Methodical way of choosing a powder?

[Hohn]

It seems that a lot of people end up choosing a powder based on what a friend recommends or what is posted online. If it works well enough, it becomes some kind of magic powder we end up swearing by, even if it is--in reality-- just fair to middling.

Is there a smarter way to choose a powder?

Burn rate is only one of several factors. It seems like density, form (flake, ball, etc), cleanliness, flash, etc are also relevant criteria.

For example, lots of 10mm guys will swear by 800-x for hot loads. But it is famously picky on metering, and usually a user of it is trickling or individually weighing loads, not feeding from a large measure on a higher-throughput setup. Thus, the Longshot fanboys argue that the superior metering of Longshot makes it *the* best hot 10mm powder.

Looking at the manuals, tons of options are available for 9mm. Other than the recommendation of a friend, or some online (INGO) input, how would you choose a powder?

As an utter reloading neophyte, I would guess that starting with a high density powder would be useful-- something with a low charge weight for starting and max loads relative to the other powders.

But it's just a guess. And is there a listing anywhere of whether a powder is stick, ball, flake, or pancake?

 

[kludge]

You can look at the manufacturers web sites to find out whether the powder is stick, ball, or whatever. They will also have a load manual so you get an idea of what powders work in what cartridges. They are generally listed in the load book from faster to slower. It will also indicate when max loads are compressed.

So so here are some insights from my experience of >20 years of reloading.

1) I have not ever found a flake powder that I like. (I don't load for shotgun.) Unique and Bullseye top the list for popular flake powders. To say I hate them would be a gross understatement.

2) My preferences for pistol powders are No.2, Universal, No.7, 2400. They all meter well, they all give great performance, and they give me very good consistency. 2400 doesn't require magnum primers so it is one less thing I need to stock. But if you need max performance from magnums then there is no substitute for W296/H110. Just read the warnings and follow them exactly. It's also not a powder for the beginner. I don't shoot .45 ACP, but if you do you might want something between No.2 and Universal.

2a) Universal is very very very clean. No.2 and No.7 are pretty darn clean. Bullseye and Unique are absolutely filthy. They don't call Unique "flaming dirt" for nothing. And it meters like corn flakes.

3) In rifles I find that working up loads with stick powders to be very very predictable. I would suggest a beginner start with IMR stick powders until they are competent and confident in reading pressure signs.

4) Hodgedon "extreme" rifle powders do in fact match the claim that they are less temperature sensitive - in my experience. On the other end of the spectrum, don't work up loads in cold weather with BL-C(2). They just might be dangerous. (See#5&6). Later I read that some competitors that use BL-C(2) in the 5.56 keep their ammo in coolers during matches.

5) I have found that with the few ball rifle powders that I have tried, that they get sensitive/erratic when you get into compressed loads.

6) Using a chronograph is an eye opening experience. (Ref#5). For me it is just as important a tool as a press or calipers. I was absolutely blind without it.

7) as for your other question, actually I would start with a powder that uses a higher charge weight and fills the case better. I find such loads to be more accurate. These tend to be on the slow end of the powder list for the cartridge.

 

[Fullmag]

The manufacture will list the type of powder ball, flake but never cornflake (800-x). Stick is often called extruded good stuff but crunchy in powder measures. Agree with Kludge and don't like either Unique or Bullseye but they are both incredibly popular.

Simply listening and being patient is the best way. Sometimes when somebody recommends a powder a light goes off and you just know. That what happened when I got some Power Pistol others like Tightgroup or HS-6. Have all three but just keep loading Power Pistol so I don't know what the others are like. Started using WST in 45acp and still trying to decide. So what you are loading?

 

[oldpink]

You'll generally get the best accuracy out of a powder that comes closest to completely filling your case for your desired velocity level.
That's why I do so well with IMR4831 out of my .30-06.

 

[ArmyADub]

One thing to consider, that seems under-rated IMHO, is availability.

