Hunting Newbie Questions

[techres]

Ok, so good friends of my wife who own a farm have cleared my wife's objections about hunting and I hope to get out into the field ASAP. I do have a slew of questions, but these are the most immediate:

1. I will be using a 24" Smoothbore Mossberg with rifled slugs. I cannot find a good source on ballistics and need to know what kind of drop I can expect at 50/75/100 yards if I zero at 25 yards.

2. How inexpensively can a tree stand be procured? Cheap but safe for a big guy (Yeah, I know most hunters are svelt experienced athletes).

3. What is bare minimum knife I will need to field prep the deer?

4. If I am hunting on private land, does the deer need to be taken to check station or something before it is processed?

Thanks!

 

[sp3worker]

Ok, so good friends of my wife who own a farm have cleared my wife's objections about hunting and I hope to get out into the field ASAP. I do have a slew of questions, but these are the most immediate:

1. I will be using a 24" Smoothbore Mossberg with rifled slugs. I cannot find a good source on ballistics and need to know what kind of drop I can expect at 50/75/100 yards if I zero at 25 yards.

2. How inexpensively can a tree stand be procured? Cheap but safe for a big guy (Yeah, I know most hunters are svelt experienced athletes).

3. What is bare minimum knife I will need to field prep the deer?

4. If I am hunting on private land, does the deer need to be taken to check station or something before it is processed?

Thanks!

1. Can't help you much on the drop, I'd bet it's pretty fast though. My 870 with a smoothbore 21" rifle sighted barrel is a 50-75 yd max gun for me.

2. I'd go with a Gorrilla hang on type stand. I use 2 King Kong Lounger XLS's. Find one with the XLS system, it makes it rock solid on the tree. I weigh 240lbs and it holds me great, and I have plenty of room on the platform. If you want a climber, go with a Summit Viper series. Very comfortable and solid. You're looking at $100-$150 for the Gorrilla + a ladder stick ~$50, the Summit climbers are $250-$300.

3. Any SHARP knife with a 3-4" blade will do the job. A hatchet makes things a little easier when splitting the ribcage on a big one or removing the head and legs.

4. Yes, you still need to check it in on private land.

HAVE FUN!

 

[techres]

1. Found the ballistics on the side of the boxes of slugs so that helps.

2. MCSports has some ladder stands that claim 300lbs which is more than enough. $79 on sale. Gonna go halvsies with the land owner.

3. So I don't need one of those nice knives that has the hook blade for "zipping open" the deer? Are they helpful?

4. Ok, thanks.

 

[JBob77]

1. Found the ballistics on the side of the boxes of slugs so that helps.

2. MCSports has some ladder stands that claim 300lbs which is more than enough. $79 on sale. Gonna go halvsies with the land owner.

3. So I don't need one of those nice knives that has the hook blade for "zipping open" the deer? Are they helpful?

4. Ok, thanks.

In Addition, if you could have the ladder stand in place here in the next 2-3 weeks, it will seem less strange to any deer when gun season arrives. Also, make sure you have good shooting lanes around it. Stinks to have a stand up, and not be able to see out of it. Also, ranging some nearby landmarks from said stand will give you a good idea of how far away a deer is, if you don't have a rangefinder.

 

[target64]

2. MCSports has some ladder stands that claim 300lbs which is more than enough. $79 on sale. Gonna go halvsies with the land owner.
You get what you pay for in this area....cheap, usually means noisy,
questionable welds, usually a waste of money. A 200+ lb man falling 12 or more feet is not a good situation.
3. So I don't need one of those nice knives that has the hook blade for "zipping open" the deer? Are they helpful?
I have always used a knife with a "GUT" hook. Seems to work good for me.

4. Ok, thanks.

Also suggest a falll restraint. Just my

 

[redneckmedic]

I would shoot the gun out to ranges you are hunting to get comfortable with the doping.

I would hunt off the ground before getting a ladder stand. Hunting in snow and ice is much different than dry in a stand.

I use a $40 gerber with a gut hook but you can buy a $5 gut hook, and a regular pocket knife to do everything you need for field dressing.

Legally Yes

 

[techres]

I would shoot the gun out to ranges you are hunting to get comfortable with the doping.

I would hunt off the ground before getting a ladder stand. Hunting in snow and ice is much different than dry in a stand.

I use a $40 gerber with a gut hook but you can buy a $5 gut hook, and a regular pocket knife to do everything you need for field dressing.

Legally Yes

The owner is under the impression that a stand creates a safer hunting situation so I think a stand is going to be the price of admission to the land if you know what I mean.

 

[Mrmonte]

I use a Buck 110 folding knife. Its not the cheapest knife but it holds a blade and wont break the bank either. I prefer a folding knife because my butt isnt always in a seat. When im sitting on the ground a fixed blade on my belt seems to get in the way.

If you like hunting from a tree, stands are usually way cheap at the big outdoor superstores after hunting season. Thats a good time to upgrade.

Instead of a hatchet like sp3worker suggested, I use a hacksaw durring butchering for the same things he mentioned(not in the field).


Read the regs if you havent yet and make sure your wearing your orange durring fireams season.

 

[SC_Shooter]

I'm a fan as well of using a saw if you've got one for the rib cage. It just makes for a clean and easy cut.

As far as the stand is concerned, $79 is pretty cheap to get access to dear hunting land. Good deal I say!

You'll definitely appreciate either one of the hooked knives or at minimum a good gut hook. I've cleaned many deer without one, but it's a little wracking to run your fingers along the belly and try to cut in between to keep from slicing open an intestine or stomach. Get a gut hook knife or one of the hooked cleaning knives (the gut hook will be much less expensive).

Also, you can use lopers for ribs and the pelvis if you want. There's probably a pair of those in your garage right now.

