Starting a food plot, any advice?

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  • teddy12b

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    I'm looking to start a 1 acre food plot area in the field out back. Currently, there's just field grass that's been mowed over for years. This would be full sun in a sandy loam soil and I don't have any equipment to turn the soil so the seeds will be tossed out by hand. My intent would be to attract and retain deer & turkey along with making some habitat for big critters to lay down and take a nap.

    In the past I've tried to get food plots going by tossing out seed all at one time early in spring, this time I plan to mix everything up and toss it out on 2 or 3 different occasions. I plan to wait for a day when it's going to rain followed by days of more rain in the forecast shortly after to give the seeds the best chance I can at a good start.
    I've never tried to do something like this on this scale. Any advice would be appreciated.
     

    42769vette

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    The first advise I can give is soil test. People underrate the importance of that. Get a test, and add what is needed. For 1 acre, its only going to be 20-30 bucks.

    My second piece of advise is since you dont have a way to till, I would look hard at turnip's, and sugar beats as the first crop. They will break up the soil a bit for you.
     

    teddy12b

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    I had a 25' deep soil test done 10 years ago when we built. The top 2.5' of my soil was described as: "Stiff Quite Moist Brown Mottled, Silty Clay, Traces Of Fine Sand
    & Gravel.

    I wouldn't mind getting one that's more up to date, but not sure where to go for that. I'm sure that soil has changed considerably from being farmed 10 years ago to being mowed ever since.

    I'll add turnips and sugar beats to the list for sure.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    I had a 25' deep soil test done 10 years ago when we built. The top 2.5' of my soil was described as: "Stiff Quite Moist Brown Mottled, Silty Clay, Traces Of Fine Sand
    & Gravel.

    I wouldn't mind getting one that's more up to date, but not sure where to go for that. I'm sure that soil has changed considerably from being farmed 10 years ago to being mowed ever since.

    I'll add turnips and sugar beats to the list for sure.
    I believe he was talking about a soil nutrient and ph test. It will let you know if you need to add nitrogen/potassium/etc and/or adjust the ph.
     

    two70

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    Round Up or similar should be step one before mowing. Second, since you'll be broadcasting onto the ground, you'll need to increase the planting rate when you plant after burn down to account for seed that doesn't make soil contact. Use a broadcast seeder, set it to a low dispense rate and make several passes in a crossing pattern. After planting but before germination, mow the dead grass and leave it as mulch.

    If you want to maintain the attraction of your food plot year round, your going to have to plant 2-3 times per year, depending on seed varieties selected, to ensure you always have something growing that is attractive to wildlife. A blend of seed varieties is best for spreading out the browsing pressure and attraction of your plot. I would stay away from beets, they can be difficult enough to get established with a seeder let alone by broadcast seeding. Also, radishes varieties like diakon and similar are easier to establish via broadcast seeding than turnips are and in my experience are more attractive earlier in the fall. I'd highly recommend checking out Growingdeer.tv for loads of videos on seed blends and how to establish food plots.
     

    Creedmoor

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    Right now he has no understanding of soil tests. It will teach him the basics of soil fertility and testing.
    He will have a much better understanding of going to the Coop for an extensive test and understanding the results.

    Not much is learned by taking samples to the Coop. Gotta walk before you run.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Right now he has no understanding of soil tests. It will teach him the basics of soil fertility and testing.
    He will have a much better understanding of going to the Coop for an extensive test and understanding the results.

    Not much is learned by taking samples to the Coop. Gotta walk before you run.
    That's like telling someone who know nothing about mechanics to rebuild their engine. That way they will understand it better when they have someone who knows what they are doing rebuild it.

    If he doesn't know anything he won't know where he should be in any ranges and it won't tell him the full breakdown.

    Sometimes you need to know your limits.
     

    Creedmoor

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    That's like telling someone who know nothing about mechanics to rebuild their engine. That way they will understand it better when they have someone who knows what they are doing rebuild it.

    If he doesn't know anything he won't know where he should be in any ranges and it won't tell him the full breakdown.

    Sometimes you need to know your limits.

    Thats apples for apples?
    Never realized those test kits dont come with instructions.
    Good Luck OP with your food plot.
    Good day.
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Another vote for A&L Great Lakes. AWESOME service. For $37 including shipping you get the report posted above.
     

    teddy12b

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    Guys,
    Honestly, I could probably learn a lot from both the home kits and taking it in somewhere and having someone to talk with face to face.

    I checked out the Purdue link. A&L Great Lakes is in my home town, so I'll call them and bring in some samples for their testing.
     

    teddy12b

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    Called A&L over lunch and the basic test is just shy of $10. The guy on the phone walked me through how to get them the best sample to test.
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Called A&L over lunch and the basic test is just shy of $10. The guy on the phone walked me through how to get them the best sample to test.
    Basic test just gives you levels. It doesn’t tell you what needs to be done.

    The 20-30 bucks option lays out what to add when and how much.
     
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