The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • femurphy77

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    I had a 1986 Cougar XR 7 with turbo 4 and 5 speed. Great car back in 1986.

    That t bird would be cool with a full tilt turbo 4 or a Coyote swap even nice big windsor or cleveland.

    To each there own I remember the Van craze in the 70’s people we’re putting 6-71 blowers on vans.

    I think CM had one!
    Nah, his had a 500 horse nitrous plate sitting under the carbs. :bacondance:
     

    Jaybird1980

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    I've been thinking about a new 2.3 Ecoboost w/ a 6 speed swap into an early Ranger. Probably the first year they ditched the twin I-beam front suspension, and maybe an extended cab so I'd have some room.
    As an owner of a 2.3 duratec ( the non turbo version of the Ecoboost). I would pass on this swap. Find a 98- early 2000 with the Lima 2.3 and then you have a good engine.
     

    femurphy77

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    As an owner of a 2.3 duratec ( the non turbo version of the Ecoboost). I would pass on this swap. Find a 98- early 2000 with the Lima 2.3 and then you have a good engine.

    I've never driven a hot rodded 2.3 but I did have an opportunity to take a lap or 2 around Hallett in a Euro Capri with a 2 liter Kent motor in it and that little bastard would fly! I had a warmed over 289 at the time in a 66 Mustang and that liter 4 banger would come REAL close to passing my car on a regular basis.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    I've never driven a hot rodded 2.3 but I did have an opportunity to take a lap or 2 around Hallett in a Euro Capri with a 2 liter Kent motor in it and that little bastard would fly! I had a warmed over 289 at the time in a 66 Mustang and that liter 4 banger would come REAL close to passing my car on a regular basis.
    That is the Lima engine, and yes they can be hot rodded. They came in 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5.

    Unless it was an actual 1.6 Kent worked over to 2.0?
     

    Jaybird1980

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    It was the original engine in a 72 ' Euro Capri so not sure which way they leaned back then but the owner stated Kent.
    I think the Kent only went up to 1.6 stock, they were sohc. The 2.0 was the Pinto motor I think and we're dohc. I think the Escorts shared the same engines. Some people think those little cars are weird, but I really like them. My dad had an old Capri, he sold it and got a piece of crap VW Rabbit.
     
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    thunderchicken

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    Ok my first thought was well at least they admit they got in way over their heads. And they clearly lacked any understanding of what is available in the market.
    Whoever questioned why the charger interior in the T-bird, I agree that is just goofy.
    I've never been a fan of cross breeding cars. There are more than enough solid options that would have been a much easier and cost effective build.
    No surprise here that I'm a T-bird fan. But did anyone else notice they paid 5500 for the T-bird just to gut it?
    I know it's no shock to anyone here, but we could build a helluva fast T-bird for less than $75k. Good luck to them.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Ok my first thought was well at least they admit they got in way over their heads. And they clearly lacked any understanding of what is available in the market.
    Whoever questioned why the charger interior in the T-bird, I agree that is just goofy.
    I've never been a fan of cross breeding cars. There are more than enough solid options that would have been a much easier and cost effective build.
    No surprise here that I'm a T-bird fan. But did anyone else notice they paid 5500 for the T-bird just to gut it?
    I know it's no shock to anyone here, but we could build a helluva fast T-bird for less than $75k. Good luck to them.
    I love that they thought the "fastest thing we could build realistically" was a scat pack stuffed into a tbird... I know for a fact they could build something wayyyyyy faster for far less money.

    Raced again today. Third place again against the same guys. Made improvements to the car and myself each run. Another good day.

    Got home, pulled the car out of the trailer to make it easier to back up the driveway. And now the starter is dead on the truck. Fantastic.
    I can hear it clicking at the solenoid. Batteries are both at 12.5 and trying to jump it with the Stang did nothing. Smacked the starter a few times with my hammer and still nothing.

    Any other suggestions before I see if I can get it warrantied by Napa tomorrow?
     

    thunderchicken

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    I love that they thought the "fastest thing we could build realistically" was a scat pack stuffed into a tbird... I know for a fact they could build something wayyyyyy faster for far less money.

    Raced again today. Third place again against the same guys. Made improvements to the car and myself each run. Another good day.

    Got home, pulled the car out of the trailer to make it easier to back up the driveway. And now the starter is dead on the truck. Fantastic.
    I can hear it clicking at the solenoid. Batteries are both at 12.5 and trying to jump it with the Stang did nothing. Smacked the starter a few times with my hammer and still nothing.

