Range Time: S/W 642 and 10-7 38 specials

[doddg]

Sorry, don't know how to change the title which should be: 64-7 (the 10-8 is what I sold and bought the 64-7).

Love my S/W 4 inch 38 special SS 64-7 for the range.
Hate my J frame SS 642 Airweight: total workout and no fun to shoot at the range, but that is not what it is intended for.
I guess that makes me a sissy since I see real men who seem to be enjoying themselves in the youtube vids.

Since my small 38 is for pocket carry only, I wonder what else is out there that doesn't beat up my hand as much to fire in a 38.
I hear that the Ruger LCR is a great gun, perhaps better than the 642 to hang onto when shooting: don't know, but I'd like to rent one to find out.
If anyone has experience with another small 38 revolver that is the same size or maybe only a little bigger but controls the recoil better, let me know: it must be a pocket carry: fairly light and still fairly small.
I have a feeling I'll have to give up light to keep small.

In another anomaly, after putting shells through the 64-7 larger Smith, it was getting difficult getting the chamber open after pushing the cylinder release b/c the ejector rod was catching on the metal under the barrel at the end of the ejector rod, and then finally the impossibility of shutting it b/c the ejector rod was longer than the space allowed for it to go back under the barrel when pushing the loaded cylinder back into position for firing.

Thinking it was something stupid-easy to adjust I called the range officer over and he said he'd never seen anything like it in a Smith.
I thought to myself: this is a simple mechanical action, it can't be anything difficult so as to have to mail it to S/W and wait 2 months to get it back over a simple fix.
You could tell that the ejector rod was not going in as much as it used to b/c of the "fresh" shiner metal at the end of the rod before it shoves up into the cylinder to eject the shells.
I kept pushing the ejector rod in and out to see what I could see and how it functioned.
I grabbed hold of the ejector rod on the other side of the cylinder (where the shells load) holding it fast then simply screwed other end of the ejector rod into where it was supposed to be, by holding the other end of the ejector rod so it wouldn't just keep spinning when you turned it, therefore simply screwing in the ejector rod that was becoming loose/unscrewed.
Unbelievably simple.
I need to snug it up with a gripping tool that won't mark up the metal so it won't work it way loose again.

I proceeded to fire another few cylinders through it w/o an issue.

 

[Steel and wood]

The ejector rod does at times becomes loose. I have a 686+ that did that also. I am sure someone will tell you what to do to fix it. But when I called S&W they told me to just put a SMALL drop of locktight (red) on the threads that back out if it does it again.
Well it has never done it again that was 1 year ago.

 

[gregkl]

I have had the same experience. I would use Blue Loctite though as it will hold it fine and make it easier to take apart when you want to do a full detail clean.

Though S&W states SMALL drop so Red might be fine.

My brother has an LCR and he likes it better than the 642. He did put a set of G10 grips on it though due to the rubber grips that came on the LCR catching his clothing. He claims the felt recoil is better with the LCR. According to him, he gets a little more of his pinky finger on the gun vs the 642.

I am thinking of getting a 642 but that is only because lately I have been doing a lot (too much possibly?) studying on carrying a revolver vs. semi-auto. My Shield has been fine and it shoots much softer than the small revolvers do. I can shoot as much as I want with the Shield at the range and be fine. When I had a snub nose, I would shoot about 30 rounds and call it a day and switch to my full size guns.

Personally I can't get past the feel of the LCR and the trigger. It just feels like a toy to me. I am sure it's a perfectly serviceable and dependable firearm, but I'm still affected by a dose of vanity and like the feel and looks of the 642 better, not to mention the trigger.

I would like to shoot a BUG match one day with my Shield. I think that would be fun and good training. But I don't see those around much.

 

[mcapo]

I'd stick with Blue loctite.

As to your Airweight...as you know weight absorbs recoil. You can look at other J-Frame options like a Model 60 or the next option is moving up in size to a K-Frame like a Model 19?

In the meantime, look at grips options for your J frame. Everyone is different and grips can make a huge difference.

My Model 60 wears a grip similar to this...kinda big and meaty but works well. Mine were bought in 1980's and still going strong.

 

[Salty]

I have the LCR in 357. A little heavier and you can still use 38 special. Also, I put a Hogue boot grip on mine which makes it a little smaller. Something to consider.
LCR 357 is 17.1 oz
LCR 38+P is 13.5 oz
642 38+P is 14.4 oz
Google lcr 357 with boot grip images

 

[doddg]

The ejector rod does at times becomes loose. I have a 686+ that did that also. I am sure someone will tell you what to do to fix it. But when I called S&W they told me to just put a SMALL drop of locktight (red) on the threads that back out if it does it again.
Well it has never done it again that was 1 year ago.

1. Thanks for the heads-up!

I have had the same experience. I would use Blue Loctite though as it will hold it fine and make it easier to take apart when you want to do a full detail clean.

Though S&W states SMALL drop so Red might be fine.

My brother has an LCR and he likes it better than the 642. He did put a set of G10 grips on it though due to the rubber grips that came on the LCR catching his clothing. He claims the felt recoil is better with the LCR. According to him, he gets a little more of his pinky finger on the gun vs the 642.

2. I thought grips could make big difference if I knew which ones to get.
3. I read the same thing about the LCR recoil.
4. I just called Point Bland Rangle in Carmel, and they don't have one on rental: bummer.

I am thinking of getting a 642 but that is only because lately I have been doing a lot (too much possibly?) studying on carrying a revolver vs. semi-auto. My Shield has been fine and it shoots much softer than the small revolvers do. I can shoot as much as I want with the Shield at the range and be fine. When I had a snub nose, I would shoot about 30 rounds and call it a day and switch to my full size guns.

