The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[jeffsqartan]

What kind of changes you think it needs?
Looks pretty fun to me

I talked with a buddy of mine who has a competitive SN95. He might have a smidge more power than me, but otherwise my car should technically be more competitive. He's convinced that my car has way too much roll. Considering some of the pictures I have of the car, I would tend to agree.

The current plan is to reduce body roll. Do this by sourcing a cheap factory rear sway bar and mounting it under the one I already have. They've done something similar on their SN95 with good results. Next step is to ditch the factory-style end-links up front for a set of heim-style solid links. It's looking like I'll have to build those. No worries, I think it will be fun. Makes me wish I had a finger press brake, though. I do have my press, just not a brake component for it. Idk if I can make one or anything like that.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Haha, check out the roll in this picture. This is with the stiffest springs that H&R and Maximum Motorsports makes. Along with a full panhard bar and torque arm setup. It's wild.
I need to see if my buddy can go out with me this weekend and take some pictures of the car in a parking lot while under hard left and right turns. That way we can get some more "data" on what it's doing.

 

[thunderchicken]

Haha, check out the roll in this picture. This is with the stiffest springs that H&R and Maximum Motorsports makes. Along with a full panhard bar and torque arm setup. It's wild.
I need to see if my buddy can go out with me this weekend and take some pictures of the car in a parking lot while under hard left and right turns. That way we can get some more "data" on what it's doing.

Oh yeah she's just plain laying over. So you're going to basically have 2 rear sway bars?
Safe to assume it still has the factory front sway bar? Was this originally a 4 cylinder car or 5.0?

 

[jeffsqartan]

Oh yeah she's just plain laying over. So you're going to basically have 2 rear sway bars?
Safe to assume it still has the factory front sway bar? Was this originally a 4 cylinder car or 5.0?

According to the door VIN, it's originally a 5.0 with an automatic.
Both front and rear bars are original.

 

[Mounty09]

Weekend update from the HSM event up at Muncie.

I entered the 12.20 index class as the car has been several 12.2XXs so I thought it would be a great fit. My one big disadvantage was I have never worked on cutting a light. This class was a pro .500 tree. I was able to make two test hits before eliminations started.

1st Test pass R/T 0.138 60' 1.955 12.290@113.33
2nd Test pass R/T 0.577 60' 1.792 12.126@113.83

I know on the first pass I forgot to let off the 2 step button on the line so the car didn't leave the line the best. The 2nd pass I added 100RPM to the launch. I was sleeping at the tree.

1 round R/T 0.79 60' 1.69 12.764@90.49

I finally cut an ok light! My opponent was sleeping at the tree and had a 1.033 R/T. At the 1/8th I looked back and she was nowhere to be found so I let out so I wouldn't breakout.

2nd round R/T 0.198 60' 1.69 12.004@112.40

Sleeping on the light a bit. My opponent had a 0.044 light. I was out in front just before the finish line and stabbed the brakes. I broke out pretty bad. He ran a 12.223 and ended up winning the 12.20 class.

It was a fun day and will probably do it next month if they have it but I might not enter a class and just do testing on a good prepped track with nitrous. I got a new PB with the 12.004 and stabbing the brakes off of the juice. Any day the car drives back on the trailer not broken is a good day!

 

[thunderchicken]

Weekend update from the HSM event up at Muncie.

I entered the 12.20 index class as the car has been several 12.2XXs so I thought it would be a great fit. My one big disadvantage was I have never worked on cutting a light. This class was a pro .500 tree. I was able to make two test hits before eliminations started.

1st Test pass R/T 0.138 60' 1.955 12.290@113.33
2nd Test pass R/T 0.577 60' 1.792 12.126@113.83

I know on the first pass I forgot to let off the 2 step button on the line so the car didn't leave the line the best. The 2nd pass I added 100RPM to the launch. I was sleeping at the tree.

1 round R/T 0.79 60' 1.69 12.764@90.49

I finally cut an ok light! My opponent was sleeping at the tree and had a 1.033 R/T. At the 1/8th I looked back and she was nowhere to be found so I let out so I wouldn't breakout.

2nd round R/T 0.198 60' 1.69 12.004@112.40

Sleeping on the light a bit. My opponent had a 0.044 light. I was out in front just before the finish line and stabbed the brakes. I broke out pretty bad. He ran a 12.223 and ended up winning the 12.20 class.

