DIY Hobby Gunsmithing: 12ga. Pump Shotgun Refinements (pic heavy)

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  • backfire

    Shooter
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    Like the two other DIY Hobby Gunsmithing threads I've started, (The Taurus TCP-738 .380 "Fluff-n-Buff" and the Taurus M-622 .357 Mag. Revolver "Trigger Job") this info is presented to assist those interested in working on their own 12ga. shotgun to make the gun's action operate smoother (especially w/ the Rem. 870 Express) and making the gun more fun to shoot. Plus, since the details of this tear-down go MUCH deeper than the average gun cleaning instructions everyone is already familiar with, the average shotgun owner will have a greater detailed knowledge of how their gun works, how to repair it if needed and how to make it function as smooth as glass.


    As always....the proverbial CYA Caveat Primer:


    As a gun owner, recreational shooter and shooting sports enthusiast, I enjoy doing just about anything shooting-related with friends or with family. I can’t imagine anything more productive, educational and rewarding than teaching someone else how to properly handle a firearm for their own enjoyment or protection, including how to service the gun they may ultimately own for themselves.

    The catch for most folks (especially me) is that we’re not all gunsmiths to know everything there is to know about the mechanical aspects of a gun, yet we may need or want to modify our guns to do whatever we want, for the purpose we want- without having to spend the coin or time to have our guns serviced by a professional gunsmith. Translation- I like to tackle the minor stuff myself. :)

    That said, I’m certainly NOT minimizing the expertise and abilities of a Professional Gunsmith in their field, nor the costs they charge, because in all likelihood, they are typically very good at what they do, they often charge prices that are commiserate with the services they offer and sometimes- a Pro Gunsmith is just what a guy really needs to get the job done right on their gun. In other words, I respect them greatly and wish I knew half of what they have forgotten!

    As a DIY’er, *I LOVE* to take on a task or challenge that I know nothing about, because the research needed to get to the point of actually doing the work is half the fun, where after I’m done, I’m wiser about the subject than before I started- whether the project went good or bad.

    I’m thankful God blessed me with a good mechanical aptitude, a garage full of professional tools and I’m proficient in using them. I’m a mechanical engineer by profession and perform basic manual machining/MIG-TIG welding operations for myself. I’ve done a LOT of stuff in my 40 years, so I guess I’m kind of a “jackazz of all trades”. :laugh:

    However, I’m probably just like most anyone else who owns guns; I certainly don’t know everything about even the guns I have, much less on to service them mechanically, so if the work they need is something I think I can handle, I’ll try to do it myself- if for nothing else but to learn how my stuff works.

    I’d bet that most folks’ who can field strip a gun or reload their own ammo can most likely do the minor stuff the pros do, we just need a little guidance on how to do the job and use common sense in doing so. In other words, if you’re good with your hands, you can likely become a proficient DIY’er gunsmith for your own stuff.

    As a caveat- I’m no gun expert and I’m not a Gunsmith. The improvements or upgrades I do to my guns, I do so with full knowledge that I might muck something up, making the thing unusable, so I never do anything I’m not comfortable with or don’t have the tools to do them. Heck, the real pro’s may not even call what I’m doing “gunsmithing”, but whatever you want to call it, the mods DO make the gun more reliable, perform better and shoot more accurately, which is what my intended goals are.

    Everyone’s ability is different and if the mods you see me post here isn’t what YOU feel comfortable with, than by all means DON’T DO IT! However, if you’d like to take the job on yourself, I can tell you that it’s very rewarding in the end to know you’ve done the work yourself, where the gun now means more than ever before, because a part of you is now in it. Plus, it’s just a boat-load lot of fun!!

    Please feel free to ask questions & leave comments, as there are some extremely knowledgeable people on here who will likely be happy to help answer questions and/or correct me if I error.

