Stevens Model 39A Shotgun-Opinions Wanted

[Luckyoldguy]

Hello to all,
I recently took in a Stevens Model 39A, Bolt Action, .410 Shotgun as part of a settlement with someone who owed me some money. (Also got a beautiful 1939 Winchester Model 75 Target with original scope which was what I was really interested in, but...I digress)

From what I have gathered so far, the Stevens was only made from 1938 thru 1945 but is not really worth a lot or particularly sought after.

The metal and action seem to be in pretty decent shape and I think will clean up OK. The stock however is in pretty rough shape. My first instinct is to strip, repair and refinish the stock. Some of the scrapes and gouges are pretty deep. I would try and steam out everything I could before sanding but in this case I don't think that is going to take care of very much. I hate sanding the stock on an old gun because I always want to maintain as much character as possible but in this case I think it will be necessary to bring it back to any kind of decent shape.

Before I do anything I wanted opinions on whether I should repair/refinish the stock or since it is a old gun leave it as it is and just try to clean it up. I know when trying to maintain collector value, any major stock work usually hurts the value more than it helps but in this case I don't think the gun is really sought after and the stock is just plain ugly.

Any and all opinions about refinishing vs leave as-is and about whether it has any collector value, would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

 

[model1994]

Beautiful .410, and being such it has some collector value, but not enough to worry about diminishing through making it worthy of use again. If it's a gun you'll keep and use - I would strip existing finish, steam dents, start sanding with 220 & up to preference (leaving deep defects for character), and finish with Odies oil. If you plan to pass the gun along, I would let the next owner decide what to do.

 

[55fairlane]

Beautiful .410, and being such it has some collector value, but not enough to worry about diminishing through making it worthy of use again. If it's a gun you'll keep and use - I would strip existing finish, steam dents, start sanding with 220 & up to preference (leaving deep defects for character), and finish with Odies oil. If you plan to pass the gun along, I would let the next owner decide what to do.

I agree, nice gun (nicer to have your win 75, I loves me some good 3p target smallbore rifles) but no real collectors value, refinish the stock to your liking

 

[Luckyoldguy]

Sorry for the delay in responding. Medical issues. Thanks for the input. Will go with your thoughts and refinish. Have wanted to try Odie’s and think this will be the project to finally get it. Will post pictures when done.
Thanks again,

 

[snapping turtle]

The stock should finish up well. Just strip and lightly sand then steam and lightly sand.
This might be a case where you increase the value overall because the bolt action shotgun collectors are few and far apart. Where as a squirrel hunter would love it and the clean up and refinish will catch his eye.

they make great little garden guns. I think that was the main purchaser of such items back in the day.

 

[Luckyoldguy]

Thought I’d provide an update.

After stripping, steaming and light sanding, the stock damage was still just ugly.




So, never gone this far with an old stock but went all the way down to 80 grit and did some heavy, heavy sanding and then back through the grits all the way to 800. Only went this high after reading up on Odie’s and finding many recommendations to go this high. Turned out pretty well at this stage.

I believe (and hope) the wood is cherry so decided not to stain and let it darken naturally with time. Went with the original Odie’s and loved it. Really hard to make myself put it on in the tiny amounts instructed to on their website but after applying and working in with ultra fine finishing pad could not be happier with the result. Smooth as silk and shows the grain beautifully (although it doesn’t show up well in the pictures).


The innards weren’t in as good shape as I initially thought. Bubba had been inside and it took finding a couple parts and repairing and making a couple more but got it cycling dummy rounds very nicely and think it will shoot well. (Forgot to take pictures.) At this point the stock is too light for my taste but hopefully will darken nicely. If it doesn’t I guess I’ll be figuring out how to darken Odie’s.

Here it is next to a Winchester I did last winter that was just as light a year ago as this one is now so I’m really hoping this one darkens as nicely.

Overall pretty happy with the result and I really appreciate the input. Never gotten anything but great advice from this forum.

 

[pitbulld45]

Turned out nice, I like blonde wood finish but Im sure it will darken up

 

[yetti462]

I have the same 410. Mine is missing an internal part, are parts east to get for this 410?

