questions for you chainsaw gurus

[hornadylnl]

I just had some people come and cut down a huge maple tree that was right next to my house. These guys were amazing. They had a guy climb the tree and they used ropes to get the limbs down without hitting the house. They new exactly where to suspend everything to keep them from hitting the house.

I had them get everything down and haul off anything less than 4" in diameter so I wouldn't have to mess with all the brush. The widest part of the trunk was 37" in diameter. I have a Stihl MS200T and a Stihl MS361 that I used to cut it up with. I was worried the 361 wouldn't have enough power to pull the 24" bar through but it did great once I put a new 33RSC chain on it. The other chain was a low kickback design.

Here's my questions. What chain type do you recommend for the 14" 200T and a 16" MS210? I don't want something so low kickback that it won't cut. Also, I've heard people recommend these. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Do any of you guys have one and do they do a good job or should I just take them somewhere and have them done. Thanks

 

[redneckmedic]

You will get about 20 good sharpens out of that at most. Well worth it though

 

[Tin Cup]

I have gotten the standard Stihl chains for my saw. I think they are a RSC3? I believe they are a "green" chain, but seem to cut really well. If you get a "yellow" or more aggressive style they tend to wear down and require sharpening more often.

 

[hornadylnl]

You will get about 20 good sharpens out of that at most. Well worth it though

Does the whole machine wear out or just the grinding wheel? Do they sell extra wheels? I think a local guy used to charge $4 a chain so it wouldn't take long to pay for itself.

 

[6birds]

I use a smaller frame Stihl for brushing, trimming, the smaller stuff, and use a much less aggressive chain (angle) for that saw.

I have two large Husqvarna's, one for felling and cross cuts (Firewood), and use a very aggressive angle here, really pulls throught the large wet logs, but tend to run very hot on the dead limbs/logs. I change blades about every two tanks of fuel, than then sharpen when cool. I have 4 chains for that saw, 1 on, 3 sharp and waiting.

The other Husqvarna has a Biggg bar for boards and stumps (think gun stock material) and use a very soft angle here too, so the bar tracks straight, less kick when hitting the rock/dirt in the stump roots when they are blank cut for stocks.

I use a hand file with a guide. The electric ones heat the links quickly, and kills the temper of the steel.

 

[redneckmedic]

Does the whole machine wear out or just the grinding wheel? Do they sell extra wheels? I think a local guy used to charge $4 a chain so it wouldn't take long to pay for itself.

Here is the tool division... Never buy from HF is you are using an item for commercial or self business. But occasional use is fine. I buy all my power tools from the orange or blue or red buildings and my odd ball stuff from the green building and HF.

I have never been a fan of Chicago tools either. Just IMO, so yes the disk wears out, but the Chicago line of tools are crap too.

With that said, if you don't use a chainsaw for your income and occasional sharpening is your game...play ball!

 

[42769vette]

i have a stihl 200t with a 14 inch bar and a sthil 460 with a 25 inch bar. both have stihl green lable (high kick back) with the rakers filed down to just below the line on the raker. both saws are not for the new guy running a saw espically the 460 but its great with experienced users.

i only use oregon hand files. machine files harden the tooth due to higher heat and never get as sharp as i can get it with a hand file.

 

[chasekerion4]

There's a reason they're called low kick back..

Don't stick your face next to the chain and you should be fine.

Any of the RSC's are good..

And check Ebay - there's always dealers who sell the chains on there... for a ton less than retail.

I pay $19-23 for my Stihl chains...

Sharpening? Personally, I don't bother.. I take them in 10-15 at a time and pay to get it done, which costs me less cuz I'm bringing in several.

After they've been sharpened once and re-used, they go in the trash.

But I grind the hell out of my chains... If the saw is powerful enough, you can through trees with spoons attached to the chains instead of "teeth"

Just my

 

[2ridgebacks]

Chasekerion4, maybe we can work something out on your "throwaways". If you are going to own a chainsaw you really need to learn how to hand file. The chains will last many times longer and you can kind of tune the chain to the wood you are cutting. As well, sometimes it is a show stopper to have a chain that won't cut. Hand filing will save you time, money, and wear and tear. I can sharpen my chain on a 20" saw almost as quick as I can change it.

