Bow hunters/ archers advice needed

[kickbacked]

I went to two different shops today to look at getting into bow hunting. I mostly want to hunt small game around my woods but plan to eventually get where I’m comfortable with a bow to go after whitetail. I haven’t shot a bow since elementary school when I had a child sized compound. I’ve kicked this idea around for a few years but never pulled the trigger. So I went to 2 shops, I tell them what I’m looking for, my goals, that I don’t know weight or draw length. First store looked me up and down and said im probably a 31". They said that eliminated a majority of bows for me and that they had 2 bows in the shop that could be set to 31. Both of them bare were $1500, which is way out of the price range im looking for. I want to be below 1k out the door with at least most of the bells and whistles even if they arent the best sight, rest, etc. I dont want to buy a used bow because i have no idea what im looking at, whats good, etc. Im ok buying new, having a store set it up, build up a good relationship with the shop until I understand the basics. I guess i was expecting a little more from a completely empty store, to shoot a bow, to hold a bow or even just to measure my arms or something. I was told that if i get a bow with a 30" draw and not a 31" it can seriously screw up my shoulder.

So i walked out a little defeated. The guys in shop #1 were nice and I enjoyed talking to them but hearing for me to get into bow hunting i need to drop that much change with only 2 different choices and then buy all the goodies put me off a little. Plus im 6' 2", im not some an nba player, there has to be more options. So i went to shop #2 I told them what i had been told at the other store. I was told there that depending on what bow i picked out my draw length can be different and the guy I was talking to had personal bows of all different draw lengths. The prices were more in line with what i expected 600-900 fully kitted out. But he was talking way over my head about all the different specs on the bow that i know nothing about. I still didnt get to hold a bow. I still dont know my draw length. I did get a coupon for $100 off which is nice and a lot of advice but the bow shown off to me the most was from a Michigan company that i had never heard of which doesnt mean a lot but Id rather get a brand that has some history behind it and parts are more accessible.

So im hoping for some advice here on brands you guys like and your experiences. If 31" is my draw length is it really that limited of options for me? I dont want a bow to grow on, shop #2 recommended I not get one of those even though resale is easier as well. Everywhere I look people say you need to shoot the bows before making a purchase but I cant seem to even get my hands on one. I plan on going up to a place in michigan that offers a lot more brands, so we'll see where that goes. But can you really judge a draw length based on looks? I asked to be measured for my draw length but was told I needed to pick out a bow first, knowing nothing I cant pick out a bow and say this is the one, I can tell you what color I like but thats about it. Is there any questions i should be asking or things that I should be looking for? Sorry for the long post, its been a long day. Thank you for any insight you can give.

 

[Ruger_Ronin]

Best advice I can give is don't be prey to a good sale. You can spend $500+ easy on a bare setup. I've also picked up a decent looking bow at a pawn shop for $60, had it restrung at my local shop, and used it successfully afield. Food for thought.

I'm 6'2, 190 and float in the 30.5" or 29" range. It depends on how I have the bow setup. 1 for finger draw, 1 for a trigger release (respectively).

Don't get a bow with every Cadillac dream that is made for target shooting (if you plan to hunt). Anything accurate for such over 60yards requires a hone that will take years to develop. I've seen men take amazing whitetail with what looked like a rattle-canned novelty bow. Actually my father painted every frame he ever had in OD stripes.

As much (or more to me) of this all goes into the arrow selection as well. Length, weight, fletching. I absolutely love fletching my own arrows. I grew up cutting aluminum shafts and gluing turkey feathers. You will enjoy this part of it as well.

There is a nice place in southern portion of state (Seymour area) with a bow shop and indoor range; Accuracy Unlimited. There is also a nice outdoor range (free/public) at the Jackson-Washington state Forest.

Happy hunting!

 

[Ruger_Ronin]

Pics for reference. Top: Diamond Archery by Bowtech, Bottom: Hoyt Rebel XT (pawn shop/restrung)

 

[wingrider1800]

If you were closer, you could try some of mine. I wouldn't spend the big bucks on a first bow. However, I am a tight ass.

