The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • Jaybird1980

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    I'm excited for it. Have some other stuff to pay off and save up for a transmission for the truck in case it decides to crap out on me over the summer.
    Actually having a plan for this car has me giddy. I want full interior, cage, AC is a must since it's not a convertible. Planning on cheap wheels and drag radials. Also, for giggles, I'm gonna see how well a 7.5" rear end holds up under power. Why? Because I have it. I also have a spare 8.8 so I don't care if I break the 7.5" lol. And it will be good practice for my first welded rear end.
    I can tell you from experience it won't hold up. Maybe a little better behind that auto, but a couple clutch drops will wipe one out mighty quick. I wouldn't waste much money experimenting on it, I would sell it and use the money

    Mine was fully welded and even a girdle cover, didn't make it a week.
     

    churchmouse

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    I'm excited for it. Have some other stuff to pay off and save up for a transmission for the truck in case it decides to crap out on me over the summer.
    Actually having a plan for this car has me giddy. I want full interior, cage, AC is a must since it's not a convertible. Planning on cheap wheels and drag radials. Also, for giggles, I'm gonna see how well a 7.5" rear end holds up under power. Why? Because I have it. I also have a spare 8.8 so I don't care if I break the 7.5" lol. And it will be good practice for my first welded rear end.
    If the Ford is anything like the GM 7.5 it has a well defined fuse. That fuse gets shorter as you find forward bite. When you get the chassis figured out and work towards a better 60' time that rear end will literally just let go. Not enough support to keep the ring and pinion in full contact under the brutality of a treated launch pad and the desire to go as fast as possible from a standing start. That is the well defined barriers that drag racing presents to the builder. The faster you go the bigger the hammer you are dropping on the drive line.
    When you get it built and ready let us know. I want to start a pool on how many serious launches it will live through.....:):

    Fox bodys are inherently easy to set up for drag racing. Lots and lots of info on how to tweak the rear suspension on them for this purpose. Enjoy the journey.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    If the Ford is anything like the GM 7.5 it has a well defined fuse. That fuse gets shorter as you find forward bite. When you get the chassis figured out and work towards a better 60' time that rear end will literally just let go. Not enough support to keep the ring and pinion in full contact under the brutality of a treated launch pad and the desire to go as fast as possible from a standing start. That is the well defined barriers that drag racing presents to the builder. The faster you go the bigger the hammer you are dropping on the drive line.
    When you get it built and ready let us know. I want to start a pool on how many serious launches it will live through.....:):

    Fox bodys are inherently easy to set up for drag racing. Lots and lots of info on how to tweak the rear suspension on them for this purpose. Enjoy the journey.
    I'll happily let you guys know. I don't think I can sell it enough for the hassle that it would be worth dealing with the morons on FB. "Will this work on my Honda?" "Will you take half of what you're asking?" "I'll be there tonight (never shows up)."

    Also.... I got a really dumb/good idea.
    Compound turbos.
    Why? Because my buddy doesn't think a 475 will spool on a bone stock 351. And if he's right, I'm just gonna build a compound turbo setup, basically identical to what's on my truck. Oh, and I also don't mind doing this because A - almost no one ever bothers, and B - I have the turbos to do it already.
    It will spool before 3,000 for sure.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    I'll happily let you guys know. I don't think I can sell it enough for the hassle that it would be worth dealing with the morons on FB. "Will this work on my Honda?" "Will you take half of what you're asking?" "I'll be there tonight (never shows up)."

    Also.... I got a really dumb/good idea.
    Compound turbos.
    Why? Because my buddy doesn't think a 475 will spool on a bone stock 351. And if he's right, I'm just gonna build a compound turbo setup, basically identical to what's on my truck. Oh, and I also don't mind doing this because A - almost no one ever bothers, and B - I have the turbos to do it already.
    It will spool before 3,000 for sure.
    Well if bone stock means cam and all your buddy is probably right. That thing isn't going to get started till probably 3500rpm, and that cam and head are going to run out of gas about 4500rpm. Won't be fun.

    Cam swap and valve springs can get it to run up to 5500ish maybe 6k
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Well if bone stock means cam and all your buddy is probably right. That thing isn't going to get started till probably 3500rpm, and that cam and head are going to run out of gas about 4500rpm. Won't be fun.

    Cam swap and valve springs can get it to run up to 5500ish maybe 6k
    I do plan on putting a cam in it. I had one selected - hoping I still have my notes somewhere lol
    It will be stock heads. Aftermarket lower and upper intake.
    I need to figure out valve springs - I hadn't thought about that. I know with the LS engines you gotta put some kind of PAC valve spring in to get it to hold boost on the top end, but I don't know much about the science on that. Should look into that more lol
     

    d.kaufman

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    30 years in the auto industry and this is the first time I've seen a rear end housing rust thru. Slowly leaked all the fluid out till it ate the bearings and ring and pinion. I was able to peel quarter to half inch thick chunks of the housing off with my hands

    20210615_135606.jpg
     

    Jaybird1980

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    30 years in the auto industry and this is the first time I've seen a rear end housing rust thru. Slowly leaked all the fluid out till it ate the bearings and ring and pinion. I was able to peel quarter to half inch thick chunks of the housing off with my hands

    View attachment 144006
    Wow, welcome to NWI.

    How old is the vehicle?
    And I imagine the rest of the vehicle matches?
     

    TomO

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    30 years in the auto industry and this is the first time I've seen a rear end housing rust thru. Slowly leaked all the fluid out till it ate the bearings and ring and pinion. I was able to peel quarter to half inch thick chunks of the housing off with my hands

    View attachment 144006

    What year/vehicle was it? Curious how many winters it takes to get the the center of a rear diff!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    d.kaufman

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    Wow, welcome to NWI.

    How old is the vehicle?
    And I imagine the rest of the vehicle matches?
    05 GMC Yukon. Surprisingly the rest of it is in decent shape. A little rust at bottom of rear quarters and that's it. Only 89k miles Thinking been used many times hauling a boat in and out of the water?
     
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    churchmouse

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    05 GMC Yukon. Surprisingly the rest of it is in decent shape. A little rust at bottom of rear quarters and that's it. Only 89k miles Thinking been used many times hauling a boat in and out of the water?
    Or the casting was flawed.
    it would have to sit submerged a long long time for that to happen I would think.
     

    d.kaufman

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    Or the casting was flawed.
    it would have to sit submerged a long long time for that to happen I would think.
    Talked to the customer this afternoon. Owned it since 07 and doesnt own a boat. Just strange that 90% of all rust is contained to rear diff and back. Heck, even the brake lines looked decent
     

    d.kaufman

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    Bad casting.
    Yeah. That's what I'm thinking. Have another Yukon xl in the shop as well. 1 model year newer (but only built 5 months apart) and still can see most the paint on that one, but has more body rust. Go figure

    I've seen plenty where you can peel off rust in thick chunks, but never one that's actually leaking thru the casting
     

    churchmouse

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    The trunk pans for the 64 project came today. We packed them down to the body shop. He had quoted $2500 for the pas and materials to install them and $1500 or so in labor.
    I bought the parts for $325 and $150 in shipping.
    Shop owner was not amused as we were not when he quoted the repair. Hell the body is off the frame and on stands at the perfect height to do this work. 1 day out and in. The seal coat is part of the paint/body work already quoted.
     

    churchmouse

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    Last edited:

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