Rifle stock refinishing.

[ckyoursix]

I would like an opinion. What would work better between coats of tru-oil. Steel wool or scotch brite pads.

 

[gregkl]

I don't use either. I use sandpaper. But then again, I also don't use Tru-Oil.

 

[1911ly]

I am with. I start with 200 if it looks rough and end with 600 to 800. I haven't used True-Oil. Not familiar with it. I like BLO (boiled linseed oil) I apply let dry, 0000 steel wool between coats. I like it because you can touch it up in a few seconds.

 

[HoughMade]

I have used Tru-Oil and I prefer sandpaper with a soft backer in curves and a hard backer near lines. This keeps the finish level. However, 0000 steel wool after the last coat finishes it off nice.

 

[Hookeye]

I used Tru Oil when I redid a 700 stock long ago. Came out fine, but didn't like using it.
Last dozen stocks/buttstocks/forearms have been with Outers Gunslick finish.

No longer made.

I recently snagged some NOS just in case I come across a worthy project

 

[walt o]

Alot depends on the wood .If it is a pores wood and open grain steel wool tends to pull the dried finish out of the pores . On that type of wood i use sandpaper .On hard maple types of wood (close grain ) I use steel wool (0000)even on the last coat then buff to a desired shine then wax-Done

 

[Psode27]

I like how BLO makes the safe smell... every so often I find an excuse to hit something with a quick coat of oil! I always use steel wool myself, never used anything else.

 

[1911ly]

Oh yeah. BLO and Hoppies. They should make scented air freshner's That would rock!!

 

[sloughfoot]

Steel wool.

 

[1911ly]

Steel wool.

Yeah, What about it??

 

[sloughfoot]

I would like an opinion. What would work better between coats of tru-oil. Steel wool or scotch brite pads.

Steel wool.

Is my answer better now 1911ly? I just want to make you happy, after all. even though you say you have never used tru-oil..

 

[1911ly]

Much!! I have a simple mind :-) ty

 

[nettinyahoo]

Steel wool.

 

[yellowhousejake]

Steel wool. Sandpaper is for making stocks, not refinishing them. Sandpaper chews and twists the wood fibers, good steel wool will cut them and leave a finer finish. Steel wool needs to be de-oiled first, and replaced often as it dulls.

- BLO is not BLO anymore, hasn't been in a long long time. It is mostly hardeners and fake stuff. Real BLO has to be made yourself. Good stuff though.

- Walnut oil with a alkyd resin is a great final finish.

- Tru Oil gets a bad rap but it is actually a fine combination of real tung oil and natural hardeners. Sure it's Birchwood Casey, but it is far better than Fornby's.

A quality finish takes time. I just completed my wife's 10-22 which had beautiful walnut under the plastic coating. It took six weeks. Remember to raise the grain and burnish the wood before the finish starts going on, and add some oil to the wood before the finish coat.

YHJ

 

[ckyoursix]

Thank you everyone for your input. The stock is for an M1 Garand. When the project is finished I will post before and after photos.

 

[gregkl]

Thank you everyone for your input. The stock is for an M1 Garand. When the project is finished I will post before and after photos.

I'd like to see it when finished. I just finished mine. It was definitely a challenge and did not turn out as good as I would have liked. It took me several months to get the oil out of the stock just to prep it for finishing.

Then I used Gun Sav'r to finish it. It was a gloss finish, but I figured I could knock it back down to matte after I finished it. However the Gun Sav'r didn't knock down so well so it is glossier than I wanted. But it will work. At least now it won't soak me with oil seeping out of the wood at the range!

 

[ckyoursix]

I'm afraid it will take some time. The job calls and, right now I am looking for the correct snapring plier for the front hand guard. CP gun show is in two weeks maybe I'll get lucky there. Midway is sold out and brownlee only has the alum. type.

 

[gregkl]

I'm afraid it will take some time. The job calls and, right now I am looking for the correct snapring plier for the front hand guard. CP gun show is in two weeks maybe I'll get lucky there. Midway is sold out and brownlee only has the alum. type.

I won't tell you to try this because I don't want to tell someone how to do anything wrong, but I have had mine off twice and back on and my brother's off and back on once using a regular pair of snap ring pliers. They worked fine.

If you can find one, I would buy the tool.

 

[ckyoursix]

I have tried a few snap ring pliers. I managed to take the piece off the barrel, but not the wood hand guard. The pliers I have, and have borrowed will not spread properly. Will wait for the proper pair.

 

[yellowhousejake]

Unless it is a new piece of wood or you are repairing damage, an M1 doesn't require much more than a few refresher coats of the right oil. You can substitute artist's refined linseed oil since real BLO is not available anymore.

Check this site out. M1 Garand - The greatest single battle implement ever devised. The M1 Garand. Click the 'wood refinishing' link in the menu.

It makes me sad to see a M! all glossied up like a Weatherby.

YHJ