I am having a hard time sharpening my knives

[rocky]

Anybody have any tips on knife sharpening.

 

[Scutter01]

What are you currently using to sharpen?

 

[ATF Consumer]

Here is a good start...

Knife Sharpening Tricks

 

[Cain71]

If you are close I could show you how to use a wet stone.

 

[cubby]

how are you holding your tongue?

 

[Big John]

Anybody have any tips on knife sharpening.

Just 22 to go!!

You know if you started a thread like this and actually responded when people asked questions or offered advice maybe it would look like you were really trying to be part of the community.

As for the knife sharpening I cheat I don't have any "GOOD" knives just my EDC and some BOB knives I have used the sharpener on the back of my electric can opener and it works well, cheap knives (S&W) don't hold an edge long.

 

[ATF Consumer]

I usually sharpen my pocket knife every couple of days, as I use it daily...Don't know how I ever managed before I started carrying it. I have 2 small stones, one medium and one fine that are only a couple of inches long. I know the edge is sharp when I can slice off a fine layer of skin on my thumb.

 

[kevinj110]

I always just use the Arkansas stone we have at work. Or the diamond ones on my utility knives.

 

[Sweet James]

I use a Shrade Old Timer Hone steel. The secret is to sharpen and clean each time you use it.

 

[HICKMAN]

and back contributing to the actual thread:

KnivesShipFree.com - Convex Sharpening Videos - Convex Sharpening Videos

 

[esrice]

Off-topic posts have been relocated here: https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/forum_support_suggestions/63103-never_make_it_to_50_a.html

 

[rhino]

Some of the basics I've learned in my 31+ years of sharpening by hand:

• The most important thing is to be able to maintain a consistent angle when removing metal. Some can do this by hand (with practice), and some benefit from using jigs and other tools that assist in maintaining the angle
• Use tools appropriate for the job. A really dull edge on a blade made from superhard tool steel or exotic stainless is going to be a tough job to accomplish with an Arkansas stone unless you are very, very patient and have a few weeks to slowly wear away material. What kind of abrasives you use will be dictated by how much metal you need to remove, how quickly you want to do, and how difficult it is to accomplish this task on the blade in question. In general, diamond abrasives will handle just about any metal because they are the hardest substance. Natural stones are better for high carbon steels and for honing/polishing/finishing a sharpening job.
• Start with a knife that can be made sharp; some cheap blades are a losing proposition and will never get as sharp as you want them.
• Understand the geometry of your blade and its edge and how you will be using it. A thick blade with a thick edge is never going to be too useful in the kitchen; a thin, delicate edge probably isn't the best for batoning through hardwood.
• If you want your knife to be sharper than it is, you may need to reprofile the edge. By that I mean you may need to grind away metal to change the primary angle of the edge. The thinner the edge, the better it will slice (in general).
• Understand that highly polished edges work great for push cutting like shaving, wood carving, etc. "Toothier," grabby edges work better for slicing. Both types of cutting are enhanced by appropriate edge geometry (i.e. as thin as possible and still retain adequate strength).
• Understand that some sharpening tools produce a polished edge inherently (Arkansas/Wa****a stones, Japanese water stones, stropping, ultra-fine ceramics), while others leave a rougher surfaced (diamonds, Norton/India stones, etc)
• Understand the idea of using a microbevel (on conventional/cantled edges) and how they can remove the wire edge/burr and enhance both sharpness and the longevity of the edge.
• Understand how to maintain a convex edge if your knife is made that way. If you don't have a slack belt grinder, there are alternatives using strops or fine sandpaper on mouse pads, etc. You absolutely want to maintain a convex edge before it gets too dull because at some point, it will need redone on a slack belt grinder.

 

[rocky]

I have the stones and sticks and stuff. The problem could be the blade angle or blade quality. I have some gerbers, cammilus, sog, buck knives it is probably the knife angle.

 

[rhino]

I have the stones and sticks and stuff. The problem could be the blade angle or blade quality. I have some gerbers, cammilus, sog, buck knives it is probably the knife angle.

That's what I'd suspect first.

When you're first starting to sharpen, it's probably best to just continue with the angle that is already set rather than reprofiling the edge. One way to help you maintain the angle (or at least give you some feedback) is to park the edge bevel on both sides with a Sharpie or other marker. Then look at the edge after you've done a few swipes across your stone. If you see the marker being worn away evenly, you're probably good to go. If not, use what you see to adjust the angle.

 

[HICKMAN]

good tip there Rhino

 

[x10]

Razor Edge System - Knife Sharpening Systems

this system is the best one I've ever used but the best quick one is the Chef's choice sharpeners

here's some wisdom I heard a long time ago

"If your ever lost, Sit down and start sharpening your knife, In a few minutes someone will come along and tell you your doing it wrong and in the conversation slip in directions back home"

 

[tyler34]

I said it once I'll say it again for "noobs" I still say the spyderco sharpmaker is the easiest and best for sharpening.

 

[x10]

I said it once I'll say it again for "noobs" I still say the spyderco sharpmaker is the easiest and best for sharpening.

Really for all of us NOOBS then that must be right

check the wisdom of my original post

Anything that counts on the person to hold the angle has many many hours of learing, a guide system that takes the human element out of it should be looked at,

The Razor's Edge book has more good info about edges than any source I've ever seen. It is open minded and talks about the edge not just about the last brand of whatever that they sell, It also talks about the steel and the type of knife to use for the job at hand,

The technique's explained in the book are universal and doesn't count a brand of stone to save your knife.

I would highly suggest that before you spend money , because all the good systems cost, see if the library has the razor's edge, (it has a picture of a guys shaving with an Ax on the cover)

This is one time where some reading will save you money in the long run, No good edge is ever instant so you will have to weigh time vs. edge

 

[tyler34]

seeing as I sharpen knives as a side business, I think I'm fairly familiar with angles, steel, and all the other juicy bits that you know so much about. I was trying to be helpful to the OP. I used noobs as a general term not specific to anyone. you really read into my post too much.

 

[rhino]

I once saw old man Juranich and his son have a speed shaving competition. They started with beards, dull axes, and their sharpening gear. They then raced to see who could sharpen their axe and then shave their face clean the fastest. The son won that particular race. Lots of blood on their faces, though!

The Spyderco unit is a great product, but it's most useful for knives that already have properly ground edges. Even some higher end knives will sometimes escape the factory or a makers shop where the two beveled sides don't meet at the middle in a sharp edge. It's tough with the Spyderco to remove enough metal to fix that in a reasonable time unless you use the diamond sleeves.

I can't think of the last time I didn't reprofile the edge on a new knife, though. They're almost always too thick for my liking (even Spydercos and new Buck 110s). I must be doing okay, though, because the guys at Ka-Bar complimented me on the edge profile I put on the Becker Necker they tested for me. I usually do sort of a halfway thing between a cantled edge and a convex edge, but I do it with wrist motion and my EZLap diamond rods, not with a slack belt grinder. It works pretty well. I learned how to do it on Victorinox SAKs years ago when I first learned about using microbevels. I was trying to do that, but by accident I found myself doing a weird motion with my wrist and hand that gave me the same effect, but looked kind of like a convex edge. I don't think I invented anything new, but no one taught it to me.