Paint my AR

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  • ibwaltb

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    27   0   0
    Jan 23, 2018
    298
    43
    Fishers
    I've painted three of my AR's to this point myself. None had camo patterns.
    Just some un-wanted advice before you get started, which you probably already know from your original posting....
    1) Cleanliness of parts is critical. Take your time and make sure there's no contaminants on your parts (no grease, oil, ...)
    2) as said previously, try out your patterns multiple times on scrap wood
    3) Get your paint fixturing worked out before you start your process, not during. Like anything 3D, you'll need to shoot the paint at all angles to ensure complete coverage, especially in small recesses.
    4) Expect to take a monetary loss on your rifle after you paint it. But you're not doing it to make money, you're doing it because you want to add that personal touch. Get comfortable with that fact before you start to apply paint.
    5) As already stated, you can undo what you paint, it just takes a lot of time.
     

    gregkl

    Outlier
    Site Supporter
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    33   0   0
    Apr 8, 2012
    11,913
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    Bloomington
    I've painted three of my AR's to this point myself. None had camo patterns.
    Just some un-wanted advice before you get started, which you probably already know from your original posting....
    1) Cleanliness of parts is critical. Take your time and make sure there's no contaminants on your parts (no grease, oil, ...)
    2) as said previously, try out your patterns multiple times on scrap wood
    3) Get your paint fixturing worked out before you start your process, not during. Like anything 3D, you'll need to shoot the paint at all angles to ensure complete coverage, especially in small recesses.
    4) Expect to take a monetary loss on your rifle after you paint it. But you're not doing it to make money, you're doing it because you want to add that personal touch. Get comfortable with that fact before you start to apply paint.
    5) As already stated, you can undo what you paint, it just takes a lot of time.

    Good points Walt! Definitely not unwanted!

    No camo patterns, eh? Do you have any pictures you would post?

    I think I'm going to hang my parts for good access while painting
     

    maxwelhse

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 21, 2018
    5,415
    149
    Michiana
    Good points Walt! Definitely not unwanted!

    No camo patterns, eh? Do you have any pictures you would post?

    I think I'm going to hang my parts for good access while painting

    I'm moving away from hanging stuff to paint it, or at least not hang it the obvious way that I'd been doing it.

    What I find happens when I hang things is that I almost always end up hanging them in the long axis by a single point, so I have a stick hanging from something, which sharply increases the amount of runs I get and actually makes it harder to paint it evenly. What I've taken a liking to lately is still hanging, but I try to get my stuff resting horizontal in its longest axis and then support it from 2 ends adjacent to that axis, literally like a hog on a spit. I do this up high enough so I can get around all sides of it with decent light and access. A couple of 55 gallon drums are perfect for most things in terms of height and ease of use.

    There are still plenty of times where a bungee cord and a tree are plenty to get it done quick, but I really like having the broad side of the canvas being presented to me a lot better. If you're doing a lot of 1 specific thing (like ARs), it wouldn't that tough to make a fixture with some dowel rods and 2x4s to hold it just the way you'd like it. That's how I read #3 above too.
     

    Tyler-The-Piker

    Boondock Saint
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    101   0   0
    Jun 24, 2013
    4,756
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    ><(((((*>
    Agree, I paint before assembly, and generally paint the barrel too. Everything separately. Buttons and switches in contrasting color can look nice.
    Next up for me is stenciling on some mags to get the hang of that.

    edit: wait, that’s not what you said?

    Yes, but you said it better than I did :cool:
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    I'm moving away from hanging stuff to paint it, or at least not hang it the obvious way that I'd been doing it.

    What I find happens when I hang things is that I almost always end up hanging them in the long axis by a single point, so I have a stick hanging from something, which sharply increases the amount of runs I get and actually makes it harder to paint it evenly. What I've taken a liking to lately is still hanging, but I try to get my stuff resting horizontal in its longest axis and then support it from 2 ends adjacent to that axis, literally like a hog on a spit. I do this up high enough so I can get around all sides of it with decent light and access. A couple of 55 gallon drums are perfect for most things in terms of height and ease of use.

    There are still plenty of times where a bungee cord and a tree are plenty to get it done quick, but I really like having the broad side of the canvas being presented to me a lot better. If you're doing a lot of 1 specific thing (like ARs), it wouldn't that tough to make a fixture with some dowel rods and 2x4s to hold it just the way you'd like it. That's how I read #3 above too.

    Start with "Good" quality paint. I tend to use Rustoleum because it covers and has longevity. I do not paint my rifles. I paint car/bike/engine/brackets etc. Rustoleum holds up if applied properly. On a clean and well prepped surface. People moan about dry time. Do the work in the proper environment as to temp/humidity etc. Yeah the big R takes a bit longer to dry. But it is hands down the best paint in a can I have found.

    Standing/stacking/hanging it is pretty much the same. The issue is getting the color into all the nooks/crannies etc. Many folks lay it on to heavy on the 1st pass trying to cover everything. Take your time. Mist on the 1st 2 or 3 coats and start with those hard to get into places but stay off the pieces and don't load up the color. Give each pass some time to get ahold to the piece.
     

    gregkl

    Outlier
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    33   0   0
    Apr 8, 2012
    11,913
    77
    Bloomington
    I'm moving away from hanging stuff to paint it, or at least not hang it the obvious way that I'd been doing it.