 

[hornadylnl]

Chasekerion4, maybe we can work something out on your "throwaways". If you are going to own a chainsaw you really need to learn how to hand file. The chains will last many times longer and you can kind of tune the chain to the wood you are cutting. As well, sometimes it is a show stopper to have a chain that won't cut. Hand filing will save you time, money, and wear and tear. I can sharpen my chain on a 20" saw almost as quick as I can change it.

Do you use a file guide? If so, what kind? I've used hand files without a guide. I know it helps but I'm sure I could do a better job if I used a guide.

 

[chasekerion4]

Chasekerion4, maybe we can work something out on your "throwaways". If you are going to own a chainsaw you really need to learn how to hand file. The chains will last many times longer and you can kind of tune the chain to the wood you are cutting. As well, sometimes it is a show stopper to have a chain that won't cut. Hand filing will save you time, money, and wear and tear. I can sharpen my chain on a 20" saw almost as quick as I can change it.

We can definitely work something out on the throwaways. I'll hand file in the field if need be, but that's it.

And with all due respect, everyone has different needs. I don't need my chains "tuned." I need them sharp. I own 16 chainsaws and I need sharp, new chains that will last as long as possible. I don't have time to mess with sharpeners and hand files to save a few bucks, only to have the chains go dull faster than they did in the first place, ultimately costing me more time.

Using chainsaws is like driving. Everyone has their own style. Personally, the chains on my saws stay on long past the point of being dull, which again, is okay if the saw is powerful enough. The average Joe takes them off and sharpens them, re-installs it and gets back to it. I grind my chains down beyond the point of where hand filing is going to do the job.

I don't want to argue about it - I wanted to give Hornady advice on what type of chain to use and where he might be able to get them while saving some money.

 

[2ridgebacks]

We can definitely work something out on the throwaways. I'll hand file in the field if need be, but that's it.

And with all due respect, everyone has different needs. I don't need my chains "tuned." I need them sharp. I own 16 chainsaws and I need sharp, new chains that will last as long as possible. I don't have time to mess with sharpeners and hand files to save a few bucks, only to have the chains go dull faster than they did in the first place, ultimately costing me more time.

Using chainsaws is like driving. Everyone has their own style. Personally, the chains on my saws stay on long past the point of being dull, which again, is okay if the saw is powerful enough. The average Joe takes them off and sharpens them, re-installs it and gets back to it. I grind my chains down beyond the point of where hand filing is going to do the job.

I don't want to argue about it - I wanted to give Hornady advice on what type of chain to use and where he might be able to get them while saving some money.

Sorry about that. It was late. I should have been more clear. The first sentence was all that was directed at you. The rest, for the general woodcutter and even homeowner. I will change the way my chain cuts for soft wood vs dried out dead wood for example. Occasionaly I will use a file guide, but in the interest of compromising time and utility, I usuallly file unaided.

 

[Hammer]

IMO

use a low kickback chain for the MS200 as it is a smaller saw with plenty of power. You are more likely to get a kickback due to the smaller size of the bar and the conditions you are cutting in.

On the 361, I would use a non kickback chain due to the power it has and the conditions you are cutting in.

I sharpen my own chains in the field by hand. I found that the grinders are mis used and end up putting heat into the tooth and loosing the temper out of the chain and causing them to dull quicker.

This is a great tool that can be used out in the field. It sharpens the tooth and cuts the drags at the same time.
PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories
Bailey's - Pferd ChainSharp Filing Guide

 

[hornadylnl]

We can definitely work something out on the throwaways. I'll hand file in the field if need be, but that's it.

And with all due respect, everyone has different needs. I don't need my chains "tuned." I need them sharp. I own 16 chainsaws and I need sharp, new chains that will last as long as possible. I don't have time to mess with sharpeners and hand files to save a few bucks, only to have the chains go dull faster than they did in the first place, ultimately costing me more time.