    I hope you find this thread informative & helpful. It’s been fun putting it together. :) :patriot:


    Pics of disassembly to follow. :) :ar15:
     

    backfire

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    The gun I'm using for this upgrade sequence is my personal home defense shotgun we keep in the house, as it's only use is for that purpose alone. It's a Norinco Hawk HP9-1 12ga. pump shotgun equipped w/ a 28" vent rib Modified-Choke barrel and 7 +1 shotshell capacity from the manufacturer. (chambered for 2 3/4" to 3" mag.)

    In other words, it's a pretty good Chinese clone of the Remington 870 Express 12ga. pump shotgun that their military uses (the HP9-1 model) over there to this day as I understand. From what I've found and experienced for myself, "most" of the factory Remmy 870 parts and accessories (except for the barrels) will fit this thing, so getting stuff for it was pretty easy.

    The gun has always went "bang" pretty decent since I've had it (about 6 or 7 years now) but the action has always felt like there was gravel in it, it was clunky and you had to really slam the rack backward with extra force to get the spent shell to eject properly so the new one could feed in. Obviously something is amiss in this thing (outside of it being filthy inside) and if my wife and I was going to use this gun for home protection, it **HAD** to work right, load right and shot right...EVERYTIME!

    Here is the gun box-stock from the manufacturer.
    shotgun1001.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Here is the same gun fitted w/ a 19", Open-Choke vent rib barrel that is better suited to close quarter, in-home protection use. Now, it's nearly at a 50-50 weight balance, which makes it perfect to "sweep and hold".

    shotgun1003.jpg


    shotgun1002.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Disassembly of the barrel, the magazine guts, the forearm & rails, the breech bolt assy. and the slide assy. The details of doing this are all over the internet in text and videos, (including Remington's Website) so I won't go into it further here.

    shotgun1004.jpg


    shotgun1005.jpg
     

    backfire

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    I also removed the fore-arm timber; not because I needed to, but because I wanted to, since I'd never done it before and I wanted to see how it was held on there. There is a small, round, slotted for-end tube nut on that screws onto the for-end tube assy., for which you'll need to buy a special wrench to use so you don't damage the metal or wooden parts.

    I got mine from here~
    PUMP SHOTGUN ACTION TUBE NUT WRENCH - Brownells

    I'm glad I did remove it though, because I found the underside of the fore-arm to have a crack along 30% of it's length! This is why I take my stuff apart more like I do, just so "I know" what's going on with my guns... That would suck if you were to grab that thing to rack the slide, only to have it splinter off in your hand when you need it most!! :nailbite:

    Needless to say, I've odered a new one...

    shotgun1006.jpg


    shotgun1007.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Close-up of the breech bolt assy. from the top and bottom sides, showing the locking block assy. and the firing pin & spring. As you can see, there are burrs all over everything and numorous areas on these parts that have metal-to-metal contact as the action slides back/forth. It seems logical to me that deburring/polishing this stuff will clean up the "gravel", "notchy" feeling this action has always had since day-one.

    Interestingly enough... I did find that these very same parts that are factory equipped in my Remmy 870 Wingmaster are *ALL* polished right from the manufacturer, which explains why the Wingy's action feels so sexy-smooth compared to this rock-crusher thing... Those factory refinements of build quality between the Express and the Wingy must be what makes up part of the price differences between them..

    shotgun1011.jpg


    shotgun1012.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Same situation here with the slide, as with the previously described breech bolt assy.- heavy wear marks on everything, dirty, full of sharp edges/burrs.....all contributing to the crappy feel of the action.

    shotgun1008.jpg


    shotgun1009.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Now on to disassembly of the breech bolt/lock assembly. Since I intend on deburring and polishing all these parts up, I decided to give some special attention to this assembly by taking it completely down to the basic parts. Plus, I was just damn curious to see how this thing went together. :D

    To remove the locking block assy. from the bolt, you must first remove the firing pin from the bolt. Simply drive out the firing pin retainer dowel from the bolt just enough to allow the firing pin to pop out backward. Then, remove the firing pin spring, then the firing pin itself, then the locking block assy.

    shotgun1013.jpg



    shotgun1014.jpg


    shotgun1015.jpg


    shotgun1016.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Thanks! :)

    Now on to the removel of the rear recoil pad and stock. The recoil pad is held on by two small Phillips-Head screws that screw directly into the wodden stock, so they come out easily.

