New car advice

[StayTrue76]

Thinking about a new car. I'm an original owner of my 2 cars now (bought new) and they've run as long as I take care of them. So I want to buy new or nearly new.

Once I find the car I want, any pointers on buying through a website vs. through the dealership. I heard the stories about how the dealership can jack up the price with add-ons. I know it's a pretty vague question, but been out of the game now for a while any recommendations / pointers would be appreciated.

 

[firecadet613]

Thinking about a new car. I'm an original owner of my 2 cars now (bought new) and they've run as long as I take care of them. So I want to buy new or nearly new.

Once I find the car I want, any pointers on buying through a website vs. through the dealership. I heard the stories about how the dealership can jack up the price with add-ons. I know it's a pretty vague question, but been out of the game now for a while any recommendations / pointers would be appreciated.

Find the car online and negotiate via text or email. I never head to the dealership until the deal is done, unless it's a test drive and I'm not negotiating while I'm there.

Follow / search these guys for some great info.

https://twitter.com/GuyDealership

https://twitter.com/carsales_guy

 

[1nderbeard]

It's gonna be more expensive the longer you wait. I've (hopefully) got another 10 years' use in both my cars. Both have just over 100K. One is a honda and one a toyota. Religious maintenance observed.

 

[StayTrue76]

It's gonna be more expensive the longer you wait. I've (hopefully) got another 10 years' use in both my cars. Both have just over 100K. One is a honda and one a toyota. Religious maintenance observed.

I've got 2 Hondas...15 & 21 years old....about 150K on each. We're due, but they're both still running so not in a pinch. Same with the maintenance & both garage kept. I'm just trying to get ready for the first replacement as it'll be near term, perhaps after a NWI winter.

 

[StayTrue76]

Find the car online and negotiate via text or email. I never head to the dealership until the deal is done, unless it's a test drive and I'm not negotiating while I'm there.

Follow / search these guys for some great info.

https://twitter.com/GuyDealership

https://twitter.com/carsales_guy

Good point. I don't need to physical be there once I find what I'm going for. Could also start up a few thread and see where I land a few different places. Thanks, never really thought of doing a little dealer distance negotiation.

 

[Nugget]

Find the car online and negotiate via text or email. I never head to the dealership until the deal is done.

This is quality advice. If you already know exactly what car you want, email all of the dealers in a 100 mile radius to request a quote. The online sales guys usually cut right to the chase. Plus, once you have a quote from 2 or 3, you can play them off each other. When we bought our Mazda, we had one dealer give us a quote and tell us to give him last look. When we told him we had gotten a better offer, he asked if we'd let him beat it by $100. I told him the number, and he accused me of lying because he said it was already too good of a deal. No negotiating necessary. Just showed up, signed the paperwork, and left.

 

[1nderbeard]

I've got 2 Hondas...15 & 21 years old....about 150K on each. We're due, but they're both still running so not in a pinch. Same with the maintenance & both garage kept. I'm just trying to get ready for the first replacement as it'll be near term, perhaps after a NWI winter.

well used cars are going for a lot now. It may make sense to get max trade in and get a good deal on the last pre-uaw new cars.
I like my Tundra too much to trade it in.

 

[spencer rifle]

Good luck with the depreciation.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

If you're buying new, see what the price is if you order one and wait for it vs off the lot. At least with the domestics, you can often get a better deal that way as it doesn't count against their allocations. I don't keep track of deals on foreign makes, so I can't give you any specifics there, but if you are interested in Ford or Ram I can send you a few dealers to get quotes from.

What I've done is I email every dealer in a radius I'm willing to travel to, say 250 miles, and get a bid on a specific car. Then I take the ones who answered, tell them the current low bid, say I'm ready to buy on x date, and to send their best bid. After that round, I buy if anyone met the price I'm willing to go to. For something as expensive and tough to find as my Power Wagon I was willing to fly to any major airport and drive home if it made sense. I ended up buying it in Illinois and driving home. My truck before that, my Camaro, and my wife's car, I bought in Greenwood after getting bids from dealers in IN, KY, IL, OH, and KY.

 

[StayTrue76]

This is quality advice. If you already know exactly what car you want, email all of the dealers in a 100 mile radius to request a quote. The online sales guys usually cut right to the chase. Plus, once you have a quote from 2 or 3, you can play them off each other. When we bought our Mazda, we had one dealer give us a quote and tell us to give him last look. When we told him we had gotten a better offer, he asked if we'd let him beat it by $100. I told him the number, and he accused me of lying because he said it was already too good of a deal. No negotiating necessary. Just showed up, signed the paperwork, and left.

Cool. That's the approach I'm hoping to take. Pretty hands off. I really do not want to waste a big chunk of my free time at a car dealership. Been there, done that.

 

[jd4320t]

My 2014 Accord has 203k on it and it’s not going anywhere anytime soon. Just put a new starter on it and serviced it.

Seems like you want a new car, don’t need one. I wouldn’t do it.

If you do, don’t trade either of your Hondas in no matter what and pay cash.

