cake and inviting my family over too. I think thats silly as well, i dont like cake, and frankly dont much like talking to half of the family but im going to put on a smile and be appreciative.

 

[kickbacked]

Where are you located?

about 2 minutes from michigan in north west indiana.

 

[Emo66]

I’m in Valpo. If I can help at all, or you just want to shoot a few before you buy, I have a couple bows set up and ready to hunt. You are more than welcome.

 

[pappyon]

the type of release will affect your draw length ...and it could be 2 inches. I shoot a 32 inch draw. Had an archery shop for years. dont rush into it...and yes shoot before buying

 

[yote hunter]

I didn’t read all the post but any good archery shop has a “arrow” with measurement on it to see what your true draw length is .
Not just by looking at you ! Geezzz
Then go from there.
And the post above is true as well , so take that into account & if your going to use a D loop on your string when measuring your draw length.

 

[natdscott]

Thank you for any insight you can give.

I mean. I have a 2009? Hoyt Vectrix XL. Probably 500 arrows or fewer through it; for a guy that used to shoot 50+ arrows a night, that's a little embarrassing.

I'd entertain selling it. I shot a PSE Nova heavily through high school, some 3D, some field, several deer, more split arrows than Dad wanted. Dad was rumored to be pretty damn good with a recurve from the 60's onward, and picked up compounds at about the earliest stage. He started shooting with me at age 5 in the backyard, and I dropped off shooting in...about 2009. (see the trend here?)

Shooting a bow at an expert level is, like many things, all about shooting a lot of arrows well.

I surely didn't get on here to sell a bow today, but the Hoyt's a helluva piece, and would only need a string, maybe a newer (faster) rest (mine is a RipCord), and some arrows.

Being that I do not arrow hunt deer anymore, and haven't picked it up in over 5 years, it's probably time to let it go.

Talk with the guys around here, and let me know if you want to chat about it.

 

[kickbacked]

I didn’t read all the post but any good archery shop has a “arrow” with measurement on it to see what your true draw length is .
Not just by looking at you ! Geezzz
Then go from there.
And the post above is true as well , so take that into account & if your going to use a D loop on your string when measuring your draw length.

Should i purchase a release before purchasing a bow and then use it when testing? I want to use a release with a d loop. I imagine just like firearm triggers theres good and bad ones.

I was supposed to drive up to another shop this week but tweaked my back and have been getting by with 3 icy hot patches. I imagine going in with a back injury is probably a terrible idea to test bows.

 

[Leadeye]

While it's sacrilege to some and that's OK, a used Exocet crossbow, like the one I've hunted with since the 90s will work regardless of arm length and they are deadly accurate.

 

[patience0830]

Mathews has a great resell value

In my experience, darned few bows have anywhere near their original price for resale. After a year, the values are generally 1/2 or less. Start with a yard sale/pawn shop/eBay bow. Spend a few bucks at the pro shop getting it tuned and set up. If you want to, or can easily afford to spend $1000-$1500 on a bow, go for it. But don't expect to sell it next year for anywhere close to that money. Cheap bows will kill deer just fine. I've had my Mathews for 20+ years (SQ2 and $550 new) and it still works fine. I've replaced the string once. But resale value is about $10.

 

[patience0830]

Should i purchase a release before purchasing a bow and then use it when testing? I want to use a release with a d loop. I imagine just like firearm triggers theres good and bad ones.

I was supposed to drive up to another shop this week but tweaked my back and have been getting by with 3 icy hot patches. I imagine going in with a back injury is probably a terrible idea to test bows.

Back muscles have a lot to do when you're pulling a bow. I'd heal up first.
I've used Scott releases for hunting for years. The kind with a strap and an index finger style trigger. They've been reliable and once they are on your wrist, they are hard to drop. Several good names out there and styles will vary. Ask to try several and see what feels good to you.

 

[yote hunter]

I agree with the post above , wait and heal up .
To your question ? The bow shop should have releases you can buy or try out to set your bow up .
Most will be about the same & adjustable to your wrist. (Velcro or buckle ) I have one I keep in my back pack as a extra for just in case.
They do make tension releases but I personally don’t care for them and may be a little different for your draw ?
Get on Facebook market place & look around or as said before yard sales or ebay whatever suits you. ?
I too shoot a old Mathew’s older “Q2 “ & agreed it don’t have much value in resale , but it has killed a bunch of deer and I can’t justify buying a high $$ bow to replace it for no other reason but to have a new bow.
It works fine .

