Colt Pocket Hammerless 1903/1908

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • geronimojoe85

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    26   0   0
    Nov 16, 2009
    3,716
    48
    The Colt Pocket Hammerless detailed in this thread is very special to me as it is the first gun that I remember being allowed to handle as a child. It is a nickel 1908 model in .380 acp, the nickel of course has seen better days, and the safety looks to have been replaced years ago. In fact the safety on this particular gun appears to be just for show as it doesn't fit properly and therefore does not work, I will fix that:


    While this model of firearm was an excellent carry piece in its day we are given much better options today. However, the Pocket Hammerless has a lot going for it even today, smooth lines, useable caliber (even in the .32), small grip for small hands, but still big enough to get all of your fingers on it and control the recoil which given the caliber is mild anyway. This pistol is really ideal for the recoil sensitive shooter to transition from the .22 to a caliber more substantial for carry. That is something that can't really be said for most carry guns today. This is why guns like the Walther PPK/S, PK380 and Bersa Thunder (to name a few) are still popular, they bridge the gap between shoot-able and carry-able. Now all that aside, this really isn't intended to be a primer on "how to get your loved ones to carry" this is a gunsmithing thread.
    As old as these guns are if you find one in good condition you will most certainly find that the inards are covered in dirt and gunk from over a century of use. This gun was no different, I went through it the first time the day before yesterday and it was gross! So let's get to it:

     

    geronimojoe85

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    26   0   0
    Nov 16, 2009
    3,716
    48
    First remove the magazine and lock the slide to the rear using the safety:

    Pull the slide back slightly and line up the mark with the front of the frame:



    When lines up properly rotate the barrel clockwise 180° and remove the slide:


    Remove the spring and guide from the slide:


    Push in the end cap, rotate the bushing 180°, and remove it:




    Rotate the barrel 180° and remove it from the slide:


    Using a punch drive out the extractor pin:


    Remove the extractor and spring:


    With a punch remove the pin that retains the end cap:


    Remove the end cap:
     

    geronimojoe85

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    26   0   0
    Nov 16, 2009
    3,716
    48
    Remove the grips:


    Release the hammer into it's forward position:


    Drive out the grip safety retaining pin:


    Remove the safety:
    (Picture missing)

    Lift the grip safety up and remove the V-spring:



    Remove the hammer:


    Remove the grip safety:


    Remove the leaf spring and magazine catch:


    With a punch drive out the sear pin:


    Remove the sear:


    Remove the trigger:


    Remove the ejector pin:


    Remove the ejector:
    Picture missing

    And that's it, bare bones:
     
    Last edited:

    geronimojoe85

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    26   0   0
    Nov 16, 2009
    3,716
    48
    To reassemble we will first place the trigger into it's slot in the frame:



    Place the ejector into it's place and drive in its pin:


    Place the sear into its place in the frame:



    Secure the sear with its pin:


    Place the magazine catch into place:


    Place the leaf spring in its slot:


    Place the grip safety into the frame:


    Place the V-spring in its slot:


    Drive in the grip safety retaining pin:


    Compress the grip safety and pull the trigger:


    Place the hammer into the frame and slide the safety into place. This can be a little tricky but it's the easiest way I've found to get everything together:


    The remainder of assembly can be accomplished by reversing the disassembly steps detailed above.
     
    Last edited:

    BGDave

    Master
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    207   0   0
    Sep 15, 2011
    2,665
    119
    Beech Grove
    Thanks for another good one. I see now where I made it hard on myself. I put the hammer in first. Then the safety. It's the little things.:thumbsup:
     

    geronimojoe85

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    26   0   0
    Nov 16, 2009
    3,716
    48
    As referenced in the first post the safety on this gun is INOPERABLE.
    The safety was not fit properly when installed and does not fit into the slide:


    With the slide removed the safety can reach its full travel and functions properly:


    So the culprit is too much material on the leading end go the safety:


    With a jewelers file I will slowly remove material until it fits, now it functions like a safety should:
     

    ghitch75

    livin' in the sticks
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    117   0   0
    Dec 21, 2009
    13,511
    83
    Greene County
    older models don't have a barrel bushing.....barrel has lugs at the muzzle end and rotates to remove slide and barrel....
     

    Leadeye

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 19, 2009
    36,878
    113
    .
    I still have a couple of those, great pistols IMHO, very classy design.

    With modern steels I surprised this design was not reintroduced in 9mm.:)
     

    warthog

    Shooter
    Rating - 100%
    66   0   0
    Feb 12, 2013
    5,166
    63
    Vigo County
    Those safeties were not factory, many of these had the added later in life to make the "safer" by popular demand. That's why most of them don't really work too well. Just an FYI from a former collector.
     

    walt o

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Feb 10, 2008
    1,099
    63
    Hammond
    The early m-1903 ,1-2 issue had the bushing for the barrel as well as longer barrel (1st issue)This was changed to a bushingless barrel on the 3-4th issue . The reason the safety wouldn't work is because someone braised the pin and lever together and did not align it correctly.The pin coming loose is a common The thumb safety is not an add on it was on the gun from the start of manufacturing. Same problem on the m-1908,.380cal
     

    ghitch75

    livin' in the sticks
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    117   0   0
    Dec 21, 2009
    13,511
    83
    Greene County
    The early m-1903 ,1-2 issue had the bushing for the barrel as well as longer barrel (1st issue)This was changed to a bushingless barrel on the 3-4th issue . The reason the safety wouldn't work is because someone braised the pin and lever together and did not align it correctly.The pin coming loose is a common The thumb safety is not an add on it was on the gun from the start of manufacturing. Same problem on the m-1908,.380cal

    thought i read that the 380's had no bushing in early models and bushing was from 1925 and up.......must have read it wrong......mine's a 1921 it has no bushing....
     
    Top Bottom