 

[StayTrue76]

If you're buying new, see what the price is if you order one and wait for it vs off the lot. At least with the domestics, you can often get a better deal that way as it doesn't count against their allocations. I don't keep track of deals on foreign makes, so I can't give you any specifics there, but if you are interested in Ford or Ram I can send you a few dealers to get quotes from.

What I've done is I email every dealer in a radius I'm willing to travel to, say 250 miles, and get a bid on a specific car. Then I take the ones who answered, tell them the current low bid, say I'm ready to buy on x date, and to send their best bid. After that round, I buy if anyone met the price I'm willing to go to. For something as expensive and tough to find as my Power Wagon I was willing to fly to any major airport and drive home if it made sense. I ended up buying it in Illinois and driving home. My truck before that, my Camaro, and my wife's car, I bought in Greenwood after getting bids from dealers in IN, KY, IL, OH, and KY.

I do like the multi-state approach if there's $ to be saved. I'm NWI, so IN, IL, MI, and WI are possibilities if the price is right. I figure since I have a little time, I can get things figure out then pull the trigger when I'm ready. I did also read the the last 2 days of the year have historically be deal time. Who knows, but I'm keeping a more watchful eye on things now. Thx for the advice.

 

[StayTrue76]

My 2014 Accord has 203k on it and it’s not going anywhere anytime soon. Just put a new starter on it and serviced it.

Seems like you want a new car, don’t need one. I wouldn’t do it.

If you do, don’t trade either of your Hondas in no matter what and pay cash.

LOL. Agreed I don't need one. I know the Hondas will go forever if you treat them right. My better 1/2 is ready for a new car.....or "soon." We've already had family friends as about the older one. It sure is fantastic to not have a car payment. A little extra money to have fun with life hobbies. :-)

 

[firecadet613]

I do like the multi-state approach if there's $ to be saved. I'm NWI, so IN, IL, MI, and WI are possibilities if the price is right. I figure since I have a little time, I can get things figure out then pull the trigger when I'm ready. I did also read the the last 2 days of the year have historically be deal time. Who knows, but I'm keeping a more watchful eye on things now. Thx for the advice.

The end of the month is a few days away, start your emails now!

 

[indykid]

Keep an eye open for Certified Pre-owned vehicles. I bought one that was previously a leased car and it has been like buying a new car with the depreciation paid for. I could not have afforded the car new, but even though it was 3 years old, it was like new, with a warrantee and a much lower price.

Per leasing standards the vehicle needs to be maintained per the manufacturer and has to be taken care of. Most lease returns have been taken care of due to the penalties for not taking care of the vehicle. Another benefit of Certified Pre-owned is they come with a warrantee usually for an additional 2 or more years.

 

[oze]

Thinking about a new car. I'm an original owner of my 2 cars now (bought new) and they've run as long as I take care of them. So I want to buy new or nearly new.

Once I find the car I want, any pointers on buying through a website vs. through the dealership. I heard the stories about how the dealership can jack up the price with add-ons. I know it's a pretty vague question, but been out of the game now for a while any recommendations / pointers would be appreciated.

I heartily recommend Car Edge. I spent some time with their tools, videos and forums before my purchase. I ended up getting an in-demand car for $5,000 below MSRP. Out the door. Always focus on out the door price.

CarEdge - Buy, Sell, Insure, Save

CarEdge is the single best place to buy, sell, insure, and protect a new or used car. Save time & money with real advice from auto experts.

my.caredge.com

 

[oze]

The end of the month is a few days away, start your emails now!

If you can wait, the end of December gives you a triple bonus: end of the month, end of the quarter, end of the year.

 

[oze]

I do like the multi-state approach if there's $ to be saved. I'm NWI, so IN, IL, MI, and WI are possibilities if the price is right. I figure since I have a little time, I can get things figure out then pull the trigger when I'm ready. I did also read the the last 2 days of the year have historically be deal time. Who knows, but I'm keeping a more watchful eye on things now. Thx for the advice.

Car Edge has email templates for the various stages of negotiation. I used them to request out the door prices from 5 dealers, one of which was willing to give me the information that I asked for. Settled everything via email and one phone call. I had to drive 160 miles round trip to Mishawaka, but it was well worth it. Even getting a written offer on my trade-in was done via email. It would have been a 20 minute visit, but the salesperson actually recommended that I take Kia's $1800 offer and finance with them (I was planning on paying cash). So I did, then paid off the loan as soon as I got my first statement. The only cost was a temporary 12 point hit to my FICO score.

 

[firecadet613]

If you can wait, the end of December gives you a triple bonus: end of the month, end of the quarter, end of the year.

True, but there's no telling what the car market will be two months from now.

When I decide to buy, I buy/order...

 

[StayTrue76]

I heartily recommend Car Edge. I spent some time with their tools, videos and forums before my purchase. I ended up getting an in-demand car for $5,000 below MSRP. Out the door. Always focus on out the door price.

CarEdge - Buy, Sell, Insure, Save

CarEdge is the single best place to buy, sell, insure, and protect a new or used car. Save time & money with real advice from auto experts.

my.caredge.com

Cool, I'll check it out. Thx for the tip!