Progressive press?

[574mag]

I have a Lee single stage press. Like it well enough. Only my second year reloading. Was thinking about going to a progressive press? Thoughts? Recommendations? I would t want to have to buy all new dies!

 

[Michigan Slim]

Dillon 550 have been my go-to presses for many years. I load 9mm to .45-70 on them.

 

[574mag]

Thx, I will start my search there.

 

[canebreaker]

I have 2 Lee Loadmasters. I load 38spl, 9mm and 40S&W.
As long as they stays in cam, a 2nd person loading a spare primer tray and a 3rd person loading cases and bullets they can load 950 per hour.
We've done that twice.

 

[Leo]

I will also endorse the Dillon 550 press. I bought mine in 1995. I bought die plates for every caliber I reloaded, and left the properly adjusted die set in each one. That made caliber changes a couple minute job.

I still kept a single stage press for low volume work, like hunting rifle rounds or developing a new target load. The Redding boss fills the need there.

 

[Xterminator]

My vote Dillon. I've never seen anyone sell their Dillon to get Lee, rcbs or Hornady press. I have the 550 and running 400-500rds per hour is plenty

 

[BROBERTS]

Started with lee load master and moved up to a dillon 650 over 25 years ago. They just replace a broken spring for free 25 years later. Sold the lee. You start off thinking you are saving money. But then you start shooting more!!

 

[574mag]

I can’t imagine loading 4-500 an hour. lol

 

[shootersix]

My top 3 recommendations would be

1dillon
2dillon
3dillon

And if you ask me for a 4th, I’d say Dillon

I have a 750, and it’s built like a tank, it’s overkill for me, people recommended the 550 and that was what I was going to buy, but as a Father’s Day present my wife and daughters got me the 750, there’s a learning curve but when you learn it it’s a great press!

 

[42253]

I say if you have Lee equipment get Dillon. Then sell me your Lee for cheap on the classified. I have 3 Lee progressive presses that I got for almost nothing and they all work great for me. Was just wondering what is the big hurry with reloading? You can pump them out real fast with a Dillon but can you watch your quality. I say to each his own. I like to make sure of what I am doing.

 

[VERT]

Buy a Dillon 550. Keep the Lee single stage press. A 550 next to a single stage will load anything you need. Lee dies work fine in the 550. You can even use the Lee powder measure.

 

[Waldog]

Which is Better? What’s best?

I wrote this us a couple years back so the prices may not be accurate. And, I understand that Dillon now has a updated some of their presses. In spite of that, I still stand by my talking points.

This question usually ignites a firestorm of of "Blue verses Red verses etc." What you are not going to find is very many people that have actually loaded on BOTH DILLON AND HORNADY. I have loaded on the Dillon SDB, 550, 650, 1050 and the Hornady LNL.
I currently own a Hornady LNL, Dillon SDB, several RCBS single stage presses and, Ponsness Warren & 800+, 375 Du-o-matic and, Hornady 366 shotshell presses.

Here is my perspective: (it's neither right, or wrong, JUST MY OPINION. Opinions are like feet, most everyone has a couple and sometimes they stink. LOL!!)

Consider the Hornady Lock and Load Progressive. It’s cheaper than the Dillon and has several features that, IMHO are better than Dillon.

Dillon Precision has been on the market since late 1970’s or early 1980 and have set the standard for outstanding customer service. Hornady started business in 1949 producing bullets. In 1971 they started producing reloading equipment. Dillon’s unlimited lifetime warranty is well known. As a result of customer service, Dillon users are very dedicated to their blue presses. Other manufacturers have since copied Dillon’s wonderful customer service. Speaking from experience, Hornady’s customer service is equal to Dillon.

Dillon presses are EXCEPTIONAL and do an exceptional job reloading. The competition to the Dillon is the Hornady Lock and Load Auto Progressive. Because most of the Dillon users are so satisfied, when you ask the question “Which is better?”, you get swamped with comments like, "The Hornady LNL is Junk!" If you asked if they have ever loaded on the LNL and 99.9% said no. When I did find someone that had experience with both presses, most liked the LNL and many had sold their Dillon's and bought the LNL. However, there have been those that sold their red presses and bought blue. I can also unequivocally state, based on my experience, that HORNADY has equal customer service. You just have to decide what you like best. Some times it’s just the color, red or blue!!

