We had our deck boards replaced this summer, so I used them on my wife's she shed....interior and exterior. She calls it shabby chic. View attachment 222273 View attachment 222274 View attachment 222275
Very cool !
We had our deck boards replaced this summer, so I used them on my wife's she shed....interior and exterior. She calls it shabby chic. View attachment 222273 View attachment 222274 View attachment 222275
I recycle most all wood. When we tore down the 2 decks that were on the back of the house, I built a 13 x 31 shed with the lumber around a 12 x 30 cement pad that was out back. Had extra pole barn siding from various projects for the roof. Guess I had about $300 in the shed mainly for fasteners. The back side of the shed is where we shoot from as I put a 100’ range on that side of the shed.
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What kind of finish are you planning on using?These are right off the machine.
Cut from Walnut, and a clear finish will be applied, that will make the color pop out.
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I have to get all my shop time in before too long. Once the temps drop to 45*, I shut everything down.
I'll get things going again in the spring.
Ditto on the Superglue. I use it on a lot of wood turning projects. Very durable and it does make the grain stand out.What kind of finish are you planning on using?
Several years ago, a customer gave me a chunk of spalted buckeye and wanted grips made for a Colt Mustang .380. Making the grips was no problem, but I was stumped on what clearcoat to put on them.
I called a friend down in KY who I like to call my "finishing guru", and he said to use cyanoacrylate. I was like, Superglue?!?, and he was dead set on it. Said to use Q-tips to apply, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Took me a couple hours to get it where I wanted, but once polished that spalt popped and looked real nice. When I questioned him on why, he said the cyanoacrylate(CA) would wear better than a pre-cat lacquer.
Those grips were smooth, so I'm not sure how using CA would work for your textured grips.
I definitely would like to see the finished product. That is a unique pattern, and I'm sure that walnut will Pop when you get finish on it.
CA is fine for a smooth object, but not so good on textures. Personally, I don't care for the plastic look it gives to wood. Also the sheen is a high gloss if it's polished. I used it on many pens I've made.What kind of finish are you planning on using?
Several years ago, a customer gave me a chunk of spalted buckeye and wanted grips made for a Colt Mustang .380. Making the grips was no problem, but I was stumped on what clearcoat to put on them.
I called a friend down in KY who I like to call my "finishing guru", and he said to use cyanoacrylate. I was like, Superglue?!?, and he was dead set on it. Said to use Q-tips to apply, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Took me a couple hours to get it where I wanted, but once polished that spalt popped and looked real nice. When I questioned him on why, he said the cyanoacrylate(CA) would wear better than a pre-cat lacquer.
Those grips were smooth, so I'm not sure how using CA would work for your textured grips.
I definitely would like to see the finished product. That is a unique pattern, and I'm sure that walnut will Pop when you get finish on it.
I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.Ditto on the Superglue. I use it on a lot of wood turning projects. Very durable and it does make the grain stand out.
Don
One issue I’ve seen is if it’s exposed to moisture it will turn cloudy.I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.
There are turners having issues with the finish after several years.
Another thing to note about CA. Some people develope sensitivities and allergic reactions to it if exposed over time.
Drywall really gives it that finished lookAs a carpenter I leatn a lot from you wood workers.
I normally use dry wall on a lot of my wood projects.
I like to use BLO/mineral spirits 2:1 on things that get handled a bunch. Easy to renew if needed, looks and feels good. Also do not need to remove the grips when I oil my firearm.Drywall really gives it that finished look
I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.
There are turners having issues with the finish after several years.
Another thing to note about CA. Some people develope sensitivities and allergic reactions to it if exposed over time.
I suggest you be really cautious mixing talc and CA to flatten it and try it on a piece of scrap first. My experience is that high surface area materials, e.g. sawdust cause the CA to setup very quickly. I also know that baking soda & CA sets up quickly to form a white plastic/ivory like material. Would hate to see you mix up a thick mix and it turn into a bird poop "feature" on your nice grips (or other project)!!!I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. View attachment 226123 I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.
One thing I thought about with regards to the glossy finish of CA: I wonder if you could dull it like you do with lacquer. I sometimes mix talc(flattening powder) in lacquer to dull the sheen. I've never done it with CA, it might be a neat experiment to see what the result looks like.
I never thought about the brittle aspect of CA. It makes sense, same as why it is better to use a polyurethane for stair treads instead of a lacquer. Poly is more flexible than lacquer, therefore it holds up longer.
BLO is a nice finish, but as you state, it would need renewed.I like to use BLO/mineral spirits 2:1 on things that get handled a bunch. Easy to renew if needed, looks and feels good. Also do not need to remove the grips when I oil my firearm.
Oh yes, the Diamondwood and Spectraply blanks.I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. View attachment 226123 I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.
One thing I thought about with regards to the glossy finish of CA: I wonder if you could dull it like you do with lacquer. I sometimes mix talc(flattening powder) in lacquer to dull the sheen. I've never done it with CA, it might be a neat experiment to see what the result looks like.
I never thought about the brittle aspect of CA. It makes sense, same as why it is better to use a polyurethane for stair treads instead of a lacquer. Poly is more flexible than lacquer, therefore it holds up longer.
As is lacquer and oil based polyBLO is a nice finish…
It also is combustible for anyone that doesn't know.
Anything using drying oils, but Linseed is the leading.As is lacquer and oil based poly
I have a set of those saw horses.My son s getting married next month. A couple of months ago, we were talking over the wedding plans with him. He mentioned that they were looking at renting an arbor for the ceremony, but it seemed like too much money for something that wasn't quite what they wanted. My son said he wanted to build one, but he doesn't have the time with all of the overtime he is getting and he would have to come to my house to build it.
I asked if he minded if I helped out. He said he would appreciate it and we talked design. There are a couple of details to finish, then staining: View attachment 216646