It was a fun day and will probably do it next month if they have it but I might not enter a class and just do testing on a good prepped track with nitrous. I got a new PB with the 12.004 and stabbing the brakes off of the juice. Any day the car drives back on the trailer not broken is a good day!

I was just about to message you and see how it went. Sounds like you had a pretty darn good day. So 12.004 after getting on the brakes, leads me to believe it would have likely been in the mid to high 11.90's. Congrats on the new PB

 

[Mounty09]

I was just about to message you and see how it went. Sounds like you had a pretty darn good day. So 12.004 after getting on the brakes, leads me to believe it would have likely been in the mid to high 11.90's. Congrats on the new PB

Thanks! I really think it would have gotten into the 11s if I hadn't gotten on the brakes.

Thinking about my staging routine, I am trying to think how I could do it better. Starting to think about adding a 2nd line lock and putting it on the rear brakes. Then have both line locks and the 2 step activated by one button. Once I release the button, line locks come off and car goes to full rpm. I also just got the parking brake working, I've thought about using this to hold the car at the light. I haven't done any testing with it yet though. Just brain storming right now.

I know the easy thing to do is to use a trans brake. Currently there is a guy working on a valvebody for this trans that is auto shift and has a trans brake. He is hoping to release it next year. I don't know if it is something I am wanting.

 

[thunderchicken]

Thanks! I really think it would have gotten into the 11s if I hadn't gotten on the brakes.

Thinking about my staging routine, I am trying to think how I could do it better. Starting to think about adding a 2nd line lock and putting it on the rear brakes. Then have both line locks and the 2 step activated by one button. Once I release the button, line locks come off and car goes to full rpm. I also just got the parking brake working, I've thought about using this to hold the car at the light. I haven't done any testing with it yet though. Just brain storming right now.

I know the easy thing to do is to use a trans brake. Currently there is a guy working on a valvebody for this trans that is auto shift and has a trans brake. He is hoping to release it next year. I don't know if it is something I am wanting.

Just MHO, forget about the parking brake. Trying to release the line lock and a park brake handle will only slow you down. The handle requires releasing the button and handle which is a two step process. The downside to having the line lock button control all 4 brakes is it would lock all 4 when you want to do the burnout. So you would have to add a switch to be able to turn off the rear line lock solenoid. That's easy enough but does add another step to the starting line procedure. Otherwise, it's a better idea.
The starting line procedure can be chaotic enough, don't add anything that's not necessary.

Yes a trans brake makes it easier to leave the line in the desired RPM range.

 

[Brad69]

Wife ran a 6.41 @108 with a 1.48 60 ft Saturday.
Her Hoosier's are working better than the M/T.
US 60 has new owners and have a $35 Saturday and you can run 3 classes.
BTW in bracket racing I am 3-0 against the wife.

I won factory stock at Windy hollow a few weeks ago.

 

[thunderchicken]

Wife ran a 6.41 @108 with a 1.48 60 ft Saturday.
Her Hoosier's are working better than the M/T.
US 60 has new owners and have a $35 Saturday and you can run 3 classes.
BTW in bracket racing I am 3-0 against the wife.

I won factory stock at Windy hollow a few weeks ago.

I haven't raced at US 60 since 2007. But, it was always a fast track that worked well. Only downsides I recall were the facilities left a bit to be desired.
If you want to go to another great track give Ohio Valley a try. It's definitely one of my favorite tracks

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Don’t know if any of you guys have followed this build or not but it’s absolutely amazing. Took a Ferrari and garage built a time attack car over two years. Top shelf fabrication.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Don’t know if any of you guys have followed this build or not but it’s absolutely amazing. Took a Ferrari and garage built a time attack car over two years. Top shelf fabrication.



View attachment 282884

Oddly enough, I follow him on Instagram and haven't seen hardly anything about that car until he posted about it being done. Watched the track day video. That thing is so rad.