IMHO the Dillon has one major shortcoming and, most Dillon owners will agree if they are honest. The Dillon powder measure is sorely lacking in ease of use and adjustability. It is sliding bar type measure. It meters ball type powder well but, flake type powder less so. Extruded stick type powder is troublesome and not all that accurate. To be fair, extruded powder is difficult in all powder measures, irregardless of design. Be advised that flake powder has been known to “leak” around the Dillon sliding bar as it is activated back and forth. Particularly if the sliding bar is worn. The LNL powder measure is a rotary barrel design that handles all types of powder MUCH better than the Dillon. A rotary barrel is the same design used by RCBS, Sinclair and other manufacturers. I have never heard of a rotary type measure “leak”. Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. There is no need. It is easy to adjust. Many LNL owners, myself included, own several "Powder Dies" that are pre-adjusted to load a specific case. (Note: The powder die fits into the outlet of the powder measure.) Each LNL powder die costs about $20. A Dillon powder measure costs $75.

Also, IMHO, the Dillon de-priming/priming system is less reliable than the LNL. With the Dillon system, spent primers drop through the bottom of the shell plate into a small cup. It is an “open” system and is easy to empty. However, the press gets dirty with carbon. Whenever carbon/dust/dirt or “primer dust” fouls the primer seating station this causes "flipped" or "skipped" primers. The DILLON de-priming system works well provided it is kept CLEAN. With the Hornady LNL, spent primers are dropped completely through the press into a plastic tube and into the trash or bottle or whatever you want to use. It is a “closed” system. You never get carbon in and around the bottom of the shell plate. The point is the dirt off the spent primers does not foul the workings of the press. I have never had a “flipped” primer. Although, I have had “missed” primers that I feel were operator error (ME!) and not the fault of the primer system. (I forgot to seat the primer!) In all fairness, the LNL primer seating station will also not work properly if the primer slide is fouled with dirt or powder. Please note that neither Dillon or LNL primer systems will work flawlessly unless they are adjusted properly. Users of BOTH systems have expressed exasperation with these adjustments.

If you want a “Powder Check” system you need a press with at least five stations. The Dillon Square Deal and Dillon 550 both have 4 die stations. The LNL and Dillon 650 both have 5 stations. However, the 650 costs significantly more than the LNL. The Dillon 1050 is really an industrial machine and has eight stations.

How the presses indexes is an issue for some people. In reading the web about "KABOOMS" (Blowing up a gun!!), many of the kabooms I have read about were directly traced back to a manually indexing press. This is not the fault of the press but, operator error. However, with a manually indexing press, If you get distracted while reloading, you can easily double charge a pistol case. (A double charge will depend on the powder you are using and the charge weight.) IMHO, a double charge is less of a problem with auto-indexing presses. The Hornady LNL, Dillon 650 and, Dillon Square Deal auto index. The MOST POPULAR Dillon press, the 550, is a manually indexing press. Some people prefer manual, some people prefer auto.

In addition, the LNL auto indexing is significantly smoother than the Dillon 650. The LNL indexes 1/2 step while the ram is going up and 1/2 step when the ram goes down. The 650 indexes a full step on the ram down stroke and can cause pistol cases to spill SMALL AMOUNTS or powder with the indexing "bump". IMHO, the LNL is dramatically better. Of course, the amount of powder "bumped" from a case is dependent on the powder charge, operator and, speed of reloading. As I stated above, you get primer problems with a dirty press. "Bumped" powder fouls BOTH Dillon and LNL.

Next, the LNL uses a really slick bushing system for mounting loading dies and powder measure to the press. It makes changing calibers and SNAP. After a die is adjusted for whatever you are loading you can remove the die from the press with an 1/8 turn and insert a different die. Each die has it's own bushing. The Dillon uses a die plate that has the powder measure and all loading dies installed. The Dillon die plate costs more than LNL bushings. Another neat feature with the Hornady is that you can buy a bushing conversion setup and use the same bushings on your RCBS, Lyman or other single stage press and the LNL!

