Ar's -which parts fail and why

[firehawk1]

Ok my AR bug is getting worse.

I bought a DPMS and I realize it is not a top of the line AR. Which parts are prone to failure on an AR, and what replacement parts can be installed to prevent these failures?

Another question, what is the purpose of a tungsten buffer? What purpose does a heavier buffer serve? Is it necessary?

I guess I'm looking for input on what is done to make an AR as reliable as possible. What manufacturer's do you all recommend?

I'm getting sicker by the day!

 

[redpitbull44]

Well, for one thing, they are prone to extractor failure. If that happens, you are looking at essentially having a magazine fed single shot muzzle loader. This has happened in combat a lot.

As far as best quality, I REALLY like POF-USA Patriot Ordnance Factory, Inc..

The Direct Gas Inpingment guns (standard design with gas tube) get dirty inside of the receiver more quickly, which is said to cause failure. I don't know that for a fact.

The gas key screws can come loose and cause the rifle to malf.

 

[loony1]

I found this informative
What Parts Break in a Carbine Course? - AR15.COM

 

[LPMan59]

i would just shoot the hell out of it and find out what (if anything) fails

 

[shooter521]

Which parts are prone to failure on an AR

I wouldn't say any parts are "prone to failure," but parts occasionally do fail for a variety of reasons. I have seen hammer/trigger pins break, extractors chip or become dull, various springs wear out, gas rings shred, and bolts shear lugs and crack at the cam pin hole. Most of these failures are due to either improper QC to begin with, natural wear (especially under harsh use over a relatively short period of time), or some combination of the two.

what replacement parts can be installed to prevent these failures?

I wouldn't worry about preventing the failures above; just use good parts to start with, and establish a regular inspection and preventative maintenance routine (keep a shooting log; replace springs and other known wear parts at proper intervals)

Another question, what is the purpose of a tungsten buffer?

Most of your heavier carbine buffers include one or more tungsten segments for additional weight. I am not aware of any all-tungsten buffers.

What purpose does a heavier buffer serve? Is it necessary?

For most carbines it is not necessary, but changing to a heavier buffer can improve reliability, slightly reduce recoil, and extend parts life. Conventional wisdom says to use the heaviest buffer that will allow the gun to cycle 100% in all positions (upright, ejection port up, ejection port down, and upside-down) with the weakest ammo you are likely to shoot (for most of us, that would be Wolf).

For me, that is a 9mm buffer in my carbine-length gas systems, and an H or H2 buffer in my mid-lengths.

HTH!

 

[sloughfoot]

I am curious as to how you have concluded that a DPMS is not a top of the line AR?

I will bet that you will shoot thousands and thousands of rounds through your rifle before you have a failure of any kind.

 

[firehawk1]

I am curious as to how you have concluded that a DPMS is not a top of the line AR?

Simply from what I have read about AR's. I admit I have no real experience. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with it as far as fit/finish. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet though. Kind of hard with no sights since it's a flat top. I'm waiting for Midway or somebody to get a set of Yankee Hill flip up sights in stock.

Since I am a noobie as far as AR's are concerned, I was wanting to know what actually fails on these rifles WHEN they have failures. And which "brands" of parts are the best. For instance, bolts, bolt carriers, extractors, etc... I see bolt carriers that are chrome, ION finished, TiN plated, etc... which are best, and why.

 

[shooter521]

I was wanting to know ... which "brands" of parts are the best.

"Best" in what respect? My is to just stick with mil-spec parts as much as possible. They may not be the cutting edge of technology or ideally suited for a specific niche application, but they will ensure a basic level of quality and durability. Avoid using gun show "parts bin" parts with no identifiable pedigree in an attempt to save a buck; this is false economy and will inevitably come back later to bite you in the butt.

 

[firehawk1]

"Best" in what respect? My is to just stick with mil-spec parts as much as possible. They may not be the cutting edge of technology or ideally suited for a specific niche application, but they will ensure a basic level of quality and durability. Avoid using gun show "parts bin" parts with no identifiable pedigree in an attempt to save a buck; this is false economy and will inevitably come back later to bite you in the butt.

Best in regards to durability. I have no idea what "brand" of parts are the most durable since I am new to this.

 

[Litlratt]

Having put approximately 150,000 rounds through ARs, my experience has been that there aren't any parts prone to failure.

Gas rings and barrels wear out most often. I've broken just about everything there is to break, but I don't think it was a result of an inherent flaw in the rifle and/or parts design other than the bolt stop/release. FWIW, I have broken approximately a half dozen of those, various manufacturers, and they all have broken at the thinnest part right below the paddle, whether I used it or not.

I agree with the suggestion of using mil spec parts. I'll even go as far as suggesting the inexpensive mil spec parts.

 

[Goodcat]

MAGAZINES. BUY QUALITY MAGAZINES. Find what your gun likes and stick with it. The majority of AR failures I've seen are magazine related.

 

[dom1104]

MAGAZINES. BUY QUALITY MAGAZINES. Find what your gun likes and stick with it. The majority of AR failures I've seen are magazine related.

Just to save you the money and the time, the magazines your gun likes are Pmags

Seriously, just buy Pmags.

 

[BBSparkle]

I love my pmags. Bought a few 20 rounders a while back and they rule. They look bad as hell and just feel really well made. I have some of the standard metal 30 rounders, too, not sure what brand they are... Haven't had a problem with any of the mags so far, though..

 

[Destro]

i've never understood why people settle for 1/9 with chrome molly, and then deck their rifle out with another $700 in toys...spend the extra $70 bucks and buy TRUE mill spec....1/7 chrome lined.

 

[vick1]

ar

Do your homework.... DMPS, Bushmaster etc... are good rifles just not "as good" as some. I would take my used FN A2 20" upper with a M16 BCG 3000 rnds spent thru it, by me, over a new DPMS or Bushmaster anyday... Just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.

Unless your clearing houses or driving in your car, I would seriously consider a 20"
government barrel. There is a reason the Marines use them....

Sorry, parts that break.... I have not had any failures but I have spare LPK's, buffer springs and a spare M16 BCG... Along with other parts but I would take these with me if I was worried about my gun failing.

 

[firehawk1]

Just to save you the money and the time, the magazines your gun likes are Pmags

Seriously, just buy Pmags.

Got 2 Pmags coming. More will follow I'm sure.

As far as a chrome lined barrel, I read alot of stuff on gun/AR forums and it appeared to me that unless you are in a very humid enviornment, are blasting away ALOT of rounds at a time, a chrome lined barrel is unnecessery. Along with most saying a chrome lined barrel is slightly less accurate. No personal experience, just what I've read.

 

[nova512]

if it works and you like it go with it,its like craftsman tools verses snap on . how much are you willing to spend.alot of people dont like rra but i have one and love it . its a money /want issue lol

 

[firehawk1]

its a money /want issue lol

So true... so true.

 

[Goodcat]

Pmags is what I meant by buy quality mags anyways. If you look, you can find them just as cheap as crappy steel mags too. odd??

 

[patience0830]

Parts

I spent a couple of years as my unit armorer 20 yrs ago and the only AR parts I ever had break were gas rings and a firing pin. I replaced a lot of lost small parts though. Spares are a plus. LPK and bolt pieces. front sight post.

M60 was a different story. We did break a few of those but the ones we had were ancient.