What's the best method for surface rust?

[indyjohn]

Updated: What's the best method for surface rust?

Took the girl out & got a 100 yd zero on her. First shot was on paper 6 minutes right. Walked it in with no change in elevation -- Those guys back in the day knew what they were doing... That was all done with M2 Ball LC milsurp. This is 5 rounds I built for this gun, they are long but this group is good enough for LR fun next year at Atterbury.

My M1903 came home from JM Gunsmithing today. Turned out really nice. All I ever did with the Lyman was a good cleaning and light oil. I look forward to getting a zero on this old girl.

I recently won this old piece from a Numrich auction, and I intend to install it on my M1903. As you can see it has a fair amount of surface rust.

What is your opinion on the best way to remediate the rust spots? The rifle it is to be mounted on is in VG shape but since the receiver is 86 years old, I think a reblueing would look odd.

What say you INGO?

 

[red_zr24x4]

Lots of rem-oil and a copper chore boy is one method I've heard, also heard you could do it with a penny.

 

[17 squirrel]

Hopped used to sell a stainless steel pad that came with a bottle of oil, made just to remove rust. The stainless choreboys and light oil will do the same thing. They will not damage the existing blue at all. After a scrub the rust will be shiny bare metal.

 

[indyjohn]

Hopped used to sell a stainless steel pad that came with a bottle of oil, made just to remove rust. The stainless choreboys and light oil will do the same thing. They will not damage the existing blue at all. After a scrub the rust will be shiny bare metal.

Ok, follow up question. What to do with the shiny bare metal spot(s)??

 

[churchmouse]

Ok, follow up question. What to do with the shiny bare metal spot(s)??

Nothing you can do.

 

[17 squirrel]

Ok, follow up question. What to do with the shiny bare metal spot(s)??

Keep them oiled, just like the other white metal on the sights.

 

[indyjohn]

Nothing you can do.

No bueno?

 

[churchmouse]

No bueno?

I have seen some repairs done on barrels etc. with very mixed results.
I am not sure it would look good. A total re-blueing would be my thoughts but I am no coating expert.

 

[OutdoorDad]

Do you want to make it look like NOS? Or consistent with your rifle and it's wear?


What does the finish look like on your rifle? Cause I have three rifles in my basement that would be perfectly happy with that in its current condition. (well, maybe take a little of the rust off)

 

[red_zr24x4]

No bueno?

I've heard that's hit or miss, if the spots are small enough, that might work. Make sure all the oil is removed, part is clean and dry.

 

[indyjohn]

I have seen some repairs done on barrels etc. with very mixed results.
I am not sure it would look good. A total re-blueing would be my thoughts but I am no coating expert.

Do you want to make it look like NOS? Or consistent with your rifle and it's wear?

What does the finish look like on your rifle? Cause I have three rifles in my basement that would be perfectly happy with that in its current condition. (well, maybe take a little of the rust off)

I want it to be consistent with the rifle, which is in remarkable shape considering its age.

I've heard that's hit or miss, if the spots are small enough, that might work. Make sure all the oil is removed, part is clean and dry.

I think I need to consult with the gunsmith that is installing it. View Profile: jmgunsmithing - INGunOwners

 

[churchmouse]

I want it to be consistent with the rifle, which is in remarkable shape considering its age.



I think I need to consult with the gunsmith that is installing it. View Profile: jmgunsmithing - INGunOwners

Good call

 

[bwframe]

Could you put that part in the vibratory case cleaner?

 

[indyjohn]

Could you put that part in the vibratory case cleaner?

I don't know b-dub, I think I would want to disassemble it and tumble just the parts needing attention. But I'm not sure if they're too heavy to circulate like brass.

 

[M67]

Ultrasonic cleaner with no heat. Or hose it down in Thrust or another penetrating oil for a couple days. 0000 steel wool or brass wool would be gentle on it and remove the surface spots.

As for bluing, I've had more luck with the G96 liquid blue than the Birchwood Casey

G96 Products Inc. ? Gun Lubricants & Cleaning Products for Firearms ? Gun Blue Liquid

 

[natdscott]

Do NOT vibratory clean that sight.

Tolerances within those dovetails are absolutely critical to maintaining the hopefully tight adjustment that sight has, so you don't want to go enlarging them any further than they already had to be. The dovetail sights, RPA and Zelenak included, were never able to be reduced to as little backlash as more modern twin-pillar sights like a Phoenix or Warner or Centra, not because the threads couldn't be made that way, but simply because you have to be able to actually MOVE the sight by hand without lubrication in the dovetail. Now the twin pillar have their own problems, but clicking true is not one.

For sight work like this, it can't be done haphazard-like. It's not easily replaceable, and it hopefully is still pretty tight in the groove. Pair the two, and...

If it were me, I'd do the cleanup of the sight myself. I'd start with naval jelly to remove all the old bluing and get the rust from the pits; do NOT leave the naval jelly on the sight for a lengthy period, or it will make the pits worse (phosphoric acid). As the corrosion is almost all on flat surfaces, I would then proceed slowly by HAND with oil on high grade cutting paper laminated to a sheet of glass. Start HIGHER than you think you need...you're probably going to have to accept some pits, but if you start at 220 grit, by the time you get it all polished out, you may damage the sight with so much metal removal.

We are trying to maintain the sharp corners and parallel flats of the sight, so I would not use wire abrasives, polishing wheels, buffers, etc. . If the rust can be gotten out of the pits, the naval jelly on a tiny brush will do it. Once you have it as cleaned up as it can get (probably 320 grit on that sight would have been original, but you probably won't get ALL the pits out), the you run the thing through the ultrasonic with plain soap to clean it up and remove the oily grit from sanding, then immediately dip the parts in rust preventative oil until it can get to somebody with good bluing equipment.

But if you trust your smith to know what to do, and what NOT to do with something like this, then roll on.

-Nate

 

[natdscott]

Oh yeah: don't use any copper or bronze wool, pennies, etc. At least, not if you intend to do a reblue/restore on the sight.

They will help remove some of the loose rust, but not do much for anything that is stuck down or in pits. Copper/bronze are soft, sure, so they won't damage the steel...but that's a double edged sword. Because of their cuddly nature, they also get copper all over every bit of steel they touch, so then you have traded 50% of one problem for only the cost of 100% of another.

-Nate

 

[indyjohn]

Thanks for all the input. I don't have the sight in hand yet, so the course of action is TBD.

I'm pretty stoked about this little gizmo. It's the 'Long Slide' version that provides elevation out to 1,000 yds. Groups are a whole 'nuther story but getting there is the first step!

 

[17 squirrel]

If I were to refinish that sight, I would pack it up and send it to Doug Turnbull's Shop. And have him blue it old school or Color Case harden it.

 

[natdscott]

...elevation out to 1,000 yds. Groups are a whole 'nuther story but getting there is the first step!

Hehehe! Tell me about it, brother. You'll get there with her, no doubt about that.

...have him blue it old school or Color Case harden it.

Oooh, now here's a man that can spend another man's money!

Maybe some nitre blued screws..

-Nate