Additionally, the LNL seems to be built like a tank! The ram is about 2"+ in diameter and the basic press is similar in construction to the RCBS Rock Chucker. I would say that a side-by-side comparison to the either the Dillon 550 OR 650, the LNL is at least as sturdily built. And, in some areas I think the LNL is better built. i.e., The massive ram, powder measure, and primer system. The head/top of the press is solid except for where the dies are inserted. The Dillon has a large cutout that is needed for their die plates. By just looking, it would seem the LNL would be stronger. But, of course, that may not be the case.

There is one piece that can get damaged on the LNL. There is a coil spring that holds the cases in the shell holder that can get crushed if you improperly change shell holders. That's the bad news. The good news is that they are only about $2-3 for three and they won't get crushed if you change shell plates correctly. Also, recently Hornady sends these out as a warranty item free of charge. The other good news is that this spring is the primary reason while loading you can easily remove a case at any station. The spring is durable if it is not abused. I have been using my current retainer spring for about 2 years. I have loaded at least 12,000 rounds in that time. With the Dillon you have to remove small individual brass pins in order to take a shell out of a shell plate. My fingers require needle-nose pliers or forceps to remove the brass pins. It is a PITA.

(For the next discussion keep in mind that BOTH DILLON AND LNL shell plates rotate CLOCKWISE.)

Another item to think about. For NON-CASE FEEDER users; all Dillon presses (Except 1050) require you to use BOTH hands to insert brass and bullets on the press. The Dillon 650, 550 and, SDB operates as follows;

1. Right hand inserts an empty case at the right, front side of the press.
2. Left hand then sets the bullet on the case mouth at the left, rear side of the press.
3. Right hand then activates the operating handle.
4. For Dillon 550 only, Left hand manually rotates shell plate.
5. You then release the operating handle and insert another case with your right hand and so forth. (Right, left, right, left, right, left)

(Note: With the Dillon 550 you also have to manually rotate the shell plate at step 4. Most people do this with their LEFT hand.)

With the Dillon, “right-left-right-left” hand operating procedure, clockwise rotation and, the fact that you start your loading process at the front, right side of the press, your bullet seating die is at the rear, left side of the press. Why is this important? The Dillon powder measure drops powder into the case and the case is rotated clockwise to the REAR of the press to the bullet seating die. It is very difficult to see inside of the case to see the gunpowder. Many Dillon owners rig up flashlight, mirror or, believe it or not, a video camera to “look” into the case to see the powder charge.

With the LNL you start your loading process at the REAR, left side of the press. As your case rotates clockwise, after the powder is dropped, your case is directly in the front of the press and the bullet is seated directly in front of the person operating the press. Is is VERY EASY to look directly into the case to see the powder charge. Even though I use a “Powder Check” die. I look directly into each case as I am loading. I have never had a squib load OR a double charge. This is not to say that it can’t happen. It can. I just haven’t experienced one.

Loading cases and bullets with the left hand is very natural to me. Others may really dislike this feature and prefer the right/left/right/left/right operation of Dillon. Please note that a case feeder eliminates this operation and both Dillon and LNL only load bullets on the left side of the press. Dillon at the back of the press and LNL at the front of the press.

Dillon Customer service is legendary. You can buy a used Dillon press that is a total wreak and they will rebuild or send you a new one for about $40-$50 bucks. Any parts you break will be replaced free of charge. Hornady service, in my experience, is equal. When I needed some replacement springs that broke do to age, Hornady replaced them free of charge. They will also rebuild your press if it needs it. I think most other manufacturers are matching Dillon’s service. Dillon raised the bar pretty high for customer service and other companies see how devoted customers are to the BLUE presses. I do feel that is one of the primary reasons Dillon’s prices are HIGH. But of course, I have no way of knowing that.

You can load anything on both the Dillon and LNL from .25 ACP to 500 N.E. Realistically, I would say that people with progressive loaders mostly load pistol ammo 99% of the time. After using the LNL, I feel confident that my Grandkids will be using when I'm gone.