5. Glad to see you feel my anguish.

Personally I can't get past the feel of the LCR and the trigger. It just feels like a toy to me. I am sure it's a perfectly serviceable and dependable firearm, but I'm still affected by a dose of vanity and like the feel and looks of the 642 better, not to mention the trigger.

6. Don't care about looks or trigger feel: just recoil and whether I can pocket carry in my DeSanti Superfly sticky holster w/flap.

I would like to shoot a BUG match one day with my Shield. I think that would be fun and good training. But I don't see those around much.

I'd stick with Blue loctite.

As to your Airweight...as you know weight absorbs recoil. You can look at other J-Frame options like a Model 10 or the next option is moving up in size to a K-Frame like a Model 19?

In the meantime, look at grips options for your J frame. Everyone is different and grips can make a huge difference.

My Model 10 wears a grip similar to this...kinda big and meaty but works well. Mine were bought in 1980's and still going strong.

I have the LCR in 357. A little heavier and you can still use 38 special. Also, I put a Hogue boot grip on mine which makes it a little smaller. Something to consider.
LCR 357 is 17.1 oz
LCR 38+P is 13.5 oz
642 38+P is 14.4 oz
Google lcr 357 with boot grip images

7. I was wondering if there is a "meatier" pocket carry or if a 3 inch barrel would help recoil, but it probably would be too much OAL and/or to tall.
8. Sweet looking model 10

 

[IUprof]

I don't know if I can add anything new, but my 642 air weight kicks like a mule with 38+P. I put hogue rubber grips on and it helps, but many would say they are harder to conceal. For CC I much prefer my Shield, although I haven't reached a point of selling the 642 because it is a good pocket carry and I can hit center of mass at 7 yards so it would be effective.

 

[mcapo]

Meant model 60 not 10...limited sleep...minimal coffee...

 

[indiucky]

Meant model 60 not 10...limited sleep...minimal coffee...

That's okay...OP meant Model 64 instead of Model 10-7 SS....

 

[Bosshoss]

PLEASE don't use loctite anywhere on a revolver. I spend way to much time cleaning that crap off when a customers brings a gun in.
Look at the threads on a ejector rod, they are very small and loctite can destroy these threads. Never use red on anything that will need to come apart and blue is for 1/4 inch and up bolts(IIRC) and not tiny screws on a revolver.

I have had many revolvers come in the shop and have the sideplate screws standing to high and be above the sideplate. What happens is someone take the screw out to remove sideplate and puts a drop(or more) of loctite on the screw and puts it back in. When it screws in the loctite is squeezed up the threades as the screw is threaded in. It make a thin layer of loctite under the screw head. This repeated several times will make a thick layer that keeps the screw head from bottoming out. Have seen this so thick on the yoke screw that the cylinder would keep falling out because the yoke screw was held up so high by loctite under it.

If you tighten them properly with a proper fitting screwdriver or ejector rod tool they wont come loose. If they do it is time to replace the screw or rod.
Ejector rod is left hand thread unless the gun is early 60's or older and then it is right hand thread.
Be careful tightening ejector rod as you can bend it fairly easily.

BTW a model 60 J frame is almost as comfortable to shoot as a model 10 IMO.

 

[doddg]

That's okay...OP meant Model 64 instead of Model 10-7 SS....

1. Oh that's funny!
2. I've been so busy putting in ads and correcting them, and doing yard work (still have some more today) that I hadn't noticed.
3. Yes, I sold the older 10-8 and bought a newer 64-7.

 

[doddg]

PLEASE don't use loctite anywhere on a revolver. I spend way to much time cleaning that crap off when a customers brings a gun in.
Look at the threads on a ejector rod, they are very small and loctite can destroy these threads. Never use red on anything that will need to come apart and blue is for 1/4 inch and up bolts(IIRC) and not tiny screws on a revolver.

I have had many revolvers come in the shop and have the sideplate screws standing to high and be above the sideplate. What happens is someone take the screw out to remove sideplate and puts a drop(or more) of loctite on the screw and puts it back in. When it screws in the loctite is squeezed up the threades as the screw is threaded in. It make a thin layer of loctite under the screw head. This repeated several times will make a thick layer that keeps the screw head from bottoming out. Have seen this so thick on the yoke screw that the cylinder would keep falling out because the yoke screw was held up so high by loctite under it.

If you tighten them properly with a proper fitting screwdriver or ejector rod tool they wont come loose. If they do it is time to replace the screw or rod.
Ejector rod is left hand thread unless the gun is early 60's or older and then it is right hand thread.
Be careful tightening ejector rod as you can bend it fairly easily.

BTW a model 60 J frame is almost as comfortable to shoot as a model 10 IMO.

1. Thanks for heads-up!
2. I wasn't going to put loctite in anyway since it doesn't come from the factory that way.
3. I was going to simply snug it up again after using my vice-like grip , with a small gripping tool of some sort (needle nose pliers over a cloth).

 

[doddg]

I don't know if I can add anything new, but my 642 air weight kicks like a mule with 38+P. I put hogue rubber grips on and it helps, but many would say they are harder to conceal. For CC I much prefer my Shield, although I haven't reached a point of selling the 642 because it is a good pocket carry and I can hit center of mass at 7 yards so it would be effective.

1. Yes, I need to buy grips that still fit my pocket holster.
2. I have a flap that comes up past the handle (and in front of it) to really cover up the imprinting of the grip (DeSanti Superfly pocket holster sticky w/flap).