The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[Jaybird1980]

Both calipers in question were replaced about 60k miles ago when I first got the truck together. They were not OEM, but from one of the main stores. Likely Advance. I think the driver rear was replaced a second time many moons ago via Rock Auto.
I've never disassembled a caliper. I can look into the process, but considering they've been replaced, is it worth looking at? I mean. I guess so. Something is wrong. Might as well check all involved components.

Floating pads? Like... They sit in a bracket that is attached to the axle, then the caliper bolts to that bracket. The pads have ears that ride in little channels on that bracket. I didn't take the bracket off and clean those channels out, but I did lube the rails up last time and also made sure that the pads were moving freely. Still locked up within a couple of days.

Yes clean those channels good when you do brakes, I lightly grease the channels, then install new hardware. The pads have to move freely in those channels or they can't release away from the disc.

Most Calipers are actually pretty basic once you take one apart you will see there isn't much to em

 

[churchmouse]

Once you see the process it is to easy to do. Nothing complicated. The caliper halves bolt together. Remove those fasteners.
You should be able to pull the piston out taken heed of the dust seal. It is the bellows looking seal. If you have to use compressed air to get the piston out its in there pretty tight.
Once out inspect for debris/crap. Rust or scaring. Be careful with the seal. It is obvious what and where it is. Look in the piston bore as well.

Here is the thing, Advance sells some questionable parts and save for plugs/oil/paint/battery's etc I avoid them. The rebuilt crap they sell most times is not all that good. But anymore you never know where these parts are sourced.
Brake parts we buy new from the right distributor. No rebuilt parts on the cheap.

If the pads move freely when installed they are floating.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Not sure how long they've been on. If the fluid has never been flushed then it has a lot of moisture in it. I was thinking if it's steel pistons they would rust quickly and be hanging up. My thoughts are the only thing all the calipers share is the fluid, and I think he said he was having problems with them all randomly.

In the time line of parts replacement, the calipers have been on for many thousands of miles before I had the brake fluid flushed. Which means the old crappy fluid was running around and could have damaged my newer calipers. I hadn't thought of this before.

Once you see the process it is to easy to do. Nothing complicated. The caliper halves bolt together. Remove those fasteners.
You should be able to pull the piston out taken heed of the dust seal. It is the bellows looking seal. If you have to use compressed air to get the piston out its in there pretty tight.
Once out inspect for debris/crap. Rust or scaring. Be careful with the seal. It is obvious what and where it is. Look in the piston bore as well.

Here is the thing, Advance sells some questionable parts and save for plugs/oil/paint/battery's etc I avoid them. The rebuilt crap they sell most times is not all that good. But anymore you never know where these parts are sourced.
Brake parts we buy new from the right distributor. No rebuilt parts on the cheap.

If the pads move freely when installed they are floating.

I'll find a day this week to pull them apart.
If I decide to buy new again, where do you recommend buying from?

 

[Jaybird1980]

In the time line of parts replacement, the calipers have been on for many thousands of miles before I had the brake fluid flushed. Which means the old crappy fluid was running around and could have damaged my newer calipers. I hadn't thought of this before.


I'll find a day this week to pull them apart.
If I decide to buy new again, where do you recommend buying from?

I basically buy all my parts from Rockauto anymore. Our local Napa rarely has stuff in stock, the O'reilly's is better if I need it quicker.

 

[churchmouse]

In the time line of parts replacement, the calipers have been on for many thousands of miles before I had the brake fluid flushed. Which means the old crappy fluid was running around and could have damaged my newer calipers. I hadn't thought of this before.


I'll find a day this week to pull them apart.
If I decide to buy new again, where do you recommend buying from?

That is a good question. As mentioned it is hard to know where to source good parts/. I have friends in the parts world. I will ask them.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I basically buy all my parts from Rockauto anymore. Our local Napa rarely has stuff in stock, the O'reilly's is better if I need it quicker.

