I'm looking for anyone who can explain what the mechanics are behind the infamous chewed up cases the Sig 556 spits out. I'm looking to acquire this rifle and am also getting into reloading, so I'd like to see if any other reloaders have dealt with this. I've also noticed that the casing ejection process really scratches up the port side of the receiver, any ways of preventing this as well? Thanks in advance for your time.
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Preventing case denting in a Sig556
- Thread starter Frontier
- Start date
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HardTargetFirearms
Plinker
I have an early model Sig 556. And it's a fantastic rifle. One of my favorites. Utterly reliable. But that can't be said of all the Sig 556' obviously as they have had some issues. I assume your rifle throws brass as aggressively as mine...and when I say aggressively, I mean it throws brass unlike any rifle I have ever shot. So the sheer violence with which it gets that brass out is why the brass gets messed up. Where that happens in the process I am not sure. I don't know how you could prevent it...and honestly, reloading aside, I don't want to. Any adjustment there could and would likely impact reliability. And given my rifle has over 3000 rounds through it without a single malfunction...I don't want to change that.
Also, on the finish getting taken off on the back side of the ejectio port...that is very common. Most of the guys who don't like have actually used adhesive backed velco on that spot. My rifle is Duracoated and that paint did not last long on that spot. But it just gives it character.
CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
I'll explain the mechanics of it. I'll compare to an AR15 because that is the most common rifle with a spring/plunger ejector.
The ejector on an AR15 is a small plunger built into the bolt, operated by a spring behind the plunger. This means the plunger pushes on one side of the brass while the ejector pulls on the other. This "pushing" actually starts as soon as the bolt closes, but the brass cannot go anywhere because it's in the chamber. As the bolt begins to move back, the brass is pushed sideways, once the case-neck clears the chamber and the ejection port, the brass is free to be pushed sideways out of the gun, and that is what happens. The brass is gently pushed sideways out of the gun by the plunger. This action is almost identical every single time it happens and that is why you end up with a neat brass pile right beside you gun.
On a Sig, the ejector is a solid piece of metal in a fixed position near the rear of the bolt travel. There is a small "slot" in the bolt that allows this piece of metal to slide through the bolt and contact the case-head when the bolt retracts back far enough. Your bolt has considerable velocity and momentum behind it when it gets back to this point, and the ejector "slams" into the back of the case and violently throws it from the weapon. The position of the ejector relative to the extractor naturally induces a spin on the case. This happens with all guns, but because the Sig has a violent ejection, and there is no case deflector (such as with an AR) the case mouth spins around and contacts the side of the receiver after it has exited the ejection port.
Ever wonder why your Sig throws your brass 20 feet to your right and sometimes in seemingly random places? It's because of this violent, positive mechanical ejector that forces the case to come out of the gun so much faster. It's just the nature of the Sig. To help save your gun and brass, do as the above poster suggested and put some adhesive velcro on the side of the receiver. When I got my 556 in 2007, that is the first thing I did. I've had a few people ask me why I have velcro on my receiver and I just explain to them and move on. The dented case-mouths are not detrimental to being able to reload the brass; I haven't had any problems so far.
The ejector on an AR15 is a small plunger built into the bolt, operated by a spring behind the plunger. This means the plunger pushes on one side of the brass while the ejector pulls on the other. This "pushing" actually starts as soon as the bolt closes, but the brass cannot go anywhere because it's in the chamber. As the bolt begins to move back, the brass is pushed sideways, once the case-neck clears the chamber and the ejection port, the brass is free to be pushed sideways out of the gun, and that is what happens. The brass is gently pushed sideways out of the gun by the plunger. This action is almost identical every single time it happens and that is why you end up with a neat brass pile right beside you gun.
On a Sig, the ejector is a solid piece of metal in a fixed position near the rear of the bolt travel. There is a small "slot" in the bolt that allows this piece of metal to slide through the bolt and contact the case-head when the bolt retracts back far enough. Your bolt has considerable velocity and momentum behind it when it gets back to this point, and the ejector "slams" into the back of the case and violently throws it from the weapon. The position of the ejector relative to the extractor naturally induces a spin on the case. This happens with all guns, but because the Sig has a violent ejection, and there is no case deflector (such as with an AR) the case mouth spins around and contacts the side of the receiver after it has exited the ejection port.
Ever wonder why your Sig throws your brass 20 feet to your right and sometimes in seemingly random places? It's because of this violent, positive mechanical ejector that forces the case to come out of the gun so much faster. It's just the nature of the Sig. To help save your gun and brass, do as the above poster suggested and put some adhesive velcro on the side of the receiver. When I got my 556 in 2007, that is the first thing I did. I've had a few people ask me why I have velcro on my receiver and I just explain to them and move on. The dented case-mouths are not detrimental to being able to reload the brass; I haven't had any problems so far.
When I called Sig to ask about this same situation, their response was pretty simple. The brass is meant to be thrown forward at about the 2 o'clock position to prevent spraying hot brass on your buddies standing beside you in a fight. Their response was also that it wasn't built with reloading in mind as the folks who are truly using them are not stopping to pick up brass. Okay, I get that. I have used the velcro patch and it helps keep the reciever from getting scratched but really doesn't prevent the brass from getting creased. I have not tried reloading them but a very reliable source has told me that it is gtg and not to worry about it. I have switched to steel ammo in this rifle with no ill results so far so I don't worry about the brass.
BTW, I found some industrial strength velcro at I believe Home Depot that stays put pretty well.
BTW, I found some industrial strength velcro at I believe Home Depot that stays put pretty well.
Please do elaborate. I don't want my insides scraches.
CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
Mine actually throws it in 2 different places. I get about 50% of my brass about 20 feet out to the 1-2:00, and 40% about 35 feet 3:00-3:30, the other 10% is scattered outside of those areas as if it ejected "funny" and didn't follow the pattern laid forth by the other pieces.
I have reloaded a lot of 556 brass and haven't had any problems so far. Small creases, dents, dings etc all come out in the resizing or firing process, it's only a cosmetic thing.
WTH are you even trying to say? Can you speak English in your future posts please.