 

[patience0830]

First bow? Definitely hit a bunch of yard sales and pawn shops. Look for used Mathews/Hoyt/Diamond/Bear bows. Decide if you plan to use a release and have your draw length measured. Your draw length will depend very little on the bow and a lot on release type and where you intend to anchor your draw. Many adult sized bows are adjustable/tunable for different draw lengths. Carry whatever release you plan to use when you go shopping. Draw the candidate bow and see if it feels right at your anchor point. Join an archery forum and ask questions. Good luck

 

[Hoosier Carry]

Curious to know what bare bow for 1500 they were trying to sell you. That sounds like a Mathews or a carbon to me. Boy they didn’t take any time going after your money. You need to learn the basics of what a bow has to offer. Draw length is very important for you personally but after that it comes down to what your preference is in how a bow performs which only you can figure out over time. Being led to buy one of the most expensive bows on the market for some learning years is just plain poor advice.

Buy a used bow for 4-500 dollars and practice. This is what everyone originally has to go through to start to learn what they like in a bow.
If brand new is what you want take a look at Mission. They are a Mathews owned company with a more reasonable price point and a great higher lever entry bow.
Athens- is a great company making great bows and their used market is very well priced.
Mathews has a great resell value and their older models would be a perfect fit(halon,traverse, triax, maybe even the no cam)
Find your draw length ( wingspan divided by 2 1/2) and find something that you feel comfortable with and go at it.

 

[two70]

I went to two different shops today to look at getting into bow hunting. I mostly want to hunt small game around my woods but plan to eventually get where I’m comfortable with a bow to go after whitetail. I haven’t shot a bow since elementary school when I had a child sized compound. I’ve kicked this idea around for a few years but never pulled the trigger. So I went to 2 shops, I tell them what I’m looking for, my goals, that I don’t know weight or draw length. First store looked me up and down and said im probably a 31". They said that eliminated a majority of bows for me and that they had 2 bows in the shop that could be set to 31. Both of them bare were $1500, which is way out of the price range im looking for. I want to be below 1k out the door with at least most of the bells and whistles even if they arent the best sight, rest, etc. I dont want to buy a used bow because i have no idea what im looking at, whats good, etc. Im ok buying new, having a store set it up, build up a good relationship with the shop until I understand the basics. I guess i was expecting a little more from a completely empty store, to shoot a bow, to hold a bow or even just to measure my arms or something. I was told that if i get a bow with a 30" draw and not a 31" it can seriously screw up my shoulder.

So i walked out a little defeated. The guys in shop #1 were nice and I enjoyed talking to them but hearing for me to get into bow hunting i need to drop that much change with only 2 different choices and then buy all the goodies put me off a little. Plus im 6' 2", im not some an nba player, there has to be more options. So i went to shop #2 I told them what i had been told at the other store. I was told there that depending on what bow i picked out my draw length can be different and the guy I was talking to had personal bows of all different draw lengths. The prices were more in line with what i expected 600-900 fully kitted out. But he was talking way over my head about all the different specs on the bow that i know nothing about. I still didnt get to hold a bow. I still dont know my draw length. I did get a coupon for $100 off which is nice and a lot of advice but the bow shown off to me the most was from a Michigan company that i had never heard of which doesnt mean a lot but Id rather get a brand that has some history behind it and parts are more accessible.

So im hoping for some advice here on brands you guys like and your experiences. If 31" is my draw length is it really that limited of options for me? I dont want a bow to grow on, shop #2 recommended I not get one of those even though resale is easier as well. Everywhere I look people say you need to shoot the bows before making a purchase but I cant seem to even get my hands on one. I plan on going up to a place in michigan that offers a lot more brands, so we'll see where that goes. But can you really judge a draw length based on looks? I asked to be measured for my draw length but was told I needed to pick out a bow first, knowing nothing I cant pick out a bow and say this is the one, I can tell you what color I like but thats about it. Is there any questions i should be asking or things that I should be looking for? Sorry for the long post, its been a long day. Thank you for any insight you can give.

IMO, avoid the first shop like the plague. They either have no clue or are outright lying to you for a sale. While you don't want a bow with a draw length well short of your natural draw length, it won't physically harm you to shoot a short bow. If it is too short it can hinder your ability to learn to shoot your best. If you are a 31" draw (that is probably in the ballpark given your height), a 30" bow is probably too short but 30.5" should be fine. I have a 31" draw by measure myself and preferred a 30.5" draw bow.
You don't want to shoot with your bow arm locked completely straight anyway.

