They're 2-piece bushings though, so I've got to push each side out from the inside of the hub. I'm not sure how that would work with a press. There's a gap between the 2 pieces, so that's where I was beating on them with the mallet and screwdriver.
I had the blueberry pancake, bacon and eggs again.
If they give you grief, I suggest cutting a slot in them, from the inside out (so from the axle shaft hole toward the wheel hub) with a saw's all or hacksaw (body saw is perfect for this if you have one) and then try to split them with a cold chisel or turn them out with a big flat blade screwdriver. Way better than trying to torch them out. Most small tractor wheels aren't exactly "robust" so it's easy to damage them with excess heat or force. Then again, maybe this is the 15th time you've done this and I should be taking notes?
CM, on the stuff I've seen like that, yes, they're serviceable, but they like to gall up. Most don't even have zerk fittings so its just bronze on steel.
Morning Max
Morning CM those omelets both sound good.
Man they really are. CKW cuts up some garden fresh onion for them as well. Man they are good.
Yeah I am seeing this. Like you said.....cut a slot in the inner diameter and that should relieve the interference fit.
Lucky for me, my tractors use BALL bearings (instead of tapered wheel bearings) so about every 2 years they just disassemble themselves. It's like magic!
[video=youtube_share;Zu7YpU0EHGY]https://youtu.be/Zu7YpU0EHGY[/video]
Success!! No torch or cutting needed. Just needed a bigger hammer (small sledge hammer instead of a rubber mallet), and a chisel instead of a big screwdriver. New ones installed and wheel is back on the tractor. Now I just need to get the stripped pivot bolt out of the steering sector so I can replace it and I'll be back in business. I'll have to see if I can get my sawzall blade in the little gap between the bolt head/flange and the plate. If not, I'll have to get my lawnmower guy to use his angle grinder and cutoff wheel.
Now that is some funny right there.