 

[Nazgul]

Now archery seems to be limited to compound bows. I had a decent one once and shot it some, sold it when I no longer used it. Growing up my father would take us to a local park and we shot bows for fun. This was long before compounds were available so they were traditional longbows.

I shoot a 55 lb Martin longbow and a 95 lb Hill. Bought the Martin at a going out of business sale and the Hill from an individual on a forum. I draw 30". I make my own arrows from ash, just for fun. This is all informal/fun shooting to keep in shape. Approaching 70 and I can fire 10 or so shots at 90 lbs still, really need to shoot more often. Have not felt I had the skill to take a deer with them.

My point is don't discount traditional bows to start and have some fun. Not as much gear is needed so entry to the hobby is less.

Enjoy.

Don

 

[Nazgul]

I would add it is fun to bring out the Hill when friends are around. There is definitely a technique and learning curve to shoot it. Few can pull/shoot it, even big guys without a little coaching. Sort of humbles the big mouths.

Don

 

[Hookeye]

Todays mid level compounds are pretty darn good. Proly better than the top models a few yrs back.

Have a Hoyt Torrex, not their top end. Was purchased to be backup rig if I couldnt use my recurve. Think the bow was $600 bare. 400 more (not counting arrows) to set up (including release). A grand and it shoots fine. Be lucky to sell it for 500, 1 yr old, like new.

Yeah great investment LOL

But living life costs money and if you get out and have fun, see deer, maybe even shoot one......maybe even a good buck..............how much was that worth?

If not going to compete, just going to hunt, I think a mid level bow to be ideal. Can afford to shoot whatever I want, and have shot top end for decades.

Deer don't care how much your bow cost.

That being said, my recurve cost over a grand, bare bow (had a new Blackwidow built last yr). But I know from experience and previous ownership thats what I wanted. Id have been happy to have one built for 500 bucks LOL, but they aint been that cheap since 1990.

Like others have said, todays bows, the majority are shorter axle to axle and thats better for shorter draw folks. There are lesser models available for the longer draw guys.

My last hunting/target rig was a 37" axle to axle Hoyt (2005 Protec) and it was expensive. Proly best compound I ever had. But it was heavy and kinda sucked in the field. My Mathews after that was lighter, but the "wall" wasn't as solid and the feel just not the same (even w 65% cam).
Both bows were 65% for old Pope and Young legality, but the draw cycle of the Hoyt felt way better to me.

I prefer the older 65% letoff stuff, and more conventional draw cycles, a little give at the start.

Todays bows are more efficient in cam design. But dang if a 60# hot rod doesn't hurt me to draw it. But a 70# old 2005 model Hoyt doesn't. Maybe what ya get used to, maybe just getting old. I dunno, todays bows aren't as comfy in some respects.

Draw cycle and GRIP. Those the biggies IMHO. Liked the Hoyt Profit in medium on compounds.
The Mathews grips used to suck so I had to spend 60 bucks I think for a Torqueless wood grip.

Picked up an old 80s era PSE, like the one I used to win 3D shoots with. Nostalgia
This was maybe last yr or so, somebody brought one to the shop. Cool I thought.
Then I held it.

How in the heck did we shoot such garbage?

 

[Hookeye]

Old bows may cost a pretty penny to be restrung. Think the old 3 pc cable/string system for Hoyts is 100 bucks now. So if I found a Ultratec, 2005 model, in Safari finish, w 65% cams (yes I have looked for a while).............Id still need to dump 100 bucks to make it shootable. Assuming the limbs and everything are perfect.

Crack a limb? How much is a replacement, does the manufacturer even have replacement parts for a bow that old? Then what shop is going to do the work, and how much will that cost?

Used market is not without risk.

 

[Hookeye]

I love recurves, and Blackwidows a fave. Spendy.
Had my last one built.
Dunno how much longer I can shoot any bow, let alone recurve.

The Blackwidow by most accounts, is a top end bow.

Got the Hoyt compound as back up. Its a Torrex, their lower end bow. Maybe even called an entry level. Doesn't bother me one bit that its not a top end model. Is it perfect? Nope.
Its darn good for the money IMHO.

Think its a cast and then machined riser, not billet. Prefer billet but this isn't bulky for a cast riser, so entirely doable. The grip isn't too big (which was an issue with previous cast riser bows). Most folks wouldn't know its a cast riser, its that well done in design.

The limb pockets are plastic, not machined aluminum. That the only "meh" thing about it. They don't look bad (dont care for the Bear compound limb pockets- look funky).

Good enough IMHO.

