1911 newbie, 1911 go brrrr

[NoAdmiration]

I'm new to 1911s so please don't make too much fun.

Got myself a 10mm Springfield Ronin. Swapped out the trigger for a short one made of metal. While I was in there I polished the trigger bow, bottom disconnector contact point and very lightly polished the top of the disconnector. I also installed a 26# recoil spring (Stock is 24#) but failed to notice the more powerful firing pin spring in the package!

Took it to the range and it ran fine. Took it back to the range and it did something unexpected. Something I wont mention because the AFT (come on man) might hear me... lets just say I loaded, 9 rounds pulled the trigger once and there were less than 8 rounds left in the magazine... the rest were almost certainly stolen by elves.

When the gun did stop firing, the hammer was in the half cocked position.

Took the gun home, took it apart, nothing seems broken. I've already ordered new internals, I wanted to swap out the MIM ones anyways.

Question, could the incorrect (too light) firing pin spring have caused the gun to slam fire repeatedly while firing?

Could I have shortened the disconnecter too much by polishing it?

Is there another variable I might be missing?

I was careful not to touch the sear contact surface because I knew that could cause problems.

Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. I really like the design of this gun and would love to find a local class where I can learn not to be an idiot.

 

[fullmetaljesus]

If you're wise and have a dog. You might ask a close friend to foster your dog until after you get raided.

It's a good thing we've had to wear masks for a year, good practice for when you have to breath through a cloth hood while in the back of a van.

 

[NoAdmiration]

If you're wise and have a dog. You might ask a close friend to foster your dog until after you get raided.

It's a good thing we've had to wear masks for a year, good practice for when you have to breath through a cloth hood while in the back of a van.

Actually thought about this a bit but I decided that if this is the sort of thing the puppy poppers want to go after then it really wouldn't matter because it's already too late.

 

[churchmouse]

I'm new to 1911s so please don't make too much fun.

Got myself a 10mm Springfield Ronin. Swapped out the trigger for a short one made of metal. While I was in there I polished the trigger bow, bottom disconnector contact point and very lightly polished the top of the disconnector. I also installed a 26# recoil spring (Stock is 24#) but failed to notice the more powerful firing pin spring in the package!

Took it to the range and it ran fine. Took it back to the range and it did something unexpected. Something I wont mention because the AFT (come on man) might hear me... lets just say I loaded, 9 rounds pulled the trigger once and there were less than 8 rounds left in the magazine... the rest were almost certainly stolen by elves.

When the gun did stop firing, the hammer was in the half cocked position.

Took the gun home, took it apart, nothing seems broken. I've already ordered new internals, I wanted to swap out the MIM ones anyways.

Question, could the incorrect (too light) firing pin spring have caused the gun to slam fire repeatedly while firing?

Could I have shortened the disconnected too much by polishing it?

Is there another variable I might be missing?

I was careful not to touch the sear contact surface because I knew that could cause problems.

Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. I really like the design of this gun and would love to find a local class where I can learn not to be an idiot.

You have screwed the pooch.
There is a certain love between these parts. Not real sure as to your process but you have mucked up the connection of the sear and hammer. The 10mm has some shock to it and the hammer is not locking back on the sear. This could be not enough main spring.
Have you ever done any of this work before. Solid question.
I never leave the crap MIM in the gun when the real fine tuning starts. Total waste of time.
JMHO of course.

 

[NoAdmiration]

You have screwed the pooch.
There is a certain love between these parts. Not real sure as to your process but you have mucked up the connection of the sear and hammer. The 10mm has some shock to it and the hammer is not locking back on the sear. This could be not enough main spring.
Have you ever done any of this work before. Solid question.
I never leave the crap MIM in the gun when the real fine tuning starts. Total waste of time.
JMHO of course.

I knew I was going to replace the parts anyway. I though I would practice on the MIMs

I've not worked on 1911s before and don't think of myself as a gunsmith of any sorts. I can build an AR that works and have noodled on Glocks but nothing that requires real machining skills.


The gun ran fine with the original recoil spring set up, but I could try a more powerful main spring.

The parts I ordered replace everything which I hope will resolve the problem. But I would like to understand the nature of it so I can avoid make that mistake in the future. It's strange to me that it worked and then didn't. I feel like if I had really butchered it, it would have failed right away.

Should I rule out the, too light, firing pin spring as a possible cause?