    What I find happens when I hang things is that I almost always end up hanging them in the long axis by a single point, so I have a stick hanging from something, which sharply increases the amount of runs I get and actually makes it harder to paint it evenly. What I've taken a liking to lately is still hanging, but I try to get my stuff resting horizontal in its longest axis and then support it from 2 ends adjacent to that axis, literally like a hog on a spit. I do this up high enough so I can get around all sides of it with decent light and access. A couple of 55 gallon drums are perfect for most things in terms of height and ease of use.

    There are still plenty of times where a bungee cord and a tree are plenty to get it done quick, but I really like having the broad side of the canvas being presented to me a lot better. If you're doing a lot of 1 specific thing (like ARs), it wouldn't that tough to make a fixture with some dowel rods and 2x4s to hold it just the way you'd like it. That's how I read #3 above too.

    Good idea. Since my rifle will be partially assembled when I paint, I'll rig it so it sits horizontal.
     

    maxwelhse

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 21, 2018
    5,415
    149
    Michiana
    Start with "Good" quality paint. I tend to use Rustoleum because it covers and has longevity. I do not paint my rifles. I paint car/bike/engine/brackets etc. Rustoleum holds up if applied properly. On a clean and well prepped surface. People moan about dry time. Do the work in the proper environment as to temp/humidity etc. Yeah the big R takes a bit longer to dry. But it is hands down the best paint in a can I have found.

    Standing/stacking/hanging it is pretty much the same. The issue is getting the color into all the nooks/crannies etc. Many folks lay it on to heavy on the 1st pass trying to cover everything. Take your time. Mist on the 1st 2 or 3 coats and start with those hard to get into places but stay off the pieces and don't load up the color. Give each pass some time to get ahold to the piece.

    I have been scorned so many times by rattle cans that I'm about to completely transition to paint guns and commercial materials the next time I have a job bigger than a dipstick handle. The last remaining contender in my rattle can fleet is, indeed, Rustoleum engine enamel. Pretty much everything else I've used is hot garbage, including a few other Rustoleum offerings. For years I had various go-tos and then they changed their formulation or I couldn't buy them anymore.

    If I were to paint a gun, I would go into it with the thought that half of the idea is for it to gain accelerated character. So, dings, chips, bright edges etc would all be part of the appeal. Just about anything at Walmart already does that. ;)
     

    random44

    Plinker
    Site Supporter
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    3   0   0
    Dec 27, 2020
    45
    18
    North Central
    I've painted two using Rustoleum camo colors. I laid them out on cardboard, painted one side, let it dry thoroughly, and then did the other side. The only advice I can offer is if you are going to do stripes, start spraying above or below the rifle, pass over it, and continue spraying past it. If that makes sense. It prevents build up/pooling. Good luck.
     

    gregkl

    Outlier
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    33   0   0
    Apr 8, 2012
    11,913
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    Bloomington
    For me, I have decided not to paint mine. I'm going to watch my money more closely this year and not spend it on anything that is not needed to pursue my interests. To get the paint job I wanted, I was looking at $100 or more to achieve my end result.

    That's $100 that can go towards a training class. Or ammo. Or reloading components. Or entering a match.

    So black it will stay.
     

    Small's

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    Dec 16, 2012
    607
    28
    south of Indy
    I done one of my ar's with krylon and rust-oleum. Basically I painted the whole gun khaki then did od green stripes at an angle every 3-4". Kinda like a tiger stripe. Then I took some martha stewart sea sponges from the craft section at walmart and sprayed a little khaki on a piece of cardboard or paper plate then dab the sponge in it and randomly go over the green with the khaki and then did the khaki with the green. Later I added some random browns or mixed a few colors together on a paper plate and hit it randomly. Since there is no pattern if you ever want to touch it up you have no worries just grab a little section of sponge and dab it in a random color and hit it or let the black be part of the camo.
    c4cfb6f7d33c0b39cd79db1181c83722.jpg


    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
     

    Small's

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    Dec 16, 2012
    607
    28
    south of Indy
    I practiced on a old single shot that was missing to forearm grip. The black gun is the one in the first pic
    ef41dfc17d38f77d91c7cf1c02fc41bc.jpg


    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
     
    Rating - 100%
    28   0   0
    Oct 3, 2008
    4,193
    149
    On a hill in Perry C
    I done one of my ar's with krylon and rust-oleum. Basically I painted the whole gun khaki then did od green stripes at an angle every 3-4". Kinda like a tiger stripe. Then I took some martha stewart sea sponges from the craft section at walmart and sprayed a little khaki on a piece of cardboard or paper plate then dab the sponge in it and randomly go over the green with the khaki and then did the khaki with the green. Later I added some random browns or mixed a few colors together on a paper plate and hit it randomly. Since there is no pattern if you ever want to touch it up you have no worries just grab a little section of sponge and dab it in a random color and hit it or let the black be part of the camo.
    c4cfb6f7d33c0b39cd79db1181c83722.jpg


    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
    Very similar to how I did mine. Might even have got the idea from you! I used different colors and pattern for more of a general purpose camo.
     

    TheWingMaster

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 12, 2021
    60
    8
    Fort Wayne
    Title. I want to paint my AR but am on the fence, mostly because if I do it I can’t go back. I want my rifle to be more than just your typical “black scary gun” and make it unique, make it my own. If I paint it and then later on down the road I want to sell my rifle then that could be a problem. Not that I want to sell it. I’ve got some BB guns that I painted to try out the color and to see if they I liked them, and I am happy with now they look. So, penny for your thoughts?




    View attachment 94782
    Looks good man. I’d say think on it for a while before you do anything drastic though.
     
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