Yeah, I still think about a G rex custom cam lever bow for $1200 bucks. But thats old technology, silky smooth draw, unlike anything else (cam lever bows). Speed aint gonna be great, run heavier spine due to overtravel. Limb slap noise. There are shortcomings to that design. But then there is that silky smooth draw and "at the shot" feel.....the first of parallel bows kinda sorta.

1200 for a bare bow, not a hot rod and lots of crap to go wrong. Complicated design compared to a reg compound.

My $600 Hoyt proly hang with it, or beat it performance alone. Let alone on dollar. And proly less maintenance and better durability.

Its all what you want and like. And starting out .one hasn't determined a preference. Finding what you like means experience and that costs money. In archery, it aint cheap.

BUT...............you can go to a pro shop and try a couple diff brands/models and maybe get an idea of what you like.

A lot of people keep searching for the perfect bow. Its an expensive quest.
Some folks buy a bow, like it and are happy with it the next 20 yrs.
Just never know.

Definitely try before you buy.

Proshops have demo bows, but maybe not , if your draw length on the long side.
Some folks have offered to let you try their gear on this thread.
That is awesome!

Archery seems complicated, esp starting out.
Its easy to get sidetracked.
If you can try some stuff out before you buy, you can have a more informed purchase and should have a smoother and more enjoyable entry into the sport.

 

[Hookeye]

I would add it is fun to bring out the Hill when friends are around. There is definitely a technique and learning curve to shoot it. Few can pull/shoot it, even big guys without a little coaching. Sort of humbles the big mouths.

Don

Highest trad bow # I shot was 72#. A Zipper recurve, for an afternoon indoors. I slept well when I got home LOL Proshop did have a Hill longbow at 81# on consignment. Guys laughed and I drew it a few times, held at anchor. They quit laughing. Esp when I switched and drew and held it left handed.

Im kinda scrawny.

My 3D bow back in the late 80s was a Gorilla Squad PSE that'd bottom out at 96#. Twin cam, my left elbow would bend at 96#, unable to draw. 92# I could, but shot it at 86# for a while ... ultimately dropped to 82# and left it there for a couple yrs. Shot w Fletchunter wrist release. Still my favorite release type ( currently have a last version, 3 D shorty model). Fletcher doesn't make em anymore, Buckrub archery bought the rights, think $125 new FWIW.

Now pushing 60 yrs old, having shot 70-80# bows for a couple decades......I dunno how much wear and tear Ive done. Heavy bows did cause my spine to bend, overuse deal kinda sorta. Chiro swore I was left handed, framed houses or something. Told him nope, lab job, right handed....but I shoot 80 pound bows LOL

Had some middle back issues from that, still not perfect, maybe arthritis. Problematic but tolerable, since I don't shoot heavy # anymore.

My short 28" draw w release meant I had to run that high to keep up w the longer draw 70# guys outdoors. Just the way it is. Back then IIRC IBO was to 60 yards.
Now Hunter class is to 35, bowhunter unlimited to 45 yds. Its all about that little quarter sized ring in the kill zone now. Like indoors, its all about X count.

My eyes went to crap, cant see the X in a blue face indoors, no way Id see the little ring outdoors on a 3d target. My competing, even at local fun level...........is way over.

 

[OurDee]

I went down the rabbit hole once. I bought a 2010 PSE Bow Madness. Shot winter indoor and summer outdoor legues with it. Best 20 yard indoor score was a 300 - 56X. It was a 60 lb bow when I bought it. I switched to 50 pound limbs and ran it at 45 pounds.

 

[Hookeye]

I went down the rabbit hole once. I bought a 2010 PSE Bow Madness. Shot winter indoor and summer outdoor legues with it. Best 20 yard indoor score was a 300 - 56X. It was a 60 lb bow when I bought it. I switched to 50 pound limbs and ran it at 45 pounds.

Good shooting !

I NEVER shot a 300 indoors. Best was a 297 w 31 x.

But that was at 82# w an overdraw and shooting single spot. Shoulda been 300 but had deflect outs.

Back then a kisser and peep put me in open indoors, against the full fancy rigs......the 300 -60x guys.

I only shot indoors to practice form for 3d outdoors.

When i got hurt and had to give up recurve for a while, got that Hoyt in 2005. Injuries made me shoot 270. Then it got so bad i couldnt even shoot 30 arrows. Total.

Bailed for about 5 yrs and the layout helped straighten spine enough to pop a rib ( prev broken and healed ) which unpinched a nerve. That hurt like hell but my shoulder quit aching, immediately.

Havent shot an indoor round since.

My Torrex is only 58#. Wonder how bad id shoot if i went to the club LOL