Can you elaborate on that because I am the guy that has to change out the eighty dollar module when someone trips the saw usually from running a laminate with metal through it. Takes less than 5 minutes. FWIW they have a bypass switch that allows you to cut things that might otherwise trigger the mechanism. The blade is considered to be junk after the mechanism is activated, I always get the blade loose and send it out for sharpening, 70 percent of the time it gets sharpened and goes back into service. As to the saw stop mechanism being too robust for cheaper saws I take that with a grain of salt. The saw stop cabinet saws are a much improved design over the Unisaw which was designed before WWII. Maybe they improved things but their dust collection is poorly designed on our saw. They also make a portable contractor saw but I have never used or worked on one.Nobody has mentioned the fact that this saw stop technology completely destroys the saw when activated.
There are videos on this online. Imagine going from 3600 rpm to 0 in a millisecond. Like sticking a rod in a fast moving bicycle wheel or better yet doing 60 and hitting a brick wall. No way to do it yet without tearing the snot out of the mechanism. Kinetic energy has to be dissipated. Think crumple zones in Indy cars and why drivers now walk away from accidents instead of being gurnied away.Can you elaborate on that because I am the guy that has to change out the eighty dollar module when someone trips the saw usually from running a laminate with metal through it. Takes less than 5 minutes. FWIW they have a bypass switch that allows you to cut things that might otherwise trigger the mechanism. The blade is considered to be junk after the mechanism is activated, I always get the blade loose and send it out for sharpening, 70 percent of the time it gets sharpened and goes back into service. As to the saw stop mechanism being too robust for cheaper saws I take that with a grain of salt. The saw stop cabinet saws are a much improved design over the Unisaw which was designed before WWII. Maybe they improved things but their dust collection is poorly designed on our saw. They also make a portable contractor saw but I have never used or worked on one.
In a commercial application even with its premium price buying a stop saw is a no brainer for its better design, the safety is a bonus.
A few years ago I was welding a gross of large parts bins together in one of HDP's local plastic injection plants. The other contractor had a young man that was grinding a few feet from me with a 4 1/2" grinder without a guard along with a 6" cutoff wheel on it.All that being said if someone gets hurt for being an idiot I always ask them if they mind me taking a picture to show the floor guys. Then I write ridiculously detailed reports to show the guys too. Can't let them get hurt themselves but if we show them pictures and reports of grinder injuries ranging from paper cuts to ground off flesh they get that ouchie mistake by proxy and then grinder accidents go down.
When I bought my Powermatic I had a hard time deciding between the Unisaw and the 66.Can you elaborate on that because I am the guy that has to change out the eighty dollar module when someone trips the saw usually from running a laminate with metal through it. Takes less than 5 minutes. FWIW they have a bypass switch that allows you to cut things that might otherwise trigger the mechanism. The blade is considered to be junk after the mechanism is activated, I always get the blade loose and send it out for sharpening, 70 percent of the time it gets sharpened and goes back into service. As to the saw stop mechanism being too robust for cheaper saws I take that with a grain of salt. The saw stop cabinet saws are a much improved design over the Unisaw which was designed before WWII. Maybe they improved things but their dust collection is poorly designed on our saw. They also make a portable contractor saw but I have never used or worked on one.
In a commercial application even with its premium price buying a stop saw is a no brainer for its better design, the safety is a bonus.
My information might very well be out of date.Can you elaborate on that because I am the guy that has to change out the eighty dollar module when someone trips the saw usually from running a laminate with metal through it. Takes less than 5 minutes. FWIW they have a bypass switch that allows you to cut things that might otherwise trigger the mechanism. The blade is considered to be junk after the mechanism is activated, I always get the blade loose and send it out for sharpening, 70 percent of the time it gets sharpened and goes back into service. As to the saw stop mechanism being too robust for cheaper saws I take that with a grain of salt. The saw stop cabinet saws are a much improved design over the Unisaw which was designed before WWII. Maybe they improved things but their dust collection is poorly designed on our saw. They also make a portable contractor saw but I have never used or worked on one.
In a commercial application even with its premium price buying a stop saw is a no brainer for its better design, the safety is a bonus.
Schools still teach shop class?Pretty cool technology and probably a good thing for any schools still teaching shop class.
Good thing I don't get my knowledge about these things from watching vids but by using them and changing the module when someone else has tripped them. Probably lots of vids and pics of guys cutting themselves on table saws but I have never done that myself either in 50 plus years of using table saws.There are videos on this online. Imagine going from 3600 rpm to 0 in a millisecond. Like sticking a rod in a fast moving bicycle wheel or better yet doing 60 and hitting a brick wall. No way to do it yet without tearing the snot out of the mechanism. Kinetic energy has to be dissipated. Think crumple zones in Indy cars and why drivers now walk away from accidents instead of being gurnied away.
Either that, or hand held track saws will gain tremendous market share. Not quite as nice for ripping many similar strips, but for a typical homeowner using a saw half a dozen times per year may be the ticket for both cost and safety.Sounds like a good opportunity to make a table that allows you to drop in a skill saw upside down in the same manner as a router table.
I have an old Craftsman cabinet model from 1953 and have the catalog that it was ordered out of .I occasionally watch "This Old House". These Saw Stop mechanisms have been shown off in their show more than once ... and I don't watch it everytime it is on. They test it with a hot dog. And, the hot dog comes out looking very good.
For me personally, I think pushing a piece of wood through with a scrap piece of wood is fine.
Here is my old saw. It is from the 1950's. I made the base so that I could roll it to the shed and back to the garage when I want.
View attachment 345362 View attachment 345363
Not happening. he mentions in the video the mechanism itself adds at LEAST $200 to the saw.Either that, or hand held track saws will gain tremendous market share. Not quite as nice for ripping many similar strips, but for a typical homeowner using a saw half a dozen times per year may be the ticket for both cost and safety.
For the argument that cheap saws aren't strong to survive an event... Maybe not. But if harbor freight makes one for $200 including the sensor... People may just consider them disposable.
Rick
When I was the second shift bossman I had a kid try to shove a 4 1/2" 36 grit disk into a 4" channel... it was messy. Got to see what the inside of an elbow and bicep look like. But after that all the guys that seen it were really safe with the grinders. It's crazy what a 4 1/2" grinder can do, even crazier seeing what a 9" grinder can do.A few years ago I was welding a gross of large parts bins together in one of HDP's local plastic injection plants. The other contractor had a young man that was grinding a few feet from me with a 4 1/2" grinder without a guard along with a 6" cutoff wheel on it.
I said hey son, either get the right wheel or the right grinder before it blows up on you.
3 min later, I'm the one going to get a handful of stitches in my left forearm.
You bet!!!When I was the second shift bossman I had a kid try to shove a 4 1/2" 36 grit disk into a 4" channel... it was messy. Got to see what the inside of an elbow and bicep look like. But after that all the guys that seen it were really safe with the grinders. It's crazy what a 4 1/2" grinder can do, even crazier seeing what a 9" grinder can do.
Meh. My saw has a 26 hp engine and can rip 8’ of 16” wide oak in 45 seconds. I could thin-section a body in as many slices as ya’d like.