Any m&p owner get a apex trigger kit and regret it?

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  • chezuki

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    Mar 18, 2009
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    Well I just ordered the RAM and striker block. Hopefully it will be here in a few days. Will try to install them myself, hopefully it all goes well.

    If you're remotely mechanical, is pretty easy. You'll need a punch for the pins, a non-marring punch and an allen wrench for the rear sight. Here are videos that I used:

    http://youtu.be/UBIVbPP1CLIf

    http://youtu.be/FHr-IyejH7g

    http://youtu.be/q8J6LKkuHDI

    Be careful removing the rear sight. The spring for the striker block is under it and can go flying.
     

    Trigger Time

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    I believe Esrice did a great review or discussed the difference the apex kits make in the M&P pistols if I remember correctly. I have had mine for a few years now and it's wonderful and I've never had the parts fail. The apex parts make a HUGE difference! Your not getting the most out of your M&P without the upgrade!
     

    chezuki

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    I believe Esrice did a great review or discussed the difference the apex kits make in the M&P pistols if I remember correctly.

    This guy here seems to know what he's talking about...
    Here's a break down:

    DCAEK-"Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit"= utimate striker block w/spring (removes grit and smooths pull), hard sear w/spring (removes over travel, lowers pull weight, and slightly improves reset), duty/carry trigger return spring (raises trigger pull back up some to meet duty standards)

    CompAEK-"Competetion Action Enhancement Kit"= utimate striker block w/spring (removes grit and smooths pull), hard sear w/spring (removes over travel, lowers pull weight, and slightly improves reset), lighter comp trigger return spring (further reduces pull), and comp striker spring (also reduces pull weight).

    The Aluminum AEK trigger was designed to replace the stock hinged trigger if desired and can be used in conjunction with any combination of factory parts or the above kits but is not to be confused with the FSS which outwardly looks very similar.

    RAM- "Reset Assist Mechanism"= an optional kit that "improves" tactile/audible trigger reset. If you are prefer a "Glockish" trigger, this will make you feel right at home. Coming from a Glock myself, I planned on installing one but never got around to it. After getting used to the platform, I no longer think the RAM is necessary.

    FSS- "Front Set Sear"= completely different trigger group, springs and sear than and not compatable with the others. Totally changes the geometry of the pull and moves the break point much further forward with very little pre or over travel. Feels almost like a single action trigger.

    Hope this helps.
     

    RobbyMaQ

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    Tip: Put the slide in a 1gallon sandwich baggie when removing the rear sight. If anything goes flying, it won't get lost.
     

    BlueCow

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    Well over the weekend i ordered the ram and usb (sounds like im building a computer) anyway they came in the mail today and i installed them myself, my first time disassembling this gun this far down, but i was able to do both jobs in under an hour from start to finish. it really made the trigger smooooooothe and i can actually feel the reset, ohh, and the baggie idea is fantastic! that spring went shooting off right into the bag.
    here is what i got: https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid20.html and this https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid44.html i am really glad the ultimate striker block came with the sight install tool, kept me from loosing the disk under the rear sight. they show an aluminum disk but mine is a plastic one with a sort of nub that fits into the spring.
    and these were the videos i watched to learn the instal process. i didnt even have a pin punch set so went to get one from lowes
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQhKc_9V7tc
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEaVMxkp8PM
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjIGPqh083E

    Cant wait to go to the range, get my sights adjusted again, and enjoy shooting.
     
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    RobbyMaQ

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    is it hard to realign the rear sight after replacing the plunger?

    Not really. Make a mark prior to removal. Get your sight back on that mark after install.
    Go out and shoot. If it needs drifting, go back and drift it into place.
    Once it is in it's correct spot, add some blue loctite on the set screw threads, and tighten down the allen screw.
     

    derrickgoins

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    is it hard to realign the rear sight after replacing the plunger?

    When I did mine, I took a thin silver sharpie and drew a line across the rear sight on to the slide so that when I put it back together, I could get it aligned easier. The sharpie line came off with hoppes solvent without an issue. I just put the hoppes on a patch and wiped the line off.
     

    RobbyMaQ

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    ...they show an aluminum disk but mine is a plastic one with a sort of nub that fits into the spring....
    I noticed this on my newer M&P pro. Wasn't sure if this was a new feature for all M&P pistols, or exclusive to the pro at the time.
     

    Boost Lee

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    When I've torn it down to clean and am just pulling the trigger, the grittiness feels kind of nasty to me...

    But to be honest, when I'm shooting, It doesn't bother me one bit.

    I have to say though, with my FS M&P40, my trigger reset is great. No complaints; even better than my G22.
     

    RobbyMaQ

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    USB plunger gets rid of grit feeling. See Chezuki's post and comparison image earlier in this thread.
    However, it is my understanding, that over time (500+ rounds as reported by some) that this grit 'goes away'. My guess is by wear/smoothing on the plunger.

    The apex sear will give you a more consistent and clean break.
     

    vwfred69

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    USB plunger gets rid of grit feeling. See Chezuki's post and comparison image earlier in this thread.
    However, it is my understanding, that over time (500+ rounds as reported by some) that this grit 'goes away'. My guess is by wear/smoothing on the plunger.

    The apex sear will give you a more consistent and clean break.
    from what I have read if you have the newer trigger the apex sear isn't that different, but I could be wrong. Also I purchased my gun used and have shot 650+ rounds and the trigger is still gritty
     

    netsecurity

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    Cock the gun first. Does the trigger still feel gritty? Mine have a pretty clean break. It only feels a bit gritty if I squeeze the trigger while it isnt cocked, which is irrelevant. However, I once was concerned about such things, so I sanded the top of the trigger bar where it makes contact with the FP block. I also removed the sear and sanded it lightly, and the bend in the trigger bar that contacts the sear. It works smoother now, as anything would after a light polish. The bottom line is that I like the default trigger on my M&P's. The only real issue is the mushy reset, but that has never affected my shooting, even when doing steel challenges (double taps). Yes, the Glock and PPQ click when they reset and the M&P does not.
     

    MadCHETNIK

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    I have the APEX competition trigger in my S&W CORE 9mm and the carry trigger in my Shield 9mm both removed the gritty feel that is always referenced in both of those two handguns. Bruce at Blythes in Valparaiso did the installs for me.
     

    Steve B

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    I went with the FSS and wouldn't have it any other way. I've always hated the long trigger pull on this style of gun. Plus I have arthritis in my first two fingers so pulling that far back is uncomfortable. The FSS solved this. Everyone that has shot it loves it.

    As far as reset. I don't need to feel the reset I know where it is. I can honestly say I have never once fired a pistol and went to fire it again and went, "Damn it didn't reset." What's next a LED light or beeper to let you know when it's ready to fire? To each his own. I've never understood the need for it though.
     

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