Bino Education

[markholst]

Wife and I are going on an Alaskan cruise in May and going to need some binoculars. Problem is I know absolutely nothing about what to look for in binoculars. Nothing I tell you! Hoping y'all can help a brother out.

This is our first time on a cruise and Alaska, so I have no idea how far away we might need to see something. I do know we want something light and easy to carry and pack. Also don't want to spend a fortune since we obviously dont use them.

I looked at binoculars in Cabelas the past weekend and the price range is $20 - $2000 and ranged in size from hip pocket to need a trailer to carry them. They have specs that mean nothing to me. Might as well be Egytpian hieroglyphics.

Can someone guide me to what I should be looking for? And any other advice on what we should take?

Thanks in advance!

Mark

 

[wcd]

Wife and I are going on an Alaskan cruise in May and going to need some binoculars. Problem is I know absolutely nothing about what to look for in binoculars. Nothing I tell you! Hoping y'all can help a brother out.

This is our first time on a cruise and Alaska, so I have no idea how far away we might need to see something. I do know we want something light and easy to carry and pack. Also don't want to spend a fortune since we obviously dont use them.

I looked at binoculars in Cabelas the past weekend and the price range is $20 - $2000 and ranged in size from hip pocket to need a trailer to carry them. They have specs that mean nothing to me. Might as well be Egytpian hieroglyphics.

Can someone guide me to what I should be looking for? And any other advice on what we should take?

Thanks in advance!

Mark

Perhaps enquire with someone with the cruise line perhaps they may be able to offer some information about typical distances you may see something at and go from there.

seems like the model that does not require it’s own transport vehicle may be your best option.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

What kind of stuff would you use a set of binos for at home once the cruise is over? I know a cruise is a big deal, but don't sink a crap ton a money in a set just for this one experience. Get a set that will also be useful for you once you're back home. It will be a better investment that way. I have the military version of these (pretty much same thing except green) and I really love them. Not too big or bulky, and just enough power to be real useful. Image through them is crystal clear.

Steiner Navigator Pro 7x30 Binoculars​

Amazon product ASIN B00IWZK7TO

 

[42769vette]

For a 1 bino do all, I steer all my customers to a 10x42.

Small enough to pack on your chest
Big enough to see most ranges
Low enough zoom to free hand (no tripod)

The 10x42 binos are the 308 of rifles. Jack of all trades, master of none.

We just released a big refurb shipment of binos on our website that might be worth looking at.

 

[spencer rifle]

7x35
First number is the magnification. 10 is the max you want to go without a tripod, since higher magnification = magnified shaking. 7 or 8 will likely be enough.

Second number is the diameter of the far (objective) lens in mm. Larger lets in more light, but also makes it heavier and bulkier. Near 35 is usually good unless you are in bright light (use smaller) or dim light (use larger).

LOTS of prism styles (porro, roof, etc.), glass types and quality, and various coatings. Like with rifle scopes, everyone has glass and coatings that are the best. Just ask them! Most any modern product will do what you expect, but we have good luck with Vortex, and their warranty is outstanding.

 

[2tonic]

To tack onto the above ^^......
IMHO, the best (read brightest, clearest) results are obtained by making sure the exit pupil size is equivalent to your actual pupil size.
Easy to figure..... The average adult pupil is around 7mm in natural light.
Take the objective lens diameter (in mm) and divide it by the magnification factor (the power). A 7x35 bino will result in a 5mm exit pupil, smaller than your eye. It's similar to looking through a rifle scope from too far away (too much eye relief). A 7x50 bino will give you the optimum exit pupil.
Now here's where quality and style enter the picture. Obviously, a $1,000 10x42 should resolve a clearer image than a $150 7x50, but a $500 7x50 that uses the same construction (prizm style) will give the pricy pair a run for their money
Go look through a few, then I would recommend looking through progressively more expensive 7x50's til you can't see an appreciable improvement and stop there.
Steiner, Zeiss, and Vortex are on the pricy end, but there are outliers to be found.
Among my binos is a pair of Burris that are extremely clear and one of the easiest to focus, and keep in focus, that I've ever owned. They were sub $350.

And make sure you get a pair with a di-opter, a fine focus adjuster on one eyepiece. That allows you to compensate for the differences between your two eyes and makes the focus sharper for anyone who uses them.

If you desire a truly good bino, stay away from the perma-focus style.
JMTC..... and enjoy your trip!