 

[Jack Ryan]

Ok, so good friends of my wife who own a farm have cleared my wife's objections about hunting and I hope to get out into the field ASAP. I do have a slew of questions, but these are the most immediate:

1. I will be using a 24" Smoothbore Mossberg with rifled slugs. I cannot find a good source on ballistics and need to know what kind of drop I can expect at 50/75/100 yards if I zero at 25 yards.

0-25, 1-high at 50, 2 low at 75, 12 inches low at 100.

From memory 20 years ago but I bet it's pretty close. Shoot it at 50 and 75, if it's dead on at either one that's good. Kill something with it. If it's just got a bead and no adjustable rifle type sights better stay close, I mean under 50 yards close.

2. How inexpensively can a tree stand be procured? Cheap but safe for a big guy (Yeah, I know most hunters are svelt experienced athletes).

Just buy a used one. I've got a Loggy bayo climbing stand you can have for $150. I'll even let you try it out first and I'll stand there in my yard in the middle of the day teaching you how to use it until you say, "Shut up, I know how to use the frigging thing now." and then take you hunting with it. I'll even set up a target and you can shoot your shot gun from it and see just exactly what you can hit with it.

3. What is bare minimum knife I will need to field prep the deer?

What ever knife you can put a razor edge on, I could gut a deer in the field with a box cutter. Any folding pocket knife I ever owned in my life would be just dandy. Plenty good enough I wouldn't walk back to the truck for the best knife ever made instead of using the one in my pocket.

If you are going to go buy one, get a 4 inch rapala fillet knife and you'll never be sorry.

4. If I am hunting on private land, does the deer need to be taken to check station or something before it is processed?

Yes, it has to be checked at a check station no matter where you kill it. Make sure your tags are on it BEFORE you get there. They are suppose to be put on there as soon as you get to the dead deer.

Thanks!

 

[clfergus]

1. Found the ballistics on the side of the boxes of slugs so that helps.

2. MCSports has some ladder stands that claim 300lbs which is more than enough. $79 on sale. Gonna go halvsies with the land owner.

3. So I don't need one of those nice knives that has the hook blade for "zipping open" the deer? Are they helpful?

4. Ok, thanks.

In terms of your tree stand, my dad lives in Bloomington and picked us up a couple of those big dog tree stands at Mcsports. I think they were the foxhound model..prob the ones your looking at. I am 220lbs and I have to say I have no issues with the stand. It is very sturdy. It comes with the cheap strap full body restraint but it worked well once we figured it out. I will be investing in a vest type next year but it will do for now.

I have yet to field dress a deer but I know a couple of buddies really like that outdoor edge swingblade your talking about. It has the blade/got hook blade in one. If you want to spend 50.00 on one it looks like a good knife. I also know a few guys who use the buck 110 including my dad. I also spot many of the TV show hunters using it. Walmrt carries them for 32.00 which is the best I have seen. Made in the USA.

I bought a gut hook in case i do get a deer this year but thats just because i got one dirt cheap. I watched the Michigan DNR video on field dressing and if your careful you really dont need one. Great video, i suggest watching it on youtube.

 

[csaws]

If I was gonna go with a knife aside from the one I have I would buy the Outdoor Edge Swingblade

I am not a fan of hanging/climbing stands, if it were me I would buy a ladder stand and not a hang on, I got my ladder from a guy here brand new in the box for $100 (it is nearly $300 stand new)

Check it in and save yourself the trouble, your truck, your gun and your gear.

 

[sp3worker]

I'll have to say the opposite of most, I don't like ladder stands. Every one that I've hunted out of has had small platform and/or been wobbly. Good idea for the fall restraint though, no matter what kind of stand you get. I use a couple different Gerber knives, one folder with a gut hook and one fixed blade without a gut hook. I like the fixed blade better. Most important is that it is SHARP! Usually I just use my knife to split the ribcage on a smaller one, but the hatchet works well on the big ones. Tried a saw on my last antelope hunt, I thought it was a pain in the butt compared to my hatchet, especially when removing the legs.

 

[jmiller676]

1. I will be using a 24" Smoothbore Mossberg with rifled slugs. I cannot find a good source on ballistics and need to know what kind of drop I can expect at 50/75/100 yards if I zero at 25 yards.
I use the same but don't know the drop.

2. How inexpensively can a tree stand be procured? Cheap but safe for a big guy (Yeah, I know most hunters are svelt experienced athletes).
You dont need a treestand. Stand on the ground by a big tree or in brush on the edge of a field.

3. What is bare minimum knife I will need to field prep the deer?
Last year I forgot my buck knife and dressed a deer with a pocket knife.

4. If I am hunting on private land, does the deer need to be taken to check station or something before it is processed?
Yes, check it in.


Good luck!

 

[Sailor]

If you have a ladder stand always check that it is attached securely before you climb and always wear a harness and tie on when in any stand.

I hate folders for field dressing. Blood and fat get in the crevices. I prefer an old 3 inch schrade old timer. Carbon steel made in USA before they sold out.

Leave your gun on the ground and raise it with a rope. Never carry it up.

 

[Greg.B]

Yes, it has to be checked at a check station no matter where you kill it. Make sure your tags are on it BEFORE you get there. They are suppose to be put on there as soon as you get to the dead deer.

That actually changed a couple of years ago. The tags are now paper, and do not include the temporary transportation tag. You can print this temp tag out from the DNR website, or there's a copy in the hunting reg book (also available on the website). You're required to mark/notch the tag immediately upon killing the deer, but you no longer have to affix the tag to the deer until right before loading it in a vehicle or leaving it unattended. You can also list the required information on a piece of plain paper in lieu of using the temporary tag.