Using chainsaws is like driving. Everyone has their own style. Personally, the chains on my saws stay on long past the point of being dull, which again, is okay if the saw is powerful enough. The average Joe takes them off and sharpens them, re-installs it and gets back to it. I grind my chains down beyond the point of where hand filing is going to do the job.

I don't want to argue about it - I wanted to give Hornady advice on what type of chain to use and where he might be able to get them while saving some money.

I take it you run a tree service? Do you run all Stihl saws? Do you only Stihl chains? I looked at the Oregon chains at Menards and they don't look like they are near the quality of Stihl chains.

I'm eventually going to build a house in a 12 acre woods so I need to keep some nice saws. I can't decide whether I want to get another saw in the 80cc+ range or not. My uncle had an 056 and that thing was a monster. I'd like to find one of those in really nice shape or a 660 or larger.

 

[42769vette]

Do you use a file guide? If so, what kind? I've used hand files without a guide. I know it helps but I'm sure I could do a better job if I used a guide.

i tried a file guide once and threw it in the woods. they are worthless imo

the keys to hand filing are

use a newer file (oregon are the best imo)

dont get real rough with the teeth (be gentle)

keep your filing hand up (if you lower your hand you will dull the point of the tooth)

keep close to the line on top of the tooth. i take just a little more drastic angle than recomended. i think the lines are at 33 degrees.

and cut those rakers if you are up for a little extra kick and a lot faster chain.


nothing makes me madder than a chain that wont cut. when im cutting im usually in a hurry and want a chain that is to. i run a small part time tree outfit. but usually when there is work (after a storm) there is alot of it and i dont want to mess with a slow chain and im the only one who cuts for us so i can take off as much raker as i need and not worry about a newbie cutting off his leg.

also on a side note. i would defintally invest in some chaps. ive never needed mine but saw a man who was glad he was wearing them and it scared me to death. plus the pockets come in handy for chains and wreches and wedges

 

[42769vette]

I take it you run a tree service? Do you run all Stihl saws? Do you only Stihl chains? I looked at the Oregon chains at Menards and they don't look like they are near the quality of Stihl chains.

I'm eventually going to build a house in a 12 acre woods so I need to keep some nice saws. I can't decide whether I want to get another saw in the 80cc+ range or not. My uncle had an 056 and that thing was a monster. I'd like to find one of those in really nice shape or a 660 or larger.

i usto cut for a right a way service and ran a 880. that thing was a beast. i loved it once i got usto the wieght of it. man were my arms sore for a few weeks. the nice thing was every once and a while id have a 460 and it felt like a butter knife in my hand. id cut one handed above my head after getting usto a 880

 

[chasekerion4]

I take it you run a tree service? Do you run all Stihl saws? Do you only Stihl chains? I looked at the Oregon chains at Menards and they don't look like they are near the quality of Stihl chains.

I'm eventually going to build a house in a 12 acre woods so I need to keep some nice saws. I can't decide whether I want to get another saw in the 80cc+ range or not. My uncle had an 056 and that thing was a monster. I'd like to find one of those in really nice shape or a 660 or larger.

I own 2 landscaping companies; one here and one in Florida. We do a LOT of trees, and the biggest advice I can give is this:

Get the most power/weight ratio you can afford.

yes, I only use Stihl saws, as they're the only ones that will continue to start after a year of hard service.

It ain't cheap, but if you plan to cut down several trees, get the ones designed for logging and not just "farm use" or "homeowner". They weigh a ton for the power output.

As 42769vette said, heavy=pain later... it's just that simple. But you probably already know that.

As for the chains, the Oregons can't hold a candle to the OEM Stihl's, but they also don't cost as much retail (until you get to 20" and above).

Usually I'd say buy generics, but not for Stihl saws... get their chains. And IMO, low kick-back is about as good as cutting with a really nice SPOON.

 

[42769vette]

ive only ever owned sthil saws, buy a friend of mine has a huskey and to be honest it was a pretty good saw. not as good as sthil but at half the price. i think his is a 461 rancher (dont quote me on that) but its not bad.