 

[churchmouse]

I knew I was going to replace the parts anyway. I though I would practice on the MIMs

I've not worked on 1911s before and don't think of myself as a gunsmith of any sorts. I can build an AR that works and have noodled on Glocks but nothing that requires real machining skills.


The gun ran fine with the original recoil spring set up, but I could try a more powerful main spring.

The parts I ordered replace everything which I hope will resolve the problem. But I would like to understand the nature of it so I can avoid make that mistake in the future. It's strange to me that it worked and then didn't. I feel like if I had really butchered it, it would have failed right away.

Should I rule out the, too light, firing pin spring as a possible cause?

Man it is so hard to do this in print. The issue is the hammer and sear coming into full lock. I have had a couple do exactly what yours is doing. It was back when we were broke and staying with MIM stuff. Increased main spring pressure put the sear back in rhythm and stopped the hammer follow.
increasing recoil spring is the answer to another question. Not this one.
polishing should never cause issues unless there is an issue before you started and this brought it out.
now the real danger is diagnosing an ignition control issue on the internet.
Do you have a trigger pressure gauge.
You mentioned a new trigger. How does it match up to the original. Is it allowing a reset. Again the dangers of diagnosis on a forum.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I've seen this in person at an IDPA match. (though less spectacular because it decided to do it halfway through a mag. So short enough of a brrrt to just be cool.)

My not so expert advice is remove the parts you polished, throw them away, and buy new ones. After all, they are cheap.

Oh, and learn your lesson and don't do what you did again. Leave polishing and tweaking to gunsmiths. ESPECIALLY on THAT platform. It seems to be way more sensitive and unforgiving than other guns to tinkering with the guts.

 

[churchmouse]

I knew I was going to replace the parts anyway. I though I would practice on the MIMs

I've not worked on 1911s before and don't think of myself as a gunsmith of any sorts. I can build an AR that works and have noodled on Glocks but nothing that requires real machining skills.


The gun ran fine with the original recoil spring set up, but I could try a more powerful main spring.

The parts I ordered replace everything which I hope will resolve the problem. But I would like to understand the nature of it so I can avoid make that mistake in the future. It's strange to me that it worked and then didn't. I feel like if I had really butchered it, it would have failed right away.

Should I rule out the, too light, firing pin spring as a possible cause?

Dial up the EGW site and replace the hammer sear and disco. Put the stock trigger back in the frame. Set the break at 4.5 pounds and see what happens.
you can use Cylinder and slide as well.
that’s as good as it gets over the inter webs.
with out holding the gun and putting eyes on it everything is a dice roll and rolling dice with a firearm is just a no no.

 

[NoAdmiration]

Man it is so hard to do this in print. The issue is the hammer and sear coming into full lock. I have had a couple do exactly what yours is doing. It was back when we were broke and staying with MIM stuff. Increased main spring pressure put the sear back in rhythm and stopped the hammer follow.
increasing recoil spring is the answer to another question. Not this one.
polishing should never cause issues unless there is an issue before you started and this brought it out.
now the real danger is diagnosing an ignition control issue on the internet.
Do you have a trigger pressure gauge.
You mentioned a new trigger. How does it match up to the original. Is it allowing a reset. Again the dangers of diagnosis on a forum.

Don't have a trigger gauge. It seems to reset correctly. I order a C&S 4.5# tactical match kit that is advertised as needed minimal fitting.

 

[NoAdmiration]

I've seen this in person at an IDPA match. (though less spectacular because it decided to do it halfway through a mag. So short enough of a brrrt to just be cool.)

My not so expert advice is remove the parts you polished, throw them away, and buy new ones. After all, they are cheap.

Oh, and learn your lesson and don't do what you did again. Leave polishing and tweaking to gunsmiths. ESPECIALLY on THAT platform. It seems to be way more sensitive and unforgiving than other guns to tinkering with the guts.

I guess i didn't appreciate how delicate a platform it was.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I guess i didn't appreciate how delicate a platform it was.

No worries. Remember when this was invented...

 

[churchmouse]

Don't have a trigger gauge. It seems to reset correctly. I order a C&S 4.5# tactical match kit that is advertised as needed minimal fitting.

Perfect.
and to be sure I am not being critical of you and your 1st attempts at dealing with a 1911. They can be confusing.
Thing is one may fall right together. The next will be a total pain in the butt. That’s the fun in this at least it has been for me. The learn curve has never leveled off.
good choice on the ignition controls.
And you have picked a solid gun to start with.