You really need to decide what style you want to shoot before anything else because it will change your draw length and the type of bow you want. For small game hunting, a finger release will be much faster but a mechanical release is much more accurate and what most archers use for big game. If you're going to shoot fingers, then you're going to want an longer axle to axle bow to avoid pinching your fingers on the knock when you shoot. This limits your options to a few new bow models and some really old ones. Most bows are built for a mechanical release with really short axle to axle lengths. Naturally, it is harder to find longer draw lengths on shorter bows.

 

[duanewade]

Find your draw length here.

How To Measure Draw Length (With Calculator) - Archery for Beginners

Knowing how to measure draw length is a basic, yet crucial part of archery. Here, we break down 5 different ways to measure and determine your draw length.

archeryforbeginners.com

Then as others have stated check on Craigslist, FB market place, pawn shops and garage sales. I prefer trigger release and peep sights/pins for shooting my compound. If you find one, get a friend that shoots bow show you the ins n outs and decide what methods and equipment you want to use.

@kickedback I don't see where you are from in your profile. I live near Fort Wayne, if you're not far I'd be willing to show you what I've got and let you shoot. I'm no expert but have shooting for a while.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[econnell]

I would suggest visiting a true archery shop like bass and bucks in wabash, or eBay there are some older compounds like a matthews switchback you can find for $300 and a top shooter, spend $40 on a cam and change the draw length with a new set of strings is what I suggest.

Don’t let someone assume your draw length, your height and width plays into the equation. Just me 2pennies….but I shoot a longbow

 

[hotcupofbro]

Wow - sounds like you are having some bad luck with your shops. Do what the guy above said and make the trip to Bass and Bucks. The archery shop is in the back of the building. They are, in my opinion, the best archery shop in Indiana. The bow techs are friendly to boot too.

These guys are the real deal. They will measure you, baby you, and walk you through the entire bow setup process from bow choice to accessory install. They have used bows, new bows, and every accessory you could imagine. Theyll set you up and set your preferred draw weight and they should have more than a couple you can test shoot in there. If you finda bow and setup package in your price range then you can spend the rest of the day practicing in their indoor range.

I am positive if you roll in there and say "my budget is $XXX for a fully setup bow" they will be able to get you into something that works well for you.

 

[kickbacked]

Curious to know what bare bow for 1500 they were trying to sell you. That sounds like a Mathews or a carbon to me. Boy they didn’t take any time going after your money. You need to learn the basics of what a bow has to offer. Draw length is very important for you personally but after that it comes down to what your preference is in how a bow performs which only you can figure out over time. Being led to buy one of the most expensive bows on the market for some learning years is just plain poor advice.

Buy a used bow for 4-500 dollars and practice. This is what everyone originally has to go through to start to learn what they like in a bow.
If brand new is what you want take a look at Mission. They are a Mathews owned company with a more reasonable price point and a great higher lever entry bow.
Athens- is a great company making great bows and their used market is very well priced.
Mathews has a great resell value and their older models would be a perfect fit(halon,traverse, triax, maybe even the no cam)
Find your draw length ( wingspan divided by 2 1/2) and find something that you feel comfortable with and go at it.

I took down the names of the bows to research. Shop 1 suggested the hoyt highline and mathews atlas. To their credit they did say they had a used one for sale. Shop number 2 was pushing a quest centec. Im by no means an archery expert but ive just never heard of them, doesnt mean a lot i guess. Maybe its an outstanding company but as an outsider I hear a lot of pse, hoyt, mathews, bear, bowtech.

I should add for everyone with suggestions about the used route, this is going to be a birthday gift from my girlfriend. If it were me, id probably buy something under 500 online with good reviews have it setup and figure everything out on my property. But much to my protest, this has to be a big birthday celebration with pictures and videos to put on social media for people i dont know to see. a parking lot transaction just doesnt work for her. Ive told her multiple times even over $500 is way too much, and I dont want her to spend money on me at all. Ive gone many years not celebrating my birthday. I dont think its that big of a deal, but apparently I am wrong. She's also been talking about "us" going hunting together, today she sent me a map of local public lands for us to explore. So anyway this is a really big day for her me .