 

[Luckyoldguy]

I have the same 410. Mine is missing an internal part, are parts east to get for this 410?

I wouldn't say easy but I was able to find most of them. I think this gun was only made for a few years so not as easy to find parts as more popular ones. Gunpartscorp which used to be Numrich has always been the best source for old guns parts that I have found but this time they didn't have everything I needed. I found another part on ebay and another on at a store I found searching on the internet but I can't remember the name. I was not able to find a couple of parts and I had to repair one of them and make another. I sort of enjoy tracking down old parts so if you want to you could let me know what you need and I'd be happy to see if I can find it and I'll let you know if and where to get it if I do.

Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

Numrich Gun Parts Corporation, America’s leading supplier of current and obsolete gun parts, accessories, and military surplus since 1950.

www.gunpartscorp.com

Hope this helps and good luck.

 

[Chance]

Recent salvage of mine

 

[Luckyoldguy]

Recent salvage of mine View attachment 251996

Absolutely beautiful! Did you refinish it and if yes, what did you use?

 

[Chance]

The stock was sanded and then finished with Birchwood Casey Tru-oil. Natural color with no stain added. Easy to apply. First coats will soak in. 0000 steel wool between these to fill the grain and then apply very thin coats to increase the depth of the finish.

 

[Chance]

Before picture:

 

[Chance]

And you can even make replacements for the Safety inserts

 

[bullcrap]

Absolutely beautiful! Did you refinish it and if yes, what did you use?

And you can even make replacements for the Safety inserts

View attachment 252145

You did good job. A labor of love, not for profit.

 

[model1994]

excellent! thank you for the update. looks great. I understand why you did, but going to 80 would be scary! I rarely even touch 220, usually start 320. I never sand with more than 50% increase. I sand all the way to 2000 on some things, depends if I want satin or gloss finish. Usually to 1000 is fine. But, I use the super duper Odie's oil that is thinner liquid. Easier to apply by hand. Both regular and the dark version. I have even used a few of their creative colors with nice results. I love being able to use it and not need a mask, gloves, etc. And it's even food-safe so my cutting boards and wood utensils look amazing with the dark finish version.

I digress lol, but thanks again for sharing.

 

[Luckyoldguy]

You did good job. A labor of love, not for profit.

Really nice. Can't believe how well it turned out given what you started with and not having to stain it. Have never tried Tru-oil but after looking at yours I'll have to give it a try on the next on. Thanks for the information.

 

[Luckyoldguy]

excellent! thank you for the update. looks great. I understand why you did, but going to 80 would be scary! I rarely even touch 220, usually start 320. I never sand with more than 50% increase. I sand all the way to 2000 on some things, depends if I want satin or gloss finish. Usually to 1000 is fine. But, I use the super duper Odie's oil that is thinner liquid. Easier to apply by hand. Both regular and the dark version. I have even used a few of their creative colors with nice results. I love being able to use it and not need a mask, gloves, etc. And it's even food-safe so my cutting boards and wood utensils look amazing with the dark finish version.

I digress lol, but thanks again for sharing.

Thanks for the comments and info. Had a hard time going to the 80 grit but after working with 220 and then 120 really just couldn't get it to where I needed it to be. Really surprised how deep some of the flaws were. I now really like Odie's and appreciate you recommending it. Will have to give the thinner Odie's and finer grits a try next time. Thanks again for feedback, advice and info.

 

[Gufnstuf]

I had to go to 80 on the stock I’m currently working on as well. Mostly to just get the old finish to come off. Nothing wrong with going that low as long as you don’t gouge it and work your way back up.

I don’t usually go to 1000 grit or anything on wood in a stock. 4-600 max but I’m usually not going for a deep furniture lacquer either. Using tru-oil and 0000 steel wool between and lightly on the last coat to have a bit of shine but not gloss.

I have been putting some stain on the ones I have done but depending on the stock wood it’s not taking the stain much.

Of course I’m doing mostly 50 plus year old arms.

My new browning X-bolt medallion is super glossy and it looks almost like plastic.

Nice work.