Hard carbon buildup

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  • gmcttr

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    May 22, 2013
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    Columbus
    I tried kroil and JB . some carbon came off but hard carbon will not move. maybe more brushing.

    I'm wondering where in the barrel you are seeing "hard carbon" and (not intending to be rude) if you know what you are looking at. Can you post up some bore scope photos of the "hard carbon"?

    I have never heard a differentiation between carbon build up and "hard" carbon build up. Is it smooth or checked looking like dried mud?
     

    gmcttr

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    I can't tell if that is build up or the start of fire cracking.

    Use a bronze brush and a carbon remover of your choice and if it is a build up it should come out. If you want to use JB paste, use a Parker Hale type jag with a 2" cotton patch rolled around it.

    I neither of those remove it, I would guess fire cracking. A 22-250 will have a shorter barrel life than other lower pressure rounds. Any Idea on how many rounds have been through that barrel?
     
    Last edited:

    dennadam

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    Mar 10, 2022
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    allen park
    I can't tell if that is build up or the start of fire cracking.

    Use a bronze brush and a carbon remover of your choice and if it is a build up it should come out. If you want to use JB paste, use a Parker Hale type jag with a 2" cotton patch rolled around it.

    I neither of those remove it, I would guess fire cracking. A 22-250 will have a shorter barrel life than other lower pressure rounds. Any Idea on how many rounds have been through that barrel?
    no idea number of rounds. it does looks like some fire cracking in front of the chamber. I may have to rebarrel it. I'll see after I clean up the bore and shoot it. not going to shoot any matches, just tear up some paper. it is a beautiful gun, thumbhole laminated stock.
     

    Mongo59

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    Is it save for a blued barrel? is it similar to JB ( a paste)? do you a brush, nylon or bronze or just patches?

    It is more than safe for the finish, it will remove all the stuff that doesn't belong and not a stitch of the blue. The only barrel I do not use a copper brush on (when it needs cleaned) is a Volquartzen barrel and 1960's production USGI M1 barrels. I don't go at them like basic training with 45min of vigorous brushing and if the round count was low I just push a patch but the patch has Blue Wonder on it when it goes through.

    Think of the barrel like a well seasoned cast iron skillet, threat it the same and it will reward you. Don't put it away wet, don't put it away dirty, keep it dry and clean and it will be ready to serve you best whenever you need it.

    The reason you are having this problem now is because someone did not follow those guidelines...
     

    dennadam

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    allen park
    It is more than safe for the finish, it will remove all the stuff that doesn't belong and not a stitch of the blue. The only barrel I do not use a copper brush on (when it needs cleaned) is a Volquartzen barrel and 1960's production USGI M1 barrels. I don't go at them like basic training with 45min of vigorous brushing and if the round count was low I just push a patch but the patch has Blue Wonder on it when it goes through.

    Think of the barrel like a well seasoned cast iron skillet, threat it the same and it will reward you. Don't put it away wet, don't put it away dirty, keep it dry and clean and it will be ready to serve you best whenever you need it.

    The reason you are having this problem now is because someone did not follow those guidelines...
    I looked into Blue Wonder gun cleaner. I see it has ammonia. I'm not to keen on using ammonia cleaner on my guns, but I may have to on this one. better then rebarreling and cost less
     

    Mongo59

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    It is a clear gel with a mild ammonia odor. It starts clear and turns the color of whatever you are using it to remove, rust, carbon, lead.
     

    Bookmark

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    Feb 22, 2014
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    Gibson County
    I picked up a used howa 1500 - 22-250. scoped the barrel, not too bad. No copper but has some hard carbon buildup. I tried JB, some came off but still alot still there.
    Any suggestions?
    I've had good luck with Orion's Piston Kleen carbon remover. They claim it's safe on all metals but I've only used it on carbon steels, no SS. Plug barrel and let soak 12-24 hrs. Works on carbon deposits on AR bolts as well. About $40/gal IIRC.
     

    DadSmith

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    Oct 21, 2018
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    I've never had that much build up. As someone stated up thread plug the barrel and fill it with solvent overnight or 24 hours specifically for carbon fouling. Then wrap some pure copper chore boy around an old brush and it should clean up.

    1648468888998.png
     

    tackdriver

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    I'm wondering if Simichrome is like JB?
    JB is more like a rubbing compound. Simichrome is more like...Magic!

    Actually, it's more like Mothers, Brasso, Flitz, etc., but undefinably different.

    When I bought my first pistol, a firearms trainer I knew told me the feed ramp needed polished. He told me to use fine sandpaper around a dowel to start with, then use Simichrome (sold at a LGS). The Simichrome worked like nothing I'd ever used before. I used it on my new brides jewelry, my motorcycle, and anything else I could find that "needed polished". I still use it on feed ramps, sears, and so on, because I just cant resist.

    I REALLY wished I would have known about this when I was in the Army. Using it was like Brasso, but less mess and worked far faster and better.

    I've used it on bores, but have no clue how effective it really was beyond polishing. Note: It turns dark whenever I use it, regardless of how clean or bright the object is, so don't keep swabbing until the patch comes out "clean", or you'll be at it forever.
     

    dennadam

    Plinker
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    1   0   0
    Mar 10, 2022
    60
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    allen park
    JB is more like a rubbing compound. Simichrome is more like...Magic!

    Actually, it's more like Mothers, Brasso, Flitz, etc., but undefinably different.

    When I bought my first pistol, a firearms trainer I knew told me the feed ramp needed polished. He told me to use fine sandpaper around a dowel to start with, then use Simichrome (sold at a LGS). The Simichrome worked like nothing I'd ever used before. I used it on my new brides jewelry, my motorcycle, and anything else I could find that "needed polished". I still use it on feed ramps, sears, and so on, because I just cant resist.

    I REALLY wished I would have known about this when I was in the Army. Using it was like Brasso, but less mess and worked far faster and better.

    I've used it on bores, but have no clue how effective it really was beyond polishing. Note: It turns dark whenever I use it, regardless of how clean or bright the object is, so don't keep swabbing until the patch comes out "clean", or you'll be at it forever.
    I do have some Flitz . may try it
     

    BPNovum

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 4, 2013
    34
    6
    Houston Texas USA
    It is more than safe for the finish, it will remove all the stuff that doesn't belong and not a stitch of the blue. The only barrel I do not use a copper brush on (when it needs cleaned) is a Volquartzen barrel and 1960's production USGI M1 barrels. I don't go at them like basic training with 45min of vigorous brushing and if the round count was low I just push a patch but the patch has Blue Wonder on it when it goes through.

    Think of the barrel like a well seasoned cast iron skillet, threat it the same and it will reward you. Don't put it away wet, don't put it away dirty, keep it dry and clean and it will be ready to serve you best whenever you need it.

    The reason you are having this problem now is because someone did not follow those guidelines...
    Thanks, Mongo. The Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner contains less than 3/4ths of one percent ammonia. It is completely safe for any firearm.
     
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