Not trying to be a nay sayer but.. Are these carry guns or target guns. 2.5lb's is a really light trigger for a carry gun. I know everyone is different. If you haven't handled a 2.5 lb trigger I'd find someone with one to try. If you have and your comfortable with it then ignore me! Just be safe.
I have some fixtures and stones if you want to do it, I'll just sit back and watch as I don't want to let someone take these with them
The kuhnhausen manual and this guy
1911 Sear Jig
Good parts (just because it says "Wilson" on the bag doesn't make it a good part, FWIW)
Add a little bit of knowledge and experience tweaking a sear spring, and 2.5# lb triggers with perfect reliability AND a good positive reset are easy.
Too many people focus on just the pull weight, and end up getting there at the expense of reset pressure, which is NOT conducive to reliability nor fast shooting.
The kuhnhausen manual and this guy
1911 Sear Jig
Good parts (just because it says "Wilson" on the bag doesn't make it a good part, FWIW)
Add a little bit of knowledge and experience tweaking a sear spring, and 2.5# lb triggers with perfect reliability AND a good positive reset are easy.
Too many people focus on just the pull weight, and end up getting there at the expense of reset pressure, which is NOT conducive to reliability nor fast shooting.
Bob Marvel Auto sear and Hammer jig. Superior tool. No need for the pins with this tool.
Those are nice. I like the hammer hook capability for fixing hammers that aren't so great out of the bag.
But my personal opinion is to always use pins on the individual gun you're working on. The hammer and sear pin hole relationship are not EXACTLY the same on every gun, so using something other than the gun isn't ideal. The perfectly neutrally engaged hammer and sear in the STI can end up slightly negatively engaged (Bad juju there) in a Springer.
When you're looking for perfection, the few thou in variation matter.
Great Advice Rob. For sure spend the money on good parts. If its not made by EGW or Infinity/SVI I will not put it in my 1911. The Fusion 1911 AllenM built for me had all Ed Brown parts in it. Went with the Hardcore hammer and sear. Suppose to be the best Ed Brown makes. The whole trigger group crapped out within 2500 rounds through it. The disconnector and sear where totally trashed. I'm glad the hammer has the safety notch or the gun would have went full auto. From what AllenM has told me it looks like the trigger was failing to reset properly and caused the wear. The last USPSA match I shot at Atlanta I had so many gun issues on the 3rd stage that it ruined any chance of having a good match time. Im just glad I brung a backup gun or my day of shooting was over with.
I tried the EB hardcore stuff. Meh. I prefer EGW as well.
The EB was the best choice for the old TRP I had. Because of a variation in sear-hammer pin hole positioning, it needed a sear with longish .470+" (if memory serves correctly, rarelya great bet) pinhole-nose length to be right. The EB was the only one long enough. EGW, STI and I think the wilson were all .467-.468 (again, the remembering of numbers isn't my thing, but they were a few thou short.)
I appreciate the advice. Competition only, currently only have one trigger that light and 100% agree that it requires getting adjusted to, or at least it did for me.
That is a very generous offer. Thank you! I'm a bit of a tools and information junkie though so if I go the DIY route I'd like to buy what I need so it is there for whenever the mood to study or tinker (or a new gun) comes around.
Great Advice Rob. For sure spend the money on good parts. If its not made by EGW or Infinity/SVI I will not put it in my 1911.
This is a fantastic forum when you need to find folks to help you spend money .
The answer may come when I get my hands on the book mentioned previously, but am curious if it is typical to attempt tuning with mostly the stock gun parts (STI in this case) or to start out with pretty much all new hard parts.
This is a fantastic forum when you need to find folks to help you spend money .
The answer may come when I get my hands on the book mentioned previously, but am curious if it is typical to attempt tuning with mostly the stock gun parts (STI in this case) or to start out with pretty much all new hard parts.