In summary, the Hornady LNL has all the features of the Dillon 650 but, is much cheaper. However, the Dillon automatic case feeder is about $50 cheaper than the Hornady. Changing calipers on the LNL is faster and cheaper. The powder measure on the LNL is VASTLY SUPERIOR TO THE DILLON, at least in my opinion. I bought the LNL and am very satisfied. A shooting buddy of mine is a long time, dedicated Dillon user. He has three! After giving me a ration of "stuff" about my choice, he came over and used my LNL and sheepishly said, "That's a very nice setup!!" Good Luck on your search. You really can't go wrong with Blue or Red.

 

[spencer rifle]

I have only every used Lee turret presses and the Loadmaster. I'm pretty sure I'd like Dillon better, but the cheapest press to operate is the one I already have. The progressive requires periodic adjustment and an occasional clear of flipped primers, but I (alone - it's not a crew-served weapon for me) have loaded 225 rounds of 124 grain JHP in an hour. That includes reloading the case, bullet and primer feeders. The progressive is mostly devoted to pistol rounds, and the turret does rifle rounds.

 

[92FSTech]

Which is Better? What’s best?

I wrote this us a couple years back so the prices may not be accurate. And, I understand that Dillon now has a updated some of their presses. In spite of that, I still stand by my talking points.

This question usually ignites a firestorm of of "Blue verses Red verses etc." What you are not going to find is very many people that have actually loaded on BOTH DILLON AND HORNADY. I have loaded on the Dillon SDB, 550, 650, 1050 and the Hornady LNL.
I currently own a Hornady LNL, Dillon SDB, several RCBS single stage presses and, Ponsness Warren & 800+, 375 Du-o-matic and, Hornady 366 shotshell presses.

Here is my perspective: (it's neither right, or wrong, JUST MY OPINION. Opinions are like feet, most everyone has a couple and sometimes they stink. LOL!!)

Consider the Hornady Lock and Load Progressive. It’s cheaper than the Dillon and has several features that, IMHO are better than Dillon.

Dillon Precision has been on the market since late 1970’s or early 1980 and have set the standard for outstanding customer service. Hornady started business in 1949 producing bullets. In 1971 they started producing reloading equipment. Dillon’s unlimited lifetime warranty is well known. As a result of customer service, Dillon users are very dedicated to their blue presses. Other manufacturers have since copied Dillon’s wonderful customer service. Speaking from experience, Hornady’s customer service is equal to Dillon.

Dillon presses are EXCEPTIONAL and do an exceptional job reloading. The competition to the Dillon is the Hornady Lock and Load Auto Progressive. Because most of the Dillon users are so satisfied, when you ask the question “Which is better?”, you get swamped with comments like, "The Hornady LNL is Junk!" If you asked if they have ever loaded on the LNL and 99.9% said no. When I did find someone that had experience with both presses, most liked the LNL and many had sold their Dillon's and bought the LNL. However, there have been those that sold their red presses and bought blue. I can also unequivocally state, based on my experience, that HORNADY has equal customer service. You just have to decide what you like best. Some times it’s just the color, red or blue!!

IMHO the Dillon has one major shortcoming and, most Dillon owners will agree if they are honest. The Dillon powder measure is sorely lacking in ease of use and adjustability. It is sliding bar type measure. It meters ball type powder well but, flake type powder less so. Extruded stick type powder is troublesome and not all that accurate. To be fair, extruded powder is difficult in all powder measures, irregardless of design. Be advised that flake powder has been known to “leak” around the Dillon sliding bar as it is activated back and forth. Particularly if the sliding bar is worn. The LNL powder measure is a rotary barrel design that handles all types of powder MUCH better than the Dillon. A rotary barrel is the same design used by RCBS, Sinclair and other manufacturers. I have never heard of a rotary type measure “leak”. Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. There is no need. It is easy to adjust. Many LNL owners, myself included, own several "Powder Dies" that are pre-adjusted to load a specific case. (Note: The powder die fits into the outlet of the powder measure.) Each LNL powder die costs about $20. A Dillon powder measure costs $75.

