I got out to the range today and put a few rounds through my new P365 SAS. I’ll start by saying recoil-wise I didn’t notice a huge difference between the SAS and my regular P365 but I didn’t shoot them back to back for comparison. I also don’t mind having to slingshot the slide after inserting a loaded magazine when the gun runs empty and the slide locks back. That’s how I do it anyway.
Before I took it out to the range I put a magnetic laser bore sighter on the muzzle and it looked like the gun should shoot a bit low and to the right of point of aim, probably an inch or two at 7 to 10 yards and, consequently, 2 or 6 inches to the right at 25 yards. The sight is supposed to be non-adjustable, more on those points later...
I didn’t field strip it before shooting it, I just pulled it out of the plastic bag and fired away (that factory lube is smoky!). The trigger (both pull and reset) is identical to my born-on December 18, 2018 P365 which is to say very good. I was shooting outside in bright light so the Meorolight FT Bullseye sight was super bright and easy to align. I knew going in that this, and most most Sig handguns use a combat hold which means point of impact should be centered on the front sight dot (or in this case the only sight dot, surrounded by a concentric ring). There is no “sight radius”, so to speak. Several have complained about the slide (with embedded sight) covering the target but I really don’t see any difference between that and the front and rear sight blades covering the target because the rear sight blade is usually almost as wide as the slide anyway.
The attached images show 5 consecutive 10-shot groups on freshly-painted steel at 7 yards. All were slow-fire, done unsupported, standing, with a two hand isosceles stance. I consider myself OK shooting in this mode and downright terrible when speed shooting, mostly due to being really nervous and jittery at Friday Night Steel. I definitely have to get over that and maybe get a shot timer and go to work in the meantime, maybe starting with controlled pairs and working my way up from there.
I know this pistol in general and sighting system in particular have gotten a lot of really mixed reviews lately but I can tell you I really like it, at least in daylight conditions. I will have to try it in low light, maybe on an indoor range with no in-bay lighting first, before I can form an opinion on the low-light efficacy of this sight.
It is important to note here that I am blind in one eye so this FT Bullseye (or a red dot for that matter) do not “paint” the target the way they would with someone shooting with both eyes open, which I understand to be a big advantage of this over conventional sights. I handed the pistol to a couple of people at the range and they both said “wow!”. Even within one eye, I find it a big advantage to only have to focus on one thing, the green dot and circle. There is no having to acquire the front sight and then bring the rear sight into alignment with the front sight in focus and the rear sight and target out of focus. Put the dot in the circle, cover the target, squeeze, and bang-ding!
It’s so easy a caveman (or a total nOOb) could do it. And one really nice thing I noticed about it is the instant feedback it gives about your trigger press. You can literally see the dot being pulled toward the circle with a bad trigger press. And the shot goes in the direction of this convergence. If the dot and circle converge at 12 o’clock your shot goes high. If they converge at 5 o’clock your shot goes mostly low and a bit to the right. Super simple. This also makes feedback during dry firing just as valuable.
Back to the non-adjustability of this sight... I called Sig when I noticed it appeared to be off a bit and the CSR told me the sight is only guaranteed to hit a torso target at 7 yards. It certainly does that with no problems. I asked if I could crack the screws loose and maybe move the sight a little bit to correct the windage error. I got a warning about voiding the warranty so I just took it to the range and shot it. I may still try that but from what I understand they use some pretty stout threadlocker on those screws so I would probably have to heat them with a pencil tip soldering iron before trying to loosen them. The sight also causes the pistol to shoot slightly low. The only remedy I see for that is to maybe shim or put some punch marks on the bottom side of the sight behind the screws. I will know more if and when I take the sight off and I will post images if I try to “zero” it.
For now I’m pretty happy to be shooting four out of five of those plates with a 2 inch group or less and one at 3 inches or less first time out. That more than meets the requirements for a defensive handgun at practical combat distances. As for speed of acquisition and how this sighting system affects a fast shooter, I’m not the guy to ask. But don’t let anyone tell you you can’t be accurate enough in a combat situation with this sight, you can, at least under the conditions described.
