geronimojoe85
Master
- Nov 16, 2009
- 3,716
- 48
The Browning hi-power:
To say that I've got no love for the BHP is not quite accurate, but it's not far off either. The chief reason that I have for avoiding this design is the fact that (if you hadn't noticed from previous threads) I have big fat stupid hands. This design turns the web of my hand into freaking hamburger, handburger if you will. But there are other reasons I dislike the BHP. The safety is not only small, but I dislike how vague it is. Is it off? Is it on? I don't know there's no click to tell me, audible or tactile JMB gives us squat. Magazine disconnect, need I say more? Not only does no mag render your gun a paperweight, the disconnect adds some serious weight to the trigger pull. Magazines don't drop free so one handed operation is that much harder. If you ask me JMB should have just left this design on the drawing board.
Ok, now that my blood pressure has dropped back to normal let me say that all of my above complaints are fixable. With all of my complaints swept to the side you get to the meat and potatoes of what the BHP really is. It is a reliable design that set the groundwork for the "wonder-nines" with its link less locked breach operation and double stack magazine. It is more accurate than I sure am, and carries remarkably well. So JMB has my respect, but I still hate that I have to make the gun work for me.
At any rate these guns are interesting and are becoming increasingly less common in the market. And less and less people know how to work these guns sufficiently. So let's start with the field strip and work through the detail strip.
First lock the slide to the rear and remove the magazine:
Push the safety up into the takedown notch:
While pushing up on the slide release push it through from the other side:
Remove the slide release from the frame:
While holding the slide swipe the safety down and remove the slide from the frame:
Remove the recoil spring and guide:
Remove the barrel:
With a punch drive out the pin that retains the transfer bar:
Draw out the pin and remove the transfer bar:
With a punch, compress the firing pin and slide off the retaining plate much like a 1911:
Remove the firing pin and spring:
Using a punch, drive out the extractor retaining pin:
Place your finger over the extractor as you draw out the punch lest your extractor and spring become cat toys:
To say that I've got no love for the BHP is not quite accurate, but it's not far off either. The chief reason that I have for avoiding this design is the fact that (if you hadn't noticed from previous threads) I have big fat stupid hands. This design turns the web of my hand into freaking hamburger, handburger if you will. But there are other reasons I dislike the BHP. The safety is not only small, but I dislike how vague it is. Is it off? Is it on? I don't know there's no click to tell me, audible or tactile JMB gives us squat. Magazine disconnect, need I say more? Not only does no mag render your gun a paperweight, the disconnect adds some serious weight to the trigger pull. Magazines don't drop free so one handed operation is that much harder. If you ask me JMB should have just left this design on the drawing board.
Ok, now that my blood pressure has dropped back to normal let me say that all of my above complaints are fixable. With all of my complaints swept to the side you get to the meat and potatoes of what the BHP really is. It is a reliable design that set the groundwork for the "wonder-nines" with its link less locked breach operation and double stack magazine. It is more accurate than I sure am, and carries remarkably well. So JMB has my respect, but I still hate that I have to make the gun work for me.
At any rate these guns are interesting and are becoming increasingly less common in the market. And less and less people know how to work these guns sufficiently. So let's start with the field strip and work through the detail strip.
First lock the slide to the rear and remove the magazine:
Push the safety up into the takedown notch:
While pushing up on the slide release push it through from the other side:
Remove the slide release from the frame:
While holding the slide swipe the safety down and remove the slide from the frame:
Remove the recoil spring and guide:
Remove the barrel:
With a punch drive out the pin that retains the transfer bar:
Draw out the pin and remove the transfer bar:
With a punch, compress the firing pin and slide off the retaining plate much like a 1911:
Remove the firing pin and spring:
Using a punch, drive out the extractor retaining pin:
Place your finger over the extractor as you draw out the punch lest your extractor and spring become cat toys:
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