1911 and a good lube

[Bennettjh]

I use Lucas Gun oil and if I run out, CLP in the meantime.

 

[Mongo59]

I have and will always use grease on my M1's and 1911's. They were designed for it. A lot of greases have fatty acids that can and will harm your steel. The little grease pots have got to pricey and lets face it there are superior products out there now. Believe it or not the same problems we have with some firearms are the same issues they had/have with variable pitch propellers on planes. I found Sulflo Inc Plastilube #3 is exactly what we are looking for to protect and improve function in the 1911. It is a non-soap thickened high temperature grease that is water resistant, non-melting and just plain stays where you put it. A 14oz tube for a grease gun will last a lifetime. A little dab will do ya...

 

[Drail]

I don't know where you came up with "they were designed for it". Run whatever you want but oil will give better reliability over a wider range of temperatures. The engine, transmission and differential on your car runs fine on oil. There are much heavier loads on those parts than on any handgun. If you are worried aboiut oil running out of your gun then you are using way too much.

 

[gmcttr]

...The engine, transmission and differential on your car runs fine on oil...

"The engine, transmission and differential on your car" are continually pressure, bath or splash fed oil. That is not the case with firearms and once the lube is displaced it is gone.

 

[oldsecuritydogmike]

thanks

 

[hps]

I don't know if Mobil One is the best, but i've used if for sometime now with confidence its good enough for my handguns. I use home brew "Eds Red" for cleaner and never an issue. I don't carry a 1911, I carry a Kahr CM9, it gets lubed with Tetra it seems to STAY IN PLACE. if I was to carry a 1911 it would get Tetra as well.

 

[migunner]

Mobil1 baby!!

Mobil 1

 

[Good on paper]

Green Lucas Extreme
It seems super slick and does a pretty good job of staying put

 

[caulfieldian]

Churchmouse, color me interested in your different mixes. Say, what do you change up in an all stainless gun vs. a cerakoted gun?

 

[Mongo59]

I don't know where you came up with "they were designed for it".

Now I am confused, are you saying they were not designed for grease, better off with oil or both? What is it about my statement that seems to have offended you? Personally I would hope not to be so confrontational even if I had tried the mentioned product and found it lacking in some way. Are you wishing to go on record as saying that any oil has better reliability over a wider range of temps than a specific product made to permanently lube moving parts in a variable pitch prop with all the heating and cooling and associated condensation and icing? By the way, put 90w140 in your engine, 5w10 in your differential and straight 40w in your automatic transmission and then come back and we'll talk. I thought the idea of this thread was to see what works. You don't seem to trust me but I assure you it does work. I will be willing to give you some if you wish to prove it to yourself.

 

[Good on paper]

Really the best lube is rendered North Atlantic (not Pacific) whale blubber mixed with 10% by volume volcanic ash from Spokane Washington, with a splash of vanilla for flavor.

I think it’s funny that this is such a point of contention. Lucas Extreme has my vote but run what you feel is best

 

[churchmouse]

Churchmouse, color me interested in your different mixes. Say, what do you change up in an all stainless gun vs. a cerakoted gun?

Permatex makes a red moly based engine assembly lube. I use it on the slides and some moving parts in my stainless guns.
It does get a bit stiff if I use in weather that might ice up your pond. I cut it with just a bit of hoppes gun oil for those conditions. It is slick as anything listed in this thread.

There is a series of medical syringes lined up on the shelf above the gun bench loaded with any number of different lubes used for certain applications.

 

[Jim5528]

I also have used the Permatex for years on the slides and it does get stiff in the cold.

 

[JJM7288]

Hard to beat FP10.

 

[VERT]

Lucas Extreme Gun Oil or Wilson Combat Universal Lube Work fine in 1911s. They are cheap enough and come ready to apply.

 

[Clay Pigeon]

Mobil1 baby!!

Yep, I use Amzoil Synthetic oil and grease.

 

[rhino]

If you don't mind adding lube frequently, WeaponShield, Slip2000 EWL, and FP-10 are about as good as it gets, but they are CLPs, so they don't last that long. They're absolutely ideal for ARs, though!

If you want something that won't evaporate, you need a grease. When you choose a grease, you need to be careful that you gun will still function regardless of the temperature unless it's just a range gun, then you probably want to use an oil or CLP anyway. In my experience TW25B grease is the best choice. It doesn't induce malfunctions in any temperature that humans can tolerate (unlike something like Brian Enos' SlideGlide, which is a problem in the cold even if you user the thinner version). Another things is that when TW25B does dry, it has a wax-like consistency that retains adequate lubricative properties pretty well.

If you want something in between, the only choice of which I am aware is KELLUBE M12. Neil Keller has retired, so it might be a challenge finding it, but it's a fantastic lubricant that straddles the line between oil and grease well. It also has a detergent, so it's useful for scrubbing and removing carbon deposits. I use Kellube more than any other lubricant on pistols.

 

[rvb]

motor oil. some bearing grease mixed w/ oil on the trigger group.

4 oz of break-free = $6 from amazon.
32 oz (1 qt) of mobile 1 synth = $9 from store.

I used to use BF. then a couple of specialty oils (got free off prize tables). None work any better than motor oil.

15+ years, a couple hundred thousand rounds fired. Works for me.
used in 1911s, 2011s, glocks, .22s, ARs, etc etc.

-rvb

 

[Clay Pigeon]

"The engine, transmission and differential on your car" are continually pressure, bath or splash fed oil. That is not the case with firearms and once the lube is displaced it is gone.

Some of these old guys forget about the thick oils and short strand grease that were issued with Springfields, Garands and 1911's.
Its amazing on how they survived that salt water, cold temps and the humidity of WW1, WW2 and Korean War, and are still working today.
Conventional oil doesn't climb, Synthetic does.

 

[red_zr24x4]

Lubaplate on all the semiauto pistol rails, I use it on the Garand and the M1A also