Before I took it out to the range I put a magnetic laser bore sighter on the muzzle and it looked like the gun should shoot a bit low and to the right of point of aim, probably an inch or two at 7 to 10 yards and, consequently, 2 or 6 inches to the right at 25 yards. The sight is supposed to be non-adjustable, more on those points later...
I didn’t field strip it before shooting it, I just pulled it out of the plastic bag and fired away (that factory lube is smoky!). The trigger (both pull and reset) is identical to my born-on December 18, 2018 P365 which is to say very good. I was shooting outside in bright light so the Meorolight FT Bullseye sight was super bright and easy to align. I knew going in that this, and most most Sig handguns use a combat hold which means point of impact should be centered on the front sight dot (or in this case the only sight dot, surrounded by a concentric ring). There is no “sight radius”, so to speak. Several have complained about the slide (with embedded sight) covering the target but I really don’t see any difference between that and the front and rear sight blades covering the target because the rear sight blade is usually almost as wide as the slide anyway.
The attached images show 5 consecutive 10-shot groups on freshly-painted steel at 7 yards. All were slow-fire, done unsupported, standing, with a two hand isosceles stance. I consider myself OK shooting in this mode and downright terrible when speed shooting, mostly due to being really nervous and jittery at Friday Night Steel. I definitely have to get over that and maybe get a shot timer and go to work in the meantime, maybe starting with controlled pairs and working my way up from there.
I know this pistol in general and sighting system in particular have gotten a lot of really mixed reviews lately but I can tell you I really like it, at least in daylight conditions. I will have to try it in low light, maybe on an indoor range with no in-bay lighting first, before I can form an opinion on the low-light efficacy of this sight.
It is important to note here that I am blind in one eye so this FT Bullseye (or a red dot for that matter) do not “paint” the target the way they would with someone shooting with both eyes open, which I understand to be a big advantage of this over conventional sights. I handed the pistol to a couple of people at the range and they both said “wow!”. Even within one eye, I find it a big advantage to only have to focus on one thing, the green dot and circle. There is no having to acquire the front sight and then bring the rear sight into alignment with the front sight in focus and the rear sight and target out of focus. Put the dot in the circle, cover the target, squeeze, and bang-ding!
It’s so easy a caveman (or a total nOOb) could do it. And one really nice thing I noticed about it is the instant feedback it gives about your trigger press. You can literally see the dot being pulled toward the circle with a bad trigger press. And the shot goes in the direction of this convergence. If the dot and circle converge at 12 o’clock your shot goes high. If they converge at 5 o’clock your shot goes mostly low and a bit to the right. Super simple. This also makes feedback during dry firing just as valuable.
Back to the non-adjustability of this sight... I called Sig when I noticed it appeared to be off a bit and the CSR told me the sight is only guaranteed to hit a torso target at 7 yards. It certainly does that with no problems. I asked if I could crack the screws loose and maybe move the sight a little bit to correct the windage error. I got a warning about voiding the warranty so I just took it to the range and shot it. I may still try that but from what I understand they use some pretty stout threadlocker on those screws so I would probably have to heat them with a pencil tip soldering iron before trying to loosen them. The sight also causes the pistol to shoot slightly low. The only remedy I see for that is to maybe shim or put some punch marks on the bottom side of the sight behind the screws. I will know more if and when I take the sight off and I will post images if I try to “zero” it.
For now I’m pretty happy to be shooting four out of five of those plates with a 2 inch group or less and one at 3 inches or less first time out. That more than meets the requirements for a defensive handgun at practical combat distances. As for speed of acquisition and how this sighting system affects a fast shooter, I’m not the guy to ask. But don’t let anyone tell you you can’t be accurate enough in a combat situation with this sight, you can, at least under the conditions described.
Attachments
-
93B4F1E6-BA41-4F5F-B4A3-C61605A5A9D8.jpeg19.6 KB · Views: 16
-
CCCF2A90-0D29-460B-92B3-203275352D8D.jpeg18.8 KB · Views: 18
-
6293E5BF-C02B-4FE1-BFF2-BDFF4C21B468.jpeg21.2 KB · Views: 15
-
D0E75ED0-656E-4B75-A72B-6A7A7D15831B.jpeg19.7 KB · Views: 15
-
C4312817-543F-49E2-8A53-F58F50A89C3B.jpeg17.8 KB · Views: 14
Last edited: