458 socom

[boyscout]

I know of a company in Cincinnati, OH that I bought new brass from for my .458. I also bought 45-70 bullets too (.458 dia). My only other source of brass was to buy new ammo from Midwest USA. I am just starting to reload and could use some more input on the .458 SOCOM. I know you have to lube the heck out of them when you resize them. Other than that I am just trying to get set up for making rounds this winter.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I know of a company in Cincinnati, OH that I bought new brass from for my .458. I also bought 45-70 bullets too (.458 dia). My only other source of brass was to buy new ammo from Midwest USA. I am just starting to reload and could use some more input on the .458 SOCOM. I know you have to lube the heck out of them when you resize them. Other than that I am just trying to get set up for making rounds this winter.

try lil gun

 

[boyscout]

Thanks, I already bought a pound at Gander Mountain. From what I heard, the barrel gets very hot after 1 shot. For accuracy the gun needs to cool off before shooting again. My friend who shoots Lil Gun said to start at 27 grns with the 405gr bullet.

 

[IndyGunworks]

when will you get a hot barrel while hunting? any hunting rifle should be shot cold each and every shot.

 

[boyscout]

Thanks for the info. I was talking about shooting at the range. Hunting, well let's put it this way. My rifle is still cold from last week. I saw deer sign, tracks and 4 deer. None close enough to shoot. I had a 300 gr Hornaday HP waiting for one to get close enough, but ran out of daylight. Anybody use a different round? I heard a 405 gr bullet will go right through the deer without transferring all the energy. So which is better for hunting?

 

[IndyGunworks]

i think 405 is overkill. i would say 250 and get as much velocity for a flatter shooting round. dont know many people that shoot whitetail with anything over 300 grains with much of anything. guess shotguns are heavier slugs but they arenot much good past 150. i stick w/ my muzzleloader and can shoot 200 all day long and take deer. 225-250 i could shoot last year, but i didnt put in enough time preseason this year to take those shots

 

[kwatters]

FWIW, a .44 Magnum shooting a 240 gr. Hornady XTP @ 1500 fps will blow through a Whitetail with a double lung shot.

I should add that expansion was excellent. I have pics...

 

[shibumiseeker]

i think 405 is overkill. i would say 250 and get as much velocity for a flatter shooting round. dont know many people that shoot whitetail with anything over 300 grains with much of anything. guess shotguns are heavier slugs but they arenot much good past 150. i stick w/ my muzzleloader and can shoot 200 all day long and take deer. 225-250 i could shoot last year, but i didnt put in enough time preseason this year to take those shots

The longest shot I have taken on my place was 109 yards and that's pushing it. I chose the 405 because a little more weight will get past brush deflection better and because I eventually want to cast my own so lower velocity is better.

 

[boyscout]

I have heard of a 500 and 600 grain bullets. They are subsonic, but isn't that what you were thinking of? I wish my shotgun would shoot 150 yards, its a 1940's model 16 gage, smooth bore auto loader. 50-60 yards maybe. That's why I went to the .458. I would like to get a muzzle loader but , I'm over budget due to my reloading gear.

 

[roberts]

A few comments re: annealing brass. I don'tknow how people are doing it now but I have used a cakepan with about 3/4 inch of water and a propane torch in the past with good results. Stand the cases in their heads in the water, heat the case mouths with a propane torch and tump them over with a stick. Being nonferrous metal the cases will be softened at quinch instead of hardened. Onley takes a couple of seconds each to heatr the case mouths.

Oh! By the way the rifle came in about one hour ago. Now I wait for the brass.

 

[CountryBoy19]

A few comments re: annealing brass. I don'tknow how people are doing it now but I have used a cakepan with about 3/4 inch of water and a propane torch in the past with good results. Stand the cases in their heads in the water, heat the case mouths with a propane torch and tump them over with a stick. Being nonferrous metal the cases will be softened at quinch instead of hardened. Onley takes a couple of seconds each to heatr the case mouths.

Oh! By the way the rifle came in about one hour ago. Now I wait for the brass.

You need to get with the times...
When I was talking about automatice I was talking about this sort of setup.