 

[NoAdmiration]

Perfect.
and to be sure I am not being critical of you and your 1st attempts at dealing with a 1911. They can be confusing.
Thing is one may fall right together. The next will be a total pain in the butt. That’s the fun in this at least it has been for me. The learn curve has never leveled off.
good choice on the ignition controls.
And you have picked a solid gun to start with.

No worries, I deserve a bit of ribbing. I appreciate the help. I would still love to find a proper class to learn more about the platform.

 

[gmcttr]

I'm curious why you put a heavier recoil spring in it. Just for fun I would put the original back in and see what that does. That would take the only variable out other than your "polishing"...and polishing should mean slicking things up with minimal metal removal. It does not start with heavy stoning or sanding.

 

[drillsgt]

I'm new to 1911s so please don't make too much fun.

Got myself a 10mm Springfield Ronin. Swapped out the trigger for a short one made of metal. While I was in there I polished the trigger bow, bottom disconnector contact point and very lightly polished the top of the disconnector. I also installed a 26# recoil spring (Stock is 24#) but failed to notice the more powerful firing pin spring in the package!

Took it to the range and it ran fine. Took it back to the range and it did something unexpected. Something I wont mention because the AFT (come on man) might hear me... lets just say I loaded, 9 rounds pulled the trigger once and there were less than 8 rounds left in the magazine... the rest were almost certainly stolen by elves.

When the gun did stop firing, the hammer was in the half cocked position.

Took the gun home, took it apart, nothing seems broken. I've already ordered new internals, I wanted to swap out the MIM ones anyways.

Question, could the incorrect (too light) firing pin spring have caused the gun to slam fire repeatedly while firing?

Could I have shortened the disconnecter too much by polishing it?

Is there another variable I might be missing?

I was careful not to touch the sear contact surface because I knew that could cause problems.

Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. I really like the design of this gun and would love to find a local class where I can learn not to be an idiot.

Had you ever shot it before the modifications? Nothing in what you described should have caused this type of malfunction, what kind of trigger did you put in, does it have an OT stop? Springfields usually come with extra power firing pin springs for drop safety so I doubt the FP is the issue. It sounds like there may be been questionable sear/hammer engagement in concert with that extra power recoil spring. Maybe something didn't quite get put back together right?

 

[BE Mike]

There is a good reason to only load two rounds in the initial magazine of a used 1911 or one which has been worked on.

 

[foszoe]

There is a good reason to only load two rounds in the initial magazine of a used 1911 or one which has been worked on.

thanks for the tip.

 

[NoAdmiration]

Had you ever shot it before the modifications? Nothing in what you described should have caused this type of malfunction, what kind of trigger did you put in, does it have an OT stop? Springfields usually come with extra power firing pin springs for drop safety so I doubt the FP is the issue. It sounds like there may be been questionable sear/hammer engagement in concert with that extra power recoil spring. Maybe something didn't quite get put back together right?

It ran fine before I broke it, but I did start shooting a more powerful brand of ammo, which is why I upped the spring weight.

It did function correctly briefly post noodling. I feel like if the inertia form the slide going forward is sufficient to drop the hammer, something else must be wrong. I did press on the back of the cocked hammer and couldn't get it to drop.

Right now I don't have a 1911. I have a stripped frame and slide and a box of parts, some of which might be out of spec.

I think I'll wait for the replacement part on the off chance the AFT (come one man) decides to be particularly disagreeable.

I'd like to think this is paranode thinking but in 2021 paranoia is just good sense.

 

[NoAdmiration]

I'm curious why you put a heavier recoil spring in it. Just for fun I would put the original back in and see what that does. That would take the only variable out other than your "polishing"...and polishing should mean slicking things up with minimal metal removal. It does not start with heavy stoning or sanding.

It's a good suggestion. I started shooting a new brand of ammo that was more powerful. I'm going to leave it in parts for now for legal concerns.

 

[Cameramonkey]

It's a good suggestion. I started shooting a new brand of ammo that was more powerful. I'm going to leave it in parts for now for legal concerns.

IANAL but pretty sure it not being assembled doesnt matter to that alphabet soup. Its called Constructive Possession. The only way to stay legal would be to keep the parts physically separate so its not possible for you to assemble it into an NFA item. Like put the bad parts in a bag and give it to somebody to hold, take it to the office and put it in your desk/locker, etc.

But I wouldnt sweat it. You're more likely to win the lottery than have them chase you down over something so trivial.