Moving a previously zero'd scope

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  • yeti rider

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 95%
    19   1   0
    Dec 17, 2011
    560
    28
    Lafayette
    I have a scope on my ar15 that has been sighted in. Am i able to move it forward or backward on my rail without messing up the point of aim too bad?
     

    phylodog

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    59   0   0
    Mar 7, 2008
    18,941
    113
    Arcadia
    Never know until you try. I've never trusted "return to zero" mounts but I also acknowledge that "zero" means different things to different people.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    Never know until you try. I've never trusted "return to zero" mounts but I also acknowledge that "zero" means different things to different people.

    Yup. I have the good (?) Bobro return to zero on both of my reach out and touch AR's and the optics always need tweaked.
     

    42769vette

    Grandmaster
    Industry Partner
    Rating - 100%
    52   0   0
    Oct 6, 2008
    15,232
    113
    south of richmond in
    Yup. I have the good (?) Bobro return to zero on both of my reach out and touch AR's and the optics always need tweaked.

    Even Bobro (IMO the best) will move POI about .3-.4 MOA.

    To the OP. If you move it forward or back slots, you will lose your zero with any mount, but you will be in the wheel house.
     

    natdscott

    User Unknown
    Trainer Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 20, 2015
    2,810
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    The only rails that will return to zero exactly are BR grade like Kelbly, and that CAN include Picatinny rails, but rarely actually does. Anything less than that level of machining in the rails or rings, and CERTAINLY on an AR receiver, and you will find they don't return, and really GOOD rings and rails, when bolted down to a rough receiver, aren't any better than crap.

    AR receivers are VERY often twisted. Easy to see: put the upper in a vice and lay a bubble level or digital protractor on the rear slot, then on the front. I betcha they won't be the same.

    So the short answer is: you need to level the scope as well as possible, lap/bed it in as needed, and torque it down, in the position you want it to be. Make sure you are pushing the mount/rings fully forward in the pic slots before your torque, and when you do so, you need to use a torque wrench to allow for repeatability...or at the very least, paint-pen mark your rail and ring bolts so you can come back to the same amount.
     
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