My AR SBR Build-in-Progress

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  • jsx1043

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    I'll be keeping an eye too. I'm running my "beater rifle" as I like to call it - Stag lower and parts kit, MOE stock, FN 1:9 11.5" bbl with 5' welded/pinned FH, MOE handguard with TangoDown VFG, Surefire 6P in a zip-tie side mount :D, Eotech, UERG 1/2 point sling. I'm thinking I'll have it easy to SBR it since all I have to do "remove" the flash hider and put a new one on after I get my stamp (which is still a work in progress...will be keeping an eye on THAT process too Evan.)

    My next addition is (GASP!!) a UTG 416SE extended length carbine drop-in rail. I want the length but am hindered by my older style YHM flip up front sight/railed gas block combo. I know I can go with a low pro gas block and free float...I'll get there next summer.....
     

    Tinman

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    Evan,

    Looks like Mark and Craig pretty much nailed most everything already. I will only add this, I've owned a few over the years, and currently have 2 in the safe. The latest crop of SBR uppers from reputable manufacturers I really haven't noticed any appreciable difference in reliability between 10.5, 11.5, and 12.5 barrels.

    For me, barrel length is more driven by my chosen shooting platform, and whether I want a can on it or not. Since I want a 10 inch min rail length for my chosen shooting platform, if I need clearance for a can it means a min 11.5 barrel. Having said that, my current can gun is a 12.5" DD upper with an 11" Troy rail. What can I say, I got a great deal on the complete upper :D. I wouldn't do the Troy rail by itself, just not happy with the mounting (as Mark noted), but that's what the upper had and the price was right. That gun currently sports one of AAC's new Breakout comp and flash hider combos.

    The current non-can gun you probably saw at the AR open house, It's a 10.5" LMT MRP upper. The MRP is roughly equivalent to a 10" rail, so it just has the flash hider poking out the rail.

    You know me, I run my guns allot, both are very reliable. I do not have as many rounds out of the 12.5 yet, but the 10.5 has run several thousand rounds between cleanings with just a liberal application of oil.

    As far as twist rate, the 1:9 is said to be ideal for 55grn and lighter bullets, the 1:7 is supposed to be best for 62grn and heavier bullets. I believe the 1:8 was spec'ed for folks who mostly train with 55grn fmj, but may run 62grn on occasion but don't really need heavier or lighter capabilities.
    Others much more learned than me say you can't get acceptable accuracy using the heavier bullets in a 1:9 and that you will spin apart the lighter bullets in a 1:7. I run mostly 55 and 62 grn depending on what I can get, so lighter and heavier is really only academic to me. All of my current guns are 1:7 chrome lined and I've never had any issues with accuracy regardless of what ammo I used (except when the barrels had exceeded service life). I'm testing some new 75grn TAP FPD in the shorties, I'll let you know how that goes.

    Tinman....
     

    esrice

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    Any pics of the DD? I've seen the 10.5.

    the 10.5 has run several thousand rounds between cleanings with just a liberal application of oil.

    What buffer do you run? Did you have to tweak anything to get it running reliability?

    (except when the barrels had exceeded service life).

    You're one of the few guys that I know that regularly gets to that point. ;)

    Thanks for the post Tinman. :yesway:
     

    Don

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    Odd my 1/9 10.5" shoots 55 and 62gr the same. Hell my 20" 1/7 twist ar shoots 55gr bullets VERY accurately and I have yet to have one not make it to the target. a 1/9 twist rifle should be good to about 68/9 grain bullets. ;)
     

    gunwh

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    Do you want to start the build on one of our SBR lowers? let me know here is our demo if you want to check it out at INDy on come to the shop and give it a whirl.

    c3ar.bmp
     

    gunwh

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    If your in the market for an SBR PM me. We have 3 stipped lowers left and ready for your build or one for you. Our SBR base price is $950 (does not include $200 tax to BATF)or stripped SBR lowers are $250 (does not include $200 tax to BATF)
     

    Tinman

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    I'll grab a couple pics for you tonight when I get back home.

    I run the H buffer with an "extra power" spring from Tactical springs LLC. I really haven't had to tweak anything on that gun. Have had a few in the past that I did, but as I said, the new crop from reputable guys seems to be solid stuff.

    I have managed to burn out a few, some went earlier than they should, others I'm still trying to figure out what I did different to get that kind of life. Last one ate somewhere in the neighborhood of 30K before the keyhole was so bad it had to get repaired. I did have to switch to 62grn exclusively for the last 5K or so just to get any kind of accuracy out of it.

    Tinman....
     

    gunwh

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    What is money when it comes to great pleasure? :dunno:
    I know guys that have spent more on standard AR-15 then what we sell the SBR's for!
     

    Tinman

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    Here's a couple crappy cell pics of the 12.5:

    Picture003.jpg


    Picture005.jpg


    And not really SBR related, but here's AAC's new fast attach muzzle device called the breakout.

    Picture004.jpg


    One note, the 12.5 does seem to have a noticeably lighter recoil impulse, even before the new break it was good, now it's just plain crazy. Haven't run enough yet to quantify why, but I'm not the only one to notice the phenomenon

    Tinman....
     

    theweakerbrother

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    BOOOOO!!!! 10.5" FTW!!!!! :rockwoot:

    IMG_1258.jpg


    IMG_1263.jpg



    All it took to get mine running like a top was 5 seconds with a drill. My thinking is you can always put an adjustable gas tube or gas block on the thing if you open it up too large...:dunno:
    Or you can do it like I did and nail it on the first attempt:cool:

    10.5" feel small in my hands. I can't imagine what a giant like you must perceive it as. Is that your pocket pistol/BUG? :D
     

    esrice

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    Over reach with your support thumb via the Magpul grip :D

    I've seen this setup before, and this was the first chance I got to ask someone who runs it.

    So you're activating it with the support thumb? I get the "Magpul grip", but it doesn't seem (as I sit here behind a desk and not a gun) that your thumb would be in a position to get good contact with it, especially while firing.

    Not that I'm questioning the technique, I'm just trying to understand it more. I wouldn't question Tinman. ;) :laugh:
     

    esrice

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    Ok, I think I found a picture that sums up the technique (even if he isn't running a light on that particular gun). Pay no attention to the funny caption. :D

    url


    I guess its just me and my baby girl hands. :dunno:
     

    jsx1043

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    You do have particularly miniscule, feminine hands...

    I did have my light mounted like that on my last rifle. I broomstick gripped the VFG and used my thumb to activate it. I've taken lately to a modified Magpul grip, with the support arm not extended all the way. (Old habits die hard, I guess...)
     
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