Also, IMHO, the Dillon de-priming/priming system is less reliable than the LNL. With the Dillon system, spent primers drop through the bottom of the shell plate into a small cup. It is an “open” system and is easy to empty. However, the press gets dirty with carbon. Whenever carbon/dust/dirt or “primer dust” fouls the primer seating station this causes "flipped" or "skipped" primers. The DILLON de-priming system works well provided it is kept CLEAN. With the Hornady LNL, spent primers are dropped completely through the press into a plastic tube and into the trash or bottle or whatever you want to use. It is a “closed” system. You never get carbon in and around the bottom of the shell plate. The point is the dirt off the spent primers does not foul the workings of the press. I have never had a “flipped” primer. Although, I have had “missed” primers that I feel were operator error (ME!) and not the fault of the primer system. (I forgot to seat the primer!) In all fairness, the LNL primer seating station will also not work properly if the primer slide is fouled with dirt or powder. Please note that neither Dillon or LNL primer systems will work flawlessly unless they are adjusted properly. Users of BOTH systems have expressed exasperation with these adjustments.

If you want a “Powder Check” system you need a press with at least five stations. The Dillon Square Deal and Dillon 550 both have 4 die stations. The LNL and Dillon 650 both have 5 stations. However, the 650 costs significantly more than the LNL. The Dillon 1050 is really an industrial machine and has eight stations.

How the presses indexes is an issue for some people. In reading the web about "KABOOMS" (Blowing up a gun!!), many of the kabooms I have read about were directly traced back to a manually indexing press. This is not the fault of the press but, operator error. However, with a manually indexing press, If you get distracted while reloading, you can easily double charge a pistol case. (A double charge will depend on the powder you are using and the charge weight.) IMHO, a double charge is less of a problem with auto-indexing presses. The Hornady LNL, Dillon 650 and, Dillon Square Deal auto index. The MOST POPULAR Dillon press, the 550, is a manually indexing press. Some people prefer manual, some people prefer auto.

In addition, the LNL auto indexing is significantly smoother than the Dillon 650. The LNL indexes 1/2 step while the ram is going up and 1/2 step when the ram goes down. The 650 indexes a full step on the ram down stroke and can cause pistol cases to spill SMALL AMOUNTS or powder with the indexing "bump". IMHO, the LNL is dramatically better. Of course, the amount of powder "bumped" from a case is dependent on the powder charge, operator and, speed of reloading. As I stated above, you get primer problems with a dirty press. "Bumped" powder fouls BOTH Dillon and LNL.

Next, the LNL uses a really slick bushing system for mounting loading dies and powder measure to the press. It makes changing calibers and SNAP. After a die is adjusted for whatever you are loading you can remove the die from the press with an 1/8 turn and insert a different die. Each die has it's own bushing. The Dillon uses a die plate that has the powder measure and all loading dies installed. The Dillon die plate costs more than LNL bushings. Another neat feature with the Hornady is that you can buy a bushing conversion setup and use the same bushings on your RCBS, Lyman or other single stage press and the LNL!

Additionally, the LNL seems to be built like a tank! The ram is about 2"+ in diameter and the basic press is similar in construction to the RCBS Rock Chucker. I would say that a side-by-side comparison to the either the Dillon 550 OR 650, the LNL is at least as sturdily built. And, in some areas I think the LNL is better built. i.e., The massive ram, powder measure, and primer system. The head/top of the press is solid except for where the dies are inserted. The Dillon has a large cutout that is needed for their die plates. By just looking, it would seem the LNL would be stronger. But, of course, that may not be the case.

There is one piece that can get damaged on the LNL. There is a coil spring that holds the cases in the shell holder that can get crushed if you improperly change shell holders. That's the bad news. The good news is that they are only about $2-3 for three and they won't get crushed if you change shell plates correctly. Also, recently Hornady sends these out as a warranty item free of charge. The other good news is that this spring is the primary reason while loading you can easily remove a case at any station. The spring is durable if it is not abused. I have been using my current retainer spring for about 2 years. I have loaded at least 12,000 rounds in that time. With the Dillon you have to remove small individual brass pins in order to take a shell out of a shell plate. My fingers require needle-nose pliers or forceps to remove the brass pins. It is a PITA.