    Any other suggestions before I see if I can get it warrantied by Napa tomorrow?
    Sucks the starter quit on you. But at least it got you home before if gave up the ghost.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Sucks the starter quit on you. But at least it got you home before if gave up the ghost.
    Yeah I was like, "this is super friggin annoying" and then at the same time, "at least I'm in front of my house and not at someone else's house." Does suck that I have to leave the truck and trailer out front and I can't get them up the driveway.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Possibly the biggest downside to an automatic: no push start.
    Also, just went out to grab something and see if it would fire up: it did. After I bumped the key about 15 times real quick. Is the starter dying or is there something else amuck here?

    I actually don’t mind bug’s when they’re done well

    I wasn't expecting that. Well done, indeed.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Possibly the biggest downside to an automatic: no push start.
    Also, just went out to grab something and see if it would fire up: it did. After I bumped the key about 15 times real quick. Is the starter dying or is there something else amuck here?
    Could be bad starter, bad connection, bad solenoid.

    I always check battery connections first, check ground, then wiring connectors on the solenoid, Check voltage at solenoid, then if all that appears good I pull it.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Could be bad starter, bad connection, bad solenoid.

    I always check battery connections first, check ground, then wiring connectors on the solenoid, Check voltage at solenoid, then if all that appears good I pull it.
    What's the best way to test the wires? Continuity test?
    It works fine 99% of the time. This just started a few months ago. It hardly ever happens. The last few times it's done it, I've been able to rapidly key the ignition and it will finally just go. That's what I did last night, but it just took wayyy more tries than normal.
    What I'm saying is, I really can't tell if it's a wiring or starter issue.
     

    femurphy77

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    I love that they thought the "fastest thing we could build realistically" was a scat pack stuffed into a tbird... I know for a fact they could build something wayyyyyy faster for far less money.

    Raced again today. Third place again against the same guys. Made improvements to the car and myself each run. Another good day.

    Got home, pulled the car out of the trailer to make it easier to back up the driveway. And now the starter is dead on the truck. Fantastic.
    I can hear it clicking at the solenoid. Batteries are both at 12.5 and trying to jump it with the Stang did nothing. Smacked the starter a few times with my hammer and still nothing.

    Any other suggestions before I see if I can get it warrantied by Napa tomorrow?

    In response to your starting dilemma are BOTH of your batteries good? On my stock super duty that thing WOULD NOT start on a single battery. It needed the amperage of both batteries to turn that thing over AND fast enough to start. If you didn't unhook one of your batteries when checking voltage you can only say for sure that one of the batteries has 12+ volts since they're paralleled. And again at least on mine once the remaining battery weakened jumper cables were useless as you were dealing with one weak battery and a set of highly questionable jumper cables limiting amps.

    Disconnect your batteries and check voltage individually and let us know.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    What's the best way to test the wires? Continuity test?
    It works fine 99% of the time. This just started a few months ago. It hardly ever happens. The last few times it's done it, I've been able to rapidly key the ignition and it will finally just go. That's what I did last night, but it just took wayyy more tries than normal.
    What I'm saying is, I really can't tell if it's a wiring or starter issue.
    I just check voltage at the starter, check resistance of the ground, and check if there is signal on the switch wire. but yes a continuity test will work, but can be a pain with the switch wire. I also check resistance of the starter windings but usually after I have it out.

    Edit: here is a quick guide.

     

    jeffsqartan

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    In response to your starting dilemma are BOTH of your batteries good? On my stock super duty that thing WOULD NOT start on a single battery. It needed the amperage of both batteries to turn that thing over AND fast enough to start. If you didn't unhook one of your batteries when checking voltage you can only say for sure that one of the batteries has 12+ volts since they're paralleled. And again at least on mine once the remaining battery weakened jumper cables were useless as you were dealing with one weak battery and a set of highly questionable jumper cables limiting amps.

    Disconnect your batteries and check voltage individually and let us know.
    I'm making an assumption that the batteries are good. I bought them brand new over the winter. I had Optima Yellow Tops before and I know that I could easily start this truck off of one battery. I haven't tried that with these batteries yet, so a bad battery isn't entirely out of the question. I can disconnect them and test them individually, though.
    Also, I'm gonna continue to make the assumption that they didn't get drained yesterday, simply because the battery light never came on. Anytime the alternator is not running or not providing power, I have a warning light on the dash. Nifty feature. No voltmeter, though :rolleyes:

    The jumper cables I haven't aren't little wimpy cables - they're some beefy dudes. Again, doesn't mean all is perfect in the world, but it made no difference.

    When I have to spam the ignition to get it to finally do something, it's just a single click at the solenoid every time I hit the key, until the truck finally turns over. Almost like there's a dead spot on the starter and I'm finally getting enough voltage/amperage across the dead spot so that it turns enough to work fine?
     

    jeffsqartan

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    I just check voltage at the starter, check resistance of the ground, and check if there is signal on the switch wire. but yes a continuity test will work, but can be a pain with the switch wire. I also check resistance of the starter windings but usually after I have it out.

    Edit: here is a quick guide.

    I'll check this out later tonight.
     
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