The $150 Remington 1100

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I think that looks great. You can always pretty it up later to then worry about keeping it that way.

 

[Hookeye]

I've had 3 shiny regular magnums.
Wish I had one now.
That 32" DU magnum at 98% just had me sleepless all night.
Not joking.

I'd settle for a regular Magnum, with 30" Remchoke though.

 

[Hookeye]

Interceptor latch not fully dropping every time. Will swap in known good trigger group from my SP and see if it's a timing issue or a weakened interceptor spring.

 

[1911ly]

Bummer :-( you'll get it figured out. It's great to have extra parts to try!

 

[Hookeye]

Was interceptor spring

 

[ghuns]

Looks great. Leave the pits, call it simulated wrinkle finish, a rare option from the factory, and sell it for $500.

 

[Hookeye]

I haven't used wrinkle paint since I did the Hurst shifter knob on my TA way back

 

[ghuns]

I haven't used wrinkle paint since I did the Hurst shifter knob on my TA way back

Ah, the good old days. When all a young man needed was, his mullet, his TA, and a Hurst shifter.

 

[Hookeye]

No mullet.

IMHO they didn't make TA's after '76

Unlike most of America, I disliked the Bandit TA's.....or that horrendous full plastic of the '79, and whatever that turd was in the Knight Rider TV show.

Will admit the newer concept stuff looks pretty cool.

 

[Hookeye]

Hmmmmmm, maybe I can sell this 1100 (when running right) to somebody with a mullet.

Nahhhhhhhh, I steer clear of those folks

 

[1775usmarine]

Hookeye is it hard to do the modification to get it to fire 2 3/4 shells? I'm assuming you could still shoot 3in shells if wanted.

 

[Hookeye]

I've had several 3" mag 1100's. They mostly ate/eat 2 3/4" shells, and low brass too

Have run 2 3/4" shells just fine (to the death of many doves), but they were the more zippy of low brass loads, like WW Expert, Sporting Clays or Superhandicap AA.

Way back in high school Remington advertised the 1100 magnum as a "do all" gun. There they said to simply purchase an extra 2 3/4" field barrel and it should cover all one's hunting needs.

Magnum barrels have a 3" chamber and one gas port. Non magnum have a 2 3/4" chamber and two gas ports. Skeet barrels, which usually see the lightest target loads have larger ports than field barrels.

The difference between a Magnum 1100 and a standard is the barrel (as mentioned above) and the action sleeve. On magnums it is heavier. Per the pic: Magnum sleeve on the gun, standard below. Remington does not sell magnum action sleeves so if wanting to do a conversion you'l have to find a used one.

You can run a 3" magnum barrel on a non magnum action sleeve gun, but there you are limited to 3" in steel shot, can't run lead 3". On a magnum sleeve gun you can run both 3" steel or lead. The "steel shot" barrels have such labeling on their barrels......but they make no distinction on action sleeves, instead just call it "magnum receivers" and "non magnum receivers".

Alas, there is no diff in receivers.

Indeed, one could buy a used gun, a magnum labelled receiver that somebody swapped in a non magnum action sleeve. and beat the gun up if using 3" lead shells. I haven't found such a beast yet but I'm sure somebody has.

So.....................to wrap it up:

Buy a magnum (make sure it has magnum sleeve) and get an extra 2 3/4" barrel. It should work fine. If it (2 3/4" barrel) doesn't run your lighter loads, then swap in a standard action sleeve (the part available at Midway, Brownells etc). But be sure whoever gets it down the line, or borrows it, is made aware of any action sleeve changes you've made. Just remember to put the mag sleeve on when using the mag bbl.

FWIW I leave my mags with magnum sleeves on (but run mag and standard barrels on them), have only converted a non magnum to magnum....going to the heavier sleeve is of no risk

IIRC some places use to drill magnum barrels for a 2nd gas port, thread the new port hole for a set screw, so folks could make them single or dual (for mag or reg field loads). I bet somebody got a gun/barrel like that and didn't know about the screw, ran it as a mag- since the barrel writing said it is- with set screw removed, set up as a 2 3/4" field with 2 ports. Proly beat that rig up bad.

BTW, for years my trap gun was my 1100 magnum. No probs.
A magnum gun might not cycle target loads if the magtube is not kept dry. A bit too much in oil will gum things up and make it a single shot. Had one stored for a while, cuz got drawn for dove and I grabbed the 30" full choke 3" mag and off we went. Worked for a while then didn't cycle. Removed forend and saw I hadn't cleaned it off from storage. Wiped with T shirt and it ran fine after that. That was MY FAULT.