ETA, whoops, forgot the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaXzARG5Qz0

Mine works very similar, I have about $10 in material in mine, the rest was salvage/scrap material. I won't disclose much about the drive motor because I'm working on patenting it, but I will tell you that a very cheap 12v, 5v, 3v power supply source is an old power supply from a PC.

 

[shibumiseeker]

You need to get with the times...
When I was talking about automatice I was talking about this sort of setup.

What, no automatic case feeder???



I expect that's the next feature for the Dillon 650...

That's pretty cool for a homebrew rig!

 

[CountryBoy19]

What, no automatic case feeder???



I expect that's the next feature for the Dillon 650...

That's pretty cool for a homebrew rig!

Oh, sorry to be misleading, that's not mine. Just giving him an example of what I meant by automatic. Mine is very similar though... the torch-heads are fully adjustable (height, arm length, and pivoting), the only thing that doesn't change is the pivot point and thats not really needed. The case plate also delays, unlike some that just rotate through the flame. I think the thing that is pretty "cool" about my design is that the delay/dwell time is infinitely variable. As it's set up right now I have a delay of anywhere between 1-15 seconds, adjusted with a simple turn of a screwdriver/knob.

Also, this being my first go around, it is very crude looking. If I had to do it again I know of several refinements I would do. The one I have is definitely not one that I would put out on the market, it's too crude, but it does work.

ETA, I'd rep you back, but I need to spread it around a little bit first, I think I'm pretty close to being able to rep you again.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Oh, sorry to be misleading, that's not mine.

You weren't misleading, but if that's anything like what you've built it's still really cool!

I may have to try a side by side run of annealed vs not on some brass, but I've been lazy about it since I've never been real convinced it will extend the life to any major degree. I have no empirical evidence to back this feeling up though, that's just an artifact of the fact that I've gotten way more life out of brass once I started doing life tests than I ever would have expected.

 

[roberts]

It stands to reason that annealing brass should extend brass life as the shooting and resizing causes work hardening which leads to splitting. I have seen pure copper cooking pots made in Santa Clara de Cobre, Mexico. They started with a number of disks of copper stacked, heated them in a charcoal fire and hammered them out in stack like paper cups, all worked at once. They would periodically reheat allow to air cool and then re-hammer till they were drawn to shape and ready to unstack, roll the rims and put on handles and finish.
How about the issue of air cool vs. quinch?
Does the case head get hot in your machine? Hot enough to matter?

 

[IndyGunworks]

It stands to reason that annealing brass should extend brass life as the shooting and resizing causes work hardening which leads to splitting. I have seen pure copper cooking pots made in Santa Clara de Cobre, Mexico. They started with a number of disks of copper stacked, heated them in a charcoal fire and hammered them out in stack like paper cups, all worked at once. They would periodically reheat allow to air cool and then re-hammer till they were drawn to shape and ready to unstack, roll the rims and put on handles and finish.
How about the issue of air cool vs. quinch?
Does the case head get hot in your machine? Hot enough to matter?

Might start a new thread about that, it deserves its own merrit and i will comment there. i think this thread should be left dedicated to the .458 socom

 

[shibumiseeker]

Might start a new thread about that, it deserves its own merrit and i will comment there. i think this thread should be left dedicated to the .458 socom

Done:
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo..._annealing_extend_life_or_no.html#post1488232

 

[djl02]

I bought the ammo to get the brass. Got some of the 350gr from Midway at $41 a box. Given how low pressure the round is and the case profile, I would not be surprised to get 10+ loadings out of them unless you are loading really hot.

I'm running the 405s too, and just got in today some cast 405s to play with as well. The .458 may just push me into casting my own boolits.

Reviving this old thread. Did you ever get into casting your own? If so where did you get your supplies?

 

[CountryBoy19]

Reviving this old thread. Did you ever get into casting your own? If so where did you get your supplies?

I can't say that he is casting .458 ammo for sure but I know he is casting so it may be that he is set up for .458 casting as well.

What "supplies" are you needing? Molds? Lead?

Lead is getting harder to find nowadays. Your best bet is to find a tire-shop that will give or sell you some old wheel-weights.