Glock - returns to battery poorly after dissasembly.

[ryan3030]

I have a new Glock 19 Gen 4.

I installed an extended slide stop lever and 3.5lb ghost trigger connector.

After these installs the gun seems to return to battery harder than normal. You you pull the slide all the way back and let it go slowly until about 1/4" from being fully back into battery, then let it go, it will not go into battery. The barrel hooking back up into the slide is very 'rough' or 'sticky'.

Under normal, full-force operation, this is not a problem. I wouldn't be concerned if it were doing it all the time, but it didn't start until after I modified the pistol.

Has anyone seen this happen before? Any idea what is causing it?

 

[lonehoosier]

The only thing I can suggest is make sure the guide rod spring is sitting up in the correct pocket of the barrel.

 

[VN Vet]

I recommend you go to Youtube and watch the video The Glock Store presents on the installation of the items you listed. They go over the disassembly and reasessmbly of the pistol.

I go to Youtub for anything I think about doing to any firearm.

Good luck. The nice thing is, you have to really work hard to break a Glock. Even if you do find a way, it is all fixable.

 

[jontheturboguy]

If you're in the greenwood area ill look at it for you.

Certified armorer for local pd.

 

[palerider0485]

hmmmm. if you chamber a round slowly in any pistol it might hang up, id say it probuly done it before you put the parts in and u didnt notice it, you shouldnt retart the motion of the slide when your chambering a round,

 

[palerider0485]

sounds to me like the gun donst have a problum

 

[chezuki]

Unload pistol, remove the mag, and hold the pistol pointing up. Pull the slide slightly out of battery and release it. It should return to battery on its own unless there are issues.

 

[djhuckle]

I have a new Glock 19 Gen 4.

I installed an extended slide stop lever and 3.5lb ghost trigger connector.

After these installs the gun seems to return to battery harder than normal. You you pull the slide all the way back and let it go slowly until about 1/4" from being fully back into battery, then let it go, it will not go into battery. The barrel hooking back up into the slide is very 'rough' or 'sticky'.

Under normal, full-force operation, this is not a problem. I wouldn't be concerned if it were doing it all the time, but it didn't start until after I modified the pistol.

Has anyone seen this happen before? Any idea what is causing it?

You say it seems to do it, have you replaced all the parts and tried to compare it or are you comparing it with your memory OR a non-gen4 Glock side by side?

Right after I got my NIB Gen 4 (I have 2 older Glocks), I took it home and field stripped it. It had a weird feeling during part of the slide removal/replacement. Where I purchased it from, it was zip tied, so I didn't get to do it at the store. So I did some googling and discovered that there is a little bump on the part sticking up from the trigger bar that releases the safety plunger on the upper (terms might not be correct here, just strip it and you will see the bump). Apparently, this guides it better or something.

I was sort of po'd because it does feel rough for part of the travel when stripping, and had immediate remorse for not getting a gen3, but oh well. Many of the threads I read mentioned filing it off (not the smartest thing IMHO since it would weaken it of course) or buying an older replacement part and swapping it out.

As for not returning to battery, I've heard that's usually a spring issue unless there is binding from this "bump upgrade" on the Gen4. I have put in a extended slide release but not messed with the trigger. So I suppose you may have an issue with the trigger not being exactly correct and the bump is grinding more or something.

 

[djhuckle]

Ok, this might be a clue - I just checked on mine and if I pull the slide back 1/4" or so it seems to hit a notch (the chamber disconnects and is just under the slide at this point), but goes back into battery when I release it.

I would recommend replacing factory parts and see how it behaves then put new stuff in and make note of differences then take to armorer if there are problems at this point.

Good luck!

 

[djhuckle]

Oh yeah, back to the bump in the safety release bar thingy (technical term). You should notice the grinding/rough feel when that bump slides in the back of the upper when re-assembling then it smooths out for a bit then gets rough again right before it's in battery. That last 1/4" of the travel before it's in battery is that bump hitting the plunger safety. I assume your trigger is not exactly in spec or there is something fishy there. Hard to tell since it's inside when the action is going on, but you mention it works while firing or full release so I assume it's just one of those things. Maybe a drop of lube there?

Hold the slide up next to the lower at 90 degrees and you will see the plunger lined up with the bump.

 

[djhuckle]

NEW* glock gen 4 trigger modification - Gunsmithing - New Jersey Gun Forums

http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=5&f=13&t=109338

sorry should have put these in earlier post, just googled them

FYI, I thought about doing something but left it alone and it doesn't bother me personally.

 

[chezuki]

Ok, this might be a clue - I just checked on mine and if I pull the slide back 1/4" or so it seems to hit a notch (the chamber disconnects and is just under the slide at this point), but goes back into battery when I release it.

What you just described is kind of the definition of "Locking Breech". It's the design of the pistol, not a malfunction.

 

[djhuckle]

What you just described is kind of the definition of "Locking Breech". It's the design of the pistol, not a malfunction.

Yeah, point being - the bump could be binding and the lockup is not happening when it's released after being just pushed out of lock. That would be the malfunction. As I said, mine returns to battery fine when doing this.

 

[NHT3]

NEW* glock gen 4 trigger modification - Gunsmithing - New Jersey Gun Forums

Glock discontinuing gen 3 "bumpless" trigger bar? - AR15.Com Archive

sorry should have put these in earlier post, just googled them

FYI, I thought about doing something but left it alone and it doesn't bother me personally.

I'm sure it's not a serious problem.. Get an Armorer in your area to sort it out for you would be my first suggestion. I've never had a problem getting the trigger to 3.5 pounds and smooth WITHOUT filing on the trigger bar. Anyone with one of my trigger setups can attest to that. The bump is to stiffen and align the trigger bar with the FPS. Glock made a couple of obvious changes on the Gen 4 trigger bar because they were, what they considered improvements or they wouldn't have spent the money to redesign and change their tooling. When a guy starts talking about filing on anything in a trigger mechanism I turn the page.
Just my .02
PS for those that want to try this. Buy a Gen 3 trigger bar from Midway for $14 and save all that filing time.

[FONT=&amp]NRA Life member [/FONT][FONT=&amp]GSSF member[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
Gunsite graduate Certified Glock armorer[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]1911 Mechanic[/FONT]

 

[TheFireArmorer]

I'm not going to pretend like I really know what I'm talking about but here it goes:

I had a similar issue awhile back on my gen4 g27. I disassembled the pistol completely to do some cleaning. After reassembly, to check function, I pulled the trigger and held it back while cycling the slide. The slide should return to battery fully and reset the trigger.

But, instead i would have to release the trigger for the slide to travel the last 1/4" or so. I went out to test the gun and all of a sudden I'm getting 2 to 3 rounds fired with a single trigger squeeze. Scary stuff.

I went back inside and disassembled it again to find that the firing pin safety spring was not seated in the firing pin safety and was sort of just "stuck" sideways between the firing pin safety and the slide.

I reassembled it and everything was back to normal. Whether or not that was the cause of the issue, I'm not sure. But, that was the only thing I noticed that was wrong.

I've fully disassembled glocks countless times and that was the first time I'd ever had that happen.

 

[mvician]

Chances are the connector is "bent" out too far and hanging up on the slide.


Click the link for this GREAT animation on the operation of a GLOCK

Glock Pistol Animation

 

[n9znd]

My G26 did the same thing. Put back in the old connector and it it worked fine. The problem was I did not get the connector Assembly fully seated in and it was rubbing on the slide. Reistall the connector again and make sure everything goes back together like the old one and it will work. Jim