Opinions please... What would be a good long range rifle for targets shooting.

[NyleRN]

If it hasn't been said yet, don't buy/use a ledsled. Buy a good front bag and a rear squeeze bag
ETA: And depending on how far out you want to shoot, certain things become much more critical the further out you go. Such as your optic being perfectly level with your bore, keeping the rifle itself as level as possible when the shot breaks, load consistency, breathing and holds/wind calls

 

[sloughfoot]

Look up NRA high-power. Look up CMP high-power.

Shoot iron sights out to 1,000 yards.

 

[55fairlane]

Such as your optic being perfectly level with your bore

This is a semi incorrect statement, there are times your optic runs out of elevation, therefore you use a mount with 10, 20 or 30 MOA built in. While yes having your optic true & square to the bore, having the sight bases perfectly in line with each other, as so you do not put the optic in a bind is important

 

[NyleRN]

This is a semi incorrect statement, there are times your optic runs out of elevation, therefore you use a mount with 10, 20 or 30 MOA built in. While yes having your optic true & square to the bore, having the sight bases perfectly in line with each other, as so you do not put the optic in a bind is important

I'm not following. How does elevation have anything to do with a horizontal axis? You can be level at 0 moa and level at 40 moa. Just because you put a 40 moa rail on doesn't change your horizontal axis being perpendicular to the bore.

 

[55fairlane]

I'm not following. How does elevation have anything to do with a horizontal axis? You can be level at 0 moa and level at 40 moa. Just because you put a 40 moa rail on doesn't change your horizontal axis being perpendicular to the bore.

That is different then what you described, yes I agree with your statement

 

[Hawkeye7br]

I would like to learn how to shoot rifles at targets ... taking it one level to longer as I go. What I have is a ar15.... 22-250... 30-06. From what I understand this will take me further in distance as I learn. But for my longest shooting rifle I have been told I need a bolt action 6.5 Creedmore or 308. I know I will also need to fous on scopes. But can you please guide me as what ones to start with and then next distance. Also would you suggest about the longest one I will need to start saving back for to purchase, I plan to use a leadsled. Any help to guide me on my path going on in the future.

You haven't shared your budget. Buying a rifle, scope, front rest, and rear sandbag all costs money, but they retain value even with some depreciation. On the other hand, bullets go in the dirt, factory centerfire ammo is about 10 times the cost of mid-budget rimfire. A thousand rounds of factory 22-250 will cost $1200-$1500, a thousand rounds of RWS Target will run about $160. The money you save with 22 ammo will buy a quality CZ 457, quality scope, front rest and rear sandbag, all of which retain value. A 22 will drop about 3 feet from 50 to 200 yards and suffer wind drift, you will learn from both while using affordable ammo.

 

[cute_rascal]

For the long haul saving up for a high-quality scope will pay off in spades because a top-notch scope will keep you happy for years to come

 

[SmileDocHill]

Optics are kinda like rifles, first or second focal plain? What reticle? Target dot? Duplex? German number 4? Drop compensation? This list is endless. Side focus? Exposed target turrets?

I've been at this (general rifle stuff, not serious long range competition) for years. I came to ingo MANY years as a way to immerse myself in gun conversations and narrow down all the "I don't know what I don't know" areas. I still enjoy a post like this one that brings back that good feeling of "oooh, what's that?" There are at least 3 items there that I'm tagging to look into later.

 

[BugI02]

Nothing wrong with old school target guns. A good Sharps can really reach out there, along with a Winchester 1885. Billy Dixon made good use of a long range gun at Adobe Walls in 1874.

View attachment 333202 View attachment 333203

You were born a hundred years too late, Leadeye

 

[Hookeye]

Increased volume of shooting, so .22lr or .223.

12x w good turrets also a starter. Am anti chinesium which limits options.

 

[Hookeye]

You can get started with anything.

As you progress youll want to change things.

Even on my .22lr cheapy Savage, the SWFA 12x went bye bye due to glass quality. The Leupold Freedom 6-18x is better, but the turrets suck.

So now im looking at a Nightforce. Its silly, as I dont compete.
But Im old n grumpy and hate stuff that just aint right.

 

[K9Luvn]

You haven't shared your budget. Buying a rifle, scope, front rest, and rear sandbag all costs money, but they retain value even with some depreciation. On the other hand, bullets go in the dirt, factory centerfire ammo is about 10 times the cost of mid-budget rimfire. A thousand rounds of factory 22-250 will cost $1200-$1500, a thousand rounds of RWS Target will run about $160. The money you save with 22 ammo will buy a quality CZ 457, quality scope, front rest and rear sandbag, all of which retain value. A 22 will drop about 3 feet from 50 to 200 yards and suffer wind drift, you will learn from both while using affordable ammo.

I did buy a Savage 110 Bolt action 6.5 Creedmore at the pawnshop. But I know I am not ready for it. I think I will take the advice of going with a 22LR starting out to save money as I practice. I honestly need to know much more. Thank you for your advice! It is much appriciated.

 

[K9Luvn]

You can get started with anything.

As you progress youll want to change things.

Even on my .22lr cheapy Savage, the SWFA 12x went bye bye due to glass quality. The Leupold Freedom 6-18x is better, but the turrets suck.

So now im looking at a Nightforce. Its silly, as I dont compete.
But Im old n grumpy and hate stuff that just aint right.

Yes I do have some scopes... but I can see where I need to really save back for what I'm really going to want in the long run.

 

[Hawkeye7br]

Yes I do have some scopes... but I can see where I need to really save back for what I'm really going to want in the long run.

I'll stand by my earlier post....a CZ 457 with heavy barrel, quality scope with repeatable tracking, and decent ammo if you can find it. And by all means, before you buy, attend a few events and talk to competitors. There are events where people will loan their rifle if you pay for the ammo.

 

[K9Luvn]

If it hasn't been said yet, don't buy/use a ledsled. Buy a good front bag and a rear squeeze bag
ETA: And depending on how far out you want to shoot, certain things become much more critical the further out you go. Such as your optic being perfectly level with your bore, keeping the rifle itself as level as possible when the shot breaks, load consistency, breathing and holds/wind calls

 

[K9Luvn]

Thank you. I have been looking at some bags. I really appriciate all the advice being given.

 

[K9Luvn]

I'll stand by my earlier post....a CZ 457 with heavy barrel, quality scope with repeatable tracking, and decent ammo if you can find it. And by all means, before you buy, attend a few events and talk to competitors. There are events where people will loan their rifle if you pay for the ammo.

Thank you. I took some time to read up on them. Yes what ammo cost today... it should be expected to pay for the ammo if someone is kind enough to let you try their firearm out.

 

[Bassat]

I have only a bit of experience with long distance shooting. Most of it maxxed out at around 1500 yards. It is fairly easy to put rounds on target when the USArmy is paying for all the .50 BMG linked tracer ammo I can shoot. Thank you, President Reagan.

Serious long distance shooters: https://coffeeordie.com/longest-confirmed-sniper-kills