 

[Hoosier Carry]

I took down the names of the bows to research. Shop 1 suggested the hoyt highline and mathews atlas. To their credit they did say they had a used one for sale. Shop number 2 was pushing a quest centec. Im by no means an archery expert but ive just never heard of them, doesnt mean a lot i guess. Maybe its an outstanding company but as an outsider I hear a lot of pse, hoyt, mathews, bear, bowtech.

I should add for everyone with suggestions about the used route, this is going to be a birthday gift from my girlfriend. If it were me, id probably buy something under 500 online with good reviews have it setup and figure everything out on my property. But much to my protest, this has to be a big birthday celebration with pictures and videos to put on social media for people i dont know to see. a parking lot transaction just doesnt work for her. Ive told her multiple times even over $500 is way too much, and I dont want her to spend money on me at all. Ive gone many years not celebrating my birthday. I dont think its that big of a deal, but apparently I am wrong. She's also been talking about "us" going hunting together, today she sent me a map of local public lands for us to explore. So anyway this is a really big day for her me .

If that’s the case, then you will end up with a great bow no matter which brand you go with. Those you listed are pretty much the top of the crop. You will over time figure out the more technical parts on shooting and dialing in a bow to you liking.
I would suggest looking up the proper grip on the bow and getting that position squared away right off the bat. You’ll shoot a lot more accurately by learning proper grip of the bow.

 

[duanewade]

I would suggest looking up the proper grip on the bow and getting that position squared away right off the bat. You’ll shoot a lot more accurately by learning proper grip of the bow.

+1 on this advise. I used to grip it hard and learned about 10 years not to do that. Once I learned the corect way I can hit what I want out to 40-50 yards without to much worry. My boss at the time shot competition and she showed the right way.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[kickbacked]

If that’s the case, then you will end up with a great bow no matter which brand you go with. Those you listed are pretty much the top of the crop. You will over time figure out the more technical parts on shooting and dialing in a bow to you liking.
I would suggest looking up the proper grip on the bow and getting that position squared away right off the bat. You’ll shoot a lot more accurately by learning proper grip of the bow.

I’m not going to get those bows, at least the atlas/high line. That’s way too much for someone to gift me. I feel wrong about even $500 and offered to pay half but was quickly told no. Ideally I’d like to be in the 500-800 range fully setup. Still trying to convince her to let me pay for at least half. I’ll start watching videos on YouTube about grip so I can have some better understanding. I’ve been watching a lot of budget build videos lately.

 

[kickbacked]

Also she measured my wing span at 75 so that works out to 30” using what you guys have said. So maybe I won’t need 31 after all unless it’s not recommended to max out a bows draw length?

 

[Hoosier Carry]