(For the next discussion keep in mind that BOTH DILLON AND LNL shell plates rotate CLOCKWISE.)

Another item to think about. For NON-CASE FEEDER users; all Dillon presses (Except 1050) require you to use BOTH hands to insert brass and bullets on the press. The Dillon 650, 550 and, SDB operates as follows;

1. Right hand inserts an empty case at the right, front side of the press.
2. Left hand then sets the bullet on the case mouth at the left, rear side of the press.
3. Right hand then activates the operating handle.
4. For Dillon 550 only, Left hand manually rotates shell plate.
5. You then release the operating handle and insert another case with your right hand and so forth. (Right, left, right, left, right, left)

(Note: With the Dillon 550 you also have to manually rotate the shell plate at step 4. Most people do this with their LEFT hand.)

With the Dillon, “right-left-right-left” hand operating procedure, clockwise rotation and, the fact that you start your loading process at the front, right side of the press, your bullet seating die is at the rear, left side of the press. Why is this important? The Dillon powder measure drops powder into the case and the case is rotated clockwise to the REAR of the press to the bullet seating die. It is very difficult to see inside of the case to see the gunpowder. Many Dillon owners rig up flashlight, mirror or, believe it or not, a video camera to “look” into the case to see the powder charge.

With the LNL you start your loading process at the REAR, left side of the press. As your case rotates clockwise, after the powder is dropped, your case is directly in the front of the press and the bullet is seated directly in front of the person operating the press. Is is VERY EASY to look directly into the case to see the powder charge. Even though I use a “Powder Check” die. I look directly into each case as I am loading. I have never had a squib load OR a double charge. This is not to say that it can’t happen. It can. I just haven’t experienced one.

Loading cases and bullets with the left hand is very natural to me. Others may really dislike this feature and prefer the right/left/right/left/right operation of Dillon. Please note that a case feeder eliminates this operation and both Dillon and LNL only load bullets on the left side of the press. Dillon at the back of the press and LNL at the front of the press.

Dillon Customer service is legendary. You can buy a used Dillon press that is a total wreak and they will rebuild or send you a new one for about $40-$50 bucks. Any parts you break will be replaced free of charge. Hornady service, in my experience, is equal. When I needed some replacement springs that broke do to age, Hornady replaced them free of charge. They will also rebuild your press if it needs it. I think most other manufacturers are matching Dillon’s service. Dillon raised the bar pretty high for customer service and other companies see how devoted customers are to the BLUE presses. I do feel that is one of the primary reasons Dillon’s prices are HIGH. But of course, I have no way of knowing that.

You can load anything on both the Dillon and LNL from .25 ACP to 500 N.E. Realistically, I would say that people with progressive loaders mostly load pistol ammo 99% of the time. After using the LNL, I feel confident that my Grandkids will be using when I'm gone.

In summary, the Hornady LNL has all the features of the Dillon 650 but, is much cheaper. However, the Dillon automatic case feeder is about $50 cheaper than the Hornady. Changing calipers on the LNL is faster and cheaper. The powder measure on the LNL is VASTLY SUPERIOR TO THE DILLON, at least in my opinion. I bought the LNL and am very satisfied. A shooting buddy of mine is a long time, dedicated Dillon user. He has three! After giving me a ration of "stuff" about my choice, he came over and used my LNL and sheepishly said, "That's a very nice setup!!" Good Luck on your search. You really can't go wrong with Blue or Red.

This is an excellent analysis, and pretty much covered everything I was going to say. The workflow difference between the two presses is a key factor that I think is often overlooked.

I went through this process about 8 years ago when I was trying to decide on a progressive setup. I had a buddy with a 650XL, and got to use it a few times to see what I liked and didn't like about it. My budget and my location (low basement ceilings) made it pretty clear early one that I couldn't accommodate a case feeder, and honestly I've found over the years that with the volume that I load I don't really need one. As such, I went with the LNL, because the work flow is FAR better than the Dillon for manually feeding cases. I've been pretty happy with that decision.

