THE CZickness XLIX....Tackling 2023 with CZ style...

[mcapo]

I don't understand how a .22LR can keyhole in that short of a distance unless it has the rifling filled with lead or is a smoothbore. Makes me think I may not know everything yet. What is the twist rate?

What he isn't telling you, is that he is in training:

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tenor.com

 

[mcapo]

I don't think he's into cap and ball stuff.

I'd like to learn more about that era of firearms and jump in.

 

[mcapo]

It's the part about lots of cash that threw me off

You have been provided inaccurate information.

 

[T-DOGG]

I'll tumble for ya. Sing it with me?

 

[Bennettjh]

I'll tumble for ya. Sing it with me?

View attachment 250172

Hmm. That's interesting. I'm looking forward to see how this plays out.

 

[Firehawk]

Busy day today! Had repairs in Richmond, New Castle, Greensburg and Lebanon today. At least the last one was close to home.

And I made time to make that little deal work out!

 

[T-DOGG]

Hmm. That's interesting. I'm looking forward to see how this plays out.

I'm investigating the barrel for severe leading....

 

[patience0830]

I don't know what the twist rate is. I'll get some pics of the keyholing from 15 yards. The leading would have to be so bad that it looks like a really clean barrel. Is that even possible? Serious question.

Twist is probably 1 in 16. Pretty standard for .22 rimfire bbls. 1 in 20 for a dedicated shorts bbl.

 

[Firehawk]

Picked this up today in my little deal!

Nothing too special, just a Tisas, but it gets me a decent 1911 .45 again. Here’s how my little deal went down. I had inherited a Llama 1911 clone that was the roughest fit and finish of any 1911 I’ve ever seen. It worked, but it was rough. I finally decided I had no reason to keep it. It had no sentimental value, it was ugly to look at and nothing I’d choose to shoot. So I posted it in the classifieds, sold it and picked this one up out of the classifieds for $50 more than I sold the Llama! This Tisas looks hardly used. It needs worked over though. All the springs still feel “new” stiff and the trigger isn’t light. But it’s at least worth working on, looks clean and should be a good shooter. At the very least, at some point I’ll lighten and smooth the trigger out and put some wood grip panels on it.

 

[ChrisK]

If anyone here has a P-07 and has a interest in a Kadet Kit for it let me know. Thinking about moving it down the road.

 

[Born2vette]

If anyone here has a P-07 and has a interest in a Kadet Kit for it let me know. Thinking about moving it down the road.

I’ve been thinking about picking up a P-07 if one comes by me cheap enough down the road a bit

Right now though…

 

[Benp]

If anyone here has a P-07 and has a interest in a Kadet Kit for it let me know. Thinking about moving it down the road.

I'm interested

 

[Benp]

Picked this up today in my little deal!

Nothing too special, just a Tisas, but it gets me a decent 1911 .45 again. Here’s how my little deal went down. I had inherited a Llama 1911 clone that was the roughest fit and finish of any 1911 I’ve ever seen. It worked, but it was rough. I finally decided I had no reason to keep it. It had no sentimental value, it was ugly to look at and nothing I’d choose to shoot. So I posted it in the classifieds, sold it and picked this one up out of the classifieds for $50 more than I sold the Llama! This Tisas looks hardly used. It needs worked over though. All the springs still feel “new” stiff and the trigger isn’t light. But it’s at least worth working on, looks clean and should be a good shooter. At the very least, at some point I’ll lighten and smooth the trigger out and put some wood grip panels on it.

View attachment 250197

I looked at that ad a few times. I think this one can turn out pretty sweet!

 

[gmcttr]

I don't know what the twist rate is. I'll get some pics of the keyholing from 15 yards. The leading would have to be so bad that it looks like a really clean barrel. Is that even possible? Serious question.

No, the leading would be so bad that you may not even be able to see the rifling in areas. Especially right after the throat.

This is my original TX22 barrel the was so rough that it completely leaded up. Photos were taken with a borescope.







The "roughness" in the photos is lead build up. The cutting tool chatter is hidden.

 

[WebSnyper]

Picked this up today in my little deal!

Nothing too special, just a Tisas, but it gets me a decent 1911 .45 again. Here’s how my little deal went down. I had inherited a Llama 1911 clone that was the roughest fit and finish of any 1911 I’ve ever seen. It worked, but it was rough. I finally decided I had no reason to keep it. It had no sentimental value, it was ugly to look at and nothing I’d choose to shoot. So I posted it in the classifieds, sold it and picked this one up out of the classifieds for $50 more than I sold the Llama! This Tisas looks hardly used. It needs worked over though. All the springs still feel “new” stiff and the trigger isn’t light. But it’s at least worth working on, looks clean and should be a good shooter. At the very least, at some point I’ll lighten and smooth the trigger out and put some wood grip panels on it.

View attachment 250197

Now that deal worked out. I'd have made that upgrade for that money all day, and twice on Sunday.

 

[T-DOGG]

I remember the leading from my TX22. This is much smoother to the naked eye. Best I can tell, this barrel is leaded enough to where the bore is smaller and the rifling isn't prominent while looking down the barrel and looking at the slugged lead from earlier. Internet says chore boy pure copper scrubbing brush is the trick. I have Hoppes 9. Any other recommendations welcome.

Best I can do on the pictures.




Below is is the 6" barrel that shoots good.



Slugs from earlier, good barrel on left. Notice the strong definition of the rifling. Bore size is larger on good barrel too. I know that doesn't necessarily mean anything by itself, but it adds to the dilemma.

 

[gmcttr]

How do I post Amazon links?

 

[gmcttr]

Best I can do on the pictures.

The rifling looks good at the muzzle. I wouldn't put much concern in the different depths of rifling.

Make sure it looks that good in the throat and forward.

Chore Boy copper scrub pads (not a cheap knock off that is copper coated steel) is what you want.

Take a few strands of it and wrap them around a worn out bronze brush to remove lead. Use with Hoppes 9 or a lead remover.

 

[T-DOGG]

The rifling looks good at the muzzle. I wouldn't put much concern in the different depths of rifling.

Make sure it looks that good in the throat and forward.

Chore Boy copper scrub pads (not a cheap knock off that is copper coated steel) is what you want.

Take a few strands of it and wrap them around a worn out bronze brush to remove lead. Use with Hoppes 9 or a lead remover.

I can only really see the muzzle end. I don't have a borescope. What I can see a little further down the barrel, from the muzzle end, looks a little "frosty" if that makes sense. A few of the lands don't look that great to me.

You've echoed what I read earlier about chore boy. Thank you.

 

[gmcttr]

I can only really see the muzzle end. I don't have a borescope.

I texted you a link to the borescope I have. $56