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AK build party
- Thread starter pwoller
- Start date
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why i got exactly that psl kit + nodak spud recevier+ a heavy profile barrel in the works but im not sharing lol standby for that build
thats still abit high in my eyes but for right now that better than 90% of the romy kits i see people selling on akfiles ... now $300 or $350 and id jump on it
I would. Barrels are harder to find right now. Usually, you pay an extra 75-100 for a new barrel plus another 60-80 for a receiver.
vitk if ur really looking for a psl receiver tgi tnguns.com does have a few of the nodak spud square backs in stock.... little pricey from what centerfire was selling them for a while back but they do still have them think there about $200 or $210 shipped and apex still has ur kits minus the barrel..... and prexis is making new barrels profiled however u would like them i ordered a heavy profile all is orginal till after the rear sight then it keeps a straight profile alot more material but u would have to custom make a front sight/gas block
$215 shipped if ur a member of weapon guild worth joining for that other wise on there site its $240 .... but keep in mind its a 4 to 6 month wait hes a one man show just like black jacks hkrinkov barrels
keep in mind he will do any profile u want as long as u provide the spec's on the site its standard profile only time frame is the same
keep in mind he will do any profile u want as long as u provide the spec's on the site its standard profile only time frame is the same
this guy runs smaller batches due to the crazy barrels he makes ..... he did my PKT barrel for my PKT/PKM build im doing dont ask when ill get to that one but i do have all the parts now at least
If you don't buy it, let me know where it is. I may be interested.
So the saga of the builds continues...
This time, not everything went right. The bad news, my clamp slipped slightly during reaming and my hole egged slightly. I had to order a larger barrel pin (actually I ordered several) and I will use a rat tail file to get a good hole for the new pin. So the morale of this story, if you have a virgin barrel, be VERY careful drilling and be prepared to go a size bigger. Not a big deal just a pain.
So there will be debate on when to drill a new barrel hole. Some say before the trunnion is installed, some say after. I don't think it matters that much but without the receiver installed, it is easier for me to do the headspace. I have to remove the barrel to install the trunnion but this extra step takes 5 minutes.
I am not going to assume everyone knows how the go and no-go gauge works so I'll show the process on how I headspace.
First, you have to disassemble the bolt. Remove the extractor and the firing pin. This makes it much easier to use the gauges and get a more accurate measurement. It is also a good time to really clean the bolt. You will find dirt and cosmoline in everything. If you don't know how to disassemble a bolt, look on YouTube.
So what are the differences of the gauges. The go gauge on the caliper.
The no go gauge on the caliper.
We are not talking about a lot of difference but it is essential we get it right. After lining up the barrel so the gas port hole is up and center, I install the barrel on the trunnion using my T-jig. I know generally where to stop short so the barrel isn't pushed too far.
I take the T-jig off and split the trunnion. Install the go gauge and the disassembled bolt. I twist the bolt so it would in the closed bolt position (if you don't know what that means, you will see a closeup). This is where you have to be VERY careful. You can damage the bolt if you go too fast. Once your press is giving any resistance, jiggle the bolt. If it moves, pull the press lever down slightly, jiggle again, and repeat. You should notice the amount of space jiggling each time decreasing. When you feel very little movement or none at all (the lever should also resist your pull a lot more), then don't pull again.
Remove the barrel and trunnion and test the go gauge again. You should twist to the closed position. The lug is twisted all the way to the edge.
Remove the go gauge and test the no go gauge. It should NOT be able to twist to the closed position. The lug cannot twist all the way to the edge. It barely twists at all.
And that is how you do it. It's not hard, you just have to be careful and not rush it.
This time, not everything went right. The bad news, my clamp slipped slightly during reaming and my hole egged slightly. I had to order a larger barrel pin (actually I ordered several) and I will use a rat tail file to get a good hole for the new pin. So the morale of this story, if you have a virgin barrel, be VERY careful drilling and be prepared to go a size bigger. Not a big deal just a pain.
So there will be debate on when to drill a new barrel hole. Some say before the trunnion is installed, some say after. I don't think it matters that much but without the receiver installed, it is easier for me to do the headspace. I have to remove the barrel to install the trunnion but this extra step takes 5 minutes.
I am not going to assume everyone knows how the go and no-go gauge works so I'll show the process on how I headspace.
First, you have to disassemble the bolt. Remove the extractor and the firing pin. This makes it much easier to use the gauges and get a more accurate measurement. It is also a good time to really clean the bolt. You will find dirt and cosmoline in everything. If you don't know how to disassemble a bolt, look on YouTube.
So what are the differences of the gauges. The go gauge on the caliper.
The no go gauge on the caliper.
We are not talking about a lot of difference but it is essential we get it right. After lining up the barrel so the gas port hole is up and center, I install the barrel on the trunnion using my T-jig. I know generally where to stop short so the barrel isn't pushed too far.
I take the T-jig off and split the trunnion. Install the go gauge and the disassembled bolt. I twist the bolt so it would in the closed bolt position (if you don't know what that means, you will see a closeup). This is where you have to be VERY careful. You can damage the bolt if you go too fast. Once your press is giving any resistance, jiggle the bolt. If it moves, pull the press lever down slightly, jiggle again, and repeat. You should notice the amount of space jiggling each time decreasing. When you feel very little movement or none at all (the lever should also resist your pull a lot more), then don't pull again.
Remove the barrel and trunnion and test the go gauge again. You should twist to the closed position. The lug is twisted all the way to the edge.
Remove the go gauge and test the no go gauge. It should NOT be able to twist to the closed position. The lug cannot twist all the way to the edge. It barely twists at all.
And that is how you do it. It's not hard, you just have to be careful and not rush it.
Last edited:
Here is a helpful website to convert measurements from fractional, decimal, and metric. I would bookmark it. I refer to it all the time.
Drill Size Conversion Table
Finishing the receiver build as I wait for the new pin to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). The front is done and the rear trunnion will be done tonight. Once I have the barrel pinned I can work on drilling/pinning the sights and gas block.
Drill Size Conversion Table
Finishing the receiver build as I wait for the new pin to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). The front is done and the rear trunnion will be done tonight. Once I have the barrel pinned I can work on drilling/pinning the sights and gas block.
rwhitmore8
Plinker
I've got bending jigs, rivet jigs, a press, spot welder, the whole 9 yards I can contribute if it works out. I just need some rivets and barrel pins.
Chris08110
Plinker
Anybody seen any parts kits in stock anywhere? I have a flat to bend if nothing else. I'd love to find a fixed stock kit before the build.
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