 

[Mounty09]

Don't know if I have posted about it before or not but I also have a 2005 Mustang GT with a Saleen supercharger on it. It makes about 500 whp on 7.5-8.5# of boost. In the beginning of June I had to pull the blower off as it was leaking oil from the front snout. I took it to Brenspeed in Northern Indiana to rebuild it. This is the 2nd rebuild on the blower since new, it has about 40k miles on it. First rebuild was done at 30k because a seal went out on the snout. I had a different company rebuild it and they asked if I wanted to replace the snout bearings as they felt fine but showed signs of wear. I was already tapped out with how much it was costing so I decided not to replace them. Forward to this summer, 10k miles after the first rebuild and the snout starts leaking again. Pulled it off and found out Brenspeed can rebuild them which saved me about $500 in shipping! Turns out the bearings in the snout went bad, took out the shaft and the snout housing... Guess I should have replaced them back at the first rebuild.

Just got the supercharger back on and took it for a spin today. It was only making 3#'s and sometimes jumping up to 8-8.5#. Get home to check it out and heard a pop sound. These blowers have a bypass valve so when you aren't making boost the air bypasses the screw of the blower. For some reason this valve is getting stuck open and not shutting under boost. They send very specific instructions to not adjust this valve. Plan is to call Brenspeed on Monday to see what they have to say.

I will say was pretty cool feeling the car instantly go from 3# to 8#. Crazy what 5# will do!

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Don't know if I have posted about it before or not but I also have a 2005 Mustang GT with a Saleen supercharger on it. It makes about 500 whp on 7.5-8.5# of boost. In the beginning of June I had to pull the blower off as it was leaking oil from the front snout. I took it to Brenspeed in Northern Indiana to rebuild it. This is the 2nd rebuild on the blower since new, it has about 40k miles on it. First rebuild was done at 30k because a seal went out on the snout. I had a different company rebuild it and they asked if I wanted to replace the snout bearings as they felt fine but showed signs of wear. I was already tapped out with how much it was costing so I decided not to replace them. Forward to this summer, 10k miles after the first rebuild and the snout starts leaking again. Pulled it off and found out Brenspeed can rebuild them which saved me about $500 in shipping! Turns out the bearings in the snout went bad, took out the shaft and the snout housing... Guess I should have replaced them back at the first rebuild.

Just got the supercharger back on and took it for a spin today. It was only making 3#'s and sometimes jumping up to 8-8.5#. Get home to check it out and heard a pop sound. These blowers have a bypass valve so when you aren't making boost the air bypasses the screw of the blower. For some reason this valve is getting stuck open and not shutting under boost. They send very specific instructions to not adjust this valve. Plan is to call Brenspeed on Monday to see what they have to say.

I will say was pretty cool feeling the car instantly go from 3# to 8#. Crazy what 5# will do!

Had a similar setup on a Challenger I had. The bypass valve on mine was based off of manifold vacuum/rpm. It was more of a torque management strategy to save the stock bottom end.

 

[Mounty09]

Today I called Brenspeed who rebuilt the supercharger and talked to them about my boost issue. He confirmed that I needed to adjust the bypass valve. I adjusted it some and took it for a spin. Building boost now! Boost still seems to kind of turn on so I will call Brenspeed back tomorrow to further discuss.

@jeffsquartan came over Sunday to discuss my Holley Terminator X Max install on my Foxbody. Hopefully I was able to sway him in the right direction. Took him for a quick cruise and had to mark my territory on the local burnout road. I'd say I have them all beat!

 

[jeffsqartan]

Thanks again for having me out! I got home literally right as the rain started falling lol.
Man, after riding in your car I'm stoked to get mine done. I'm 100% sold on the Terminator for the engine. I'm still on the fence about the terminator controlling the transmission. It's not THAT much more to get the Quick Shift controller and everyone seems to really like them. I think, for a starter setup, the X Max will do just fine and get the car moving.

Worst case, I can always sell the X Max and downgrade to a regular terminator, right? Haha

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Call me crazy but I just don’t see a quarter million in this one…..

1955 Chevrolet Bel Air/150/210 | eBay

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[Mounty09]

That's alot of money for something that doesn't seem the special to me. I'd much rather have something like this for much less.

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[gregkl]

Call me crazy but I just don’t see a quarter million in this one…..

1955 Chevrolet Bel Air/150/210 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air/150/210 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Not even close to what I would consider.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Not even close to what I would consider.

Used LS1. Turbo 350. Interior’s not that special. Even if the body and paint are pristine. That’s a $30k-$40k car all day.