Peeling quarter round

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  • hoosierdoc

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    Question for the DIYers or pros.

    We had stained wood cabinets that were stripped and then repainted. Getting a fair amount of chipping, mainly on the quarter round.

    I suspect it's from vacuum/mops mainly.

    How can I end up with black quarter-round that is chip resistant? I plan to redo them myself.
     

    dieselrealtor

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    NOT an expert, but if it is a relatively small amount I would scrap it & buy new. Going to be hard to get paint to stick over the top of paint that is already prone to chipping. May be able to get some of the synthetic quarter round & use paint designed for plastic.
     

    Ingomike

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    Use quality lead based paint, it will hold up forever. Oops, that isn’t legal anymore because apparently humans cannot help themselves from chewing woodwork. LOL.


    Purple not working on this…
     

    hoosierdoc

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    NOT an expert, but if it is a relatively small amount I would scrap it & buy new. Going to be hard to get paint to stick over the top of paint that is already prone to chipping. May be able to get some of the synthetic quarter round & use paint designed for plastic.
    Just found this. May be perfect :cheers:

     

    patience0830

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    Not far from the tree
    Question for the DIYers or pros.

    We had stained wood cabinets that were stripped and then repainted. Getting a fair amount of chipping, mainly on the quarter round.

    I suspect it's from vacuum/mops mainly.

    How can I end up with black quarter-round that is chip resistant? I plan to redo them myself.
    Rhino lining
     

    MRockwell

    Just Me
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    I am assuming this is in a kitchen?

    I would not recommend MDF in an environment like a kitchen or laundry room, unless all sides were sealed completely(even the cut side). Moisture will swell MDF over time. I had a piece of scrap 3/4" pulled off a job that I let sit outside, and it swelled to about 4"(yes that is an extreme case, but it is an example of what moisture can do to MDF).

    If it were a kitchen I was building, I would use a maple "quarter round" and shoot it with a lacquer that is made for the location, such as M.L.Campbell Krystal. Lacquer can be tinted to whatever color and sheen you want. Maple is durable, and will hold up to some abuse.

    I've never used the Royal Mouldings composite you linked, so I can't give any insight on that. It seems like it would be more DIY-friendly than what I would do. Mainly because you wouldn't have to get a pro to shoot the lacquer.
     
    Last edited:

    Lpherr

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    Just found this. May be perfect :cheers:

    I was going to suggest PVC. It's durable, it doesn't warp, rot, or absorb moisture.
    I would recommend a topcoat. Fusion works great, and comes in an array of flavors. Also, give it a scuff before coating; it breaks the surface for a better bond.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Just found this. May be perfect :cheers:

    If you have any spots with outside corners the PVC breaks pretty easily if snagged on that miter joint.

    If you just want to repaint, scuff it up and use some primer, then repaint, then adding some clear on that would help give it some added protection. Just pick whatever sheen you want, flat, satin etc.
     

    Lpherr

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    If you have any spots with outside corners the PVC breaks pretty easily if snagged on that miter joint.

    If you just want to repaint, scuff it up and use some primer, then repaint, then adding some clear on that would help give it some added protection. Just pick whatever sheen you want, flat, satin etc.
    Maybe your experience has been different, but I've never had PVC break. I've even intentionally tried to break a piece off (1/4" thick) for a clamping spacer, and it wouldn't snap. I had to cut it. PVC is very pliable, and bends, but I doubt it would ever break, just by snagging an edge. JMO and experience.
    I do work with PVC quite a bit, but I use sheets.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Maybe your experience has been different, but I've never had PVC break. I've even intentionally tried to break a piece off (1/4" thick) for a clamping spacer, and it wouldn't snap. I had to cut it. PVC is very pliable, and bends, but I doubt it would ever break, just by snagging an edge. JMO and experience.
    I do work with PVC quite a bit, but I use sheets.
    The mitered corners definitely can break if snagged, and it dents pretty easily. I've replaced quite a few pieces usually around islands or peninsula toe kick. I've also replaced a few warped pieces that were above a stove, but it was kind of an unusual use.

    If I was using it I would make sure to glue the miters and make sure the fit is good.

    I'm not saying it's bad stuff, I actually like the stuff. Just giving a heads up.
     
    Last edited:

    Lpherr

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    The mitered corners definitely can break if snagged. I've replaced quite a few pieces usually around islands or peninsula toe kick. I've also replaced a few warped pieces that were above a stove, but it was kind of an unusual use.

    If I was using it I would make sure to glue the miters and make sure the fit is good.

    I'm not saying it's bad stuff, I actually like the stuff. Just giving a heads up.
    It's actually recommended to glue any joints. Epoxy works well, or they have a dedicated adhesive.
    Over a stove? That would definitely warp; PVC is shaped by heating it. Don't burn it, the fumes are toxic.

    Perhaps the ready made trim is a different density/composition than the sheets. If I need trim, I mill it from the sheets.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    It's actually recommended to glue any joints. Epoxy works well, or they have a dedicated adhesive.
    Over a stove? That would definitely warp; PVC is shaped by heating it. Don't burn it, the fumes are toxic.

    Perhaps the ready made trim is a different density/composition than the sheets. If I need trim, I mill it from the sheets.
    Yeah I know. A lot of DIY is installed wrong and not clean miters.
    The above the stove was they were trying to use it as an under cabinet trim and of course it didn't work out. I've replaced a lot of heat related damage on the southside of houses.

    Like i said I like the stuff if it's used properly. I've also replaced fiberglass doors on south and west walls from warping. Wouldn't use those like that either.
     

    Lpherr

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    I just read the link for HD. The white is primed, and the rest are paper wrapped, and are not for exterior use. I know this is for a kitchen, but if it can't withstand exterior use, how long do you suppose it will last in a kitchen environment? The paper will eventually release, and look like poo.
    I personally wouldn't use any of them.
    I would get raw PVC pieces, and paint the desired color. I've painted tons of the sheet material, and it's difficult to sand it off, so it should be fine being used as trim. I have many signs around, that have been in the outdoor elements for some years, and they all look as good as new.
    Maybe they don't manufacture trim in raw, like the sheets? In that case, I would do as I always have, and machine it from the sheets.
     
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