The things you listed are undoubtedly important. However, for certain situations; such as mine, you know you're gonna re-load enough that availability is very important. Titegroup might not be the absolute best powder available for my particular needs, but the combination of price and the fact that I can get it anywhere, all the time makes it the overall correct choice for me

 

[jgressley2003]

My first preference on powder is to see how many calibers it covers. After that I prefer something not temp sensitive and clean.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

What are you trying to do? If you're not making match grade ammo and/or you're not a good enough shooter to notice 1" difference at 25y, look for something that's economical, AVAILABLE, and load away.

 

[Hohn]

What are you trying to do? If you're not making match grade ammo and/or you're not a good enough shooter to notice 1" difference at 25y, look for something that's economical, AVAILABLE, and load away.

This is pretty much where I'm at. My enthusiasm far exceeds my skill.

I can't see myself getting into loading yet, as the make/buy tradeoff in 9mm isn't amenable to reloading, even if my time was worthless, which it isn't. For now, the more economical route is stashing factory ammo.

But down the road I'd like to get more into rifle loading, and that's more justifiable economically. Especially in certain calibers.

 

[bstewrat3]

My preference is to get a powder that works as a midrange load in as many of my cartridges as possible. I am not shooting 1k competitions or trying to get under .5moa groups, so I don't care if I leave a hundred fps on the table or can only shoot 1.5moa groups. When I find that powder I buy it in a bulk container. Unfortunately I buy useful odds and ends when people post them and end up with too many choices.

 

[Fullmag]

This is pretty much where I'm at. My enthusiasm far exceeds my skill.

I can't see myself getting into loading yet, as the make/buy tradeoff in 9mm isn't amenable to reloading, even if my time was worthless, which it isn't. For now, the more economical route is stashing factory ammo.

But down the road I'd like to get more into rifle loading, and that's more justifiable economically. Especially in certain calibers.

Dude don't limit yourself. 9mm is the one that in economical terms is tough to justify but reloading to add to the shooting experience is why you want to reload not for the money or maybe some caliber that is not easily found or expensive. Reloading draws a person in and you love it or get completely out of it but worth a try all the same.

 

[RMC]

Many books like my Nosler manual will say what powder performed the best.

 

[Maximinus Thrax]

What are you trying to do? If you're not making match grade ammo and/or you're not a good enough shooter to notice 1" difference at 25y, look for something that's economical, AVAILABLE, and load away.

That's where I am with my powder choices. My wife found an 8lb jug of HS-6 while I was overseas and bought it for me even though we didn't really know anything about it. It works well in the guns I load for. I'm not worried about match performance or chasing velocities yet because I don't shoot enough to worry about it so I just load to comfortable function and go to town.

 

[Broom_jm]

I can't see myself getting into loading yet, as the make/buy tradeoff in 9mm isn't amenable to reloading, even if my time was worthless, which it isn't. For now, the more economical route is stashing factory ammo.

But down the road I'd like to get more into rifle loading, and that's more justifiable economically. Especially in certain calibers.

I have seen a lot of folks reference the value of their time, when discussing whether or not it's "worth it" to reload. If I billed an extra 8 hours, at my normal rate, I could buy enough ammo for the entire year, so that's not the way I choose to look at it.

Reloading is a hobby or a pastime...something you don't count the cost on, let alone factor in your time. Either you enjoy it, or you don't, but you don't put a dollar value on it.

In the long run, the very best any reloader can hope for is to shoot a lot more without spending a lot more. If you're going to keep a spreadsheet, with a column for the value of your time, just stick to buying factory ammo.

 

[Fullmag]

What is interesting about reloading I've found with handguns is the way the gun recoils. Seems like many of the newer powders have many different characteristics extremely clean, soft recoil and more of a push or significant snap. With rifles it was powder fouling verses accuracy and the barrel staying cooler. Have loaded 45 acp with many powders with a couple of bullets. Surprisingly they recoil extremely different. Finding out I need to keep better notes.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

I have seen a lot of folks reference the value of their time, when discussing whether or not it's "worth it" to reload. If I billed an extra 8 hours, at my normal rate, I could buy enough ammo for the entire year, so that's not the way I choose to look at it.