 

[rem788]

We went on an Alaska cruise last summer. This was on a Nat Geo expedition in the southwest islands. Left Juneau and ended in Sitka. We had a pair of Nikon 7 x 35 and 10 x 50 binoculars. We used both. There were times we were looking at something on shore that was 1/2 mile to multiple miles away, used the 10 x 50. Other times we were looking at something closer to the ship, whales and seals usually, used the 7 x 35. I would say we probably used the 7 x 35 more. If you are looking at something relatively close it can be harder to find the object with higher power binoculars. The Nikons were on the lower end of the price scale but worked well for us. Good luck.

 

[markholst]

7x35
First number is the magnification. 10 is the max you want to go without a tripod, since higher magnification = magnified shaking. 7 or 8 will likely be enough.

Second number is the diameter of the far (objective) lens in mm. Larger lets in more light, but also makes it heavier and bulkier. Near 35 is usually good unless you are in bright light (use smaller) or dim light (use larger).

LOTS of prism styles (porro, roof, etc.), glass types and quality, and various coatings. Like with rifle scopes, everyone has glass and coatings that are the best. Just ask them! Most any modern product will do what you expect, but we have good luck with Vortex, and their warranty is outstanding.

Thanks for demystifying the numbers for me! That helps a bunch.

 

[markholst]

To tack onto the above ^^......
IMHO, the best (read brightest, clearest) results are obtained by making sure the exit pupil size is equivalent to your actual pupil size.
Easy to figure..... The average adult pupil is around 7mm in natural light.
Take the objective lens diameter (in mm) and divide it by the magnification factor (the power). A 7x35 bino will result in a 5mm exit pupil, smaller than your eye. It's similar to looking through a rifle scope from too far away (too much eye relief). A 7x50 bino will give you the optimum exit pupil.
Now here's where quality and style enter the picture. Obviously, a $1,000 10x42 should resolve a clearer image than a $150 7x50, but a $500 7x50 that uses the same construction (prizm style) will give the pricy pair a run for their money
Go look through a few, then I would recommend looking through progressively more expensive 7x50's til you can't see an appreciable improvement and stop there.
Steiner, Zeiss, and Vortex are on the pricy end, but there are outliers to be found.
Among my binos is a pair of Burris that are extremely clear and one of the easiest to focus, and keep in focus, that I've ever owned. They were sub $350.

And make sure you get a pair with a di-opter, a fine focus adjuster on one eyepiece. That allows you to compensate for the differences between your two eyes and makes the focus sharper for anyone who uses them.

If you desire a truly good bino, stay away from the perma-focus style.
JMTC..... and enjoy your trip!

Excellent advice!

 

[markholst]

We went on an Alaska cruise last summer. This was on a Nat Geo expedition in the southwest islands. Left Juneau and ended in Sitka. We had a pair of Nikon 7 x 35 and 10 x 50 binoculars. We used both. There were times we were looking at something on shore that was 1/2 mile to multiple miles away, used the 10 x 50. Other times we were looking at something closer to the ship, whales and seals usually, used the 7 x 35. I would say we probably used the 7 x 35 more. If you are looking at something relatively close it can be harder to find the object with higher power binoculars. The Nikons were on the lower end of the price scale but worked well for us. Good luck.

Perfect! We have absolutely no idea what to expect and this helps. A lot!

 

[markholst]

For a 1 bino do all, I steer all my customers to a 10x42.

Small enough to pack on your chest
Big enough to see most ranges
Low enough zoom to free hand (no tripod)

The 10x42 binos are the 308 of rifles. Jack of all trades, master of none.

We just released a big refurb shipment of binos on our website that might be worth looking at.

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll check you out.

 

[L C H]

I am far from an expert on binocular construction and specs, but I do spend 20+ days per year looking through them for the majority of daylight hours - glassing for animals out west.

For your purpose, I would order some Diamondback HD 10x42 that @42769vette linked to in his refurb thread. Both of my daughters have a pair, and I bought a pair for myself for backup or loaners. They are of a much higher quality than the binos that most non-hunters or birders are accustomed to, have a great warranty, and reasonably priced.

My main pair is 10x42 Theron Questa HD, but they've been discontinued. I've tried every which way to justify moving to Swaro, but haven't been able to make the switch yet. I do have some 15x56 Leupolds for use off a tripod, but I wouldn't recommend those for casual use.

I also have an Alaska Guide Creations harness/pouch I carry mine in. I really like keeping them protected and readily accessible, and also having space for other accessories.