By P.J. Reilly
A good bow shot starts with a proper foundation at the grip.
When building a house, the most important part of the project is making sure the foundation is level and straight. If the foundation is off, everything you put on top also is going to be askew, and that can lead to a lifetime of problems.
The way you grip your bow is the foundation of a good shot. If your hand isn’t situated properly, it’s going to have a ripple effect that could cause you to miss the buck of a lifetime or, even worse, to wound it.
The most common problem created by poor hand position on the grip is bow torque, says Rob Kaufhold. Kaufhold is a former U.S. Olympic Team archer, current coach to archers at all levels of the game and owner of Lancaster Archery Supply in Pennsylvania.
“The most common cause of shots left of center for right-handed shooters and right of center for left-handed shooters is bow torque,” Kaufhold said. “And if you’re torquing the bow, it’s because your hand isn’t positioned correctly on the grip.”
Hand torque occurs when you exert pressure on the bow’s riser at the grip. That pressure twists the bow when you release the string, which causes the arrow to hit left or right of center.
“If you don’t eliminate hand torque, you’re never going to be 100 percent confident in your shooting, because you’re constantly going to kick arrows to the left or right,” Kaufhold said.
PROPER HAND POSITION
Kaufhold likes to tell his students to hold out their bow arm and make the letter V with their index finger and thumb.
“Don’t make an L,” he said. “It has to be a V.”
The bow should sit in that V, with the lifeline on a right-handed shooter’s palm lined up with the left edge of the bow grip. It’s vice versa for lefties.
“Think of the area of your palm inside the lifeline like it’s the meaty part of a drumstick on a chicken,” he said. “You want the bow to sit in the middle of that drumstick.”
Low in that meaty area is a pressure point martial artists are quite familiar with. You can find it easily by poking your finger around until you hit a spot that is extremely tender.
“It’s in what I call the heel of your palm,” Kaufhold said. “It’s a lot lower than most people think.”
Your bow grip should rest right on top of that spot.
“It’s a neutral point of your hand,” Kaufhold said. “That means if the bow is sitting on top of it, you’re not going to be able to torque it. Don’t put the grip in the webbing between your thumb and index finger. That’s a common mistake.”
All of your fingers should be relaxed when the bow is sitting on the heel of your palm. Never wrap them around the bow and squeeze.
If your hand is in the right position, you should be able to bend your elbow so that your forearm comes across your chest. If your elbow bends straight up, then your bow hand is tilted like you are gripping a handgun, which is incorrect.
Bowhunters commonly grip their bow like it’s a pistol, Kaufhold said. When they do, they torque the bow, and the bowstring usually whacks them in the forearm.
“If you have the pistol grip, the bottom of your elbow sticks out into the path of the bowstring,” he said. “Rotate your hand so you make the V with your index finger and thumb and you’ll notice that your elbow rotates out of the way and you gain a good two inches of string clearance.
“One hundred percent of the time when the string hits a shooter’s forearm, improper hand position is at least part of the problem,” Kaufhold said.
Proper hand placement for right-handed shooters leads to the index finger knuckle resting against the bow shelf, while the pinky knuckle is several inches to the left and slightly lower. To achieve this position, you might have to loosen your wrist strap.
“Since a lot of shooters grip the bow like it’s a handgun, their slings are a lot tighter than they need to be to get their hand in the correct position,” Kaufhold said. “Loosen that sling so you can rotate your pinky knuckle away from the riser.”
A simple check to determine if your hand position is correct is to sight in all of your pins, then hold the bow in your hand and look at the string from behind. Make sure the string aligns perfectly with the center of your rest. For right-handed shooters, all of your pins should sit just on the left edge of the bowstring. If they stick far out to the left, you’re probably torquing your bow when you shoot.

 

[two70]

I took down the names of the bows to research. Shop 1 suggested the hoyt highline and mathews atlas. To their credit they did say they had a used one for sale. Shop number 2 was pushing a quest centec. Im by no means an archery expert but ive just never heard of them, doesnt mean a lot i guess. Maybe its an outstanding company but as an outsider I hear a lot of pse, hoyt, mathews, bear, bowtech.

I should add for everyone with suggestions about the used route, this is going to be a birthday gift from my girlfriend. If it were me, id probably buy something under 500 online with good reviews have it setup and figure everything out on my property. But much to my protest, this has to be a big birthday celebration with pictures and videos to put on social media for people i dont know to see. a parking lot transaction just doesnt work for her. Ive told her multiple times even over $500 is way too much, and I dont want her to spend money on me at all. Ive gone many years not celebrating my birthday. I dont think its that big of a deal, but apparently I am wrong. She's also been talking about "us" going hunting together, today she sent me a map of local public lands for us to explore. So anyway this is a really big day for her me .

FYI, although used would save some money, now is an excellent time to by previous year's models since hunting season is over. Midway and Cabelas will likely have big sales on last year's models and you can often find even older but still new bows on Ebay for good prices.

 

[Emo66]

Do yourself a big favor and spend a little time kicking around archerytalk.com. It’s a lot like here. Archers helping archers (or newbies). And I have been an archer for thirty years and have never bought the current model year bow. Always a year or two (or 10) after release. My stable of bows are 23 years old, 13 years old, and 8 years old, all kill deer.

 

[FredMcIntire]

I highly recommend Lonesome Elk Archery in Terre Haute. (812) 466-2391. They are super nice people, have excellent customer service, and are very reasonably priced.

https://goo.gl/maps/3K2zLaBMB4fFvbAr8

 

[Ward250]

$300 can buy a nice used bow online. Decent quality sights will save you some headache, maybe another $100 there especially if you find them used. Develop a relationship with a local pro shop and they'll help you tune out issues.

It would be silly to spend big money on an archery setup if you're just "dabbling in small game" - I guess you'd want cheap arrows too? I'm not familiar with archery hunting small game but assume it involves deflected shots, lost arrows and few harvest.