I originally bought the LNL because I thought it would be easier and cheaper to switch between calibers. That ultimately never became a factor because I exclusively use the progressive for 9mm and do everything else on a Lee Classic Cast Single-Stage, or a Lee Classic Turret (I did set up the single-stage to accept the Hornady LNL quick-change bushings, though, which are awesome). With what primers and powder have cost in recent years, I'm only loading an average of about 500-1000 rounds per month, which at most is 2.5 hrs at the bench with the LNL (I can typically run about 400 rounds an hour, including the time to fill primer tubes). A case feeder might cut that down to an hour and a half on a big month...I've got the time, and haven't missed the extra noise, cost, and complexity.

A few observations about my experience with the LNL:

1. Visibility into the cases is excellent, and I like that you can easily inspect the charge before seating a bullet. When I opted for the LNL over the Dillon, I used some of the savings to buy a roller handle and light kit from inline fabrication, and both have been excellent upgrades. The light in particular really helps with visibility and quality control.

2. The priming system is simpler than the Dillon, but it's not perfect. Even a tiny bit of junk in the track and it won't align properly. Compressed air is your friend.

3. It is smoother than the Dillon as mentioned, but it will still spill some powder as it cycles, especially in a short case like 9mm (I like HS6 which fills it pretty full). You can mitigate this somewhat by driving the detents on the bottom of the shell plate in just a hair with a punch. It takes some trial and error, because you need them to still engage for proper indexing, but if you find the sweet spot it can really smooth out the press. Wiping a tiny bit of case lube on every 5th case or so, even when using carbide dies, will help smooth things out, too, by reducing friction and binding in the dies.

4. The Hornady powder-through case mouth expander sucks. It's hard to adjust and sticks, making press operation harsh and jerky. I use the Hornady powder drop, but removed the expander and do that at the next station with a Lee die. I also crimp with a Lee FCD in the 5th station.

5. Keeping the shell plate bolt tight is imperative. If it gets loose it will cause all sorts of problems, and it really likes to back out on its own when the press is operating. I put a wavy washer on it, and also check it with a wrench every time I fill the primer tube.

6. Probably my biggest frustration is that occasionally a case will not seat properly in the shell plate and topple over as it's going into the re-sizing/decapping die, bending the decapping pin. This may be because I'm still using my original retaining spring that probably has about 40k rounds on it, but it is definitely the source of 90% of the profanity directed at the press. It's probably time to change that spring, even though it's not "broken". I've never had the problem mentioned in the quoted post of crushing one with the shellplate, but I always install the shellplate first, then install the spring.

7. This is probably more of an issue with my setup, but the drop tube for old primers can get really jammed up and pushed out of the press if there's a blockage.

8. The decapping pin, at least in Lee dies, is a balancing act. If you set it up too low it'll bottom out against the inside of the case and limit your press travel, which can mess with OAL, crimp, and all sorts of other stuff. If it's set up too short it may not completely punch out a primer, especially in crimped cases, which then extends down into the primer drop hole in the head of the ram and jams everything up when you try to index.

Most of these issues, as with anything mechanical, are related to proper configuration, adjustment, and maintenance. The press itself is a well-designed and robust piece of equipment. In 8 years and about 40k rounds I've never broken it and have yet to call Hornady support. I've made quite a few calls or orders to Lee for replacement parts during that time. I'm glad I made the choice I did, and if I could go back and do it all over again, I wouldn't change a thing.

So coming full circle to the original question in the OP:

If your goal is to load thousands of rounds a month and want maximum output through automation, and money is no object, I'd give the Dillon Offerings (XL750 or 1050/1100) a hard look. They're great presses. If you are just wanting to streamline production a bit for a reasonable price and don't plan on adding a case feeder, the LNL is a better choice, IMO.