Reloading is a hobby or a pastime...something you don't count the cost on, let alone factor in your time. Either you enjoy it, or you don't, but you don't put a dollar value on it.

In the long run, the very best any reloader can hope for is to shoot a lot more without spending a lot more. If you're going to keep a spreadsheet, with a column for the value of your time, just stick to buying factory ammo.

Truth. If you watch TV, that's time you could reload "free".

 

[billybob44]

+1 On that Broom_jm....

I have seen a lot of folks reference the value of their time, when discussing whether or not it's "worth it" to reload. If I billed an extra 8 hours, at my normal rate, I could buy enough ammo for the entire year, so that's not the way I choose to look at it.

Reloading is a hobby or a pastime...something you don't count the cost on, let alone factor in your time. Either you enjoy it, or you don't, but you don't put a dollar value on it.

In the long run, the very best any reloader can hope for is to shoot a lot more without spending a lot more. If you're going to keep a spreadsheet, with a column for the value of your time, just stick to buying factory ammo.

^^^Agree with all...
My Wife (Of MANY Years) likes to sew--mostly as a hobby also...Yes, She can buy "Store Bought" clothes, and outfits, but She can make different things that the store just does not have...Just like us with reloading.

Yes, I can duplicate factory loads with most anything I load. Most of my loads can NOT be purchased at ANY store...Bill.

 

[jgressley2003]

That's where I am with my powder choices. My wife found an 8lb jug of HS-6 while I was overseas and bought it for me even though we didn't really know anything about it. It works well in the guns I load for. I'm not worried about match performance or chasing velocities yet because I don't shoot enough to worry about it so I just load to comfortable function and go to town.

Wow I wish my wife would buy me powder even if it was only a lb. When I bring it home I get the usual, "how much more powder do you need?"

 

[Leo]

I believe if you were to systematically test every available powder with precision instruments, you would find a different powder for every caliber you test. The best for .45acp will not be the best for 9mm, or .260 REM powder vs. 30-06. You and I do not have the time and resources to get to that level. Loading and actively shooting 15 or 17 calibers I had maybe 20 different partial jars of powder on the shelf. That is way too time consuming.

I decided to go another way. I worked out loads for a minimal powder complement. 12 gauge and pistols with TiteGroup, Medium rifles got Varget, magnum rifles got 4831. I came up with really good working loads for each caliber that way. A couple of pounds of AA# 9 was added for magnum pistol, and a slower shotgun powder added for 20 gauge. ,410 shotshell really did better with 4227. Polymer coated pistol bullets did better with AA#5, etc. I ended up back where I started.

IT IS possible to be able to cover workable loads with 3 powders, but if you tend to be an experimenter, you will tend to never settle for a simple plan.

 

[Hohn]

Truth. If you watch TV, that's time you could reload "free".

Also true. I don't watch TV, most of my "free" time is spent trying to learn more about shooting and firearms.

I agree also with the idea that hobbies are for fun. Heck, I could have a couple Barretts for what I have invested in my main hobby (electric guitar).

But there are only so many minutes, and it is wise to spend them in the way we each define as max value.

 

[Contender]

I reload for 9 calibers. Most save big $ and I have developed accurate loads. I do not load for the 9mm. Even though I cannot understand it, it saves about zero. I guess it depends on what a person does and their hobbies, but I have 3 other hobbies and 40 acres and a house to take care of. I don't reload a round that I can buy for the same price and am getting accuracy that I am happy with. To each his own, but I have to allote my time and do what makes sense.

To the op's original question, most books usually show a powder that gives them the best accuracy. I usually start there or with a powder I have if it is listed and then try something else if I am not getting the accuracy I am looking for.