Noted. If CM doesn't turn up better options, I'll probably go with Rock Auto. Hoping I can clean them out and save the coin.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Noted. If CM doesn't turn up better options, I'll probably go with Rock Auto. Hoping I can clean them out and save the coin.

They also sell the parts to rebuild them.
It used to be that Cardone and Centric rebuilt most of the rebuilds on the market.

 

[femurphy77]

Noted. If CM doesn't turn up better options, I'll probably go with Rock Auto. Hoping I can clean them out and save the coin.

Rebuilding a caliper is easy cheesy, the only thing special you need is the hone and a fresh seal kit. Of course that's assuming the piston and caliper internals aren't scarred or pitted.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Rebuilding a caliper is easy cheesy, the only thing special you need is the hone and a fresh seal kit. Of course that's assuming the piston and caliper internals aren't scarred or pitted.

You can get a new piston if it's jacked up. As long as the channel the seal fits in is good and the fluid ports are good I would rebuild it.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

So happy to see Indiana show out on such a big stage. Hoosier’s rule! CM you can skip to about the 6:30 mark for some big body Impala goodness

 

[churchmouse]

I asked one of my guys and he says even a Ford dealer might outsource so just tear them apart and have a look. Seals and such are cheap. Rock auto is as good as anyone I guess.

 

[churchmouse]

So happy to see Indiana show out on such a big stage. Hoosier’s rule! CM you can skip to about the 6:30 mark for some big body Impala goodness

I really want to see the trans temp gauge on the Security Ford......

 

[ChristianPatriot]

I really want to see the trans temp gauge on the Security Ford......

6-speed. No worries

 

[churchmouse]

6-speed. No worries

It was boiling over when he pulled it away....

 

[ChristianPatriot]

It was boiling over when he pulled it away....

That’s just engine overheating. Ain’t nobody got time to care about that.

 

[churchmouse]

Jegs just screwed the pooch on my last order with them. They are fading fast in my eyes. I will do the 2+ hour sit on hold crap in the morning. Again. Damnit.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I managed to make it into a Boosted Boiz video lol. Gotta wear the right shirt when going to shindig's with lots of cameras.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I just realized that there are hardly enough videos in these threads.
Took this snippet of our new Explorer Sport. For a 5 thousand pound beast, she moves out. I need to get a 0-60 clip soon. Too bad it's the wife's car and not mine...

 

[jeffsqartan]

Transmission is out of the Stang. Something inside is definitely not happy. There was enough metal flake in the fluid to make a bass boat jealous.
My guess is a bearing went bad. I'm trying to figure out where to buy the parts from, but I'm looking to rebuild it myself. I've seen this guy on YouTube do it a few times - Paul Cangialotti (I'm sure I'm butchering his last name). Worst case, I have to drop it off at my buddy's.

Additionally, there has been a vibration that starts around 3500 that I have been hunting down for several years now. I have finally narrowed it down to something in that transmission. Possibly the input shaft. We left the bellhousing and clutch on the car and I fired it up without the transmission attached. Revved it out to like 4500-ish. It felt SUPER smooth the entire way. The most smooth it's really ever felt.

Video of the car running with the exhaust dumping at the shorty headers, just because. My neighbor must love me.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Transmission is out of the Stang. Something inside is definitely not happy. There was enough metal flake in the fluid to make a bass boat jealous.
My guess is a bearing went bad. I'm trying to figure out where to buy the parts from, but I'm looking to rebuild it myself. I've seen this guy on YouTube do it a few times - Paul Cangialotti (I'm sure I'm butchering his last name). Worst case, I have to drop it off at my buddy's.

Additionally, there has been a vibration that starts around 3500 that I have been hunting down for several years now. I have finally narrowed it down to something in that transmission. Possibly the input shaft. We left the bellhousing and clutch on the car and I fired it up without the transmission attached. Revved it out to like 4500-ish. It felt SUPER smooth the entire way. The most smooth it's really ever felt.

Video of the car running with the exhaust dumping at the shorty headers, just because. My neighbor must love me.

Is it a World Class or Non World Class

btw I like Paul's videos