    You'll see a small recessed hole/well that travels up the stock assy. that contains the straight-head, long screw, which secures the stock to the received assy. Use a big, long screwdriver to get to it, as it comes out easily also. When you're done, it should look like this....

    shotgun1017.jpg



    shotgun1019.jpg



    shotgun1021.jpg



    shotgun1022.jpg
     

    backfire

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    shotgun1023.jpg
    Next, you'll want to remove the Receiver Stud and the Rear Stock Bearing Plate from the receiver assembly itself. Mine was loose, which explains the loose rear stock my gun had...

    shotgun1024.jpg


    shotgun1026.jpg
     

    backfire

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    Next is removal of the trigger assembly from the receiver assy. itself. The trigger assy. is held in by two snap-ring secured steel dowel pins that are easily driven out with a small brass straight punch and a soft faced hammer. Once these are out, the trigger assy. falls right out easily.

    *Note: Since the trigger assembly for most shotguns are very robust and not likely prone to failure or malfunction, I suggest that the average guy not take this thing apart any further than what you see in these two photos; but rather clean it real good, oil it up and re-install it. No-muss, no-fuss.

    Being the inquisitive bug I am, I'm going to go ahead and diassemble the trigger assy. of my gun so I can REALLY get in there to clean it and lube it up. Mostly though, I just want to see how this silly thing works... :D I post pictures of this later on for those that are stubborn enough like me to take it apart anyway, even though it's probably not needed. :):


    shotgun1025.jpg


    shotgun1028.jpg
     

    backfire

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    This picture is of the left or right shell latch. (they are nearly the same design between them) Both of these could use some polishing attention, as they too are full of burrs, scratches and knicks. They need to be smoothed out. I won't be taking these out of the receiver though, as they are "staked-in" the receiver frame from the factory, so obviously that's a no-no.

    shotgun1027.jpg
     
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    backfire

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    Well, "That's All Folks'! A fully gutted 12ga. shotgun that's hopefully going to peform like a new animal when I'm through with it. If the action finishes out to be even half the smoothness of my 870 Wingy, than I'll have considered the project a success! ANYTHING is better then what it is now...

    I'll post up pictures later on the trigger mechanism dis-assembly.

    Hope this was useful to everyone interested. :patriot:

    shotgun1029.jpg
     
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    BoomstickBuff

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    Well, "That's It Folks'! A fully gutted 12ga. shotgun that's hopefully going to peform like a new animal when I'm through with it. If the action finishes out to be even half the smoothness of my 870 Wingy, than I'll have considered the project as a success! ANYTHING is better whan what it is now...

    I'll post up pictures later on the trigger mechanism disassembly.

    Hope this was useful to everyone interested. :patriot:

    This is great! Thanks for taking the time to put this together, take the pictures, post, etc. Great learning opportunity for many and a good refresher for the rest. :+1:
     

    Zoub

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    Close-up of the breech bolt assy.

    Interestingly enough... I did find that these very same parts that are factory equipped in my Remmy 870 Wingmaster are *ALL* polished right from the manufacturer, which explains why the Wingy's action feels so sexy-smooth compared to this rock-crusher thing...
    Pay close attention to where the locking block locks into the barrel hood. Those two surfaces benefit from being polished BUT DO NOT round the bottom edge in the barrel hood. It should remain a crisp, sharp 90 degrees.

    This is where even Remington Express models hang up. As the locking bolt slides off that surface. If you round that edge, your gun may fail to lock up but polishing it and the chamber are the top two things to do.
     
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