One thing I would NOT recommend is a manually-indexed progressive like the Dillon 450/550. It's not that they are poorly-made pieces of equipment, but the workflow on a manually indexed press lends itself to mistakes, which lead to squibs or double-charges. Yes, this can also happen with auto-indexer, but it's a lot less likely because when something fails it typically locks up the press and forces you to examine/correct everything before you proceed. A manual indexer only takes you forgetting to turn the wheel one time. There are things you can do to help protect against this, and of course you SHOULD always be paying attention, but over thousands and thousands of rounds the odds are high that eventually you'll screw up. I've seen it happen several times (usually to guys who argue that it would NEVER happen to them!), and appreciate the extra layer of built-in prevention that an auto-indexing press provides. I've personally made some mistakes that were caught and corrected in time because of the auto-indexing nature of my LNL. The price is also pretty much identical between the LNL and the 550, so IMO there's no compelling reason to choose a 550.

 

[bgcatty]

Sure, the Dillon may have a few issues and like everything else in reloading you have to pay attention to what you are doing, maintain your equipment as in clean it, and concentrate when operating the press. Like anything mechanical like a progressive press, proper maintenance and "tuning" is the norm. I reload about 15 calibers on my Dillon 550 and can speak from years and years of experience. My !

 

[Leo]

A helpful tip. When using other brands of dies with a Dillon 550 die head, I like to use Dillon locking nuts. They are thinner and easier to get adjusted and tightened properly. The Dies are pretty close together with the 550. You might as well order the Dillon die wrench at the same time, it all works together well.

 

[sapper83]

I have a Lee single stage press. Like it well enough. Only my second year reloading. Was thinking about going to a progressive press? Thoughts? Recommendations? I would t want to have to buy all new dies!

I was given a hornady single stage and a lee turret press 3 die setup. Works just fine making 200ish rounds an hour on a good day. What are you reloading? If you want consistant rifle rounds stay with the single stage. Bulk handgun ammo-progressive all day and dillion is master of that craft.

If what you have works why change it? Curious

 

[VERT]

For high output an auto indexing press is the way to go. I loaded thousands of rounds on a square deal before switching to a 550. The square deal was a little faster for 9mm once it was running but the 550 is more robust and makes .45 auto easier.

The beauty of the manual indexing press is the versatility. I can use it like a traditional turret press to load precision rifle. In fact I purchased a second used 550 and stripped it down into what is sold as the 550BL (basic loader). I purchased one of the very last 450 shell plates with the number 1,2,3,5 shell holders. I can never change the shell holder and load .223, .308, 9mm, .40, .38 spl and .45 auto. I use this press to size .223 brass, decap, load .308 with weighed charges and seat the occasional high primer. This sits next to my primary 550 where I load .223, 9mm and .45 auto. If I had a single press I could really do anything I want with a 550.

Knock on wood I have never had a squib or double charge. (I am knocking hard and repeatedly because I have jinxed myself.) In fact if anything gets out of sequence the manual press is easier to resolve the issue, just pull the pins. It is more difficult to simply pull the handle again then one might think. You will feel the already sized brass in stage 1, depending on case volume the powder rolls out and not seating a bullet in stage 3 is pretty obvious. Plus the click of the finished cartridge dropping into the bin isn’t there. The only squibs and double charges I have personally experienced (and there have been several) were friends who load on 650s or with ammobots.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I say if you have Lee equipment get Dillon. Then sell me your Lee for cheap on the classified. I have 3 Lee progressive presses that I got for almost nothing and they all work great for me. Was just wondering what is the big hurry with reloading? You can pump them out real fast with a Dillon but can you watch your quality. I say to each his own. I like to make sure of what I am doing.

A 550 is manual index. I run my rifle rounds through one at a time, inspecting each step. Pistol rounds get cranked out and I can pull one from any stage I choose for inspection.

 

[billybob44]

I say if you have Lee equipment get Dillon. Then sell me your Lee for cheap on the classified. I have 3 Lee progressive presses that I got for almost nothing and they all work great for me. Was just wondering what is the big hurry with reloading? You can pump them out real fast with a Dillon but can you watch your quality. I say to each his own. I like to make sure of what I am doing.

Good for you...
" I like to make sure of what I am doing."
^^^
And THAT'S Exactly what you get with Dillon!
I have had a Dillon RL550 for over 40 years + still going STRONG.
Dillon tools are mostly MACHINED parts, set screws, and EXACT fitting parts==Lee not so much.

If a person likes to screw with bead chains-plastic -and loose fitting parts than Lee is for you...Bill.