I've run magnums in cold weather, bunny hunting with 2 3/4" loads and they ran fine. They were not overly oiled though

My 26" steel shot barrel, on my 1100 SP magnum, will NOT run dove loads in steel. So.............I need an Imp Cyl 26" 2 3/4" field barrel for this yrs dove hunts. I'll run it with mag action sleeve, and if that still won't cycle them, swap in a standard.

My 1100 magnum, with 2 barrels, and maybe 2 sleeves, can do it all.

 

[Hookeye]

As far as a 2 3/4" 1100 field or target gun goes, my dad has a trap model I can run, so there's really no need for me to have a standard sleeve for conversion to light loads on the magnum (if needed).

I can't run steel in that 30" fixed full choke bbl (Trap bbl) though, so need a Remchoke 30" field barrel for it.
Have had good luck going from Mod choke to Imp Cyl for steel 6's on doves. So I might go with a fixed Imp Cyl bbl for the trap rig...............however I prefer a 30" barrel for trap and doves.

But man those Remchoke barrels are expensive, heck even fixed choke barre;s have gotten silly on pricing.

I must have fallen asleep under a rock or sumpthin.

BTW, I also have a 3.5" 870 Supermag for steel and geese if I ever go that route.

 

[Hookeye]

Well crap. My epoxy plug of the added port on the "steel shot" magnum barrel popped out after 2 yrs (running 2 3/4" shells).
Looks like it needs something a bit better, reportedly barrel support/rings are soldered on.

Not very expensive to send off to a real shop and get it done right...........but am wondering about silver soldering it myself.
Make a fixture to hold everything as is, then just fill the offending port.

Emailed the shotgun shop........heck, proly cost more in shipping than the repair.

The DU of this thread will proly get a 2 3/4" slug barrel on it tomorrow.

 

[Hookeye]

Hookeye is it hard to do the modification to get it to fire 2 3/4 shells? I'm assuming you could still shoot 3in shells if wanted.

BTW, in looking for soldering places, I came across a "convert 3" magnum 1100 to 2 3/4" at a certain well known outdoor retailer. They said conversion is $80.
With Midway selling new standard action sleeves for $42, my guess is that they are popping them off for $38 and 10 minutes work.

Even then you still need to swap in a 2 3/4" bbl. for maxiumum 2 3/4" shooting benefit (run lighter shells).

Funny, most 2 3/4" barrels will run OK with field loads and the heavier magnum action sleeve. Mine all did. Heck, I run mine with magnum barrels and sleeves and use speedy low brass just fine.

 

[Hookeye]

Update: $75 plus shipping to get my barrel support ring soldered up/replaced.
Not bad really, since that will put me under $150 total for a salvaged steel shot bbl of Remington manufacture (matches old 1100 receiver anti glare area machining).
Might try to use the Brownells 500 degree solder stuff and fill the port first.

 

[1911ly]

I wish you were near South Bend. I'd give you some real silver solder. I don't like the lower melting point solder. It is not very strong by nature.

 

[Hookeye]

I wish you were near South Bend. I'd give you some real silver solder. I don't like the lower melting point solder. It is not very strong by nature.

Thanks.

The epoxy plug (room temp) did not erode through use. It came out in a chunk.

If I went with the 1100 degree stuff I'd need to fixture the ring. Might as well replace the ring then
Think adhesive joint deteriorated due to chemicals, the epoxy plug lasted 2+ yrs.
The 500 degree silver solder might have enough attachment to do the job.

I have a local guy who just got the Brownells stuff I need (I hunt with his brother). Might swing by his place and have a go at a repair.

 

[Hookeye]

South Bend..............might be going up there off and on in the coming yrs, kid might choose St Mary's.

 

[1911ly]

If you are ever up here let me know. We'll get some trigger time in on something if you have time. Or can just grab a meal or something. PM me your addy and I can send you a few feet in a envelope. It will melt less then 1k I have several types of it. You can tinker with it. If you had epoxy hold up for a few years the lower melting point solder should be fine. Radio Shack sells a silver bearing solder that I bet is close to the same stuff Brownell's sells. It does have flux in it. I would use a little more with it. I have done a crap load of soldering. I can't express enough how important it is that the metal be bright and clean, totally degreased. Brass brush and degrease with acetone then let dry, flux the area heat till the area will take the solder. If i am trying to go sparingly on the solder I heat remove flame touch the solder reheat and repeat till it flows. It takes a bit of practice but you can solder without going to far. But if what you are soldering is soldered it can come loose. The difference between 500 and a thousand degrease can be hard to gauge. I have a IR thermometer to measure with.

FWIW If the solder melts at 500 degrees it can't have much silver in it. You can't melt silver with that low a temp. the silver is just floating beads in the lead or tin(or both) It doesn't melt. It just ads some solidness to the mass of solder. You can probably used plane solder for your plug. You can always redo with the silver once it's been tinned with the lead.