.45 acp shotshells

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  • Slow Hand

    Master
    Rating - 99.3%
    146   1   0
    Aug 27, 2008
    3,112
    149
    West Side
    I was reminded of an idea recently that I had wanted to try for years. I like the idea of having some shot loads for a revolver, and have made them for .38/357's and .45 Colt (using cut down .444 Marlin cases). I read years ago in an old Nonte book about cutting down .30-06 cases down to use in a 1917 revolver. I picked up a Brazilian 1937 awhile back and so i decided to try it out this morning. I took some military .308 cases and cut them down to a little over 1.50" with my cheapie chop saw.



    Then, I put them in my Forrester case trimmer and get them back to 1.50" even.



    I removed the primer crimp and reprimed them. Then I changed dies to my .44 Special sizing die. I barely screwed it in and ran the case up into it. OD of the case came out at .450" so just about perfect to fit the .452 throats of my Smith. I screwed the die in further and further until the cases would seat all the way in the chamber.



    Next, I poured some 7 1/2 shot in the case until I had what I guessed to be enough room for powder and wads. I weighed the shot and it came out to just under 200 gr. I figured 5.0 gr of Red Dot under a 230 gr slug is safe, so the same amount under 200gr of shot would be safe, I punched out some wads from cardboard and cardstock. Dumped the powder in the case and used a .357 case to seat the cardboard wad.



    Filled the case near to the brim with shot, them thumbed a cardstock wad over the shot. Then I put a .40 S&W seat/crimp die in the press and used it to crimp the case mouth over the overshot wad. Something like .41 mag de may have worked better, but it was the best I could come up with...



    I loaded up 18 rounds, figuring I'd put some in full moon clips and a couple of half moon clips, then I can have the easy option of half shot/half slugs, or all shot. I'm looking forward to trying them out!



     

    Chance

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Sep 25, 2009
    1,040
    129
    Berne
    Have been making a shot load for .45 ACP using .308 rifle brass and inserting a short piece of a .410 shots she'll wad. Works very well.
     

    bstewrat3

    Master
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    142   0   0
    Apr 26, 2009
    1,532
    84
    Beech Grove
    I made some shotshells for a T/C 44 Mag hotshot barrel quite a few years ago and used a light crimp from a blank making die to hold the over shot wad, but a roll crimp from the intended cartridge would work just as well. It wasn't a full crimp like you would use on blanks just enough retain the fiber wad.
     

    BehindBlueI's

    Grandmaster
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    29   0   0
    Oct 3, 2012
    25,903
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    It's just lead.. It's harmless. Think muzzleloader / muzzleloader shotgun.

    Well, a muzzleloading shotgun is smooth bore. A muzzle loader is shooting a single projectile. I'm not sure either mirror what's going on here, with a column of small lead projectiles going down a rifled barrel. Understand I'm just spitballing and maybe I'm off base, but my concern is two fold:

    First, the shot is going to be forced into the rifling and will be deformed, resulting in leading of the barrel (and opened up patterns, but I'm sure no one is expecting great patterns from a rifled pistol barrel and shot)
    Second, sufficient leading could restrict the barrel to the point damage results.
     

    17 squirrel

    Shooter
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    3   0   0
    May 15, 2013
    4,427
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    I think you're making alot more out of it than is needed,
    Is some shot gonna get squashed, yep it is.. Are you gonna get some leading maybe ?? Could be, but remember most lead shot is coated with Graphite and that will supress most of the leading issues.
    Plus it's really a fun thing that can be used for small varmints dispatch when needed up close and personal in most cases.
    Guys have been loading this stuff for a long long time,
    You just don't ever hear about any problems..
     

    AmmoManAaron

    Master
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    37   0   0
    Feb 20, 2015
    3,334
    83
    I-get-around
    Any reason waterglass couldn't be used to hold the overshot card in place?

    Waterglass should work fine too, but it might not be as durable with rough handling. I'm sure you already know this, but waterglass was used in the 1800s to hold the overshot card in place when loading brass shotgun shells. Some cowboy shooters still go that route, but others use a strong, thin glue like Duco Cement. I used Duco Cement when making .410 Musket shot loads for my Ishapore Enfield riot shotgun.
     

    BehindBlueI's

    Grandmaster
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    29   0   0
    Oct 3, 2012
    25,903
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    I think you're making alot more out of it than is needed,
    Is some shot gonna get squashed, yep it is.. Are you gonna get some leading maybe ?? Could be, but remember most lead shot is coated with Graphite and that will supress most of the leading issues.
    Plus it's really a fun thing that can be used for small varmints dispatch when needed up close and personal in most cases.
    Guys have been loading this stuff for a long long time,
    You just don't ever hear about any problems..

    Interesting. I'm just asking questions as I've only used shot shells with the Speer capsules. Thanks for the info.
     

    Hkindiana

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Sep 19, 2010
    3,188
    149
    Southern Hills
    Waterglass should work fine too, but it might not be as durable with rough handling. I'm sure you already know this, but waterglass was used in the 1800s to hold the overshot card in place when loading brass shotgun shells. Some cowboy shooters still go that route, but others use a strong, thin glue like Duco Cement. I used Duco Cement when making .410 Musket shot loads for my Ishapore Enfield riot shotgun.

    I use a thin coating of rubber cement over my wads. Makes a nice, flexible, waterproof seal, and after a couple of days, it is dry to the touch.
     

    AmmoManAaron

    Master
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    37   0   0
    Feb 20, 2015
    3,334
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    I-get-around
    I use a thin coating of rubber cement over my wads. Makes a nice, flexible, waterproof seal, and after a couple of days, it is dry to the touch.

    Cool, I kinda guessed rubber cement would work, but haven't gotten around to trying it myself. It might be cheaper than Duco Cement (which comes in a metal tube that is handy for application, but not storage - it tends to dry out). I'll compare prices when my current supply of Duco runs out and may switch due to the storage issues (afterall, if you're losing product you're losing money).
     
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